How Good Are Our Alternators? (Read this one)
12-15-2003, 04:30 AM
#1
How Good Are Our Alternators? (Read this one)
The org screwed up when i posted that other thread, and i cant delete it cause no post showed up, so now i gotta type it all again here...
So anyhow, who know's how good our alternators are? When my car is sitting outside over night with cold, snowy, or icy weather like today, my car wont start. I just replaced my OEM battery this past thursday with a diehard silver battery, so im thinking the alternator isn't holding a full charge anymore? Has anyone else had this problem?
I only have 38k miles on my car, i dont think the alternator should be crapping out on me so soon, what do you people think?
So anyhow, who know's how good our alternators are? When my car is sitting outside over night with cold, snowy, or icy weather like today, my car wont start. I just replaced my OEM battery this past thursday with a diehard silver battery, so im thinking the alternator isn't holding a full charge anymore? Has anyone else had this problem?
I only have 38k miles on my car, i dont think the alternator should be crapping out on me so soon, what do you people think?
12-15-2003, 04:51 AM
#2
to check to alternator, just start the car and pull out the positive cable and negative cable from the battery. If the car shut down it aternator going bad. hope this help. BTW don't go to sears yet and clain for new battery. check for alt first, if the alt is replace first and then claim for new battery.
12-15-2003, 06:35 AM
#3
Originally Posted by NYC TAR
to check to alternator, just start the car and pull out the positive cable and negative cable from the battery. If the car shut down it aternator going bad. hope this help. BTW don't go to sears yet and clain for new battery. check for alt first, if the alt is replace first and then claim for new battery.
I hope to dear god you were kidding!
NEVER EVER EVER REMOVE BATTERY CABLES WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING
You will likely blow the alternator, and any other electrical devices inside the vehicle (ECU, possibly the ignition coils, etc.) if you remove any of the battery cables with the engine running.
To check for alternator functionality, use a voltmeter on the battery (to check charging voltage), or preferably, take the car to Autozone or Advance Auto Parts... they have a special device for load-testing alternators & batteries. Or take it to the dealer.
If you use a voltmeter (or multimeter with a voltmeter built-in), compare battery voltage with the engine off, and with the engine running. Try putting a lot of load on the electrical system (turn on headlights, A/C full blast, etc.) and test the voltage at idle, and at around 2000 RPM. That will give you a rough idea of how well the alternator can sustain electrical load.
12-15-2003, 06:41 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 103
Originally Posted by NYC TAR
to check to alternator, just start the car and pull out the positive cable and negative cable from the battery. If the car shut down it aternator going bad. hope this help. BTW don't go to sears yet and clain for new battery. check for alt first, if the alt is replace first and then claim for new battery.
4 of out 5 Maxima owners agree that is bad advice. The 5th is now taking the bus.
12-15-2003, 12:18 PM
#5
My alternator crapped out last month and a fellow member's the month before. We both have 2001. I was lucky my warranty covered the cost. My friend wasn't so lucky. It's weird, but I'm not surprised to hear more owners complaining about batteries flaking out or alternators going bad.
BTW- if your brake light and battery light are on while you're driving, you're alternator is probably dead.
BTW- if your brake light and battery light are on while you're driving, you're alternator is probably dead.
12-15-2003, 12:39 PM
#7
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=269492 This is where I got the BAD Advice from. check it out.
12-15-2003, 12:53 PM
#9
So you are blaming him for bad advice? "Donating" doesn't mean that person knows WTF they are talking about.
Toy, start the car and use the voltmeter method. BTW you alternator doesn't "hold" a charge, only the battery can do that.
Toy, start the car and use the voltmeter method. BTW you alternator doesn't "hold" a charge, only the battery can do that.
12-15-2003, 12:55 PM
#10
Straight from the Clilton's online
To prevent damage to the alternator and regulator, the following precautions should be taken when working with the electrical system:
Never reverse the battery connections.
Booster batteries for starting must be connected properly: positive-to-positive and negative-to-ground.
Disconnect the battery cables before using a fast charger; the charger has a tendency to force current through the diodes in the opposite direction for which they were designed. This burns out the diodes.
Never use a fast charger as a booster for starting the vehicle.
Never disconnect the voltage regulator while the engine is running.
Avoid long soldering times when replacing diodes or transistors. Prolonged heat is damaging to AC generators.
Do not use test lamps of more than 12 volts for checking diode continuity.
Do not short across or ground any of the terminals on the AC generator.
The polarity of the battery, generator, and regulator must be matched and considered before making any electrical connections within the system.
Never operate the alternator on an open circuit. Make sure that all connections within the circuit are clean and tight.
