spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Ummm, yeah

This happened when my dumb-*** connected the fuel filter to the fuel supply line BEFORE lowering the fuel pump/filter assembly into the lower chamber. I was trying to get the top to fit right, fumbled with it a little, put a little too much stress on the plastic hose and it snapped the fuel supply connector just like that.

Looks like it's time for a new top housing. Am I correct in saying that the part I'm looking for is the Fuel Gauge Sending Unit, which is an integral unit including that plastic top housing (with the fuel supply & fuel return lines that go between the outside and inside of the housing, as well as the electrical connector?)

serin

iTrader: (2)

well, i have no idea what that part is called. but i sure did do a lot of fenagling to get mine assembly back together. i guess i got lucky i didn't snap anything.

† ErV †

melt seal it. if it's integrated with the whole part you can't really break it any worse, so might as well try to do what has saved me so many times with various plastic parts.

unless its really thin and warps on the inside edges.. still worth a shot.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Nah, I'm not going to rig it. I feel a little anxious running with a rigged fuel system setup like that... especially if it snaps on its own and leaves me stranded (due to no fuel pressure)

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Got her back up and running.

Decided to rig it. (not quite how EvilRoadsVictim suggested )

Disconnected the fuel return hose inside the fuel chamber, and connected the fuel filter to the fuel return line.
Reversed the connections at the fuel lines up top (which was a pain since I had to stretch them a little... very gently since they're metal)

I actually did all this last night, but she didn't start. This morning I took it all apart and discovered that I forgot the black rubber grommet which seals the fuel pump's outlet against the fuel filter's input. Took that off the old fuel filter, put a little silicone grease on the outside of the fuel pump's outlet, and pressed it all back in (I was trying to get the fuel pump's outlet completely inside the rubber grommet, without using silicone grease, and after 1 hour I gave up... a tiny layer of silicone grease made ALL the difference, and shouldn't affect anything since it's on the outside of the outlet, which just sits smashed up against the rubber grommet)

So now the broken fuel supply nipple is the fuel return line (where the fuel just drips down into the chamber, instead of being routed to the outside of the fuel chamber like before... shouldn't make a lick of difference), and the fuel return nipple is being used for the fuel filter.

Took it out on the road. WOW! Definitely a much smoother and better top-end.
Alas, I ordered a new fuel sending unit (which includes the top plastic housing), another new fuel filter (broke one of the tabs that hold the hose onto the fuel outlet nipple, so I'll need a new fuel filter just for that logistic reason), and a new O-ring (just out of principle) from DAVEB for the grand total of $89 via UPS-ground.
Hoping the car will run fine until I receive the new parts and have time to do it again "right".

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Mark that one off my to do list.

Rather let the stealer take care of that incase my clutz azz breaks it.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, if I'd have done anything differently... I would have specifically bought 2 fuel filters, and 1 new fuel sending unit from the local dealer (just to have handy in case I broke something, and take back the parts I didn't use)
But that'd be bull****
Alas, I will redo it "right" next week, and hopefully with great success, considering I could do this **** in my sleep by now...

I also have a slew of pics from this morning, uploaded, just gotta write a good narration to go along with the pics

K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

yea, i'd like to see a write-up on this....

stose95

Man the same excact thing happend to me about a month ago. Needle nose pliers would have poped off those lines with ease.
I too ordered the sending unit from dave b. all is well now

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I dunno, I tried getting those lines off with their quick-disconnect feature... pliers, screwdrivers, everything. No go.
My technique now is to use diagonal cutters to cut pieces of the connector off... of course I only do that with a piece I'm replacing (like the fuel filter)

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Removing fuel pump/filter housing

Remove the 15A Fuel Pump fuse from the fusebox under the dashboard. Start the engine, wait for it to stall, then attempt to
start it 2 or 3 more times (for ~3-5 seconds of cranking each). This relieves the fuel pressure.


Remove the cover (10mm bolts, philips head screw, take your pick), disconnect electrical connector.


Using a combination of needle nose pliers (on the squeeze tabs) and gas pliers, wiggle the fuel line off the sender housing outlets. Have a rag on top or nearby in case residual pressurized fuel seeps out.

