I take my car in and they tell me my tranny fluid has to be flushed and also I have to change my belts becasue they have cracks in them. They want around 400 bucks to do this, which didn't sound reasonable to me , so im thinking I can save my self a couple of bucks and do it myself. Now here is the question, what exactly does it take to flush out my tranny fluid and put new fluid in, also where can I get the belts from and how hard are they to put on. All help is appriciated.

 

$400 WOW
My guy charged $60 for a flush and fill don't know about the belts, could be labor intensive
Sorry Good luck

 

They quoted me 169 for the flush. Damn Nissan

 

Cost at dealer, automatic transmission flush ~ $100, power steering and alternator belts ~ $125, include parts and labor.

 

there is a sticky for the tranny fluid flush... how many miles do you have? also is this an auto (i didn't see any details on which tranny)? The auto flush is really easy. I did mine at 43000 (when i got the car) and the fluid did not look bad before the flush but looks great now. I purchased 5 quarts of mobil 1 full synth ATF and drained the fluid from the drain plug that is at the bottom of the tranny (very easy to find). I put in 4 quarts, drove the car through the neighborhood, then filled to the correct level (took about 4 and 1/3 quarts total). If you have higher miles (id say 50k+) I would either flush twice or search for the other tricks on flushing more of the fluid. The drain and refill method gets about 1/2 the fluid. Also there is a magnet in the pan that you may want to clean if you havent been keeping up with drain/fill.

Belts- There are 2 of em and they cost about $30 total for both (at least thats what i was quoted at autozone for there best ones). Labor could be a PITA but I imagine jacking the front up and removing the front right tire could help. Just make sure you get the correct tension.

Tranny is super easy (i have done it), belts could be harder (haven't done it yet but did look into it). If you have done a serpentine belt before You shouldn't have a problem.


I am curious on miles and the tranny flush is for the auto...

 

I do have high miles on the car im getting close to 90000 and it is an auto. When I go to autozone what belts should I ask them for? I think im gonna do the flush by myself becasue the way your making it look, its easy. But the belts Im probably going to buy from autozone and have them installed at a local shop. I might be asking you a couple of questions when I actually tackle this mission.

Unclemax those are nowhere near dealer quotes, I would have paid that no problem. By chance can you tell me the dealer that quoted you that price, if you can give me their # that would be cool.

Thanks guys

 

go to http://www.nissanparts.org/ the get the belts... i went to get my drive and the Ac belts much cheaper did it my self then went to get a tranny flush at nissan

 

Blazin 2k Max,

At that high a mileage I would drop the pan and clean it. I did mine the other day and repositioned my B&M tranny cooler. The sludge inside the pan was unbelievable. Don't flush, drop the pan and spend 2hrs with ur baby. My six felt like a new beast after pan drop + mobil syn + B&M 264 cooler.

Just purchase a gasket from Dave B (888-254-6060) and follow the instructions in the howto.

The belts, I dunno cause that tool they use to adjust the tension, is hard to simulate. I leave that one for the experts.

I will try to do a write-up cause the reposition/remount of the tranny cooler came out nice.

you can do the tranny part yourself, no flush drop the pan.
SHIFT_woosh

 

I went to Cornell Nissan in Costa Mesa (CA). $70 to replace both belts because they were replacing the alternator at the same time. Otherwise, it would have been $125. You can do the drain and refill a few times and get most of the old ATF fluid out.

 

You can do this method but it will not do anything about the sludge in the bottom of the pan around the magnets. I'm a bit of a purist and after what I've seen from dropping the pan, I believe the oil will become somewhat contaminated the moment you pour it in on that old sludge.



neodymium magnets on the oil filter, holy metal shavings batman?
SHIFT_woosh

 

I would really appriciate a writeup if you have the time to do it.

 

he wanted $400 bucks, well it's time to look for another mechanic if I were you.....

 

Blazin....if you want help with the ATF flush I can help you out. Also I have quite a bit of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF fluid left over from my last flush when I changed out my VB. It's really easy to do especially with two people. Let me know if you want some help with that and some Mobil 1 Syn ATF fluid for cheap. Just shoot me an e-mail at foodmanry@hotmail.com

The belts I'm not so sure of. I need to change mine as well. I haven't taken the time to look at them. Maxi-Overdose knows how to do them and can give you a short write up if you are interested.

 

Thats cool I appriciate you offering to help me and since you have done it before and still have left over fluid maybe we can work together. I'd kick you down for the fluid and your help. Right now is not good timeing though hopefully sometime next week or the week after that. So let me know when is best for you.

 

WHere is the dip stick? Is it the one to the right of the engine oil dip?
Whats the deal with this sludge and pan removal? DO you have to do these steps?

Roger

 

Is there a filter to be replaced in the tranny?

Most auto tranny fluid I've changed the kit comes with a new gasket and filter.

 

Roger Dipstick on the auto should be near the throttle body area, I havn't seen a Auto in while but should be in that area.

 

Correct, Most of them Do Include Pan Gasket, Filter, Rubber Gromit.

