Loose sound from front right suspension/wheel. Ideas anyone??
#43
Originally Posted by housecor
A friend suggested it could be the strut bearing. I'm not sure what this part is or how to confirm it's failure.
#44
Another thing it could be is that one of your rims could be bent . I know that after I got my car lowered. I hit a couple of bumps in the road next thing I know my wheels where shaking bad. I when to have my wheels balanced and the mech. said that one of my wheels was slighty bent , and he moved that wheel to the back and everything seems normal now.
#46
Originally Posted by callkiss
Another thing it could be is that one of your rims could be bent . I know that after I got my car lowered. I hit a couple of bumps in the road next thing I know my wheels where shaking bad. I when to have my wheels balanced and the mech. said that one of my wheels was slighty bent , and he moved that wheel to the back and everything seems normal now.
I'm probably going in to get my sway bar bushings changed soon & see what happens.
#48
I’ve been a reading/searching forum for the past 4 months and I’ve had a dealership and 3 local shops look for this same clunk problem on my 2000 SE stock suspension but nothing has fixed it.
#1 local guy, noticed that the front right end link was a little loose and I had him replace that and still had the clunk. He use to work at a dealership and only works on Nissan’s and has done so for the past 20+ years and said he has seen several Max’s with the same problem and some people want to replace the struts, FSB/bushings, etc. and nothing makes the clunk go away.
Next up the dealership. They first said that they couldn’t find anything, so I left the car another day with them and actually drove with the Master Tech in the pass seat so he could hear the noise. We didn’t even need to leave their parking lot the clunk was so noticeable. He wasn’t sure and suggested the front left strut for $370 + labor. I suggested that if the noise doesn’t go away he put the old one back in and you all know you can’t get something for nothing, so I opted for another opinion.
#2 local guy. He claimed that he had microphones that he could clip on under the hood to pinpoint where the noise was the loudest. When he called me he claimed that the front left strut was bad and that I could replace it for $360 or do both for $700. I opted to wait and read on.
#3 local guy is a Brake Suspension and Alignment specialist. I had just put 5 spoke 18’s on and I wanted to get an alignment so I asked him to look at the suspension and he told me the suspension was tight and that he found nothing wrong. He also said what #1 told me and that this was a known problem that he has seen several Max’s with the same front clunk.
Last week my SES thru a P0430 (pre cat bank 2, fed) I went to the dealership for an ECU flash and asked them again to look at the suspension. Also during my forum search I found that someone replaced the motor mounts and the problem went away, so I asked them to also check them too. The Master Tech said that he heard the clunk, that the engine mounts were fine, but the left end link was a little loose. So I agreed to change the end link but still have the clunk.
I’ve noticed that the clunk is more noticeable when it is warm or has been raining. Most of the posts have mentioned that the suspension/struts/end links making the noise. I am wondering if it isn’t suspension at all but maybe a fender mount, radiator mount, bumper/grill mount, something in the engine compartment? I’ve pushed down on the front right and left fender and can’t reproduce the sound, but when I take the back of my hand and bang up on the under side of the bumper I hear a sound that I think could be related to this clunking noise but I can’t pin point it. I was thinking about taking off the bumper and plastic around the wheel wells and under neither the engine to see if the noise is still there. Has anyone done anything like this?
#1 local guy, noticed that the front right end link was a little loose and I had him replace that and still had the clunk. He use to work at a dealership and only works on Nissan’s and has done so for the past 20+ years and said he has seen several Max’s with the same problem and some people want to replace the struts, FSB/bushings, etc. and nothing makes the clunk go away.
Next up the dealership. They first said that they couldn’t find anything, so I left the car another day with them and actually drove with the Master Tech in the pass seat so he could hear the noise. We didn’t even need to leave their parking lot the clunk was so noticeable. He wasn’t sure and suggested the front left strut for $370 + labor. I suggested that if the noise doesn’t go away he put the old one back in and you all know you can’t get something for nothing, so I opted for another opinion.
#2 local guy. He claimed that he had microphones that he could clip on under the hood to pinpoint where the noise was the loudest. When he called me he claimed that the front left strut was bad and that I could replace it for $360 or do both for $700. I opted to wait and read on.
#3 local guy is a Brake Suspension and Alignment specialist. I had just put 5 spoke 18’s on and I wanted to get an alignment so I asked him to look at the suspension and he told me the suspension was tight and that he found nothing wrong. He also said what #1 told me and that this was a known problem that he has seen several Max’s with the same front clunk.
