Folks,

I've been scrolling through some posts and become a little curious about sub frame connectors. It seems like they could be a worthwhile purchase, as stages 1 and 2 run $200, and may (or may not) be an alternative for those that enjoy the feel and look of the stock spring/strut setup, however want a little more stability in the corners.

-How many people have had this done? It seems that as members discuss suspension mods, this would come up more often.
-Is there any impact on driveability on a daily commuter, or would the difference be only felt in the turns?
-Who else makes these for the max besides WSP?
-For those that have them, what're the improvements between stock, stage 1, and stage 2?
-How will this affect understeer?
-For those that have them, have you had any problems with them? Any drawbacks?
-From a handling standpoint, would it be more beneficial to do the SFC's or springs/struts. Granted you're comparing a lower center of gravity to a firmer chassis, but humor me.

I'm sure to have more questions, but this should get me started. Thanks.

Eenis

 

I've had sub frame connectors on three of my cars in the past, but not on my Maxima (I'll have them soon) I can tell you from my experience with other cars, (see my sig) that subframe connectors (SFCs) should be a MANDATORY first upgrade for most cars.

They best way to describe the handling difference is "composure." A car with a stiff chassis allows the suspension to do its job without interference and interaction from chassis flex. A car with SFCs also feels more refined, and you won't develop rattles and squeaks over time.

In some cars, it will seem like the suspension is stiffer, but that is because the chassis isn't flexing as much when you run over bumps (and not absorbing the energy).

To answer some of your questions about SFCs in general:
The drivability will be BETTER...because the car will feel more refined and composed, and the suspension can do it's work without interference.

There are no drawbacks, unless you have some dummy that installs them and "tweaks" your chassis, and then your doors won't close. Don't worry, after you cut them off, your doors will close again (I've seen this before). Install the SFCs correctly with the suspension LOADED, and no problems.

I say fix your chassis before you fix your suspension. The weight of SFCs is negligible and won't really affect the center of gravity. I don't know how many people I've told to get SFCs, and they always put it off, because it "adds weight" and "doesn't make it any faster" and they would "rather spend their money on something else first." But let me tell you, EVERYONE I know that has done SFC says "I wish I had done these FIRST!"

I do mods to my car because I expect a car to feel good to drive. Go drive a high end late model Mercedes and a Maxima back to back. You will understand how good a stiff chassis feels.

I bought my Maxima last week and I've put 50 miles on it. The SFC are on their way.

 

I ditto to what he'd (JFM) written. I've driven my friend new Passat V6 & the 325BMW. These are tightly built automobiles and the chassis are very rigid. My Maxima, with the SFC's and all the bracings is as tight, if not better than the 2 cars mentioned above. It's a must mod if someone like the sophisticate and luxury sporty European ride.

 

Don't the WSP SFCs weigh a lot? I'd love to add these but I'm not all about adding so much weight to the car.

 

According to their website, stage 1&2 add about 35 lbs, which is nothing compare to the benefits of a stiff chassis.

FYI: I was contemplating on injecting foam into the 2-stage 1 metal tubings to further stiffen the chassis in the near future. (see the article below)

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...scc_proj300zx/

 

NIIICE.

 

I read the foam filling section on the link that was attached, and the author wrote:
"A stiffer chassis enables the use of stiffer springs and shocks without hurting the ride. This is because a stiff, non-flexing chassis transfers more force into the suspension where it can be dissipated by the springs and shocks instead of transferring the force to the occupants."

At the risk of sounding a little simplistic, does this mean that folks w/ sprints, eibachs, etc., and feel that they have a harsh ride could in essence soften the ride w/ SFC's?

 

VMaximus02, where'd you get your SFCs installed? Who can I trust to install these properly???

 

Forgot to ask.....what are these made of? I checked the WSP site again and it doesn't say. SS or that aluminized something-or-other?

 

Icf, look for performance autoshop in your area that do exhaust work for modified mustang/camaro since they have more experiences with the SFC's.

Eenis, I believe the SFC's members are made of metal tubing.

 

What's the material? Do you know? Bottom line is will they rust through after a good winter w/ the salt from the roads.

 

I am not sure about the material. I guess you can ask Warspeedperformance themselve? I would speculate that the painted coating on the SFC's will resist corrosion. You can always coated them with corrossive resistant spray prior to installation. The Tech who did the installation for me done that after he put everything together.

 

Icf,
The weight is negligible and the car will actually feel LIGHTER. The thing that kills me is that people are worried about adding 30-40 lbs of bracing to their car but they're not afraid to add MUCH more weight in speakers, amps, sub enclosures and heavy wheels (the ultimate blasphemy).

Eenis,
In my experience, adding subframe connectors to a stock suspension car will make it ride STIFFER than stock. However, my '98 Z28 with every chassis and suspension mod available (less rollcage) had a pretty descent ride...actually it rode a little smoother than my either of my S2000s. The Camaro's chassis was also stiffer after the mods (I know, hard to believe, but true).

The material will probably be mild steel. Manufacturers will brag about chromoly, stainless, or any powdercoating, or zinc chromate. I would highly recommend finishing them or having them powder coated prior to installation. Make sure the installer paints his welds also, or do it yourself.

My powder coated and zinc chromate chassis components have never rusted.