Has anyone tried pin #12 of the SECU (-) to disarm the factory alarm?

The FSM says this is used by the trunk key switch to deactivate the alarm.

I am planning on installing an alarm/remote start on my 2002 (first time) and I have found most of the info I need on this board except for the factory disarm.

Great site...

 

Don't need the factory disarm. As soon as the starter is engaged it will disarm the factory alarm. I've got a DEI remote start working off my factory keyless on my 2003 and it works great.

Shane

 

You're right Shane, I was thinking more for the trunk release without having to unlock the doors first.
Besides I'm not sure how to unlock the doors using the trunk pulse since unlock is dbl pulse and trunk is single and I don't think I can change the trunk ouput on the alarm to dbl pulse. (relays galore?)

I have read your threads but did not find anything on the trunk release. How did you do yours?

Charlie

 

how will the remote start work? I thought our cars are equiped with the "immobolizer" system that will only start the car with key's with microchip in it?

 

they hide the chop off valet key in the cabin near the sensor. just the immoblizer from the key . pretty scary.

 

Are you freaking serious??

 

yes I'am for real. I think I am 99.9% correct unless they find another way to do it. can anybody double check

 

Wow, they are defeating the purpose of an alarm system. Find the valet key and you kill two birds with one stone. Go figure.

Pedro

 

Yes, you have to put your valet key in the imobilizer for the remote start to work. What I did though was hide the imobilizer module behind my guage cluster when I tapped my tach wire. If someone breaks into my car and can find that, they can have the car. As for as my trunk goes, I'm still using the factory keyless. If you hit the "door lock" on the remote twice, the car will start. Adding the DEI remote start took me all of about 2 hours. Best 120.00 I ever spent.

Shane

 

I remember hearing 1 member on here talk about some alarm he had installed, that did NOT require the use of a chopped key. Can't remember who though...

 

FYI, one of the first things thieves go for when stealing a car is the ECU and cauge cluster -- IF, it has low miles. I know, because they snagged mine out of my civic a year ago... If they steal the gauges, they will see your key and then get your whole car.. I would hide it better if I were you...

 

I'll tell you, if they can get the ECU and the gauge cluster, they can have the car. 21 years with Allstate, it's about time they bought me that G35 coupe I've always wanted.........Ha Ha Ha......

Shane

 

 

Just finished installing my two way lcd alarm and the range is amazing.
Thanks to this board. Got a lot of info from it.
I'm still working in the remote start and I have a few issues to resolve. Hope someone could help.

1) How do you remove the steering column cover? After removing the
3 screws that are in plain view what's next?

2) The gauge cluster, does it just pull out after removing the 2 top
screws and the steering colum cover?

3) Those with 6 spd, did you use pin #44 PNP of the ECM for
additional protection? That ECM harness is very tight.
How/Where did you tap into it?

Thanks,

 

Before I answer any questions, did the pin #12 work off the SECU unit?

1) On the underside of the column, there are the 3 screws you are talking about.
2) Once they are removed, remove the black plastic ring that circles around the key cylinder (where the clear part is).
3) Pull the top piece upwards - it's connected with plastic tabs.

No. You have to do a few things first:

WARNING: DO NOT PUT THE KEY IN THE CAR WHILE THE CLUSTER IS REMOVED.
1) Be sure the car is off and the key is removed from the ignition.
2) Remove the knee kick panel under the steering column.
3) Remove the metal support brace that is under the steering column.
4) Remove 2 nuts off of fixed bolts that hold up the steering column. You'll need a socket extension to get to them. Once you remove both of them, the steering column will drop significantly.
5) Remove the 2 screws at the top of the cluster.
6) Carefully pry the top of the cluster trim towards the ground.
7) Once you can grip the top with your fingers, push downwards and pull toward you at the same time to release the top. The bottom will pop out, except on the right side.
8) Use a short phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the back side of the cluster that holds in the flexible piping.
9) Disconnect all wires connected to the trim (if any).
10) Now you are at the cluster. You'll see 3 screws holding down the white cluster backing. Remove those 3 screws and pull on the cluster.
11) Disconnect the electrical connectors on the back of the cluster and remove.

Most, if not everyone, didn't tap pin #44. The problem is that pin #44 only shows a maximum of a 5v signal, which is less than what is needed to drive a relay. Currently, people (including myself) are just grounding the signal. I have a circuit designed (and waiting) to be tested that will utilize pin #44. But the parts alone are over $35, not including assembly, etc.

As for tapping the ECU, you can use regular 3M taps (available at Home Depot, Radio Shack, etc). Tapping the wires is a pain at the ECU connector, but that is the best place to do it. I hide all of mine inside the white plastic cover where the connector is. This way, no one can tell by doing a visual inspection that anything has been changed. I tapped my E-Manage and the "pin #44 wire" all inside the connector. It is definitely tight, but can be done.

Oh, and when you do the remote start, contact Pearl96Max (here on the .org) for instructions on how to hook up the relays so that you can utilize only 4 starter relays, as well as having the starter kill functional.

Good luck. If you have any other questions, let me know. I installed all of my alarm stuff myself, so I have a good working knowledge of the hookup process.

 

[QUOTE=studman]Before I answer any questions, did the pin #12 work off the SECU unit?

I did not have to try it as the alarm unit automatically unlocks the doors before it pops the trunk open. I guess that is how it disarms itself internally which worked out perfect.


