ok the search is not workng for me....so ill just post and hope that someone wont get mad at a maxima n00b....ok....well.....my dads 00 maxima 5spd warps rotors like no other car he and i have both come across......whats a good remedy for this without changing the actaully size of the rotor...like a good ad and rotor combo....he wants to go to ebc pads....but i like hawk ones....is there any recomendations for a rotor and pad combo that doesnt warp?

 

I just bought these from Brembo. There is a Group deal going by an Org member for Custom Brembos for all Maximas. His prices are real good. Check out the link . I have dealt with him in the past and he is a reliable seller.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/266089-symptoms-dying-maf.html

 

Go and get yourself some Performance Friction Carbon Metallic or Z Rated. I took off that EBC Green Stuff and those damn drilled rotors. That stuff doesn't stop your car and those rotors were so noisy (whirling sound).

I tossed on some Diversified Cryogenics Frozen Rotors (originally Brembo blanks) and PF pads. I had the rotors slotted and plated. The plating must not have been that good because they are starting to rust. I emailed them w/pics and haven't heard back from them yet. I would like to get my $70.00 back or a new plating job.

Whatever the case is, this combo kicks. I started with the Performance Friction CM's, then after about a week I switched them to the Z-rated. If you are going to drive around the street, the CM's have great bite and stop on a dime, a little bit dusty though. The Z-rated don't have that same bite. They may need more temp to get that feeling, something that has yet to happen. I just put them on yesterday.

Performance Friction is coming out with some new Rotors that are supposed to blow away the competition and I hear that Porterfield also Cryogenically treats rotors.

 

Hi Kloogy, how mush you pay for those. I just took those off of my car because they were too noisy, whirling sound during hard braking. I think that I paid aroung $50.00 each for the fronts.

 

i got some Brembo Slotted rotors. with PBR brake pads... good so far and really good braking
and i also do brake as hard as i used to ....

 

Don't listen to those guys; your dad doesn't need all that drilled/slotted jazz nor performance pads. Just get some decent Raybestos or Brembo blanks next time you replace them. Then make sure you torque your wheels correctly. There are two reasons rotors warp: a) cheap rotors b) poorly torqued lug nuts. I think the manual says 80 ft/lbs. In fact, drilled/slotted will reduce the life of the rotor anyhow. They are for performance, not daily driving.

 

So he shouldnt listen to us huh ?.....

 

Unless I'm mistaken, drilling/slotting also helps to decrease fade by giving the gases generated by (repeated) braking a place to escape - analogous to grooves in a tire channeling water.

Also, I've heard that drilled rotors will sometimes crack at a hole, while slotted rotors won't crack at a slot. I don't know if this is true, since I've only read about this and not experienced it. BTW, I need to get some new front rotors too, so let us know what you end up doing.

 

There is definately an advantage to drilled/ slotted rotors. There is a reason Porsche uses them on their cars, and I know its not just for looks. We are not toalking about caliper paint here folks....this is something that does make a difference.

 

[QUOTE=Architect]Unless I'm mistaken, drilling/slotting also helps to decrease fade by giving the gases generated by (repeated/prolonged) braking a place to escape - analogous to grooves in a tire channeling water.QUOTE]

0123456789

 

i know any sort of style is an upgrade like the brembo blanks that are just plain rotors, but the sloted and cross drilled do have some advantages, but your right that arent needed for every day driving, but they may have some performance gains and i kno they dissapate heat better b/c there is more open surface area, thanks for all the help

 

Well I wanted to upgrade. I got the Stillen crossdrilled and Axxis pads. they stop great with no warping(yet). They do make that whriling noise tho. No cracks yet, but go for slotted if you have the choice.

 

The biggest reason I see rotors warp is incorrect torque! Guys crank on them like no tomorrow either with an impact gun or power bar. That's all it takes...goodbye. Torque to manufacturer's spec, in the owner's maual approx 87-90 ft/lbs. Double check this to make sure, otherwise rotors should last a good long time if treated properly.