Remove all 6 screws circled. They may be tight, and they do have a hex head, so use a ratchet/socket the first time.

After you remove those 6 screws, the outer bracket comes off, revealing the fuel pump housing, which is somewhat spring-loaded so it may pop out a little. Remove it VERY GENTLY, tilting it at an angle when it's mostly out to allow the fuel sender float and fuel temperature sensor to clear the hole. You do not want to damage the fuel sender arm.

Here's the open hole:

Note the arrows pointing at the black ring around the opening. That's the "O-ring", and it must be replaced, especially if it's old. This seals the fuel pump top housing against the fuel tank.


Tada!

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

First thing's first.
Disconnect the fuel sending unit from the bottom fuel chamber:

There are 2 clips shown in the middle. Push them in with a screwdriver and the fuel sender/fuel temperature sensor unit should lift out:

Before removing it, though, be sure to gently pull the fuel temperature sensor's wires (blue and black) out of their clip on
the bottom chamber.
Set it to the side, and be careful of it when you're working (it doesn't fully disconnect, since its wires are soldered to the top housing)

Disconnect the fuel pump's electrical connector (using a flathead screwdriver to disengage its clip):


Do note that the inside of my fuel chamber/sender housing looks different from the normal, because I had to rig this up. These pics were taken after last night's run, where I attempted the fuel filter replacement but snapped the fuel supply connector on the underside of the top housing.. Of note is the fact that my fuel filter's outlet goes into what should be the fuel return line.

On a normal fuel pump layout, there will be a plastic hose going from the fuel return line to the outside of the bottom fuel
chamber, where it clips in. You can unclip that with a flathead screwdriver. It will make it easier to pull the bottom chamber off:

This pic is extremely blurry, but you have to disengage all 3 of those clips, plus the T-shaped clips which hold the fuel filter. The bottom chamber should come out, leaving only the fuel filter & sending unit assembly:


If you are replacing the fuel filter, be sure to disconnect the fuel filter from the top housing, either using the quick-disconnect clips (they didn't work for me) or skillfully cutting the connector so it pops off safely without damaging the fuel supply line.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Anyway, to remove the fuel pump from the filter...

Disengage these 2 clips, and slide that bottom bracket off.
There is a rubber cushion just inside there. Pull that out with a flathead screwdriver.
Pry the fuel pump out. I used a flathead screwdriver wedged in near the electrical connector to pry it out.

You will notice that there is a rubber grommet around the fuel pump's outlet:

If this is stuck inside the old fuel filter, pull it out gently with a pair of needle-nose pliers.


Put this grommet inside the new fuel filter, using the butt-end of a screwdriver to push it in if necessary. Take note that
there are some notches in the bottom... they need to be facing towards the electrical connector in such a way that the electrical connector clears them.

Put a thin layer of silicone dielectric tuneup grease on the outside of the outlet, taking GREAT CARE not to get any on the inside (wipe it out thoroughly if you do get some in there).
This is to make the fuel pump slide easier into the grommet. I spent upwards of 1 hour trying to get the fuel pump into the
grommet before giving up (and finally coming up with this idea )

Put the fuel pump into the new fuel filter, aligning the outlet with the hole in the grommet. Push it ALL the way in. The grease should make it slide easily.
Reinstall the rubber cushion at the bottom, reinstall the bottom clip.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Installation (didn't take pics for this, unfortunately):
DO NOT CONNECT THE FUEL FILTER TO THE FUEL SUPPLY LINE YET!!
Put the fuel filter inside the bottom chamber FIRST, and make sure it lines up properly, and the T-clips engage.

The bottom chamber has 2 holes at the sides with springs inside. Make sure the springs are in there. Lower the top housing
onto the bottom chamber, lining everything up, until the 3 clips engage. I always had trouble with one of the clips not fully engaging, where the bottom chamber almost bends outward a bit. In fact, it was due to this that I broke the fuel supply line. I kept pulling it out with the fuel filter connected, and I stressed it enough that the fuel supply line snapped. Whoops
So as long as 2 of the clips are snug, and you can push the top housing down on the springs and it comes back up straight, it's fine.