 

While you're going to all the trouble go the extra mile and ad a tranny cooler... it was very easy and will help the tranny life longer.

 

Where would I get it from and how much is it?

 

Hey Blazin,

I'll post that writeup soon, need place to host pics though.


I got the model most ppl here recommended 130-70264 $58 shipped

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...28&prmenbr=361

worth every penny
SHIFT_woosh

 

Well until then, just let me know. My schedule is pretty full during the week starting next week with grad school. But we can figure out a time. I actually just had my belts replaced at Firestone for $120. Not too bad and I didn't feel like messing with it for half a day.

Parts you should get for the fluid change are a new gasket for the pan, and then the 18 or so bolts that go around the pan. They are the 10 MM bolts. Those have thread lock on them from the factory and you really should replace those when you drop the pan. Just go to the local Nissan dealer, and they should have them in stock or get them to you in a day or two. I think the gasket was like $12, and the bolts were another $18 or so.

Let me know if you have any other questions. But just hit me up through e-mail next week when you figure out a day that would work for you.

 

Here you go Blazin 2K, I will post the pics later when I get a chance.

Here's the howto for the auto transmission change plus B&M tranny cooler:

Parts needed:
- 12 qts of mobil synthetic or dexron III oil (Pepboys $70)
- tranny gasket (Dave B p/n 31397-80X01 ~$14)
- 1/2 external, 3/8 internal diameter clear vinyl tubing (home depot $1.98)
- Funnel with nozzle thin enough to fit in the dip stick hole (Strauss $5.00)
- extra 4 ft of tranny line hose (Autozone $1.00/ft)
- 2 extra bolts to mount B&M cooler (Dave B p/n 01456-00691)
- 3, 1 gallon water bottles cut open just near the top
- Brake parts cleaner, the kind that has the no residue evaporation, to dry quicker.
- 2 Aluminum split washers
- 14 mm socket for the tranny bolt
- 10 mm socket for 21 bolts holding the tranny pan
- Pair of pliers


1. Loosen the tranny bolt and let it drain into the 1st 1 gal. bottle. Change to the 2nd bottle. This should fit in 2 bottles, approx 6-8 qts.

2. Skip this if you are not adding a tranny cooler. Carefully undo the plastic bolts that hold the black undercarriage guard on the driver side and the 3 screws (p/n 01456-00691) that hold it in place.

3. Use the 10 mm socket and undo the 21 bolts holding the tranny pan. Be careful lowering it, to avoid spilling the remaining fluid and sludge in the pan.

4. Remove the old gasket completely. Clean the magnets and the pan with the brake parts cleaner and set it in the sun to dry.

5. Insert B&M tranny pics. If you look at the beam just below the AC condenser it has 3 threaded holes. 2 of them will align perfectly after you drill a hole right next to the inner hole on the bottom of the cooler. Pre-fill the cooler and attach the 2, 4 ft hose with the supplied couplings to the top of the cooler and tighten. Bolt the cooler in place with hoses pointing upward.

6. Insert return line pic. Remove the return line by squeezing the butterfly clips with the pliers. Let this finish draining into the 2nd 1 gal. bottle

7. Place new gasket on the pan and moisten the new gasket with the new oil.

8. Remove the washable metal screen attached to the valve body and clean it. I did not do this part, because I couldn't figure how to remove the screen with removing the valve body. One of the bolts had the nut facing downward kept rotating.

9. Replace the pan and torque the 21 bolts in a opposite side, alternating bolt pattern to the proper ft-lb.

10. Insert clear tube pic. Attach clear vinyl tube to the radiator side of the removed return line and place the other end in the 3rd 1 gallon water bottle.

11. Fill the pan with 6 qts of oil via the dipstick hole.

12. Have a friend start the car while you watch for the old fluid remaining in the transmission to pump out into the bottle. Be prepared to stop also if you hear a gurgle sound, which means the tranny pan needs fluid and you have to pour in more oil before continuing, if the old fluid is not completely out. I did not have to add more fluid and did this only for about 3 secs. The fluid pumps out really fast, so pay close attention.

13. Insert hose route pic.Attach the 4ft hose on the left side of the tranny cooler (you facing car) to the radiator side and the other 4ft hose to the return line on the tranny.

14. Fill with another 4 qts and start checking the dipstick, cold side. Start the car and continuously monitor leaks, gurgling sounds and fluid levels. Let the car run for approx 4 minutes to warm the fluid and check the hot side of the stick. Top off as necessary. I only needed 1 more bottle which totaled around 11 qts.

15. Move gears through each position for around 3 seconds each and listen for any weird noises.

go for a nice cruise and be amazed at the smooth shifts. Later when you punch it, the insane rpm rise will surprise you.

100% pure synthetic blood
SHIFT_woosh

 

Got one at autozone for around $40. Get some extra trans oil line because it makes the flush simple. I used a old 5 gallon water jug... stick the line in the jug and flush away.

 

Anyone know the OEM part numbers for the Pan Gasket, Tranny Oil FIlter and Rubber Gromit.

WTF is a GASKET?
WTF is a Gromit?


