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Struts -- "soft" vs. "stiff"

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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 02:53 PM
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Struts -- "soft" vs. "stiff"

When someone mentions a strut is "soft", or when they mention that it's "stiff", what does this physically mean as far as the strut rod is concerned?
I noticed my old stock struts seemed very "stiff", in that the strut rod took a LOT of effort to compress, and decompressed VERY slowly. In fact, the rears wouldn't decompress at all, unless I pulled on them with a lot of effort.

The Illumina struts, which by default are set to '5', seemed much easier to compress/decompress. Does this mean that at a setting of '1', the Illumina becomes much harder to compress/decompress, and a setting of '5' it's easier? (I didn't try this myself; I should have...) If so, that kinda flips the idea of "stiff" vs "soft" around.
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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What you are adjusting is the rebound. A higher number means a harder rebound. So 1 would be very soft rebound and more cushy. High number like 5 has less rebound, also a slightly harder ride.

Dixit
Old Mar 22, 2004 | 05:32 PM
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Hmm, interesting. Although I seemed to read somewhere that the Illuminas adjust both compression & rebound?

Either way, the Illuminas feel so much softer over bumps/etc, yet very well controlled
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 04:54 AM
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I'm trying to decide between AGX or Illuminas. Want something that will smooth out my ride over bumps and potholes.
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by spirilis
When someone mentions a strut is "soft", or when they mention that it's "stiff", what does this physically mean as far as the strut rod is concerned?
I noticed my old stock struts seemed very "stiff", in that the strut rod took a LOT of effort to compress, and decompressed VERY slowly. In fact, the rears wouldn't decompress at all, unless I pulled on them with a lot of effort.

The Illumina struts, which by default are set to '5', seemed much easier to compress/decompress. Does this mean that at a setting of '1', the Illumina becomes much harder to compress/decompress, and a setting of '5' it's easier? (I didn't try this myself; I should have...) If so, that kinda flips the idea of "stiff" vs "soft" around.
I believe that the internal damping of the Illumina is correlated to the rate of change in the velocity of the shaft. If you hit a big bump or a large pot hole, the Illumina will firm up dramatically because the shaft is moving very fast. Over minor road imperfections, the shaft doesn't move much so the strut also doesn't damp much. This is probably why so many people say it is smooth over bumps. The strut will be very smooth over very minor road imperfections but "might" be harsh over big pot holes or broken up road.
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ABS
I believe that the internal damping of the Illumina is correlated to the rate of change in the velocity of the shaft. If you hit a big bump or a large pot hole, the Illumina will firm up dramatically because the shaft is moving very fast. Over minor road imperfections, the shaft doesn't move much so the strut also doesn't damp much. This is probably why so many people say it is smooth over bumps. The strut will be very smooth over very minor road imperfections but "might" be harsh over big pot holes or broken up road.
How about AGX? Pretty much the same thing as Illuminas?
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Ammi
How about AGX? Pretty much the same thing as Illuminas?
I'm not to sure about this one, but my guess would be "no". I'm still trying to get more information about the AGX. The KYB GR2 has a more linear type of damping which, from my experience on the Maxima, is not tied to the change in velocity of the shaft, but remains essentially the same regardless of the velocity. This means that minor imperfections in the road will be "felt" hence providing better "road feel" but over big pot holes and bumps the struts are more forgiving. I want to emphasize that I've only ridden on GR2 and never ridden on AGX so this is speculative for the AGX. Additional feedback would be good.
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 05:43 AM
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From your view, I'm leaning more towards the AGX but not sure how long they usually last.
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Ammi
From your view, I'm leaning more towards the AGX but not sure how long they usually last.
I don't know how long they last, but there are a few things to consider if you are going to try the AGX. For example, AFAIK the AGX is not yet made for the 5th gen. This means you will need to get the modified CATTMAN struts for your car and you will need to convert your upper strut mount to the 4th gen on the fronts. Also, I believe that there may be some mounting issues with certain springs on the rear struts, but you will want to confirm this. From what I've read, the CATTMAN struts do work very well, just keep in mind some of these other details.

Oh by the way, in case you want to go with KONI instead, the front Koni's come as a "cartridge" which means that you will have to cut open your OEM strut at the top, pull out the innards and then drill a hole in the bottom of it. The cartridge is then inserted through the opening in the top of the OEM strut and bolted in at the bottom . . .

Unless things have changed, and to the best of my knowledge, only OEM, Tokico Blues, Tokico Illuminas, KYB GR2, rear KONI and rear AGX are direct bolt in.
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ABS
I don't know how long they last, but there are a few things to consider if you are going to try the AGX. For example, AFAIK the AGX is not yet made for the 5th gen. This means you will need to get the modified CATTMAN struts for your car and you will need to convert your upper strut mount to the 4th gen on the fronts. Also, I believe that there may be some mounting issues with certain springs on the rear struts, but you will want to confirm this. From what I've read, the CATTMAN struts do work very well, just keep in mind some of these other details.

Oh by the way, in case you want to go with KONI instead, the front Koni's come as a "cartridge" which means that you will have to cut open your OEM strut at the top, pull out the innards and then drill a hole in the bottom of it. The cartridge is then inserted through the opening in the top of the OEM strut and bolted in at the bottom . . .

Unless things have changed, and to the best of my knowledge, only OEM, Tokico Blues, Tokico Illuminas, KYB GR2, rear KONI and rear AGX are direct bolt in.
I'm not planning on doing any type of drilling or custom fitting. I'm pretty much wanting a direct bolt on struts which will smooth out my ride when going over bumps and potholes; as close as stock feel
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ABS
I believe that the internal damping of the Illumina is correlated to the rate of change in the velocity of the shaft. If you hit a big bump or a large pot hole, the Illumina will firm up dramatically because the shaft is moving very fast. Over minor road imperfections, the shaft doesn't move much so the strut also doesn't damp much. This is probably why so many people say it is smooth over bumps. The strut will be very smooth over very minor road imperfections but "might" be harsh over big pot holes or broken up road.
That makes sense. That would also explain why the strut was easier to compress by hand, vs. the stock struts. Either way, I LOVE these Illuminas

$438 WELL spent. Today's 75 mile drive for work was done in ridiculous comfort, in fact I'd have fallen asleep if it weren't for the annoyance of my front rotors being warped...
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 08:08 AM
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Must be nice to have smooth roads
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 09:32 AM
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Trust me, if you have rough roads, you should get these.
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 09:56 AM
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AGX's adjust only dampening, Illumina's adjust dampening and rebound.
Old Mar 24, 2004 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by spirilis
Trust me, if you have rough roads, you should get these.
These meaning Illuminas?
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