No brake at all!!!!!!!!!!
No brake at all!!!!!!!!!!
I was doing my own rear brake pads replacements. I've followed the service
manual. While I was replaceing, i took off the brake hose and the brake fluid
kept dripping but I've kept the brake fluid at Master Cylinder with proper level.
The reason i took off was because i don't want Caliper to hang with it. After
Finishing installing, i took out for a test drive, there was no braking at all!!!!!!!
The brake pedal felt it was like pumping nothing. Please help me to solve this
problems, I've tried to bleed the air out of the brake hose, but there was no
brake fluid and I kept pressing brake pedal, nothing drips from the bleeding kit.
Really need some help, WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY REAR BRAKE?????
manual. While I was replaceing, i took off the brake hose and the brake fluid
kept dripping but I've kept the brake fluid at Master Cylinder with proper level.
The reason i took off was because i don't want Caliper to hang with it. After
Finishing installing, i took out for a test drive, there was no braking at all!!!!!!!
The brake pedal felt it was like pumping nothing. Please help me to solve this
problems, I've tried to bleed the air out of the brake hose, but there was no
brake fluid and I kept pressing brake pedal, nothing drips from the bleeding kit.
Really need some help, WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY REAR BRAKE?????
You should have supported it with a coat hanger or something. But its too late for that. You need to follow the FSM for the exact procedure to bleed the brakes. I dont have a copy of it at work but I do at home. Let me know if you need it.
There is a lot of air in the system. Bleeding kit is not going to work unless you get the kind that applies pressure at the brake reservoir. You need another person to push the brake pedal, then you open the bleed screw, then you close the bleed screw, then the oper person releases the brake pedal. Repeat until no air comes out. Do the passenger side first, then the driver side.
Check brake fluid level frequently, if the brake reservoir runs out, you will have to repeat everything. Note: Don't push the pedal all the way to the floor. Put a thick book or a 2x4 piece of wood under the pedal to be sure (remove it after bleeding in done). After bleeding, turn on engine and pump the pedal a few times until it is firm.
Check brake fluid level frequently, if the brake reservoir runs out, you will have to repeat everything. Note: Don't push the pedal all the way to the floor. Put a thick book or a 2x4 piece of wood under the pedal to be sure (remove it after bleeding in done). After bleeding, turn on engine and pump the pedal a few times until it is firm.
FYI, I've used Autozone's $25 plastic vacuum pump w/ canister (for bleeding brakes) to bleed my brakes before, and it works GREAT. It is a true one-man bleeding apparatus that works perfectly (my pedal is tight as hell). Buy one of those for future brake bleeding jobs 
Be sure to buy a brake bleeder wrench to operate the bleeder screw when the tube is on... makes things much easier... I forgot what size I bought though, so I couldn't help you with the size.
Be sure to buy a brake bleeder wrench to operate the bleeder screw when the tube is on... makes things much easier... I forgot what size I bought though, so I couldn't help you with the size.
Originally Posted by UncleMax98
There is a lot of air in the system. Bleeding kit is not going to work unless you get the kind that applies pressure at the brake reservoir. You need another person to push the brake pedal, then you open the bleed screw, then you close the bleed screw, then the oper person releases the brake pedal. Repeat until no air comes out. Do the passenger side first, then the driver side.
Check brake fluid level frequently, if the brake reservoir runs out, you will have to repeat everything. Note: Don't push the pedal all the way to the floor. Put a thick book or a 2x4 piece of wood under the pedal to be sure (remove it after bleeding in done). After bleeding, turn on engine and pump the pedal a few times until it is firm.
Check brake fluid level frequently, if the brake reservoir runs out, you will have to repeat everything. Note: Don't push the pedal all the way to the floor. Put a thick book or a 2x4 piece of wood under the pedal to be sure (remove it after bleeding in done). After bleeding, turn on engine and pump the pedal a few times until it is firm.
I've tried to bleed yesterday, but nothing came out of the bleed screw, the reservoir didn't move an inch.
Originally Posted by wcasskicker
for Opneing the bleed screw part, do I unscrew the bleed screw or do I just take off the bleed screw cap off?.
I've tried to bleed yesterday, but nothing came out of the bleed screw, the reservoir didn't move an inch.
I've tried to bleed yesterday, but nothing came out of the bleed screw, the reservoir didn't move an inch.
Typically you have to hook a small clear plastic hose up to this.
If you buy the $25 Autozone vacuum pump kit, it comes with some hoses and adapters for it. Use the smallest hose you can fit on the bleeder screw, and use an adapter to hook it up to the larger hose, and connect it to the little canister as the instruction manual shows.
The problem is screwing/unscrewing the bleeder screw while there's a hose on there. Easiest way to do this is to buy a brake bleeder wrench (basically a small curved box-wrench). Put the wrench on first, in a location where you can move it easily (i.e. it doesn't hit the strut/etc), and then put the hose on.
Just be sure that when the brake system is sitting idle (brake pedal releasing, no vacuum from the pump, etc) that the bleeder is CLOSED, or else air will go back into the system.
Thanx All
Originally Posted by spirilis
You unscrew the bleed screw about 1-2 turns maximum, after taking the rubber cap off.
Typically you have to hook a small clear plastic hose up to this.
If you buy the $25 Autozone vacuum pump kit, it comes with some hoses and adapters for it. Use the smallest hose you can fit on the bleeder screw, and use an adapter to hook it up to the larger hose, and connect it to the little canister as the instruction manual shows.
The problem is screwing/unscrewing the bleeder screw while there's a hose on there. Easiest way to do this is to buy a brake bleeder wrench (basically a small curved box-wrench). Put the wrench on first, in a location where you can move it easily (i.e. it doesn't hit the strut/etc), and then put the hose on.
Just be sure that when the brake system is sitting idle (brake pedal releasing, no vacuum from the pump, etc) that the bleeder is CLOSED, or else air will go back into the system.
Typically you have to hook a small clear plastic hose up to this.
If you buy the $25 Autozone vacuum pump kit, it comes with some hoses and adapters for it. Use the smallest hose you can fit on the bleeder screw, and use an adapter to hook it up to the larger hose, and connect it to the little canister as the instruction manual shows.
The problem is screwing/unscrewing the bleeder screw while there's a hose on there. Easiest way to do this is to buy a brake bleeder wrench (basically a small curved box-wrench). Put the wrench on first, in a location where you can move it easily (i.e. it doesn't hit the strut/etc), and then put the hose on.
Just be sure that when the brake system is sitting idle (brake pedal releasing, no vacuum from the pump, etc) that the bleeder is CLOSED, or else air will go back into the system.
dude, the best thing you can do is get a set of speed bleeders, they are so worth the 30 buks, will make bleeding really easy! then just fill up the system, bleed it, and make sure u reconnected eveything well.
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