I tried this the other day, as it was much talked about in another thread. I'm wondering about how it could hurt the tranny though. The 1-2 shift is extremely hard once the tranny warms up, and I just cant imagine that it's a good thing... I can understand that the full line pressure allows for the tranny to quickly make the gear shift, but the large thud into gear feels like it could be hurting somethin under the hood. Anyone have input to this? I'm planning to splice the wire to the sensor this weekend and install a switch so that I can drive in regular more most of the time, but switch to "quick shift mode" by the flip of a switch. Before doing so though I'd like to get input as to how good/bad this 'mod' is for the engine/transmission.
BTW under medium to hard acceleration, the shifts are AWSOME!! love being able to chirp into 2nd

 

After reading all the recent posts, I also tried this mod.

Yes, I have complained in other posts about the spongy shifts, but I would never subject my tranny to this on a daily(or infrequent) basis. Granted, the instant shifts may reduce your 1/4 time and extend the clutch pack life somewhat, but man!!!! it's just way too harsh. Remember the other internal tranny parts and CV joints that have to endure that punishment.

Then there's the SES light that would NOT go off.... I performed the ECU reset procedure to remove the code.

To each his own I guess, but it's something I will never do again. It would be cool to if someone figures out how to adjust this little thing so the shifts are firmer without slamming into gear and turning on the SES light.

 

I hooked mine up to a WOT switch. Now I get the full pressure only at WOT, without having to flip anything. I've been using this mod (at the track only) for about 3 years now. My trans feels a little weak, but it also has 175k miles on it...

 

It is actually more wear and tear on your tranny to leave it stock (as it slips between the gears for that wonderful luxury feel)...

By increasing the line pressure, you get faster shifts and less slip time between the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. This is actually less wear on the tranny, but maybe more on the motor mounts and diff/CV joints...other related stuff.

 

I think the mounts have to suffer. Cause If you feel it within the cabin so much, imagine right at the source :O

 

Imagine if you had solid motor mounts in place of the stockers! Talk about having a rough ride...

 

As Quicksilver said, the full line pressure is actually better for your tranny. After driving with it for a while I've learned how to make it shift without the hard bang. I love the way my car feels with the sensor unplugged. It makes my car feel like it has so much more usable power at all times and I love not having slow shifts anymore.

 

Anyone who drives the newer model Dodge trucks, this trick also applies to you as well 45RFE and 545RFE trannies are so much better with a similar process done to them. In fact, it shaved .3 seconds off my 1/4 mile run with just that mod alone!

 

I was too chicken to try a WOT shift while it was unhooked. Is the WOT shift a harsh thump like the part-throttle or a strong solid shift? 175K is amazing. I know two third gen owners that had their tranny replaced before 120K. They were both unmodded GXE's though.... if I remember correctly, those trannys were not as strong as the one on the 190 hp engine. I assume all 4th gens have the stronger tranny. Do you get an SES or A/T (OD off) light when your WOT switch bypasses that component?

 

Today I am installing a resistor type of switch which is adjustable that was bought from radio shack. The theory is, if the current resistor is unadjustable at 12.5 ohms I should beable to adjust it with the new switch to whatever I want. For example lets say I adjust it to 6ohms, the car should shift alot faster than stock while getting rid of the banging effect from 1st to 2nd gear that you get with the resistor being unplugged. Its a long shot but I'll let you guys know if it works...

 

Necessity is the mother of all invention...

I hope it works...

 

Hopefully it does work out, and if so, I want to see it at our shop A.S.A.P.

 

I unplugged it and it really didn't shift hard at all 1-2. I know I have just as much power as any other auto and I couldn't even bark 2nd. Weird...

 

Odd that it's not as hard for you. When i tried this, it was pretty much a bang into 2nd. 2-3 was only slightly stiffer.

But the way 1-2 shifted, it felt like something was going to give way if i kept it like that.

 

argh my 2-3 is stronger than 1-2. I cleared the SES light last night maybe I need too try it again.

 

when my tranny was cold (first couple miles) the bang into 2nd wasnt too bad. it gets worse after the fluid heats up and can move faster.

PhxBlue: Very interested to see if that works... from the sounds of your plan, it should. Keep us informed and make sure yuo do a little write up! I'll be next to install such a resistor if it works for you

 

I already did that...a long time ago. There is a lot of current in that circuit. The potentiometer that I used was only rated for .5 watt. It actually caught on fire when I tried to use it. Later, I bought a high-current rated variable resistor. It didnt do much. It either shifted normally or shifted really damn hard. There's no middle ground.

