Rear suspension
Rear suspension
I have a stock 2003 SE, I find the rear end to be unstable when driving over rough highways in the GTA. Once I hit a bump the rear wheels feel like they bounce off the ground and shift sideways.
Is this the OEM tires? I am leasing the Max and don't want to spend a fortune to improve this.
Any suggestions?
Is this the OEM tires? I am leasing the Max and don't want to spend a fortune to improve this.
Any suggestions?
That is my biggest complain with my Max too. Why the heck did Nissan stick with the solid beam axle design? I drive a 04 Altima company car and that thing feels like a sports car in handling than my Max. I don't think there is anything that can be done about this. Even with suspension mods, the rear is still a solid beam axle which will hop sideways over rough surfaces.
I'm not sure about the sway bar making things better. Mine became rougher after putting the sway bar in - you literally feel the back-end jump to the side when going on a sweeping curve and hitting a dip or bump along the way.
Anyway, given smoother roads - i'd take the Multi-link any day over an IRS. But put in some potholes and/or dips/bumps on the road then the IRS will perform better, though not enough for me to not like the Multi-Link.
Anyway, given smoother roads - i'd take the Multi-link any day over an IRS. But put in some potholes and/or dips/bumps on the road then the IRS will perform better, though not enough for me to not like the Multi-Link.
Originally Posted by wdave
Run your rear tires 3-4 psi lower than the fronts, add a rear swaybar and KYB GR2 rear shocks, the rear end will feel a lot better, but never quite like an irs.
Prices on the shocks/struts vary depending on which one you want to get. Same goes for installation.
GR-2's run about $280 and installation here in Houston is $125 at a performance shop and will take approximatley 2 hours or well over $500 for a regular shop (e.g. they quote based on shop rates) and they get to keep the car the whole day.
GR-2's run about $280 and installation here in Houston is $125 at a performance shop and will take approximatley 2 hours or well over $500 for a regular shop (e.g. they quote based on shop rates) and they get to keep the car the whole day.
Most Japanese suspensions are over-sprung and under-damped, meaning the springs are overly stiff and the shock with insufficient dampening, I agree with the post above to replace the rear shocks with KYB or Tokicos....
Reducing unsprung weight -ala, replacing the nearly 24 lb OEM wheels with lighter ones- will help as well
Reducing unsprung weight -ala, replacing the nearly 24 lb OEM wheels with lighter ones- will help as well
Originally Posted by Krill_O3SE
Thanks for the info - BTW any ideas on the cost of the shocks and installation charges?
Dropping rear tire pressures will help a lot - after all, if they carry only about 35% of the weight they will be bouncy at the same pressures as the front.
Originally Posted by soundmike
I'm not sure about the sway bar making things better. Mine became rougher after putting the sway bar in - you literally feel the back-end jump to the side when going on a sweeping curve and hitting a dip or bump along the way.
Anyway, given smoother roads - i'd take the Multi-link any day over an IRS. But put in some potholes and/or dips/bumps on the road then the IRS will perform better, though not enough for me to not like the Multi-Link.
Anyway, given smoother roads - i'd take the Multi-link any day over an IRS. But put in some potholes and/or dips/bumps on the road then the IRS will perform better, though not enough for me to not like the Multi-Link.
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