I am getting this alarm, and im curious as to what options I should get on it .... I have a huge stereo setup going in this Sat, and I dont want others to have it....

 

Umm...autostart, roll down windows and sunroof, auto-open trunk, what the heck were u expecting? If they can have the car auto-valet itself, that would be pretty tight also

Make sure they put a lot of shock sensors in good places of the car like windows and trunk and hood and stuff. Gotta keep HIDs and whatnot safe also.

 

I want option

 

haha, if that was the case you'd have people breaking in to your car all the time, just to steal the alarm! hahaha

 

What alarm is this again Id just get the remote start, and the page crap so when you cant hear the alarm is sends you a page lettin you know some1 is jackin with your ride. The auto start will usually not work with a max due to that start kill chip in the key, but I belive if you stick the valet key up somewere up in the dash close enough to the ignition its self it should work just fine. Ive seen the guys at a stereo shop that used to be next door to me do this and they should have no problems pulling it off.

 

I just dont want some pecker jackin my shiznit !

 

Lucky for me 95% of the time my car is either at work in plain view or in my garage. Never do I park outside, when ever I go to the movies or something that the only time Im away from the car. Hell I have to upgrade my alarm too

 

Well, my car is usually in plane view of my Desert Eagle....from my window.. I would really hate to turn a **** into Swiss Cheese over some clear markers.... I just want peace of mind... No one ****** with the Max !

 

Just get the alarm with the page and remote start. Ive seen the alpine 1 be4 that had so much crap on it that it was difficult to arm/disarm the car. You dont need weather and sports update and junk like that on an alarm IMO. All I want is a remote start and the page and its all good

 

Yup.. I had all kinds of fancy crap on my Stangs alarm...

 

-remote start comes with it

-2 window modules. it's come to good use especially when i leave my windows down or if i'm too lazy and i know it's too hot outside. fyi, for the windows to work, there is a default level and then there is a "stronger" setting, i think like +1. use that setting or the windows won't work. they'll only go down 1 inch and stop. ALSO, another FYI, with the window modules, all windows become one-touch from the drivers side. if you press it all the way (nissan's one-touch) it'll stop moving. to control the window, you tap it, it starts to travel all the way down, tap it again (don't press all the way) and it'll stop. for the front 2 windows, you have to tap into each door. for the back windows, you can find the wires on each kickpanel, which will work, but will only make the windows one-touch using the front driver control switch. if you want the rear passengers to have one-touch on their windows, you have to tap into each door, just like the front.

-if you can get the sunroof to open and close, you'll be the first ever. dont' believe it's ever been done, nor is it recommended. our sunroofs are voltage regulated, so the general recommendation is to get the lower model, the 1 way window module, and use it to close the sunroof. but again, that hasnt' been done. i've been messing around with it and when i get the chance i'll do it, IF i can do it. i already know how to get the window to completely open with the alarm, now i just need to figure out how to do the reverse (easier said than done) if you figure it out, even better for me. and let me know.

-now as far as setting up the correct options on the alarm, in remote start mode, don't ahve lights blinking, i think it stands out too much. keep it constant (it's all int he manual on how to change settings. another option, passive arming. this means that after 30 seconds the car will arm. i have it set at passive, but passive locking i set as off. this means that after 30 seconds, the car will arm, the windows will roll up, but the doors will not lock. reason being is this....the 790 comes with only ONE remote. it would suck if you left the keys in the car (let's say filling up on gas. i say this cause i did it myself on my Viper550) and everything armed and you are SOL. with my 550 though, i had 2 remotes and i was only a few blocks from my house, so i had to go home and get the other remote. remember, windows roll up automatically, so you need to get used to having the keys in your hand. another situation, you remote start, you get in, you forget something, you go back inside, but leave the keys just chillin in the chair. the car will arm, lock up, and windows will roll up. NOT GOOD. so yeah, it will arm, just won't lock. i prefer this method.
i don't believe there are any other special features that you NEED NEED NEED. some horns tapped into the alarm may help cause that siren is WEAK.

ok, i wrote a lot. good luck with the install. let me know if you have any questions, i've completely installed and deinstalled and reinstalled my alarm a few times, so i know a few things here and there.

 

I got mines with 3 shock sensors, a proximity sensor, and a backup-battery w/siren

 

mmmmmm...desert eagle.....

sick gun bro....got pix for me??

 

Polo that is some good info man, thanx. Also one other thing caught my eye in your sig...220A alternator? Were can I get my hands on one? I dont feel like throwing in another battery in my car, a 1.0 fared cap or two is fine but a whole battery is a bit much IMO.

 

i'll tell you right now, the 220A is a completely custom install. it doesnt' bolt on. it's too large to fit in the stock location, so the place that is doing, and has done it before, mounts it with brackets and etc... but it's guaranteeed and they've been doing this for 20 years now. the job includes a 220A delco shell alternator, with all parts inside completely made from scratch. no rebuilds at all. keep in mind rebuilds suck because they use the same diodes, which are only made to handle whatever stock amperage is.they will overheat and die quickly. this 220A will be designed to handle this amperage. also a smaller pulley is put on this shell, so a new belt will have to be placed.
i'm a bit scared actually to do this. i mean it all sounds perfect and everything, but the idea of gettin this put just freaks me out, new belt, mounting, etc... they guarantee everything but you always have that doubt in the back of yoru head. one thing i did hear from the audio forum is that with such a high output alternator, teh car will idle very rough and may shut off. they say it's hard for the car to turn over such a strong alternator and keep it powered. they never explained why, so i'm curious to know the real deal behind that.
next thing, before we go into upgrading alternators, let's discuss your power. hav eyou upgraded all yoru wires, and by that i mean battery to frame ground, alternator to battery (should be whatever thickness your battery amp wire is) and any other ground wires. if you have 0 or 4awg from your batter to your setup, what good is that if the alt-to-battery is 8awg. that means your only really powering 8awg worth. it should be a straight flow from the alt to the battery to the amps. we can continue discussing this in PM or we can highjack this thread...make your move cowboy

 

all that work just to keep a nice crisp system in working order.... is it all worth the trouble messing with a new car, possibly nuking your warranty....

 

Ill send you a PM later on BTW I work at a shop and my father has been doin auto electric for over 25yrs so I dont think riggin one up is gonna be a problem.

 

Acutually its not really worth it, Ill explain what they meant about the rough idle. Its that the motor is gonna be stressed more by turning such a strong alternator, in doing so rpms are gonna drop but i dont know how much causing a slightly rougher idle. If its too strong the engine MIGHT stall out if it does not have enough power to turn at idle. I dont think that will be a big problem but I think getting another battery would be a better way out to be honest. Like NT2SHBBY said, warranty and problems in the future might occur. There really is do diff for the power, the weight of another batter will probably cause less stress then a 220A alternator so you might actually lose more power overall with the 220a then to deal with another 50lbs or so. Not that I think about it, the extra battery would be alot simpler. I wont hi-jack the thread no more, ill pm you later on.

 

How much are you paying for it kloogy?