[QUOTE=studman]Most, if not everyone, didn't tap pin #44. The problem is that pin #44 only shows a maximum of a 5v signal, which is less than what is needed to drive a relay. Currently, people (including myself) are just grounding the signal. I have a circuit designed (and waiting) to be tested that will utilize pin #44. But the parts alone are over $35, not including assembly, etc

Is 0v or neg (when in neutral) not what we need to allow the remote start?
Relay circuit: 85 to 12v, 86 to pin44 SECU, 30 ground, 87 to alarm neg sense


[QUOTE=studman]Oh, and when you do the remote start, contact Pearl96Max (here on the .org) for instructions on how to hook up the relays so that you can utilize only 4 starter relays, as well as having the starter kill functional.

Curious, why would I need 4 relays? I only used one for the starter kill and one each for the two starter wires. Mind you, I have not tested it, just in paper. I know the starter kill is functional bc it won't start when it's armed.

Thanks for all your input, I will try opening up the steering/gauge area first chance I get.

 

That's for the remote start, not the starter kill. There will be 5 relays in all... 4 remote starter relays and 1 starter kill relay.

Relay #1 = Accessory
Relay #2 = Ignition 1 & 2
Relay #3 = Starter 1
Relay #4 = Starter 2
Relay #5 = Starter Kill

We have to provide a ground signal. The ECU doesn't put out a ground signal on pin #44. So you'll have to use that side as the "power" side (85) of the relay. Then you wire up ground to (86) and (30). Then you wire up (87) to the wire coming off the remote start (with the in-line switch).

 

Got it, the alarm I have uses built in relays. The down side is if the relay fails the whole unit is done.


I understand now what 0v means, thanks.
I wonder why the FSM says it should have 11-14v when in gear. Hmmm.

 

Finally got a chance today to finish installing the 2 way lcd alarm/remote start except for the bypass. The universal bypass I have did'nt work so maybe I should get the DEI 555U.

Studman, thanks for the tips on the removal of the gauge cluster and steering wheel column. It was right on, to the last screw.

BTW, FYI, I am using pin 44 from the ECM and it is putting out a ground when in neutral, tested it and it works perfect. 85 to 12v on RS only when starting, 86 to pin 44, 30 ground, 87 to clutch switch or in-line switch.
Pin 44 is active even when the key is not in and that's why my 85 is on the crank 12v of the RS.

 

Well... keep reading... I'm updating this quote that I made. My ECU software was bad. I had TechnoSquare replace the image on the ECU with their performance settings. Upon receiving the ECU back, I now had the correct output on pin #44. Pin #44 SHOULD show +12v when the car is IN gear. Pin #44 SHOULD show ground when the car is in NOT in gear.

I just wired the ground directly to the toggle switch. The power pull is less than what will blow the ECU, so why bother with the extra relay?

 

They relay was more for the clutch bypass to work on RS only.
I'm thinking that the toggle switch you have is for disabling the RS whenever you wish right?
Would your setup then not defeat the clucth safety all the time?
When starting with the key, do you still press the clutch or do you depend on pin 44 to decide when or when not to start?

 

That is correct. I like the option to have it disabled in case someone else drives the car, etc.

No, I have it setup to only activate the clutch by-pass when the remote start is activated. You still have to press the clutch in order to start the car with the key.

Yes

Pin #44 only determines if the car should remote start. It has no effect on starting the car using the key. You can NOT remote start the car if it is in gear. The remote start unit will never activate. However, when starting the car using the key, you can start the car in any gear you like, but the clutch must still be engaged.

Alot of people just permanently wire the clutch bypass on the car. If they used that setup in conjunction with the pin #44 setup for the remote start, the remote start will function safely, however you still have one particular situation where something would not function safely... that being if you used a key to start the car while the car is in gear. In this configuration, you don't need to press the clutch to start the car. If the car is in gear and you start it without pressing down the clutch, the car would jump. This causes a saftey issue.

Using my design, you can NOT start the car using the key without pressing down the clutch. I think you (Max6spd) have wired your setup the same way I have mine.

Here's the scenarios of my design:

Starting the Car with the Key:
1) If car is in gear and clutch is pressed down, you can start the car with the key.
2) If car is in gear and clutch is NOT pressed down, you can NOT start the car with the key.
3) If the car is NOT in gear and the clutch is pressed down, you can start the car with the key.
4) If the car is NOT in gear and the clutch is NOT pressed down, you can NOT start the car with the key.

Starting the Car with the Remote Start:
5) If car is in gear, you can NOT start the car with the remote start.
6) If car is NOT in gear, you can start the car with the remote start.

The following is FYI, but is also good information for those looking to install remote starts in their manual transmission vehicles:

There are "safety checks" that the remote start unit does/should do. If any of the following safety checks do NOT pass, then the remote start unit will NOT activate or start... and if already activated, the unit will/should shutdown.

1) Hood MUST be closed
2) Toggle switch MUST be enabled
3) Transmission must NOT be in any gear
4) Brake pedal must NOT be pressed
*5) Parking brake MUST be engaged

*NOTE: Some remote start modules, vehicles, and installers/install shops do not wire the remote start unit to monitor the parking brake, as it may not be required by the manufacturer of the remote start unit.

If your unit does not function as described above, you may have a safety issue with your remote start.

DISCLAIMER: Please remember that utilizing a remote start made for an automatic transmission vehicle on a manual transmission vehicle is not supported nor endorsed by any manufacturer. Any damage done to (and by) your manual transmission car that is utilizing a remote start not specifically made for manual transmission vehicles is NOT covered under any warranty. Please check all wires using an UL approved voltmeter. If you are not comfortable or unfamiliar with this type of install, please refer to a local car alarm professional. I have not, am not, and will not be liable for any damages or consequences arising from installing or using a remote start on a manual transmission vehicle.