Never disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
Disconnect the battery terminals when performing any service on the electrical system. This will eliminate the possibility of accidental reversal of polarity.
Disconnect the battery if arc welding is to be done on any part of the vehicle.
To prevent damage to the alternator and regulator, the following precautions should be taken when working with the electrical system:
Never reverse the battery connections.
Booster batteries for starting must be connected properly: positive-to-positive and negative-to-ground.
Disconnect the battery cables before using a fast charger; the charger has a tendency to force current through the diodes in the opposite direction for which they were designed. This burns out the diodes.
Never use a fast charger as a booster for starting the vehicle.
Never disconnect the voltage regulator while the engine is running.
Avoid long soldering times when replacing diodes or transistors. Prolonged heat is damaging to AC generators.
Do not use test lamps of more than 12 volts for checking diode continuity.
Do not short across or ground any of the terminals on the AC generator.
The polarity of the battery, generator, and regulator must be matched and considered before making any electrical connections within the system.
Never operate the alternator on an open circuit. Make sure that all connections within the circuit are clean and tight.
Never disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
Disconnect the battery terminals when performing any service on the electrical system. This will eliminate the possibility of accidental reversal of polarity.
Disconnect the battery if arc welding is to be done on any part of the vehicle.
12-15-2003, 12:56 PM
#11
How to check your alternator. This is for 3-4 gens but it works for the 5th.
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH02_18.html
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH02_18.html
12-15-2003, 12:59 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 95
Originally Posted by NYC TAR
to check to alternator, just start the car and pull out the positive cable and negative cable from the battery. If the car shut down it aternator going bad. hope this help. BTW don't go to sears yet and clain for new battery. check for alt first, if the alt is replace first and then claim for new battery.
NYC TAR, you can do this if you want. When you reconnect everthing and you drive your car down to the dealership (if it still drives) for that warranty replacement, make sure to kill a few birds with one stone while your in there. Have them check your muffler bearings and top off your blinker fluid. It will only take them 2 to 5 minutes to check them out and that way, you'll be good until the next cold season.
BTW??? Have you guys put winter air in your tires yet? I know these potenzas are crappy but that might help out in the traction department that I keep hearing ya'll complain about.
If I can help you out, don't hesitate to post. I'm always here for you.
12-15-2003, 01:08 PM
#13
Originally Posted by ablythe
Okay guys. Lets take it easy on him. I can't tell you how many times I've gotten that advice on diagnosing an alternator.
NYC TAR, you can do this if you want. When you reconnect everthing and you drive your car down to the dealership (if it still drives) for that warranty replacement, make sure to kill a few birds with one stone while your in there. Have them check your muffler bearings and top off your blinker fluid. It will only take them 2 to 5 minutes to check them out and that way, you'll be good until the next cold season.
BTW??? Have you guys put winter air in your tires yet? I know these potenzas are crappy but that might help out in the traction department that I keep hearing ya'll complain about.
If I can help you out, don't hesitate to post. I'm always here for you.
NYC TAR, you can do this if you want. When you reconnect everthing and you drive your car down to the dealership (if it still drives) for that warranty replacement, make sure to kill a few birds with one stone while your in there. Have them check your muffler bearings and top off your blinker fluid. It will only take them 2 to 5 minutes to check them out and that way, you'll be good until the next cold season.
BTW??? Have you guys put winter air in your tires yet? I know these potenzas are crappy but that might help out in the traction department that I keep hearing ya'll complain about.
If I can help you out, don't hesitate to post. I'm always here for you.
ok I agree got
badly this time . but, I didn't know better. Do a search this advice is given when to people who have problem with alt all the time. why am I taking all the heat.
12-15-2003, 02:19 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 778
Originally Posted by ablythe
. Have them check your muffler bearings and top off your blinker fluid. It will only take them 2 to 5 minutes to check them out and that way, you'll be good until the next cold season.
BTW??? Have you guys put winter air in your tires yet? I know these potenzas are crappy but that might help out in the traction department that I keep hearing ya'll complain about..
BTW??? Have you guys put winter air in your tires yet? I know these potenzas are crappy but that might help out in the traction department that I keep hearing ya'll complain about..
12-15-2003, 06:17 PM
#16
Originally Posted by NYC TAR
to check to alternator, just start the car and pull out the positive cable and negative cable from the battery. If the car shut down it aternator going bad. hope this help. BTW don't go to sears yet and clain for new battery. check for alt first, if the alt is replace first and then claim for new battery.
