I got my intake today and decided to install it this afternoon. One of my friends helped me with it. It took me pretty long to do, taking out the stock airbox took the longest. After I got it installed I was pretty psyched so I tried to start my car but it wouldn't start. I thought it might be the battery that had been disconnected so it may have been drained (somehow), so I jumped it with my friends car and that didn't do it. The car won't start. I dont' know what is wrong.

It gets right to the threshold of firing but then stops and sounds like it stalls out. I followed the instructions step by step. I checked all connections and everything "looks" good. What should I do?

 

did you plug the maf sensor back in? also when you put it back in, did you face the wire in the flow of air?

 

I followed the instructions so I plugged the the sensor back in. I made the MAF looks just like stock (other than it being slightly tilted to fit the adaptor). I figure if it is in the same direction as the way it was stock that it should be fine.

One thing I was concerned about is the sensor that is right at the front of the engine bay (the first sensor of incoming air). After I took the stock air box out I noticed that this sensor is still connected to the front of the car but now that air doesn't need to travel in through there, does that sensor do anything?

 

if you took out the stock scoop then you need to relocate the air temp sensor near the filter. try ziptying it as close as possible. that wont keep the motor from turning over but it will throw a cel if it doesnt pick up air flow.

 

I didn't take out the "stock scoop" (the thing that is at the front of the engine bay that takes air from the front of the car and sends it to the filter box) It never said to take that off. I just took the airbox and the scoop leads to nowhere now. I didn't think I had to relocate any sensor. I'm pretty swure a CE light came on but I wasn't completely sure because the car didn't turn on completely.

 

air temp sensor location will not matter.

so a CEL came on after the car stall?

did you put the MAF tub back in the right direction? if you are not sure, check the air flow arrow on the MAF tube

 

there is an arrow on the tube that shows the way the air is supposed to flow.

 

I think the CEL light was just coming on with all the other lights at startup. The car didn't officially stall because it didn't start completely.

The MAF tube is in correct position. The arrow that says flow (------->) is pointing toward the throttle body. Speaking of which, I cleaned the throttle body before installing the intake. I noticed that when I opened the butterfly valve there was a lot of grease on the inside of it, past the butterfly valve (I smudged it around not sure if I should clean that, could that be a problem, should I clean all the grease that is on the other side of the butterfly valve or leave that alone?). I'm a newbie when it comes to car mechanics.

 

its ok to clean the buildup in the throttle body. clean all sides of the butterfly valve as well the inside of the throttle body. a dirty throttle body can cause an odd idle and hesitation. make sure you didnt loosen the throttle cable when you opened up the throttle body. if its loose, then use a 14mm box wrench to tighten it up.

 

I guess I just need to wait until tomorrow or some time when it is sunny and nice out so I can take it apart and try to put it back on. I will clean the inside of the throttle body (the part on the inside of the valve, to make sure there is nothing in there). I still don't know what would be the problem. The throttle body cable is fine. The butterfly valve is tight and just the same is it was when I started the install.

Let's say hypothetically that something is wrong with the MAF sensor. If so, would it cause symptoms like this?

 

typically with maf issues, it will start but will not rev over about 3k rpms. some have said it runs for a minute then cuts off while others can run theirs but just not over 3k rpms. was the maf dropped during the install?

 

No, it was never dropped, I took care of it knowing some of the stories I have heard. I used a hair drier to warm up the part where the coupler would fit in and some heat may have gotten in there, but I don't think that would have done anything.

 

ABDomega,
Now that the .org is back up, let us know if you were able to resolve your issues after installing your intake.

 

When you get a chance take some better pics of the part on the MAF that cracked when you were removing it. The pics on the cardomin site are kindof hard to see. Better without flash so that there is no glare. Just do it when it's sunny out and turn the flash off.

I've narrowed it down to that or you used too much of that throttle body cleaner when you sprayed it down into the intake manifold. There are a few sensors in there and I don't know how sensitive they are to chemicals. I don't know how corrosive the cleaner was.

But because your car just won't turn over at all it I'm not 100% that the MAF was damaged during the removal. The car should still start even if it was unplugged, it would just run super rich and throw the car in limp mode.

Anyone else want to help out here? I haven't seen anything like this before.

 

My guess: wiring. You just didn't plug something in properly. I had the same issue on my 4th gen Maxima. Took a couple hours and walked away and when I came back it was staring me in the face. Hope you have the same result.

 

can be possible that he used way too much cleaner and flood the engine. but it should dry up in a few hours.

other than that: I would check all the fuse again and make sure they are ok (esp the ones for fuel pump and fuel injectors).

pinch the fuel line and make sure it is pressurized so you know you have fuel.

check the fuse box under the hood near the battery and make sure all of them are fine.

 

I have class until 3:00 today, so I won't be able to check anything or take pictures until then. But I'll try to do that when I get out. I'm really a newbie when it comes to this kind of stuff so bear with me here. Where is the fuel line that I should pinch? I'll check the fuses, I haven't done that yet. Keep in mind that I didn't touch ANYTHING that wasn't scripted on the instructions. EXCEPT for moving the circular thing connected to the throttle plate to open it and spray in there. There are two sensors by the throttle body but I don't know how to get in there and check to see if they are ok. If none of the fuses are blown and I can't find any problems, I'll probably reinstall the stock box and take it to the dealer as is.

BTW, I used "STP Throttle body and Air Intake Cleaner" to clean the throttle body, and a rag.

I tried this morning to start it, it had enough juice to turn the engine, just wouldn't fire.