Connect the fuel filter to the fuel supply line. Make sure it's up on there tight.
Connect the fuel pump's electrical connector.
Clip the fuel return hose back to its resting place in the bottom chamber.
Push the fuel sender/fuel temperature sensor unit back onto its clips. Push the fuel temperature sensor's wires back into their little clip on the bottom chamber.

At this point, the fuel pump assembly should be fully assembled and ready for installation.
Replace the O-ring around the fuel tank opening.
Gently lower the fuel pump assembly into the tank, in the same general orientation as it came out. Be cautious with the fuel sender/temperature sensor arms.
You will notice that the fuel pump doesn't appear to be completely installed, since the top housing sits a little above. That's because the top housing/bottom chamber is spring-loaded. Put the black colored ring around the fuel pump housing, lining it up properly, and install the 6 screws.
Reinstall the fuel lines.
Connect the top electrical connector which passes through the grey cover, but keep the cover open for diagnosis.
Reinstall the 15A Fuel Pump fuse.
Try to start the car. It might take 1 or 2 attempts until it builds up enough fuel pressure. If it doesn't start after 3 tries, then something is wrong.

If all is good, put the grey cover back on and tighten all 3 screws. Reinstall the back seat and you're done!

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Found one side-effect of rigging it up. The car is harder to start, especially after it's sat around for a little while.
Takes maybe 2-5 seconds to start, sometimes 2 tries. I'd imagine this has to do with the fuel return line no longer being submerged in the fuel... i.e. air can now track backwards through the fuel line and release the fuel pressure, so the fuel pump has to build the fuel pressure back up every time I start the car. Doh!
Can't wait for the new parts to arrive

2k3TitaniumSe

iTrader: (3)

Never changed my fuel filter.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Update: Looks like I also need a new fuel chamber, since the Fuel Return Hose from the fuel sender's return line to the bottom of the fuel chamber is included with the fuel chamber. That part is ~$32.
With overnight shipping, the prices DAVEB quoted amount to $140 for everything (fuel sender, fuel chamber, fuel filter, O-ring). I'm literally replacing everything except the fuel pump itself. Damn
Will be SO GLAD when this is overwith...
(although I can't imagine what local stealer prices would be...)

K Pazzo 6

iTrader: (6)

nice write-up

Colonel

What a WIMP!

I got it done...seems like we all have a slight "hitch" to it the first time. Mine was that I did not get the float established correctly the first time in.

Although to break that part, you (spirilis) must have really muscled it, or it was "weak" to begin with. I did get mine done with hands and a helper (my wife) to hold the assembly. I have had that assembly in and out about 20 times. I was bit by the black grommet bug. Although it was not that funny at the time.

Max_Gator

What was the condition of the fuel filter? Did it need to be changed? I know Nissan doesn't recommend changing it at any maint. interval - but it's got to get dirty.

Colonel

I cannot comment on others, but mine was NASTY. The fuel in the filter (semi transparent case) was moving sludgy like, and it was very dark (dark gray to light black color). Kinda like but NOT as drastic as having a bottle of Grey Goose in the Freezer overnight.

And remember, I have YET to see a "lifetime" filter. I would change this bad boy out at the same regularity as any other FF. Until tests can be shown that this is not the correct direction.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I don't recall putting a lot of strain on it... but a combination of 25F temperatures and it being in there for a while may have done it.
I noticed the plastic pieces of the old assembly are kinda yellowish-colored. The brand new parts I received yesterday are perfectly white. Maybe the plastic does weaken over time?

Colonel

Mine was the same color. I chalk it up to sitting in fuel all the time. AND, I would "assume" that fuel can degrade it over time.

25F might have been a contributor because you do have to "fanagle" it pretty good to get it off. I did mine in the summer.

Allenz

Can someone show/tell me what exactly is the filter out of all those pictures?

I have a 2002 I35 and my dealer INSISTS that there is no fuel filter. He said that there is only a small screen that they replaced. I would think that it's the same thing but they made it very clear to me that there is no filter, only a screen.

They made it seen as tho some cars have filters and some cars have screens and they are two different things.

I didn't watch them do it and didn't think to ask for the old screen so I would appreciate it if someone would make me understand what the filter is and why the dealer thinks that the filter and screen are two different things and my car only has the screen.

