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Dynoed again and wasted...

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Old 03-22-2004, 08:16 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Just make sure you post them when you get a chance, overlayed with the HS header one if possible.

Thanks.
will do I plan on doing a post like I did with the HS header. I will call them after lunch and see if I can get them again.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
my money on the Technosquare ECU. It gained absolutely nothing through the RPM band and only a couple hp top end from were they leaned the car from 12.0 to 13.0 a/f. I have 14 days to send the ECU back and get the stock program reflashed and I think I will go that route. Although the raised rev limiter is nice its not that efficient for the 3.5's and our ****ty manifold. So it seems I paid $550 counting shipping for no HP gain throughout the curve and no torque gain at all. I was so ****ed I left the shop and didn't get the files but I will get them e-mailed to me soon. Im puzzled on what to do. My previous runs before the TS ECU were 226whp and 228whp without the air filter. Todays runs with the ECU were 226whp and like 233whp without the air filter which I dont consider daily driving characteristics but possibly something I would do at the track.

Well guys there you have it. I talked with Danny @ TS and I have 14 days to return it and get refunded. He said I should try 1 step colder plugs but i just don't see that helping performance. Is TS a joke with this reflash in my eyes I can deal with a little hesitation and stock rev limiter and keep my $500 for an intake manifold project down the road. I just don't know wtf to do.

Matt
Funny you mentioned running with no filter...I ran my stock (GAB) airbox with no filter for a dyno session and actually lost HP over a previous session. I reinstalled and ran 2 more times later that day and I was right where I left off last time...
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:21 AM
  #83  
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Blu, I found that a 13.5- 13.8 was the best AFR when I tuned. At cruise, i have the AFR set to 14.6-14.9 to save gas, then when i go to 35% throttle or more, it switches to the richer AFR.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:23 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1

Its only funny because its true
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:26 AM
  #85  
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What kind of dyno do you test that?

I know some dynos can load the drum to hold a certain rpm and then you tweak the air/fuel or timing to get peak tq and then move on. Bosch maybe.

Are you doing something like this or simply setting the constant AFR and then do a pull to see if you improve or not?

Originally Posted by E55AMG2
Blu, I found that a 13.5- 13.8 was the best AFR when I tuned. At cruise, i have the AFR set to 14.6-14.9 to save gas, then when i go to 35% throttle or more, it switches to the richer AFR.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:31 AM
  #86  
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Maybe TS hasn't figured out how to fully de-homo the drive-by wire throttle body like they did on the 350z.

Either that or I suspect it's the intake manifold.

You're right, it's funny, but true.



Originally Posted by E55AMG2
Its only funny because its true
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:32 AM
  #87  
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Dynojet 238C
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jerome johnson
Man thats excellent times! At what r.p.m are you launching at? The best I could do last night was 14.731@94.86 thats with my 19's & auto, power braking and launching at about 3,500 rpm. I do have the TS flash didnt gain a thing. Last years 1/4 mi. run was 14.40@96.2 without the TS flash and HS headers but with the stock 17's. I am still considering having the ecu returned to stock.

Power braking to 3500 ?? Your tires would already be spinning at that point...

What were your 60' times? They must have been terrible. And I know the 19's didn't help, but the 3500 RPM launch with an auto is definitely part of the problem. Hell, I launched at 1200-1300 RPM when I go into the 14.6's...
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:34 AM
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To test whether or not we make gains. We divide the chart up into ranges. Then we adjust the AFR rich or lean in those ranges to make the best curves. Then, after we have optimized the curve, we do a load test (car running on dyno with the drum loaded) to see what the actual AFR is at cruise (35% throttle and below) and adjust that to save gas.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:36 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Power braking to 3500 ?? Your tires would already be spinning at that point...

What were your 60' times? They must have been terrible. And I know the 19's didn't help, but the 3500 RPM launch with an auto is definitely part of the problem. Hell, I launched at 1200-1300 RPM when I go into the 14.6's...
I cant launch at anything over 1000. Otherwise my 60ft is like 2.9 sec. Launching at idle, i can get a 2.23 60ft....
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:36 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Power braking to 3500 ?? Your tires would already be spinning at that point...

What were your 60' times? They must have been terrible. And I know the 19's didn't help, but the 3500 RPM launch with an auto is definitely part of the problem. Hell, I launched at 1200-1300 RPM when I go into the 14.6's...
What I want to know is how he launched at 3500 in an auto? Stock stall is 2200rpms...
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:40 AM
  #92  
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yea, the stock stall can be from 2250 to 3050 rpm depending on the gear. This is per the ESM. 3500 RPM, youd be spinning to the 1000' mark.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:44 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by E55AMG2
To test whether or not we make gains. We divide the chart up into ranges. Then we adjust the AFR rich or lean in those ranges to make the best curves.
IC...thanks.

Then, after we have optimized the curve, we do a load test (car running on dyno with the drum loaded) to see what the actual AFR is at cruise (35% throttle and below) and adjust that to save gas.
Have you repeated that test after a period of time to verify it hasn't changed?

According to S-AFC users and even my FSM, that's not possible since during closed-loop(cruise) operation the ECU will relearn/adjust for whatever MAF % adjustments your AFC is making and compenstate via 02-sensor feedback on target AFR.

That's also, why TS can only touch the open-loop maps.
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Old 03-22-2004, 09:03 AM
  #94  
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They state on their site that they did more than change the A/F ratio.
Ignition timeing from midrange up (although it is known that this does little to nothing)
They also adjsuted the drive-by-wire becuase they said it never fully opens and actually closes it more the higher you go in the RPMs (I would figure this difference would be significant)

The dynos they have state 20crank hp max increase on a bosch dyno and 12 whp max increase on a dynojet dyno. Both show gains over the entire rpm range. The funny thing is the dynojet run shows an increase in the area below 3000rpm which they stated was the lowest point they could make changes. It looks like they took the worst before dyno they had and paired it with most likely the best after dyno. So most likely we would get half to 3/4 of the gains shown on the website or roughly 6hp like E55AMG2 said he got. I wonder what the dyno would look like if you overlayed the dynojet dynos so that they intersected at 3000rpm?

They stated that people will see more increases with aftermarket parts with the ECU than without becuase of the correction factor. However we are seeing modded maxes gaining next to nothing. And IMHO 6whp over the entire range is not worth 540$ (shipping included)
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Old 03-22-2004, 09:30 AM
  #95  
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1/4 mile

Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Power braking to 3500 ?? Your tires would already be spinning at that point...

What were your 60' times? They must have been terrible. And I know the 19's didn't help, but the 3500 RPM launch with an auto is definitely part of the problem. Hell, I launched at 1200-1300 RPM when I go into the 14.6's...
my 60' times with the 19"s were 2.273, 1/8@9.29,1/4 14.731 @94.86 mph with the addition of the HS headers , and TS flash. I left the shifter in 3rd. 32 degrees.With the 17's last summer I ran 14.402@96.28 mph with 2.239 60' times, 1/8 9.291, all 3000-3500 rpm launces.
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