Fix for Bass vibration
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Fix for Bass vibration
I have a 2000 maxima with the Bose system. About 3 years ago I tried to fix the buzzing from the sub, but the fix was not completely successful. I finally got around to trying again, and this time it was a success.
The main problem is that the metal shelf under the back deck is way too thin and lacks support. (There was also a secondary problem which I'll get to in a minute.) The weakest area in the deck is generally in the open space between amplifier and the sub... about 2 or 3 inches rearward.
When I attempted a fix 3 years ago, I added a wood brace (in the trunk area) with screws securing it to the underside of the metal deck. The brace ran generally left to right (with some angle on it) in the open area mentioned above. I was on the right track, but this brace was not enough to make the buzzing go away. In my second attempt (last night), I added another 2x4 wood brace running from front to back, and I sandwiched wood blocks between it and the underside of the metal deck. Now when the sub wants to push down against the deck, it has something to push against.
The other thing that I discovered was that the cloth mesh covering the top surface of the sub was making noise. (Not the decorative grill.) I wouldn't have believed it if someone told me, but it actually was making noise. It turns out that this mesh stretches over time, and once it gets too big, it begins to resonate (flap) up and down. And it is especially sensitive to a particular frequency. If you need proof for yourself, just remove the decorative grill and watch the cloth while playing some aggressive base. I finally got brave and tore the cloth off, and it was a very good decision. The only negative to removing the cloth is that small grains of sand can find their way into the cone area. Removal of the cloth mesh is an easy fix that can be done in about 10 minutes. (The decorative grill is removed by prying upward on its front edge.)
Adding sound deadening material can be helpful and might diminish the buzzing problems, but the root cause of the noise is the weak metal deck that lacks structural support. If anyone would like to see photos of the wood bracing that I added, let me know. I'll try to take a few photos when I have some time. For those who might want to add the wood bracing to their car, I would estimate that you need to set aside about 8 hours. (Everything always takes longer than expected.)
The main problem is that the metal shelf under the back deck is way too thin and lacks support. (There was also a secondary problem which I'll get to in a minute.) The weakest area in the deck is generally in the open space between amplifier and the sub... about 2 or 3 inches rearward.
When I attempted a fix 3 years ago, I added a wood brace (in the trunk area) with screws securing it to the underside of the metal deck. The brace ran generally left to right (with some angle on it) in the open area mentioned above. I was on the right track, but this brace was not enough to make the buzzing go away. In my second attempt (last night), I added another 2x4 wood brace running from front to back, and I sandwiched wood blocks between it and the underside of the metal deck. Now when the sub wants to push down against the deck, it has something to push against.
The other thing that I discovered was that the cloth mesh covering the top surface of the sub was making noise. (Not the decorative grill.) I wouldn't have believed it if someone told me, but it actually was making noise. It turns out that this mesh stretches over time, and once it gets too big, it begins to resonate (flap) up and down. And it is especially sensitive to a particular frequency. If you need proof for yourself, just remove the decorative grill and watch the cloth while playing some aggressive base. I finally got brave and tore the cloth off, and it was a very good decision. The only negative to removing the cloth is that small grains of sand can find their way into the cone area. Removal of the cloth mesh is an easy fix that can be done in about 10 minutes. (The decorative grill is removed by prying upward on its front edge.)
Adding sound deadening material can be helpful and might diminish the buzzing problems, but the root cause of the noise is the weak metal deck that lacks structural support. If anyone would like to see photos of the wood bracing that I added, let me know. I'll try to take a few photos when I have some time. For those who might want to add the wood bracing to their car, I would estimate that you need to set aside about 8 hours. (Everything always takes longer than expected.)
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 234
Originally Posted by bigk201
I have a 2000 maxima with the Bose system. About 3 years ago I tried to fix the buzzing from the sub, but the fix was not completely successful. I finally got around to trying again, and this time it was a success.
The main problem is that the metal shelf under the back deck is way too thin and lacks support. (There was also a secondary problem which I'll get to in a minute.) The weakest area in the deck is generally in the open space between amplifier and the sub... about 2 or 3 inches rearward.