Last week my SES thru a P0430 (pre cat bank 2, fed) I went to the dealership for an ECU flash and asked them again to look at the suspension. Also during my forum search I found that someone replaced the motor mounts and the problem went away, so I asked them to also check them too. The Master Tech said that he heard the clunk, that the engine mounts were fine, but the left end link was a little loose. So I agreed to change the end link but still have the clunk.
I’ve noticed that the clunk is more noticeable when it is warm or has been raining. Most of the posts have mentioned that the suspension/struts/end links making the noise. I am wondering if it isn’t suspension at all but maybe a fender mount, radiator mount, bumper/grill mount, something in the engine compartment? I’ve pushed down on the front right and left fender and can’t reproduce the sound, but when I take the back of my hand and bang up on the under side of the bumper I hear a sound that I think could be related to this clunking noise but I can’t pin point it. I was thinking about taking off the bumper and plastic around the wheel wells and under neither the engine to see if the noise is still there. Has anyone done anything like this?
#49
no i haven't done that either, but it seems if we have all had our entire suspension etc, checked my more than one "expert" or "mechanic" then something else could indeed be the culprit... just wished i could duplicate the clunking and fix it, but haven't been able to as of yet!
#52
Sorry no rattlesnakes in New England. It happens to me between 10-20 Mph when you are going over little road bumps etc. I can keep it fairly constant as long as the road is bumpy. For instance, in my parking lot at work the tar isn't very smooth and there are cracks that they have filled with tar sealer and on everyone you can hear the clunking and when you hit each one the clunking continues. Most noticeable going forward, it doesn't go away when turning the wheel or on long or short turns. I can't feel it in the steering wheel, or in the brake pedal. Its a f'in mystery.......
#55
This is apparently a common issue, there is a TSB...
http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB00-030.htm
to see the way to have this "clunking" fixed!!
http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB00-030.htm
to see the way to have this "clunking" fixed!!
#56
This was one of the first TSB's I brought to my mechanics attention. We put the washers on the PWR STEERING bracket and even zip tied a heavy rubber inner tube where the spring was to meet the RH Strut Assembly......Guess what....I STILL HAVE CLUNK!!!!!!!
It sounds like the clunk is from lower in the front end. like it is under the bumper or in the lower half of the engine compartment. Has anyone had problems with a clunking winshield washer reseriour? I tried to rattle my from the filler spout but it didn't seem to move. I wonder if the lower half of a full reseriour could cause the clunk if it wasn't secure at the bottom?
It sounds like the clunk is from lower in the front end. like it is under the bumper or in the lower half of the engine compartment. Has anyone had problems with a clunking winshield washer reseriour? I tried to rattle my from the filler spout but it didn't seem to move. I wonder if the lower half of a full reseriour could cause the clunk if it wasn't secure at the bottom?
#57
Originally Posted by MaxBoost925
Whats a strut bearing? lol
I assume it's not the bearing that goes in the hub right?
I assume it's not the bearing that goes in the hub right?
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
#58
wow I really thought it was the CATTMAN coilovers I had with the Stillen strut bar.
I have clunking noise once in a awhile from the passenger..sounded like something was loose. I might have to check all these out the next time I get around to my Mechanic.
I have clunking noise once in a awhile from the passenger..sounded like something was loose. I might have to check all these out the next time I get around to my Mechanic.
#59
I have a 2003 Maxima 33k miles. I am also getting the squeeky sound for sometime now when i hit pot holes or bumps. Took to dealer twice when under warranty.. he said there is no sound. Now warranty is over and the noice is louder. I cant figure out from which side exactly the noice is coming from. i get this noice when i close my front door also.
#61
not sure about the size... *may be off topic* i dont think this solves the problem, i cleaned the entire inside of my car the other day... took out ALL of the loose things in the glove compartment, and only left the manual and documents in there.... Haven't been noticing the clunking anymore, I KNOW this seems ridiculous, but the noise is no more on my car... Until it happens again, I consider problem solved, although this is not the likely culprit. I am giving it a few more days, and if I hear no more clunking still, I will be happy that I didn't waste any money on fixing a problem that didn't exist (replacing struts, etc) good luck to the rest in trying to figure out just where the noise originates from!
