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Help!!! Maxima troubles...

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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 04:21 PM
  #1  
jimkim2004's Avatar
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Help!!! Maxima troubles...

I started having problems with my Maxima yesterday and I was wondering if anyone could help me. Basically, I was low on gas, and the car started to shake when I let it roll (not pressing accelerator) from a stop. I thought I was running out of gas, but then I filled it up and it still continued to shake when I rolled from a stop. The check engine light came on and it started to blink every so often on the freeway. The car seemed like it wasn't shifting gears, but I didn't push it that hard so I can't say for sure.

I thought it might be the MAF sensor so I unplugged it this morning and plugged it back in and the car stopped shaking. The check engine light is still on, but not blinking anymore and the only problem I notice now is that the car doesn't shift gears at lower RPMs like it did before. When I floor it, it shifts gears right before redline, which it didn't do before.

I also tried to go to autozone today and they told me that they don't pull codes anymore. They said that local shops were upset that they were doing it for free. Is this true? I'm out in Cali and I have a 2000 Max. Please help me out. Thanks!
Old Jan 26, 2004 | 04:39 PM
  #2  
Zero Deuce SE's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2002
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Originally Posted by jimkim2004
I started having problems with my Maxima yesterday and I was wondering if anyone could help me. Basically, I was low on gas, and the car started to shake when I let it roll (not pressing accelerator) from a stop. I thought I was running out of gas, but then I filled it up and it still continued to shake when I rolled from a stop. The check engine light came on and it started to blink every so often on the freeway. The car seemed like it wasn't shifting gears, but I didn't push it that hard so I can't say for sure.

I thought it might be the MAF sensor so I unplugged it this morning and plugged it back in and the car stopped shaking. The check engine light is still on, but not blinking anymore and the only problem I notice now is that the car doesn't shift gears at lower RPMs like it did before. When I floor it, it shifts gears right before redline, which it didn't do before.

I also tried to go to autozone today and they told me that they don't pull codes anymore. They said that local shops were upset that they were doing it for free. Is this true? I'm out in Cali and I have a 2000 Max. Please help me out. Thanks!
Probably due to a bad coil or two.
Old Jan 26, 2004 | 05:06 PM
  #3  
SkoorbMax's Avatar
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Try calling another autozone. The ones here still do codes.
Old Jan 26, 2004 | 05:46 PM
  #4  
DanL's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 288
Originally Posted by SkoorbMax
Try calling another autozone. The ones here still do codes.
Won't make a difference. Apparently California Autozones won't pull codes.
I believe someone recently posted that it was actually illegal for them to do it unless the person pulling the codes was a licensed tech.
Old Jan 26, 2004 | 07:09 PM
  #5  
jimkim2004's Avatar
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Originally Posted by DanL
Won't make a difference. Apparently California Autozones won't pull codes.
I believe someone recently posted that it was actually illegal for them to do it unless the person pulling the codes was a licensed tech.
I got the codes and apparently cylinder 5 was misfiring. I have no idea what this means, but is it bad? Car no longer shakes and CEL didn't come on again after being reset. Anyone know? Also, I got a code P1320 and it wasn't listed in their computers. Anyone know what that means? Thanks for your help. Love the forum!
Old Jan 26, 2004 | 07:17 PM
  #6  
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IMBOUTTOBUSTSOMEGHOSTS
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by jimkim2004
I got the codes and apparently cylinder 5 was misfiring. I have no idea what this means, but is it bad? Car no longer shakes and CEL didn't come on again after being reset. Anyone know? Also, I got a code P1320 and it wasn't listed in their computers. Anyone know what that means? Thanks for your help. Love the forum!
its the coil on #5 cylinder. you can replace the one faulting but most likely they will start failing on other cylinders. you can get dave b's number in the faq and order all 6 of them. should run around 300 but thats way cheaper than you get them at your dealer and better than deals than i found at junkyards. they are very simple to replace. just push in the small tab and disconnect the wire. pull the coil out and put in the new one. coat the inside of the new one with silicone dielectric compound. the haynes maunal also recoommends unplugging the negative battery terminal before install.
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