When I attempted a fix 3 years ago, I added a wood brace (in the trunk area) with screws securing it to the underside of the metal deck. The brace ran generally left to right (with some angle on it) in the open area mentioned above. I was on the right track, but this brace was not enough to make the buzzing go away. In my second attempt (last night), I added another 2x4 wood brace running from front to back, and I sandwiched wood blocks between it and the underside of the metal deck. Now when the sub wants to push down against the deck, it has something to push against.
The other thing that I discovered was that the cloth mesh covering the top surface of the sub was making noise. (Not the decorative grill.) I wouldn't have believed it if someone told me, but it actually was making noise. It turns out that this mesh stretches over time, and once it gets too big, it begins to resonate (flap) up and down. And it is especially sensitive to a particular frequency. If you need proof for yourself, just remove the decorative grill and watch the cloth while playing some aggressive base. I finally got brave and tore the cloth off, and it was a very good decision. The only negative to removing the cloth is that small grains of sand can find their way into the cone area. Removal of the cloth mesh is an easy fix that can be done in about 10 minutes. (The decorative grill is removed by prying upward on its front edge.)
Adding sound deadening material can be helpful and might diminish the buzzing problems, but the root cause of the noise is the weak metal deck that lacks structural support. If anyone would like to see photos of the wood bracing that I added, let me know. I'll try to take a few photos when I have some time. For those who might want to add the wood bracing to their car, I would estimate that you need to set aside about 8 hours. (Everything always takes longer than expected.)
The main problem is that the metal shelf under the back deck is way too thin and lacks support. (There was also a secondary problem which I'll get to in a minute.) The weakest area in the deck is generally in the open space between amplifier and the sub... about 2 or 3 inches rearward.
When I attempted a fix 3 years ago, I added a wood brace (in the trunk area) with screws securing it to the underside of the metal deck. The brace ran generally left to right (with some angle on it) in the open area mentioned above. I was on the right track, but this brace was not enough to make the buzzing go away. In my second attempt (last night), I added another 2x4 wood brace running from front to back, and I sandwiched wood blocks between it and the underside of the metal deck. Now when the sub wants to push down against the deck, it has something to push against.
The other thing that I discovered was that the cloth mesh covering the top surface of the sub was making noise. (Not the decorative grill.) I wouldn't have believed it if someone told me, but it actually was making noise. It turns out that this mesh stretches over time, and once it gets too big, it begins to resonate (flap) up and down. And it is especially sensitive to a particular frequency. If you need proof for yourself, just remove the decorative grill and watch the cloth while playing some aggressive base. I finally got brave and tore the cloth off, and it was a very good decision. The only negative to removing the cloth is that small grains of sand can find their way into the cone area. Removal of the cloth mesh is an easy fix that can be done in about 10 minutes. (The decorative grill is removed by prying upward on its front edge.)
Adding sound deadening material can be helpful and might diminish the buzzing problems, but the root cause of the noise is the weak metal deck that lacks structural support. If anyone would like to see photos of the wood bracing that I added, let me know. I'll try to take a few photos when I have some time. For those who might want to add the wood bracing to their car, I would estimate that you need to set aside about 8 hours. (Everything always takes longer than expected.)
good job !!
I had a similar problem on my car, the read deck would flex insanely (no bose, eclipse 15's) i put 3 layers of dynamat extreme on the top, 1 on the bottom... that thing's mighty quiet now
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
Originally Posted by jattmax
good job !!
I had a similar problem on my car, the read deck would flex insanely (no bose, eclipse 15's) i put 3 layers of dynamat extreme on the top, 1 on the bottom... that thing's mighty quiet now
I had a similar problem on my car, the read deck would flex insanely (no bose, eclipse 15's) i put 3 layers of dynamat extreme on the top, 1 on the bottom... that thing's mighty quiet now
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 234
From: Portsmouth, NH
Save money and go to home depot and get some ice and water shield (for roofing purposes). you'll spend a lot less money with that option. it's all the same stuff. they just write dynamat on it and sell it for more money.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 234
Originally Posted by bigk201
What does dynamat look like? ...Is it glued on? Now that I have the support problem solved, some sound deadening would be icing on the cake. Where can I buy dynamat?
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