wcasskicker

iTrader: (2)

My car has reached 65k,so i decide to DIY the rear brakes myself.

Jack up the car as usual, while I tried to take off the 14mm botls on top and

bottom, it stuck. I thought that i don't have enough torque, so I used a air

rachet.


Why are those 2 14mm bolts are so hard to take off? I put down my parking

break, is there anything I missed??? Please Help, thanx all

kgb006

Is your hand brake on, if so take it off.

Otherwise

chinaonnitrous1

iTrader: (12)

e-brake=handbrake

PWRLFT

I haven't done a break job on my Max yet, but I know the first brake job I did was on a Ford, and I tried taking the wrong bolts off, I was trying to take apart the caliper. It was a rookie mistake, if this isn't what you are doing just ignore me. Just make sure your working on the correct bolts.

KiLLeR2002se

iTrader: (4)

they are torqued on there pretty good. Im pretty sure its from the person that did the breaks before you did. They overtourqued it. The 14mm bolts dont need much torque. I dont know if you got the the front ones yet, but the 19 is a b!tch.

Rich96

iTrader: (2)

Although I'm a big fan of more power myself, in these cases nothing beats a good old fashioned breaker bar. As tempting as it is to fire up the air compressor - stick to some manual leverage.

wcasskicker

iTrader: (2)

Thanx all, I appreciate you guys help. I checked, my hand brake is down.

My rear brake was done by DEALERSHIP last time, they probably over done it.

wcasskicker

iTrader: (2)

Does any of members know where I can find a rear brake DIY with pics similar to the motorvate.ca?

If yes, plz share, coz my car has jacked up in my garage for a week and I got no solution....DON'T WANT TO TAKE BUS TO WORK ANYMORE!!!

DanL

Something is definitely wrong. Those bolts are only supposed to be torque to 16-23 foot pounds. Are you absolutely sure you're turning them the correct direction? Since you're working backwards it's easy to get a little disoriented. Don't laugh, I did that once and twisted off the bolt. To make matters worse,
they're "special" and cost $8 each from the dealer.

max 01

NO BREAKER BAR YOU WILL SNAP THE BOLDS THEN YOUR DONE. Instead, apply a little heat from a hand torch- (Home depot $18-) Don't aim it directly toward the caliper or you will damage the fluid, seals etc...but if you apply it to the heads of the bolts and the thread housing for about 30 seconds they will come off much easier- then put anti sieze on them. FYI, Don't over tighten th lug nutz, they have a tendency to strip out and you have to replace the studs...I had to use a hand torch and big hammer for that job too.

skalberti

First of all the two bolts that hold the caliper on are 17mm. The emergency brake cable is attached to the caliper with a 14mm bolt. The caliper was tight on the rotor, so I had to use a little gentle peruasion with a rubber mallet. After you replace the pads, make sure the pin thats on the back pad, sits in the groove of the piston. If they are not lined up, you can use a small flat blade screw driver to turn. IMO the rear brake design sux. The fronts were cake. Make sure you are using a 1/2 inch ratchet, so you'll have more leverage. Also make sure the ratchet has the lever switched to loosen the bolt before you put it on the bolt to prevent error. Remember righty-tighty, lefty-loosy. Unless of course they are left handed threads, then it would be the opposite. Good luck

ChromeSE5

iTrader: (3)

Also try using some PB Blaster and try doing this while the brakes are cool - hot metal means expanded metal.