 

Like I said, everything is plugged in proberly. The only thing I unplugged was the wire harness from the MAF sensor and the negative battery terminal from the car. Both are attached. All vacuum hoses are connected, all couplers and hose clamps secure. I am worried about the TB cleaner maybe I used too much but the first time I sprayed I didn't even use much, most was sprayed with the butterfly plate closed and then i wiped with a rag insided it.

Thanks guys for the help.

 

here's a pic....just pinch with your fingers and if you can easily make both inner walls of the hose touching each other, there's no fuel in the line.


I know you didnt touch anything electrical. In your case, engien cranks but will not start can be caused by following:
-iginition
-timing
-no gas (i.e. bad fuel pump or busted fuel pump fuse)
-MAF (only way to check without a scan tool is to use a multimeter)
-low battery (turn on the head light and see if it dies)
-and finally....your stock key recognition security system.

we'll have to eliminate each one of them.

 

org memebers at its best helping each other out. the way it should be!

 

I haven't checked the fuel line yet and I won't be going back to my car until later tonight. But if there is fuel or is no fuel in the line what does that mean? Bad fuel pump.

Ok lets go down the list:

Ignition - No idea how to check that
Timing - ditto
No Gas - Don't know how to check fuel pump except the line that you mentioned above, i'll check that later
MAF- looks fine to me, no reason why that would be blown
Low Battery- that can be ruled out. The battery was jumped, I had it charged and the car turns but doesn't fire
Security - I wouldn't think that would be a problem, but then again I have no idea

Here are updated pics on my cardomain site:

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/487003/3

 

How long are you cranking the car for when you try and jump it? Try about 7-10sec without touching the accelerator. Is there enough juice for it to crank that long?

 

I have tried cranking it for a long time, with or without touching the accelerator. It keeps on cranking for as long as I have the key turned. I see the that engine block shakes too it just doesn't fire. I have this huge test tomorrow I need to study for but I'm going to find some time to take out the Berk and reinstall the stock box. I guess if it runs I'll try to take it to autozone to get the codes pulled (for free apparently is what I hear). If it doesn't work then I'm screwed.

 

this is where I would start to look first because this is what you've been working on in the past few days. when you have a problem, it would be best to trace it backward and see what've happened that could lead to the problem.

try disconnect the MAF and start the car again
verify if there's power supplied to the MAF - you will need a multimeter for this one.

but like Bryan said...if your MAF is bad, you should've still started your car even tough it will rung pretty crappy. check around for any cut wire - it can be possible that you accidentally damage something during the install.

what happened to your MAF sensor connector harness? it is chipped.

 

Yes, I chipped the part of the MAF when I was trying to get it from the rest of the airbox. If it was simply the MAF then the car would still start. If the MAF is a problem, then I'll take care of it when I get to it, however my car won't even start, so there must be some other issue at hand.

I checked the fuel line and I couldn't tell if there was fuel in it. It gave a decent amount but I squeezed really hard and I don't thing that I actually touched both sides of the line together. How hard should it be?

I have brand new warrantee purchased when I bought the car. If I want them to pay for service at the dealer what should I tell them I did to my car? Should I admit to opening the airbox and spraying throttle body cleaner into the TB?

 

fuel line-it sould be pretty hard. you should be able to feel if there's fuel in it.

warranty - tell them that you open the rubber connector on the TB and clean the TB. you were able to start the car but it just died on you few days later. Sometimes, you dont want to be too honest when you get your repair paid under warranty.

 

Well I reinstalled the stock airbox and it still doesn't start. Is there any way that this TSB might come into play? Maybe because I took the MAF harness out of the sensor it somehow secures the car. I don't know.

With this TSB, does the car not even turn over (like a dead battery) or is the problem the same as my car where it doesn't fire?

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB99-063c.pdf

 

The members on this .org are excellent

 

that's the key recognition security thingy that I mentioned earlier. I helped another .org member diagnostic a no-start problem like yours before and turned out it is this problem describe in the TSB.

there's something that you can do.
1.try another key
2.reset the NATS as Icey2k1 decribed in the installation how-to stickie.


it can be the cause of your problem or it can be something else. dealer will need you to pay for diagnostic first and then they will look into it.

 

I'll try that later with my other key. Hopefully I won't mess it up.


Thanks A LOT for helping BTW.

 

Dumb question I know, but it happened to me year ago. Have you tried reinstalling the battery cables? Meaning take them off and put them back on again. This would only happen if you unplugged the battery while installing the MAF.

 

no problem


good luck.

 

I didn't touch the positive terminal. Just unattached the negative. How is this related to the MAF?

I have the stock intake installed. When I put either of my keys in the ignition and turn it to the on position, the security light stays lit, doesn't blink. I tried using the method (in the stickies how-to with the security and what not)with the new key. It didn't work. I'm gonna get it towed to the dealership and have them run a diagnostic, my warranty plan authorized it.

I know it has nothing to do with the intake, it has to do with the security, alternator (the guy on the phone for the warranty service suggested this) or something I'm missing...

 

well it still could be the maf...when mine blew i couldn't start the car it would just turnover...so this may still be your problem....just don't tell the dealer you tried changing the intake this could cause warranty problems

 

The dealer called me and said that I needed to bring my spare key in to get it programmed with the computer in the. Apparently it was the security issue that was one of the possibilities. I don't know if they ran a diagnostic, hopefully they did and that's the extent of what they found. I have to wait until later today to hear from them.

 

Does anyone know how long it takes a dealer to run a diagnostic?