Ok so i ran my 4 gauge power wire from the batt. to the trunk. Next on the list is a way to get RCA outputs but need a little help between the PAC OEM or a inline converter. What are the pros/cons for the two?

From searching and using the "search", i found:

-the the PAC has a remote turn on (but there is a remote turn on my bose amp that i can spice)

=with the pac you must take apart dash and run rca's

-PAC cost $60 from http://www.affsave.com/pac5.htm anywhere cheaper?

-inline converters splice into wires right into trunk no need to take apart the dash

-inline converters are cheap $20

I've been thinking to myself, isnt the PAC aoem-nis2 doing the same thing as an inline con., but that it plugs inline with the nissan harness as opposed to splicing?

Has anyone actually blown the bose head unit from using either?

sorry for long post
ed

 

Try doing a search in the Audio forum for more info. From what I have read and experience, the AOEM-NIS2 is going to give you a cleaner signal. The primary reason for that is it attaches prior to the Bose Amp. Supposedly the Bose Amp crosses over the isgnal and takes some of the Bass out of the rear speakers. Therefore, you will not get as full a range of frequency. Also, according to Studman, there have been reports of the line out converters causing the bose amp to blow because of the extra current that it draws. Either solution will work, but I liked the sound from the AOEM-NIS2 better than the SNI-35.

 

I used a line output converter at first, thinking it would do just as well....it DOESN'T.

Don't make the mistake many of have made by trying to go cheaper - in the long run you'll just end up spending more because you bought two different pieces of equipment when in the beginning you could have just bought one.

I don't recommend always spending the most $ on something, but this is something that you should go ahead and lay out the money for - because it's worth it.

The LOC gives you a signal, but it's nowhere near as clear, the output is pathetic (have to crank the volume & gain to hear anything decent), plus you don't hear all the music you should because you're tapping the signal after the amp (crossed-over already - as previously mentioned).

 

I thought people were splicing before the amp. Doesn't the aoem-nis2 draw current from the speakers too!

I just had a thought since the aoem connects to a power wire via the harness it powers up not only from the speaker wire, unlike the hi line converters which only connect to the speaker wires.

 

No, THe AOEM-NIS2 does not draw power from the speakers. It taps in prior to the Bose Amp before the signal is Amplified(Distorted in Bose's case). The reason that you need that converter is because the Bose HU puts out a very low voltage signal. The AOEM-NIS 2 is able to boost that signal while not contributing to the distoriton. Plus, for $60 it is a decent deal. Affsave is by far the cheapest place that I have found.