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Specs for non-Bose head unit?

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Old Aug 13, 2003 | 07:53 PM
  #1  
96vtmax's Avatar
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Specs for non-Bose head unit?

Going to replace my speakers and add an amp, but would like to keep head unit for now to retain stearing wheel controls, etc... Anyone have any idea on what the specs are for the non-Bose head unit? I am specifically looking for the RMS and max output power. Also, looking at installing componant speakers in the front. Any good or bad stories?
Old Aug 13, 2003 | 10:33 PM
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i have the stock non bose head unit. i think factory specs is 10W max per channel. I just bought a 5 channel amp and hooked up all the speakers and sub to hte amp. sounds real good and clean. I had an alpine head unit but went back to stock for the clean look. i say just buy an amp and new speakers and it should sound better.
Old Aug 13, 2003 | 11:08 PM
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well if you're adding an amp to the factory hu, the power output specs are irrelevant. I just purchased a profile 4 channel today, gonna throw it in next week with 2 solo barics and another 1200w amp...should push hard
Old Aug 14, 2003 | 04:31 AM
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Yeah, I was pretty sure I would need to add an amp. Given the head unit i would expect you are using the speaker level inputs on the amp. Also, can anyone describe their wiring? Did you run cables all the way to the trunk and back, or did you mount the amp somewhere else? Has anyone used two amps? A small one in the trunk for just the rear speakers and a small one up front somewhere? Thanks!
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 11:42 AM
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I installed four fairly efficient Infinity Reference 6.5" without an extra amp and it's plenty loud. Replaced the stock tweeters with Infinity tweeters and added a Basslink a little later. Very happy with the sound.

Just for the record, the speaker wire colors for an '03 are:

RF+ brown RR+ blue
RF- brown/white stripe RR- pink

LF+ blue/white stripe LR+ light green
LF- blue/yellow stripe LR- black/yellow stripe

You can access the rear speaker HU wires inside the driver and passenger kick panels. There's not a lot of wire to work with and you have to unwrap them but I think it's the easiest place to get to them. To power the sub, removing the driver front inner plastic fender exposes a big, soft grommet that you can run a wirh through to the battery. Just check there's enough wire length BEFORE you tie everything down, not like I did.
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 11:57 AM
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I'm putting in references in my ride too. Where'd you mount the tweeters in front? I thought the aftermarkets wouldn't fit in the a-pillar...and I Dont' really feel like drilling a hole in my interior on my own...

Is the stock hu a floating ground or a common ground unit? When I'm using the speaker level inputs I can just cut the stock speaker wires and use those since I'm adding a separate amp for the speakers right?
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 01:37 PM
  #7  
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hey guys, so you are basically telling me if I were to improve my sound quality, i should just change the front and rear speakers, and tweeters, and add an amp. I was just wondering what kind wires do I need. I am trying to add a RF AMP with a Infinity Kappa front and reap speakers. I am still trying to get the infinity tweeters. IS this a good set up? if anyone can give suggestions I am happy to hear it. Im new at this and I need help. thanks
Old Aug 15, 2003 | 02:10 PM
  #8  
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I'm not sure you're asking in the right forum, since your profile says '96.

However, my non-BOSE 2K1 headunit supposedly puts out 120W, but of course that's peak and RMS is half that.
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