Maybe some of you saw whats happening w/my car in one of the other forums but anyway... IMy cars been at Nissan for almost 3 weeks now. Its taken so long because since my car is "modified", I was considered a low priority and my cars been at the bottom of the list of cars to be done. I had to waive responsibilty of that particular Nissan dealership before they would even lay a hand on my car.... anyway. a couple of the mechanics are cool and they said they would work on it for me and keep it locked in the garage at Nissan.
Ever since I tried to wire my Apexi S-Afc into the ECU so I could fine tune my turbo setup, something went wrong with the wiring and now the car wont start... it cranks but wont start. Nissan finally calls me today and tells me both the vehicle immobilizer system is shot and the Nat system that communicates w/the ECU is shot!! The best part is... it will be $950 for a new vehicle immobilizer & nat system plus tax plus labor so I'm probably looking at around $1500 to fix it.
Anyone experience this and know what i should do or wher I can get parts for cheap? Suggestions would be great. I have to decide before the end of the day tomorrow.

Deac

 

Call up DAVEB. His number is in the FAQ.

 

yeah, i would try and get the immobilizer on the side...seriously look at going to a few junkyards. hardcore looking for it bro. after that...if it's only the piece that's damaged, then i'm curious to know how much is involvedin replacing it...remember, they are 100 for the cabin filter replacement, and 296 for a filter cleaning. if you found tha tpiece, i'm sure a shop would take a stab at it, EVEN JEFF might be able to do it. hell, you could prolly do it. whati'm saying is, who knows how big htis immobilizer module and nat system is. does it require you to reset the ecu. all this can be found in the FSM, which is what nissan uses. read up the FSM and i'm sure that can answer all your problems. if you don't have it, i know someone else here would be willing to look up that section and fax/email/whatever it to you. i have a 2k2 fsm and if you need, i'll print up or email you the immobilizer section. figure out what exacts consists of "fixing" it so you can decide if 1500 is worth it.

good luck and let me know man.

 

IF their diagnosis is true you'd need to replace ECU, and immobilizer transmitter module located near key hole. The worst part where you're really screwed is that you'll need all your keys registered again with new ECU. That involves Nissan Consult II device exclusively AFAIK. I wish you ask your question before you left your car there, at least we could do some checks first. I don't think it is option for you now to tow your car to another shop to get parts replaced then tow it back to dealership to register the keys. Parts of the system straight from the manual:

The immobilizer function of the NVIS (NATS) consists of the following:
NVIS (NATS) ignition key
NVIS (NATS) immobilizer control unit (IMMU) located in the ignition key cylinder
Engine control module (ECM)
Security indicator

It also says that:
When NVIS (NATS) detects trouble, the security indicator lamp lights up while ignition key is in the “ON” position.

Was it the case with your car? I understand that anything could happen but it would be reassuring. I just have trouble believing that you connected something really bad on that single wire bus between ECU and IMMU and killed them both at once. They really have only one wire in between. The rest are just usual stuff - ground, ignition, battery etc.

Good luck in any case.

 

I have a spare ECU already but I want to make sure about the vehicle immobilizer system. I did hear that you were supposed to get a check engine light if the vehicle immobilizer system was bad. I never got a check engine light. I'm going ove there now to have them show me the trouble and take it from there... if anything I'll have Dave B send me the parst. Thanx for you guys input. I'll post again when I know whats up...

Deac

 

"Security indicator" means red LED on the clock, not the CEL on the dash, IMHO. At least it is driven by IMMU output as well as smart entrance control unit. NATS related problems do throw special error codes though. They should be able to demonstrate them to you using Consult II device.

 

THis is the first taht i heard of damaging an immobilizer..

Is there a possiblity to disable the whole damn thing?

 

This is exactly the problem... the wiring harness and the wire that supplies power to the ECU is getting NO POWER at all! That wire is part of/attached to the NATS sytem..... I went to Nissan today and they actually showed me what was going on. The Vehicle immobilizer, the NATS system and the ECU are all connected together and feed off each other. Vechicle immobilzer is in the steering column right behind the ignition, and connects to the NATS sytem farther down the steering column and finally the nats connects to the ecu.
For some reason there is no power going from the nats to the ecu so the ecu cant even communnicate w/the consultII computer because the ECU has no power at all! Dont ask me how this happened but I saw it myself.
I called Dave B today and he quoted me a great price on parts I need so... once I recieve them in the mail, we'll take it from there.

Deac

 

As far as I recall there's single wire bus between IMMU and ECU. In idle state (most of the time) it has +Vbatt potential. It is not a power wire but rather signal one. I beleive it is connected to +Vbatt through resistors inside ECU/IMMU. The possible ways it doesn't have that potential are: one of the fuses the ECU/IMMU get powered through is fried or one of the outputs (ECU or IMMU) is shortened to the ground and it holds its potential near the ground. I'd perform following checks before getting into ECU/IMMU replacement: 1. check fuses ECU/IMMU powered through. 2. disconnect single wire bus from IMMU and measure resistance to the ground on both sides with ignition in "OFF" position. The side with low resistance would be most likely at fault. BTW if you'll finally get your ECU/IMMU replaced despite all my efforts will you be willing to part with them for a reasonable price? I need some test bed for science fair project at home. I tried to work with my own but it wasn't very convinient as Max doesn't go for a test bench too well .