 

yes i kno thats why some rotors warp.....but this 100% is not the reason these rotors warped.....my dad watched them put on the wheels with a torque wrench....n i have check the torque down the road on them......so trust me....its not what has them warped...ill proly have him get the cross drilled and sloted combo....hes not to worried about noise...he wants more sound outa the stock exhuast....i agree with him....the things beastly quiet...its scary...maybe a little more db's with the same stock tone

 

Brembo does not make slotted rotors or cross drill. they just make the rotors. some company don't even make porperty. slotted rotors just eats the pad up every quick. Raybestos rotor warp twice as fast as oem, stay away, but they come life time warr. you can't loose

 

it seems to be the best way to go may just be the brembo blanks....since the oem is just lacking in strength a little bit

 

Just FYI, my rotors warped TWICE in 16k miles and that's after/with very careful tightening of the wheels with a VERY GOOD and EXPENSIVE torque wrench -and I drive (well) a manual tranny to boot -which is generally considered to be easier on brakes than autos..

Our brakes suck -plain and simple. That's why the '02's got bigger brakes -because what Nissan installed on the 00's and '01's is hooey and should be

Cross-drilling may be fine for Porsche, but it's frowned on by every aftermarket brake kit supplier out there....does anyone wonder why?

 

I warped my rotors once, I cut them at my work for free myself, where-ok for a while but seemed to pulsate under heavy braking. So I got some Hawk HPS pads from Tire Rack for like 45 bux, man the shimmy in the wheel when hitting the brakes at even 130+MPH is none existant. I Recently repleaced my front rotors- 2nd set, with some EBC Slotted and drilled ones with Hawk HPS front and Akebono ceramics in the rear and the car stops right on the dime with no vibrations from the wheel- the whirring noise when coming to a stop is kinda there, but it doesn't bother me since my engine and stereo are much louder when I'm engine braking it half the time also :P BTW the car has 72K miles.

 

I've read that slotted/drilled rotors used to have an off-gassing benefit, but with modern brake pads they do not have a benefit other than looks.

Also, re: brake pads, people often go with "Z rated", etc. pads because they assume they are better. They ARE better if you're doing a lot of high-speed laps at a track and need to be able to continuously brake at high speeds without fade. Around town, they're much worse than normal pads, because they suck until they heat up quite a bit.

In other words, for most of us, don't bother spending the $$ for the slots and holes in the rotors, and don't worry about buying a brake pad that can slow you from 180 mph repeatedly, because you'll never get there.

 

is this guy still doing the deal???? i emailed him and nothing yet
i would love to get some cross drilled and slotted cause i got heavy shaking with my OEMs
can anyone point me to them??

 

I have a 2002 and the brakes are fine. The rotors sometimes warp in the cold weather at low speeds. But I still think the brakes are good enough for me for at least another 10000 miles. Yes, I am a semi-aggressive driver and I sometimes do heavy/sudden braking. When it's time to me to replace my rotors, I'll get Brembo BLANKS.


~limsandy

 

The drilled rotors were to vent the gasses older pads generated. That is not necessary anymore. Newer pads do not generate gas under heavy braking. However, the slots do still serve a purpose. The slots keep the face of the pad clean and help it wear evenly.

Slammed95, how do you fit rotors that big into the stock calipers?

 

his name is Automax_95..
pm him with your year of your car..the model and the style of rotors u want... for either front and rear...
and also give him your zip...
it might take him a few days to answer back.. he's been pretty busy lately

i ordered mine from him to ... most it will take 2 weeks to get the rotors

 

I personally have been through 2 sets of rotors, and 2 sets of brake pads on my car and its a 2003 and i've only had it for a little over a year. . . .Maybe Nissan needs to use better quality rotors or something ???

 

ok.......the combo im recomending to my dad......sloted rotors and hawk pads...thats next time he gets brakes......should be soon.....car has 76k on it

 

Do you do mostly city driving? 2 sets in that short time period is 2 too many IMHO.

 

will the APv's fit with the stock wheels??????
i hope so cause i cant afford the wheels yet

 

Slammed95 is running 17's.....but I dont think the AP Racing kit would clear the stock 17's....

 

I didn't say it doesn't do anything, I just said his dad doesn't need it. Porsche is a sports car; his dad's Max is a grocery-getter.

 

no its def more then a grocery getting.....id call it a conservativly agresive point a to point b car....but your right he probably wont need crossed drilled and sloted.....ima just tell him to get better blank ones....or sloted.....with hawk pads