Went out today to add some anti-seize to my plugs...boy were they in there tight!

On the rear three, I can get one...maybe two, but the center coil pack bolt is right below part of the manifold. I don't see anyway to get it out without removing the manifold. Can someone who has replaced all the plugs in a 2002 - 2003 chime in? Perhaps there is a site for the 2002-2003 like the other 5th gens?

http://www.nissanx.net/tanman/

 

i've heard that it's a ***** and a half to remove the spark plugs from the 2k2+ models... i need to know this as well since i gotta change my plugs for nitrous...

 

dont hafta take manifold off. Turbo95max helped me in this process.....just loosen it, and angle it out of the way. With the proper tools you can get the plug out without removing the manifold.

 

I could see that. The driver side coil looks accessible with just a few extensions and a swivel. The center coil is directly under the incoming air tube of the manifold. The passenger side coil is under a portruding chunk of the manifold. Even if you could angle it, you would have to raise it substantially to get the bolts free, pull the coil out and remove/reinstall the spark plug.

Does anyone have pictures? A pictured removal of the manifold would help out a bunch, showing how you could take it off all together or simply angle it like chinaonnitrous1 said.

 

ttt

4567890

 

You might save time by just removing the intakes like the service manual states. You could easily spend 2 hours trying to save an hour.

 

i never managed to do it without taking the manifold off. I've wrote a small writeup someone here on the org.. Pretty much take off 3 bolts from the manifold and 2 nuts. Dont disconnect the manifold from the throttle body. Behind the throttle body a little down are 2 bolts holding it up. Take those two off, the manifold should lift up. you can disconnect all the wires and hoses if you want to take it off for more clearance. Its not that big of a deal. Just DONT disconnect the TB from the manifold.. I did that my first time...took a lot of skin, time, and blood putting it back together...

 

True, but I'm saying I'd like to see a write up with pictures (like the one listed in my first post). I haven't seen one for the 3.5.

 

Killer,

Do you have a digital camera? If you could put together pics with a write up, I think that would a huge help. Things such as why not to disconnect from the throttle body and other incidentals could be added as time goes on. We would then have a write up where other members could add better/quicker ways to do it as time goes on. Are there any gaskets on the manifold? Any gaskets connected between the manifold and throttle body? (I noticed a metal tab sticking out)

If you don't have a camera, I could take pics when I do mine and put your words in the write up. Let me know, I want to add some anti-seize to the rear spark plugs soon.

 

Ya sure I can write somehting up,
but as far as the pics, I never took any pics and im not gonna do the install over again....Maybe you can add in the pics...

 

Killer,

Will do. Just PM me or answer back here with the write up. I may have some more detailed questions when the time comes. I'd like to do this in the next couple of weekends. Thanks!

 

Alright everyone... I made a write up with pictures. I used some old pics for the pics with the manifold off...

http://boostedmaxima.com/plugs.htm

 

Just take the farkin manifold off. I can do the whole job in 30 mins, it's no big deal. If you waste your time by removing the elbow it will just take longer to put the thing back together.

 

Great write up! Could a mod sticky this?

Does anyone have:

1)A better picture of the two rear manifold bolts that Killer could add to this write up? (I will have some pics when I attempt this).

2)SR20DEN, are you saying to leave the manifold attached to the intake and lift the entire (metal, not plastic) parts of the manifold and attached intake out of the car? Is there anything holding the intake to the car that would need to be taken off/unbolted?

3)What is the weight of this, approximately? That will help when others determine how to lift it out of the car (will I need a buddy).

 

Great writeup, thanks.

 

I am saying that you should remove the entire metal assembly as a whole. Do not separate the TB or the elbow from the plenum. The easiest way to do this job is to remove the whole thing and re-install it as a whole.

 

Thats what I thought you were saying. Are there any other hookups/bolts/screws to be aware of past the elbow? Do you have any pics of the entire assembly removed?

 

what is a good mileage to start lookin into getting new plugs?

 

Killer you da man! Thanks for that write up
And to SR20DEN for the input. Nice to know
what your getting into BEFORE you do a job.
I probably (hopefully) won't need new plugs for a while , at 22K miles now. NGK installed from factory?
if so should go 100K right?

 

Killer,

Could you list the proper pds per square inch when reinstalling the manifold? I'm guessing it would be 10psi to 15psi...but just guessing.

 

I wanna change my plugs too... i have about 28k miles on it! do you feel extra power with them?

 

I suppose you mean torque values. You would need the sequence order to do it properly. It's done in 3 steps from 7 to 23 ft-lbs.

 

Sorry, yes ft. pds not psi.

 

i dunno the tq needed to close it up to spec. I tightened it until I felt it being the correct amount.

Thats what I was referring to... taking the manifold off as a whole. I said DONT remove the TB... just unbolt the manifold and take out two support bolts from the back. lift..the whole thing comes off...

 

I'm guessing you do this like putting the lug nuts back on a wheel. By three steps, do you mean 7 ft-pds (each one like a wheel TR,LL,TL,LR), then a value between 7 and 23ft-lbs, then 23 ft-pds?

 

The linky is not working.

 

Affirmative. That's exactly what I meant by three steps. I would go 7-14-23. That way you don't risk warping your intake.

 

Thank you sir!

Killer,

Could you add this to the webpage? I have web space to host and can update the page from time to time if you want.

 

The manifold just needs the German torque specs that we use at work sometimes "gootentight".

You'll strip the aluminum threads before you warp the manifold but it can be done just fine by hand.