Roger

 

Thats Crazy!!! Thats expensive to be doing often.
How often should a transmission flush be done? and the Pan cleaned?
By the way? Where is the transmission oil filter located?

I have 38k should i do it?
Roger

 

just drain and fill at 38K.. Id suggest taking a look at fluid when you change oil and drop pan at maybe 60K or so.





For the original question... at 90K miles I would definately drop the pan and clean off the magnet and get all new synth fluid in there. FWIW I am planning on a larger aftermarket tranny cooler as wel so now would be the best time in my opinion.

 

With non-synthetic ATF I would suggest flushing every 30K on these auto trannies. They just don't hold up like other's I've experienced. If you have synthetic then you'll be ok for probably 60K before a flush.

And there is no filter in the tranny, just a screen that you can clean out with some brake cleaner.

 

radpp16,

If you're at 38k on the stock transmission oil, drop the pan. If you care for the car, drop the pan. You should have seen the sludge I had at 16K.

p/n for the gasket from Dave B 31397-80X01.

foodmanry,

I couldn't remove the metal screen. Do you have to remove the valve body to remove it? It had a flat metal plate held by 8 bolts, but one had the nut facing down instead of the bolt head?? Is this normal?

SHIFT_woosh

 

HOLD IT!!!TIME OUT!!! How come you are using Mobil 1 ATF. I would have swear that our Max 2k-2k3 use a different kind of tranny fluid. They don't use Dexron III because the fluid is red. When I looked my fluid it looks clear oil. I know this most cars uses Dexron III but with new Nissan they don't use it. The owner manual didn't say about using Dexron. Isn't that gonna mess up your tranny or cause some shifting problem? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

How much should a mechanic charge for doing a job like this(DRAIN AND FILL and CLEAN PAN)..lets say i buy my own oil.
I dont want to go to a local mechanic and get ripped off.
What is a GASKET?
ROger

 

ATF is red... MTF is a brown oil look.. ATF that is worn out can sometimes look brownish.


I helped a friend drain/flush and used the nissan ATF (red) and the old fluid was slightly brown. Major shift difference (for the good). I drain/flushed mine and it was a really dark red, put in M1 ATF and it was red- noticed a slightly better shift but my oil wasn't bad to start with.

 

I don't know about 2k2-2k3. I know my manual says dexron III and mercon which Mobil 1 Syn ATF satisfies. Your profile says you have a 2K1 so Mobil1 syn ATF should be fine.

Actually car shifts and runs to redline like a dream.

100% pure synthetic blood, say when
SHIFT_woosh

 

Pep Boys sells Mobil 1 for $5.99 per quart and Wall Mart sells Dexron III for $1.84 per quart... Is Mobil 1 that much better than Dexron or am I good using Dexron?? Also do I really need 12 quarts of oil??

 

I used the M1 and feel that the couple extra bucks was worth it. If you are doing a drain/refill you should buy about 5 quarts. When i did mine i used about 4.5 quarts to get it to the proper level. For about $30 why not help the tranny? A new one costs much more. Im no scientist- just my observation. I look at it like im buying motor oil.. I can get it for a buck a quart and change every 3K miles or pay 5 a quart and change at 6K and take care of the engine better... your call.

 

Ok I'm gonna get mobil 1 then.. I saw a post on this thread that said you need 12 quarts.. I was just making sure before I went out and bought some..

 

Hey y2KAOSMax,

I used 12 qts because I did a full flush. I suggest this if you are going to invest in M1 syn ATF.

Think of it like this. I invested $70 for M1 ATF + $58 tranny cooler and some well spent time. I got a tranny that feels smoother, stronger and more responsive than it did when I took possesion of the six new. Some ppl will say this is psychological, but I know its not.

All this versus dealing with Nissan service and possibly paying for a new tranny. Just protect your investment. We think nothing of it to buy $120 bars that do less and see less temperature extremes than our fluids. If you're gonna mod it, go all the way.

100% pure synthetic blood, say when!
SHIFT_woosh

 

I think what you guys are talking about is not really a tranny flush. On our old explorer (on which the A/T was a POS), dropping the pan and changing the fluid would only replace about 1/2 the amount of fluid in the tranny. My brother in law, who is a mechanic, had to do a true flush, where they pump tranny fluid (or a cleaning agent, can't remember which they use) through the transmission under pressure to flush the system until it it runs clean. If I remember, I think ths service was about $100 at a local garage. Agreed, the $400 is steep for a flush and belts, but you may want to find out exactly what they mean by "flush". BTW, that Explorer tranny crapped out at 60k miles, even though we did the recommended service at 30k. Always wondered if that flush did more harm than good by jamming some crap up into the tranny. Would be interested in hearing if anyone else has had this type of flush, and how they made out.

 

phillyguy,

If you read the howto there is a step where the tranny's natural pump/sump is used to complete/achieve the flush. The section with the clear vinyl tubing.

It's a way of doing it without the machine, it works well.
SHIFT_woosh

 

I have one more questions about changing the ATF.. Is it better to have car level, front wheels up, or back wheels up when draining the ATF?? So as to get the most fluid out?