NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

.. Yesturday, my car started idling funny. When you crank it up and rpms go down to 500-600, it would shake and the needle would bounce..

I later noticed that it accelerates significantly worse, especially on the top end. It barely pulls on the highway even when flooring and in high RPM range..


I do not have any check engine codes other than the faulty code that i always had.

What in the world could this be? Everything I can think of would instantly trigger a check engine light.





thanks

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

MAF!!!!!!
or the funny tail lights, but im gonna go with MAF

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

That was my 1st thought too.. but shouldn't a bad MAF trigger a Check engine light? plus why in the world is my 2000 MAF blowing? I thought it's a 02/03 problem..

hcn101

You can try cleaning the throttle body?
I didn't exactly experience the power loss with my car, but every time I came to a stop the rpm would drop below 500 and recovered quickly. I brought my car to the dealer and they couldn't have figured it out. Until I ran across some other threads .... I decided to clean the throttle body and the problem solved ...

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

clean the throttle body, see how that goes
www.motorvate.ca

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

My throttle body was cleaned 15k miles ago.. plus i know how a car acts with a dirty throttle body, like you said.. there isn't really a power loss, but the car does idle funny.. plus wouldn't it gradually feel slower? Not drive good one day and then be a complete dog the next?




I don't mind the idle but i do mind the car driving like a 4 cyl.




As far as it being the MAF, besides the CEL being on, I heard the power loss is HUGE with a bad MAF.. as in no pull above 3k RPMs at all.. mine does accelerate but it feels like regular acceleration when in actuality, i'm flooring it..

NT2SHBBY

buaahaahahahhaaa,

son that was your funniest ish yet.....i almost spit my mountain dew all over my 17" widescreen laptop

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

my money is still on MAF. i havent had one blow out but.... when i first put my intake the tube after the MAF popped off the throttle body. it acted JUST like you decribed. and DID NOT throw a code
air flow information is messed up so it messes up the fuel mixture, etc.
here is more then you ever wanted to know about MAFs
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

hawkdog

Check this thread out...it may help.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58#post2777758

From what I've gone through, I can definitely say the MAF was bad, and I never had a CEL due to it. The car did still have some power, but I didn't truly notice how much it had lost until I replaced the part. It was a night and day difference.

If you do end up ordering an MAF, make sure you get just the $90 sensor, and not the whole $400 assembly.

BrandonSE

iTrader: (1)

I know this doesnt have to do with your power loss but i think we go to the same school, if you are in college...



brandon

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like a COIL problem to me I never blew my MAF AND DID NOT HAVE a check engine light come on. Every time I blew mine - 5 or 6 times now, the check engine light would come on, sometimes I got lucky where I could limp mode back to work and fix it and clear the code, but sometimes the car wouldn't stay runing, so U have to unplug it and drive it in limp mode. I still think its a bad coil. 00 and up have the new top feed style injector that verrrrry rarely goes bad. BTW those some fuggly tails-IHMO.... Your Mileage Might Vary-YMMV.

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

that wasn't that funny...now the THONG comment...THAT was funny.

on topic:...i would throw money on the coils...some of the times that happens and no codes pop up. i don't why whenever anyone says powerless and confused, i refer to coils and/or maf. in this case, your symptoms pull to coils. i know there's a test to show when they're running bad.

good luck.

arak123

I've had experience with two sensor problems.
1. When the Mass air flow sensor died on my 2001 max se, I couldn't get the engine above approx. 2500 rpm. Once it hit that mark, the engine started choking, loss of power, needle bounced and the car started shaking. Car couldn't go faster than 55mph. Check engine light did come on.

2. A friend of mine had an oxygen sensor die on a 2000 GLE. Caused really bad performance problems. Sometimes, the check engine light would light up and other times it wouldn't, but the problem would remain. He could still drive faster than 55, but the engine struggled.

Hope this helps.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

wait, polo you are right. This reminds me of a local 4th gen owner who had a funny idle and claimed his car felt like it was running with four cylinders.

problem right now is you'll have to locate which one is going bad

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

I thought about the coils too.. but they were all replaced maybe 10k miles ago.. why would they go bad again..


Any sure way to check the MAF sensor? Check the resistance perhaps?

I don't want to go replacing parts randomly if i am not sure they are the problem...