12-15-2003, 06:34 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Polo isn't even a donating member, is he? Not that it matters 
yeah, so the manual says that, but i've used that test time and time again. on previous cars, on other cars, mechanics have said it....not saying that they were right, but it's been pretty much a known thing that it's a simple way to test if your alt. is shot. i mean if you think about it. if your alternator WERE functioning correctly, it wouldn't really be causing a strain on the battery where a disconnection of the ground would cause such a fluxuation that something were to go haywire. now if i was pumping my system, that's a different story. but at idle, you're simply testing it's functionality.
just like the blowing into the MAF test....obviously it's not the best method, but it sure tells you right on the spot whether your maf is bad. in 2 seconds your thoughts are answered.
all i'm saying, alt. should only rely on your battery when you start up. other than that, alt. can more than handle the rest...WHILE IN IDLE. now i'm not sure if that's the case for removing both cables, but ground is what i remove, never positive.
if my alt. acts up, i'm still doing the exact same test i've done for years. flame away.
12-15-2003, 06:59 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,836
Originally Posted by ToYLeT902
The org screwed up when i posted that other thread, and i cant delete it cause no post showed up, so now i gotta type it all again here...
So anyhow, who know's how good our alternators are? When my car is sitting outside over night with cold, snowy, or icy weather like today, my car wont start. I just replaced my OEM battery this past thursday with a diehard silver battery, so im thinking the alternator isn't holding a full charge anymore? Has anyone else had this problem?
I only have 38k miles on my car, i dont think the alternator should be crapping out on me so soon, what do you people think?
So anyhow, who know's how good our alternators are? When my car is sitting outside over night with cold, snowy, or icy weather like today, my car wont start. I just replaced my OEM battery this past thursday with a diehard silver battery, so im thinking the alternator isn't holding a full charge anymore? Has anyone else had this problem?
I only have 38k miles on my car, i dont think the alternator should be crapping out on me so soon, what do you people think?
12-15-2003, 06:59 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 458
Originally Posted by PoLo
blow up my spot
all i'm saying, alt. should only rely on your battery when you start up. other than that, alt. can more than handle the rest...WHILE IN IDLE. now i'm not sure if that's the case for removing both cables, but ground is what i remove, never positive.
if my alt. acts up, i'm still doing the exact same test i've done for years. flame away.
all i'm saying, alt. should only rely on your battery when you start up. other than that, alt. can more than handle the rest...WHILE IN IDLE. now i'm not sure if that's the case for removing both cables, but ground is what i remove, never positive.
if my alt. acts up, i'm still doing the exact same test i've done for years. flame away.
While that may have held true on a 1946 chrysler with a DC generator instead of an alternator, this method hasn't been relevant since they started using alternators (which are AC). It can take out a diode. Alternator diodes can be fried if the alternator output goes to an open circuit, i.e. taking the - term off opens the charging circuit. You might get away with it here and there, but it's not worth the risk when a volt meter is only $10.
12-15-2003, 07:04 PM
#20
Originally Posted by itdood
While that may have held true on a 1946 chrysler with a DC generator instead of an alternator, this method hasn't been relevant since they started using alternators (which are AC). It can take out a diode. If you don't know why an alternator needs diodes, you shouldn't be checking a charging system nor should you be dispensing advice on the subject. Alternator diodes can be fried if the alternator output goes to an open circuit, and taking BOTH terminals off the battery is an open circuit.
That's why some advise to take the neg side off only, but that's still bad advice and somewhat risky (i.e., the problem may be a corroded + term, so if you take the - term off you may open the charging circuit).
12-26-2003, 09:10 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,361
Well looks like you can add one more to the list. I think mine is on it's last legs. The battery light is on and there is no difference in the voltage from the battery when the car is off or the car is on.
Question for you who have seen the battery light on, did the parking brake light also stay on or do you think I am on drugs?
All I can say at 105000 kilometers, 62000 miles is Long Live The Extended Warranty! (and I just got an O2 sensor done 2000 kilometers ago!)
Question for you who have seen the battery light on, did the parking brake light also stay on or do you think I am on drugs?
All I can say at 105000 kilometers, 62000 miles is Long Live The Extended Warranty! (and I just got an O2 sensor done 2000 kilometers ago!)
12-30-2003, 03:54 PM
#22
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 194
Originally Posted by 808MAX-SPEC
My alternator crapped out last month and a fellow member's the month before. We both have 2001. I was lucky my warranty covered the cost. My friend wasn't so lucky. It's weird, but I'm not surprised to hear more owners complaining about batteries flaking out or alternators going bad..
My battery went at exactly 35 months/35000 miles.
12-30-2003, 05:16 PM
#23
If You Wanna Check If The Alternator S Crappin Out Pull Out The Handy Dandy Multimeter And See What Its Putting Out. You Could Also pull the alternator and take it to a place that can rebuild it for high voltage like i did.
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