#62
I went to the dealer again for p0430 code b/c the computer flash didn't help, diagnosis...Bad CAT.......ouch!
I had him check the suspension again and it turned out to be an internal problem with the front passenger strut. The Tech explained that the strut has 4 seals in it and if/when one of them fails you will not know from the outside unless you have a leak etc. But the piston on the inside will vibrate and bang around in the housing. He claimed that it was more noticeable when it was warmer b/c the oil dampener was thinner when warm than cold.
4 new KYB's and the car drives like it did the day I drove it off the lot. I didn't want to throw that kind of money into it, but the tech all but guaranteed me that they would fix the problem at no cost if they weren't right about the strut.
Fortunately, they were right.
I had him check the suspension again and it turned out to be an internal problem with the front passenger strut. The Tech explained that the strut has 4 seals in it and if/when one of them fails you will not know from the outside unless you have a leak etc. But the piston on the inside will vibrate and bang around in the housing. He claimed that it was more noticeable when it was warmer b/c the oil dampener was thinner when warm than cold.
4 new KYB's and the car drives like it did the day I drove it off the lot. I didn't want to throw that kind of money into it, but the tech all but guaranteed me that they would fix the problem at no cost if they weren't right about the strut.
Fortunately, they were right.
#64
i also have a slight knocking/rattiling in the front right tire end... i replaced all the tires and had it realigned also... ran be about $450 w/17in low profile tires... but i still have the rattle. At my post auto craft shop I talked to one of the maint. guys and they said that it could possibly be the inner CV (constant velocity) joint... so that might be something to think about... their not hard to replace nor expensive (under $100) it just takes time...
I am going to end up doing this probably this weekend... I'll let you know how it goes.
I am going to end up doing this probably this weekend... I'll let you know how it goes.
#65
Originally Posted by armysoldier
i also have a slight knocking/rattiling in the front right tire end... i replaced all the tires and had it realigned also... ran be about $450 w/17in low profile tires... but i still have the rattle. At my post auto craft shop I talked to one of the maint. guys and they said that it could possibly be the inner CV (constant velocity) joint... so that might be something to think about... their not hard to replace nor expensive (under $100) it just takes time...
I am going to end up doing this probably this weekend... I'll let you know how it goes.
I am going to end up doing this probably this weekend... I'll let you know how it goes.
#66
i finally recieved the CV joint... it took a little while but reading on http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=488423 it was suggested the sway bar link... so i am going to also prob order a kit and the bushing (once I get all the info) and prob replace them all at once... making the CV join the last thing cause if I don't need to fix it I won't...
#67
OMFG, search guys...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=488423
the ******* rattling comes from the ******* sway-bar links...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=488423
the ******* rattling comes from the ******* sway-bar links...
#68
Rumbling / grinding noise from front end
I have this problem starting a couple of weeks ago on my 2002 Max with 60K miles) and thought that maybe my brake pads are worn out. Funny thing is that I didn't hear the brake wear indicator screechng. Anyway, I bought a set of pads and started to replace the pads which was only half way out. During the install, i noticed the disk moving, but thought nothing of it until I tighten the wheel nuts to torque spec. Lo and behold, the entire wheel wobbles. I then realized that the hub nut was LOOSE all the way up to the cotter pin!. Once I torque this nut (32 mm socket) the problem went away. I then checked my wife's Max (2000, 94k miles), and guess what? One of the hub nut in hers was also LOOSE. What is going on here? Does anyone else have this problem? Please post here if you have the same problem This is very disconcerting, safety wise. If it weren't for the cotter pin, the whole nut and wheel could have broke off.
#69
Originally Posted by cmdrdata
I have this problem starting a couple of weeks ago on my 2002 Max with 60K miles) and thought that maybe my brake pads are worn out. Funny thing is that I didn't hear the brake wear indicator screechng. Anyway, I bought a set of pads and started to replace the pads which was only half way out. During the install, i noticed the disk moving, but thought nothing of it until I tighten the wheel nuts to torque spec. Lo and behold, the entire wheel wobbles. I then realized that the hub nut was LOOSE all the way up to the cotter pin!. Once I torque this nut (32 mm socket) the problem went away. I then checked my wife's Max (2000, 94k miles), and guess what? One of the hub nut in hers was also LOOSE. What is going on here? Does anyone else have this problem? Please post here if you have the same problem This is very disconcerting, safety wise. If it weren't for the cotter pin, the whole nut and wheel could have broke off.