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

I looked at your cardomain page.. black, dark tint, 02 HID, dark 00/01 wheels? Always parked on the meters up front? I see your car all the time. I love those wheels man.

cobymoby

iTrader: (2)

If you don't have a service manual you might have to bite the bullet and pay nissan a $80 diagnostic fee. Then they'll tell give you a $400 bill to fix it.......

It might be worth it to buy a FSM if you have time to work on it yourself. The electronic version should have enough information.

5 spd

iTrader: (2)

what is an FSM? factory service manual? how much do these go for? sorry for the hijack

cobymoby

iTrader: (2)

The CD is about ~$80 from the dealer and the book which is more comprehensive is about ~$120. You can buy um, "backup copies" of the ESM on ebay for around $10.

MaxDoogie

10 bucks says it is a dirty MAF...My MAF gets dirty every 10K miles or so. My car gets sluggish, idles rougher and looses top end power.

I have never had a check engine light and my MAF has never totally blown.

My Suggestion is take the MAF off, spray it down with throttle body cleaner and then clean the actual throttle body.

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

this MAY work for you..but not sure...when i had my 3rd gen, i had my friend take a look at it. engine was riding rough (ended up being the main engine harness, but that's not the point). he had a nissan master tech friend come over and take a look at it.

he gave me a little "tip". said that if my maf was bad, this was a good way to test it. remove the intake so that you're looking into the maf. with the car on, blow into the maf. the sudden change in air velocity should cause the car to dip in rpm's and prolly shut off. that's a GOOD thing because it means at least the maf is picking up the change in air velocity and the car is then affected by it. if the car doesn't get affected by the blow of air (i.e. it stays on or stays in that rough idle stage) then then maf didn't read any change in air, and therefore is bad. i know, sounds too easy to be a good test, but he said that was how most techs tested 3rd gen maf's. and if technology isn't any different, that should be how the new maf's run.

btw, he ended up figuring out it was the engine harness, through some interesting tests, so i trust his say. good luck man.

BrandonSE

iTrader: (1)

Yeah always at the front meters, cuz people are retarded anywhere else. Although i havent seen your car around lately, you out now?

nailz420

Suggestion: do a free diagnostic at autozone? You should prolly call em first, cause last time they didnt have anyone to do it on saturday, told me to come back next day (in brooklyn, 86th street).

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

nah i'm around.. I have class all week except thurs, and i'm out by 11 on tuesdays and fridays..

I don't know why, but i haven't had much luck parking at the meters this semester. Way too many people sitting over there waiting for spots. Instead I cruise around for like 20 minutes and park 10 minutes away. I don't know how you ****** up those spots, I commute from Staten Island too.. lol

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

By diagnostic, you mean the check engine light thing? I had it checked at the one on Coney Island ave yesturday, only have the catalytic definciency bs code.. which does nothing.

Or are you speaking of another diagnostic?



MaxDoogie,

just take the sensor apart? and spray it down? I'm going to try this.. thanks. When this happens to you, does it get sluggish slowly over time or just suddenly feels dead?

I can't even chirp 2nd gear anymore car is dead..

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

where did you buy the $90 sensor from? I asked a local dealer about a part of the MAF but the idiots don't know anything and probably meant the whole assembly because i got a ridiculous quote..

BrandonSE

iTrader: (1)

LOL, i get there when i have school at 8, so i have a choice of where to park. No doubt good knowing though that another person from this site goes to the school. Good luck wit the power prob.




brandon

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

22680-AD210 for a 01 MAF element, it costs around 50 bux- round 80 retail. I used to stock them in my trunk just in case mine crapped out- I'm on my 5th or 6th one. There is a redesigned MAF out. I don't have the P/N for it, but I'm using it on my Maxima, almost a year now. I would still check the coils.

Blu

iTrader: (63)

I would say your having the same problem I was a week before my MAF decided to totally crap out on me. Although it could be the coils I would try replacing the MAF first. Mine did the same thing stumbling, hardly no acceleration when floored, and idling weird.

hawkdog

Call Dave B at southpoint nissan. His # is somewhere in the forums.

You can check the MAF...if you have a Haynes manual ($10) there are instructions on how to do it with a voltmeter. But, there is also a note in there that says all the voltages can be where they're supposed to be and you could still have a bad MAF.