Thank you
-A

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

One of the images above-- http://atlantis.phantasus.net/~spiri...er-removed.jpg

The big white thing. That is the fuel filter. The fuel pump slides up in the middle of it.
It's officially called a "fuel strainer assembly" according to its box. It's shaped kinda like a ring, with a space in the middle for the fuel pump.
There is also a small screen, at the bottom of the fuel pump. This is not it. The fuel pump pumps into the fuel filter, which then has a hose going up into the top housing.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I just read this part of your post. Yeah, it's even funnier when you just rigged up the whole assembly, and she doesn't start... so then you believe it's your rig job that's at fault here.

Colonel

I found the black grommet by accident. I could not get it to start, heard it whiring and figured something I hosed something in reassembly. So, like a good little trouble shooter, I started putting all the old stuff back together...Lo and behold I dropped the filter, by accident, and saw the grommet still sitting in there.

Had I listened to my gut feeling when I reinstalled the fuel pump in the filter and noticed its "sloppiness" I would have save many tear downs and headaches

dgmaxse

I changed the fuel filter on my 91 sentra and it was cake compared to this. You only had to remove the inlet and outlet hoses from the old filter and put them back on the new filter. The hardest part was removing the inlet hose I had to wrestle with it with pliers. Still it was very simple, the max obviously isn't. Now I'm not sure if I want to tackle it on the max.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, every other car I've changed a fuel filter on has been that easy. Easiest of all was the Ford Tempo. Just pop the plastic clips out using a flathead screwdriver, and the fuel hoses come right off, no sticking at all. Others which used hoses + clamps I'd always put a tiny layer of silicone grease on the fuel filter's inlet/outlet to aide in removal next time I changed it.

But the Maxima's fuel filter is a royal pain in the ***.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

On a brighter note, I got the parts from DAVEB yesterday, and this evening I installed them. All new fuel sender, fuel chamber, fuel filter & O-ring. Works like a charm
No problems starting, even after it's sat around for a while... I'm SO glad I'm done with this ordeal

Allenz

Thanks

10 characters

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

I TRIED REPLACING MY STRAINER AND NISSAN HERE IN MIAMI TOLD ME THAT THEY SELL THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY TOGETHER WHICH COSTS $250.00 SO CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE THEY SOLD YOU THE STRAINER BY ITSELF?

housecor

iTrader: (2)

spirilis - Excellent writeup. Truly an asset to the org.

I know Nissan doesn't recommend a replacement cycle on the fuel filter - How often are you guys swapping? Also, what is the Nissan part# I should request?

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Anyone looking for the replacement fuel filter, ring up DAVEB (Dave Burnette) at South Point Nissan-- 1-888-254-6060
I've bought several things from him... his prices are good (below regular dealer prices) and he's very helpful!

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Since I noticed a significant difference after 50,000 miles, I'd say every 30-50K miles is a good interval. In my case, 50K miles is once a year ( )
Most other cars I've seen have recommended anywhere from 10K to 30K mile fuel filter change intervals.
Not sure the P/N, but DAVEB would have it. I should also have it on a copy of the fuel system parts diagram DAVEB faxed to me at work... but that's at work (I'm @ home right now)

chinaonnitrous1

iTrader: (12)

anything else to use besides that dieletic tune up grease? i have know idea wtf that is.

young1976

dielectric tune up grease is what you put on lightbulb sockets to keep corosion out... You can get them in small packets at pepboys or any autoparts store I would say, if not just ask them, they should know what that is. I wonder if petroleum jelly would work? a little vasoline..

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

would it be worth replacing the entire sender reciever unit except for the pump?

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

The only advantage to buying the entire sender receiver unit would be failsafeness... if you break anything, you won't have to suffer a week of downtime (or rig it like I did )
And if you just use the old parts when putting it back together, you can send the new fuel sender back and get most of your $$ back I guess.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Housecor notified me that the images from this writeup no longer work. That is correct, as it pointed to a friend's server which I used for storing a lot of images and such. It has since gone down.

Anyway, I'm going to repost everything in a new thread, and link to it from here. I'd wish if an admin or moderator could change the URL in the sticky HOWTOs to point to the new thread.

The new thread is here-- http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=2984783