#70
I've had a similar noise twice sometime ago, first it was the wheel bearing that was shot but they also had to replace the wheel hub. Earlier this summmer I noticed some noise again coming from the front of the car and it happend to be the sway bar link kit that needed to be replace.
#71
i have two concerns
1) ok. so the TSB's apply whether the car is in warranty or OUT of warranty? and where would i have to go to get it worked on? and how hard is it for them to honor the TSB?
2) well here is my real dilema. Periodically when im driving over a slightly bumpy road, or hit a bump or hard dip in the road, ill get a "squeak-squeak" noise. It sounds like its coming from the rear. I do not hear it when im going over a speed bump at 10-12 MPH. i tested the shocks by getting out of the car and pulling up and pusing down on each end of the car and the shocks seem GOOD. i rocked the car from side to side and didnt hear anything. The squeak noise sounds like it may be coming from the trunk or seats. I DONT KNOW...can some one please HELP ME OUT!!! its driving me crazy
thanks
1) ok. so the TSB's apply whether the car is in warranty or OUT of warranty? and where would i have to go to get it worked on? and how hard is it for them to honor the TSB?
2) well here is my real dilema. Periodically when im driving over a slightly bumpy road, or hit a bump or hard dip in the road, ill get a "squeak-squeak" noise. It sounds like its coming from the rear. I do not hear it when im going over a speed bump at 10-12 MPH. i tested the shocks by getting out of the car and pulling up and pusing down on each end of the car and the shocks seem GOOD. i rocked the car from side to side and didnt hear anything. The squeak noise sounds like it may be coming from the trunk or seats. I DONT KNOW...can some one please HELP ME OUT!!! its driving me crazy
thanks
#72
if anyone can PLEASE PLEASE HELP
i have a problem on my 2004 nissan maxima....
no one knows what it is. i didnt take it to the dealership yet because i am afraid they will tell me some crazy azzz price...
ok..my sound is a clicking. i control it with the gas pedal. always always does it when i start the car and push the gas...it goes clunkclunkclunk i let go of the gas and it stops. doesnt do it when i turn....only does the sound when i press the gas. if i am in park and press the gas or neutral it does not do it. i have to actually be driving. if i hit the gas hard and go quick it does the sound. i dont kno what it is. it is def coming from the front of the car. anytime i let the gas go it stops. the sound stops after i get over around 40...the sound happens all the time when i take off...it does it periodically when i am driving around for a while and crusing. it will always do it when i start the car and drive....it is weird. does anyone else experience this noise ?????
i have a problem on my 2004 nissan maxima....
no one knows what it is. i didnt take it to the dealership yet because i am afraid they will tell me some crazy azzz price...
ok..my sound is a clicking. i control it with the gas pedal. always always does it when i start the car and push the gas...it goes clunkclunkclunk i let go of the gas and it stops. doesnt do it when i turn....only does the sound when i press the gas. if i am in park and press the gas or neutral it does not do it. i have to actually be driving. if i hit the gas hard and go quick it does the sound. i dont kno what it is. it is def coming from the front of the car. anytime i let the gas go it stops. the sound stops after i get over around 40...the sound happens all the time when i take off...it does it periodically when i am driving around for a while and crusing. it will always do it when i start the car and drive....it is weird. does anyone else experience this noise ?????
#73
2004 SE maxima. it has 33,200 miles on it...
i just got 4 brand new goodyear rsa tires and balanced i just got my coolant changed. ive had the car for about 7 months...i didnt hear that sound when i bought the car. it started doing it like around 2 months afterwards...i never had any other problems with this car besides this noise...a few ppl told me not to worry about it but i hate the noise and i want it fixed can anyone help
i just got 4 brand new goodyear rsa tires and balanced i just got my coolant changed. ive had the car for about 7 months...i didnt hear that sound when i bought the car. it started doing it like around 2 months afterwards...i never had any other problems with this car besides this noise...a few ppl told me not to worry about it but i hate the noise and i want it fixed can anyone help
#74
I've had this issue too (early on) when I first lowered my car. I have an 02 with Eibach/Tokico Illuminas. I noticed the squeaking coming from the dust boot. When lowered, the boot was squished onto the bottom of the stut--causing it to squeak So, I jacked it up and trimmed the bottom boot a little and it was gone.
