Brake Rotor Removal
01-16-2004, 10:17 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 339
Originally Posted by wojowojo16
Dumb Question, 2002 SE, when I take off the brake caliper up front will the rotors just slide off or do you have to take the hub apart?
Once the entire caliper assembly comes off, the rotor slides off the hub but not easily. Take a rubber mallet or a hammer and start hitting the back of the rotors to get them off...it's the rust and heat that has them "glued" to the hub and depending how rusty they are determines how easy they come off. NO NEED to take apart the hub!!! Good luck!
01-16-2004, 12:05 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 458
Personally, I wouldn't hit them with a hammer.
There should be two threaded holes in the hat of the rotor that go through to the other side to the hub. Pick up bolts at any hardware store and thread them in, then turn with a socket, it'll lift the rotor off the hub even it's rusted badly to the hub without damaging the rotor at all.
I've done this on several different cars. The thread size is *usually* 6MM or 8MM regular course. Doesn't have to be that long of a bolt, 4cm should do it.
If you do decide to get ham-fisted with it, whack the hat of the rotor, not the swept area. When rotors get sutck to a hub, it's almost always due to rust on the centering boss. Hitting the hat really hard will break that loose.
Make sure you clean the hub really well, and the inside of the rotor hat really well (if you reuse the rotors). Especially around the centering boss on both. If you don't, they'll feel warped right from the get-go because they won't mount square. I use a wire brush on a drill. Clean them till they shine a bit. I use lithium grease on the mating surfaces to keep them from siezing again. Just a bit of grease will keep them from siezing for a really long time, or if you feel better, use anti-sieze.
There should be two threaded holes in the hat of the rotor that go through to the other side to the hub. Pick up bolts at any hardware store and thread them in, then turn with a socket, it'll lift the rotor off the hub even it's rusted badly to the hub without damaging the rotor at all.
I've done this on several different cars. The thread size is *usually* 6MM or 8MM regular course. Doesn't have to be that long of a bolt, 4cm should do it.
If you do decide to get ham-fisted with it, whack the hat of the rotor, not the swept area. When rotors get sutck to a hub, it's almost always due to rust on the centering boss. Hitting the hat really hard will break that loose.
Make sure you clean the hub really well, and the inside of the rotor hat really well (if you reuse the rotors). Especially around the centering boss on both. If you don't, they'll feel warped right from the get-go because they won't mount square. I use a wire brush on a drill. Clean them till they shine a bit. I use lithium grease on the mating surfaces to keep them from siezing again. Just a bit of grease will keep them from siezing for a really long time, or if you feel better, use anti-sieze.
01-16-2004, 12:15 PM
#5
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by itdood
Personally, I wouldn't hit them with a hammer.
There should be two threaded holes in the hat of the rotor that go through to the other side to the hub. Pick up bolts at any hardware store and thread them in, then turn with a socket, it'll lift the rotor off the hub even it's rusted badly to the hub without damaging the rotor at all.
I've done this on several different cars. The thread size is *usually* 6MM or 8MM regular course. Doesn't have to be that long of a bolt, 4cm should do it.
If you do decide to get ham-fisted with it, whack the hat of the rotor, not the swept area. When rotors get sutck to a hub, it's almost always due to rust on the centering boss. Hitting the hat really hard will break that loose.
Make sure you clean the hub really well, and the inside of the rotor hat really well (if you reuse the rotors). Especially around the centering boss on both. If you don't, they'll feel warped right from the get-go because they won't mount square. I use a wire brush on a drill. Clean them till they shine a bit. I use lithium grease on the mating surfaces to keep them from siezing again. Just a bit of grease will keep them from siezing for a really long time, or if you feel better, use anti-sieze.
There should be two threaded holes in the hat of the rotor that go through to the other side to the hub. Pick up bolts at any hardware store and thread them in, then turn with a socket, it'll lift the rotor off the hub even it's rusted badly to the hub without damaging the rotor at all.
I've done this on several different cars. The thread size is *usually* 6MM or 8MM regular course. Doesn't have to be that long of a bolt, 4cm should do it.
If you do decide to get ham-fisted with it, whack the hat of the rotor, not the swept area. When rotors get sutck to a hub, it's almost always due to rust on the centering boss. Hitting the hat really hard will break that loose.
Make sure you clean the hub really well, and the inside of the rotor hat really well (if you reuse the rotors). Especially around the centering boss on both. If you don't, they'll feel warped right from the get-go because they won't mount square. I use a wire brush on a drill. Clean them till they shine a bit. I use lithium grease on the mating surfaces to keep them from siezing again. Just a bit of grease will keep them from siezing for a really long time, or if you feel better, use anti-sieze.
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