 

seems that there must be some way to vary current as to adjust the firmness...

 

perhaps the pot combined with a small step-up transformer? But where would the voltage needed come from...

 

I have tried a high power variable resistor and a number of fixed resistors at all resistances between 12 and 0 and higher was well. There is no middle ground here guys. I spent 2 days trying to do the same thing, it either full line pressure or normal.

However, if you want to play go ahead just remember I did tell you.

 

Ok guys. It worked and I did find middle ground. The resistor i bought was a 1megohm. I set mine at 200,000 ohms. I get a little jerk from the 1st to 2nd gear shift but it is no where near as bad as with the resistor unplugged. The ride is smooth and the shifts are fast and efficient.
I originally made an example of going from 12.5 to 6 ohms, but that was backwards thinking. you gotta go higher in the ohms to smooth out the shift. I am very pleased with the outcome.

 

Do you still get an SES light?

 

Sweet! When can you schedule me in for an install?

 

Apparently you will get the SES light. I got the light reset at AutoZone i went out drivin and it came back on...

 

What about all the blown trannies a few years ago? When this first came in, a few months later we had lots of posts of dead trannies.

 

Honestly I have no idea. I love having the sensor un-plugged, and it is better for the tranny itself...

 

These are the risks you take with doing odd mods like this. Its a wait and see thing. You are Definately doing it at your own risk!

 

Where was this post?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....1&goto=newpost

 

so has any have switch put on? if so do you have a write up?

 

Just imagine that..

I got it to bark 2nd gear 1 time only... now it wont do it again... Now at WOT I hear a "pop" when it shifts from 1-2nd gear. I still get SES light after I put the plug back in.

DTC Results:

Throttle Position Sensor
Line Pressure S/V

L/Press Sol/Circ [P0745]

IT was cleared again today with our Consult -II


I let my service tech drive my car.. He has a Datsun 710, he's been a tech for 30 years. I trust him with my maxima.. anyhow.. he says the Drop Resistor Mod he knew about and says its too rough for daily driving (he's old ) He says he recommends a VB mod and some level 10 stuff.

He installed my tranny cooler for me along with a trans TEMP gauge.. Its at about 102 degrees, i've seen it at 160, that was when I was hot rodding around and stopped in traffic a while.. My trans cooler is wonderful.. He's told me that over 190 degrees the trans start to suffer. The full line pressure is good for the clutch packs and A/T's uses fluid pressure to hydraulically hold clutches together and apply bands. These bands and clutches are how it selects what gear it is in. If this pressure drops too low, the clutches or bands can slip causing trans failures.. Guess us with the mods get full line pressure all day long. He says the shifts are hard on the mounts and doesnt recommend it, he says I should get my VB modified/strengthened TC.

 

Sounds like some good info 02aMaximaSE. I'll toss in a switch so i can turn on full pressure when necessary, or under WOT like some others. Thanks for the input!!

 

I'm glad I'm not the only one that can't bark 2nd when doing this..

 

I can't either...

 

I also tried the drop resistor mod thing and was not to satisfied with tht hard shift so I reset everything and reconnected the resistor and yet still my SES light was still on. I said oh well my car is due for a oil change and some other maint, (14750 miles) I figure I'll take it to the dealership and get it fixed. Well my car will be in the shopp for a week because of a bad selonoid. The part is on back order. I do not recommed this type of modification to anyone unless your satisfied with tearing up your tranny!!!!!!

 

When you disconnected it, it threw the solenoid code. When you hooked it back up, everything was fine, but the code doesnt erase itself. The dealer read the code and automatically assumed you needed a solenoid.

You are getting ripped off for a solenoid replacement you dont need.

 

just reset the ECU..same thing happened to me, threw the SES code and put everything back and still had the SES on...

 

.....

 

Chaser.....

Its just a stored code, when cleared then it should be fine, the tech's should have cleared it and took it for a test drive that sucks they're going to need your car and go pulling sensors.. hopefully it doesnt lead to "other" problems.

 

Tonight I tried disconnecting the drop resistor and noticed an immediate improvement in shift speed, and it wasn't "harsh" at all. In my opinion, it went from slow and mushy to quick and crisp, which is what I want! Now my question, should I still get the VB mod and cooler?. Also, I did not get the SES light, perhaps this has to happen for a certain lenght of time for the computer to throw the code, and my test drive was only about 10 minutes. If it does throw the code and activate the SES light and I then reset the ECU, will the SES light come on again? Is there a way to fool the computer so that the SES light does not come on?
You guys are a wealth of information, and I know someone has an answer to my questions :-)
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