The issue I have now (which began about 1 year ago) is a clunking noise coming from the right front. It sounds like something in the lower part of the suspension. I recently had the end links replaced, but that wasn't the problem. Sway bar bushings are next...
The issue I have now (which began about 1 year ago) is a clunking noise coming from the right front. It sounds like something in the lower part of the suspension. I recently had the end links replaced, but that wasn't the problem. Sway bar bushings are next...
#75
Hey guys, this kind of clunk can come from different parts/area, like the strut or one of the end-link that is loose, if you pay a close attention to the end-link, I mean by removing it, you will notice that the hole is bigger than the stud it self, so if it is not very tight it will easily move up-and down while the car move and hit bump. The sway bar bushing is another one, I have replaced the stock one for the ES.
I have had a similar problem few years back, but the car was on coil-over. Everything was tight, new bearing, every single new ES busing available etc. It was one of the toughest problem to find, I only found the problem when I started to disassemble the front end of the car and find out that the rad support was all rusted underneath. One of the 2 bolts was moving freely & clunking badly since the the area where it screw in was all rusted and moving freely inside the rad support. I replaced the rad support
and put 2 new ES bushing.
I have had a similar problem few years back, but the car was on coil-over. Everything was tight, new bearing, every single new ES busing available etc. It was one of the toughest problem to find, I only found the problem when I started to disassemble the front end of the car and find out that the rad support was all rusted underneath. One of the 2 bolts was moving freely & clunking badly since the the area where it screw in was all rusted and moving freely inside the rad support. I replaced the rad support
and put 2 new ES bushing.
#76
I went to the dealer again for p0430 code b/c the computer flash didn't help, diagnosis...Bad CAT.......ouch!
I had him check the suspension again and it turned out to be an internal problem with the front passenger strut. The Tech explained that the strut has 4 seals in it and if/when one of them fails you will not know from the outside unless you have a leak etc. But the piston on the inside will vibrate and bang around in the housing. He claimed that it was more noticeable when it was warmer b/c the oil dampener was thinner when warm than cold.
4 new KYB's and the car drives like it did the day I drove it off the lot. I didn't want to throw that kind of money into it, but the tech all but guaranteed me that they would fix the problem at no cost if they weren't right about the strut.
Fortunately, they were right.
I had him check the suspension again and it turned out to be an internal problem with the front passenger strut. The Tech explained that the strut has 4 seals in it and if/when one of them fails you will not know from the outside unless you have a leak etc. But the piston on the inside will vibrate and bang around in the housing. He claimed that it was more noticeable when it was warmer b/c the oil dampener was thinner when warm than cold.
4 new KYB's and the car drives like it did the day I drove it off the lot. I didn't want to throw that kind of money into it, but the tech all but guaranteed me that they would fix the problem at no cost if they weren't right about the strut.
Fortunately, they were right.
~ Adam
#77
Also, I want to add that I experience a light clattering or clanking noise that was due to incorrect installation of brake pads. yep! you'd think they could get the simplest things right? well, brake pads are seemingly simple, but actually are detailed enough that they usually get done shotty and wrong.
Check the service manual and you will see that the pad retention clips and factory pads having proper wear sensors need to be properly removed and reassembled so that the pad return mechanism is working to keep the pads returing and properly seated against the cylinder body. when properly serviced, pads should not be clanking around in there. if not, you'll often hear mild clattering especially noticeable when passing over rough grade and near a curb where the sounds is projected more prominently from the wheel wells.
how many times did i use the word "properly". ha ha. i can't stress enough how important it is to be informed and take time when going through the details. save yourself some miles on those pads and labor to change out.
~ Adam
Check the service manual and you will see that the pad retention clips and factory pads having proper wear sensors need to be properly removed and reassembled so that the pad return mechanism is working to keep the pads returing and properly seated against the cylinder body. when properly serviced, pads should not be clanking around in there. if not, you'll often hear mild clattering especially noticeable when passing over rough grade and near a curb where the sounds is projected more prominently from the wheel wells.
how many times did i use the word "properly". ha ha. i can't stress enough how important it is to be informed and take time when going through the details. save yourself some miles on those pads and labor to change out.
~ Adam
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tsi6001
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
12
10-03-2022 11:23 PM
Jcof88
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
0
08-03-2015 11:43 PM