After months of patient waiting...my BlehmCo brake kit showed up . I must say Matt has been the MOST professional throughout our transactions. Some hiccups happened that were beyond his control and I was informed every step of the way, I never felt ONCE that something shady was going on. Truely a top notch way of doing business. I would INSTANTLY do business with him again...and I am VERY pesimistic. Trust me.

Everything arrived super packed and wrapped, which is good because the box looked like it went though WWI AND WWII. I pulled out all the wrapping (about 10 minutes worth...hehe) and laid my parts out on the table and snapped a few pic for posterity. My wife thinks I am nuts. Just shook her head and left the room. Women just dont understand..hehe.

I got reman'd Z calipers and had them powder coated silver. I did this because I live in a salty climate because the morons of my city cant drive, so they drop salt at the drop of a hat. Where as they dont look "bling bling", it looks very good and I am VERY pleased with the results. And I am hoping the P'cing will give me some longevity. Matt even painted the inside "area" of the rotors (man, they are huge!) black (nice touch) so they look good as well.

I will be doing baseline testing today of the stock brakes, as to keep Icey happy and to give us all a "basic" idea of what happens. Regardless of shaving off 2 feet or 20 feet, I was getting a "kit" of somekind because I am NOT going to continue with the brake judder. And I was not getting a kit for the "show" factor as well. I have everything in a "subdued" color as to really blend in. I will be taking a bunch of pics along the way..maybe I can work with someone in getting them on a page of somesort.

I dont have anywhere to host them, as I am cheap in that department.

 

http://www.cardomain.com

http://photos.yahoo.com

 

Went to my favorite spot to do some brake testing. I did 10 runs in about 25-30 minutes. Each run was accompanied by about a 2 minute cycle to get turned around, cool brakes and set up for next run.

1) 148 Ft (ouch)
2) 141
3) 132
4) 135
5) 127 (wow)
6) 129 (smoked something as a puff of smoke came from right front after stopping)
7) 133
8) 138
9) 137
10) 142

I used a borrowed G-tech unit. I "assumed" it was level at start with a .00 tilt and at the end of the run it was a -.01 tilt. Close enough I guess.

So I guess I am going to use these as my baseline numbers. Obviously as the brakes heated up I got some better stops, but by run 7 I believe that they were starting to overheat a bit.

Other notes:
1) Temp was between 69 - 71.
2) No direct sunlight
3) only 20 miles on a full tank of gas
4) Michelin Pilot A/S with about 11K on them. Rotated at 5K intervals.

What do y'all think...good enough for comparison?

 

Curious,
1)From what speed to a dead stop?
2)Did you seat the pads before doing the testing?
3)What pads do you go with on the front/did you stay with the original back pads?
4)What size tires do you have?

 

1) I was going from apprx. 65 to stop...device only measures from 60 - 0.
2) This is a test on my STOCK system. OEM calipers/rotors/pads. Not sure if they were "seated" correctly...doubt it.
3) Still stock...hehe
4) I have the stock 225/50/17 sized tires on the car.

Hope it helps.

 

any pics yet??

 

Yup, quite a few actually. Just no place to host them...hehe.

BTW, project is on hold until I get spacers. I test fitted them, (I have Konig Verdicts) and they DONT clear (an anticipated problem) The inside part of the spoke just glances off the words Nissan.

If I wanted the words Nissan to look like road kill, it would fit with room to spare.

Basically I am about 2 MM off from a close clearance situation. I will get 5 MM spacers and that will give me MORE than enough room to fit them.

Oh well...one more week to drool.

BTW, they looked GOOD on there. really filled up the spoke area. Looked really meaty.

 

For those of you who didn't see me post yesterday, I have pics of the BlehmCo partial kit (with OEM calipers) sitting pretty under the stock 17's...and yes, I WILL be painting the calipers (black)

All in all I agree with what Colonel said - Matt wrapped, shipped, etc. with no problems and no delay, and the parts are "as advertised"

see thread: https://maxima.org/forums/northeastern-u-s/297272-anyone-comfortable-vias-fix.html

 

Congrats!

7890

 

Glad they got you you in good shape... that box was essentially brand new when I sent it to you... the top was a bit funky where I trimmed it down, but otherwise no corners mashed or torn or anything..

good thing it was insured!

I was afraid the wheels would be close.. those calipers are huuuge. Let me know how everything turns out when you get the spacers on there..

 

I received my kit a couple weeks ago, and while I won't be doing the install for another month or so, I did inquire Matt about a few details of the install, and he has been VERY informative and professional about it. Definitely top notch customer service

 

Yeah, I unwrapped the calipers and went "HOLY ****, these are HUGE!!!"

Hey, the wheels were a gamble...I bought the spacers today, so no huge loss. Its not like we didnt discuss how close it was going to be.

The box was barely in tact when I got it. And since I worked on a RPS'S unloading dock, and UPS's unloading dock...I KNOW what that box went through. How you wrapped them was perfect.

I just have to wait for my spacers to show up...and speed up the search for new wheels....

 

Yup yup.. I spent 3 years working at UPS.. spent a year loading trucks, a year moving all the 70+lb stuff, and a year managing all the air shipments out of Tulsa... I know very well what those boxes go through (especially the 60+lb ones!!!) lots and lots of bubble wrap on the calipers!

 

Matt, I hope to see mine soon?

 

I'd nominate matt for "new maxima mod of the year" honors if there was an awards show for these things. Also, one of my local nissan techs has several maximas so I plan on showing him your kit....so maybe some extra business for you.

 

Lumbee, I'm STILL waiting on the neighbors to get home... I ordered more nuts/bolts right befor eI left town, so I asked the neighbs to pick up any packages at my door... UPS shows the stuff to have been delivered, but my neighbs decided to leave town the day before I got back.
haven't seen them since, but they should be back tonight sometime.. as soon as I get the bolts here, I'll have it ready to go. all the other stuff is packed and ready- I just need to toss the bolts in the box and it'll be on its way.


Irish44j, thanks for the props! I just know how frustrating it is for people to warp brakes almost instantly with a car that's supposed to be performance-oriented. honestly they shouldn't be warping, as the 3rd and 4th gens aren't much smaller than the 5th gens, yet the brakes are considerably smaller and don't have warpage problems. weird. maybe it's a bias and pad compound issue, I dunno.. but the larger rotors should help out with it since the extra steel should be able to take more stress than the stock 5th gen rotors.

 

Colonel, I know you are going to want to stomp on you brakes as soon as you get them on, but remember your pads need breakin time.

Just my .02

 

Yeah, I know...I have been reading up on proper pad "bedding" and most "theories" have graduated stops (without full stopping) starting from 35 to 55 and a couple from 65 with increased pressure and several minute cool down periods in between.

Anybody that has good links to proper pad bedding will be appreciated. I want to do this right the first time. There was a real good one that I cant find (computer HD crashed, complete data loss) and it went through a very specific method and WHY you do it. It was the same page that explained that the rotors themselves are not "warped" but act that way due to pad material being left behind on the rotor surface.

 

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

you mean that one?


bedding the pads and rotors are completely different, depending on the type of pads (and rotors).. I'd suggest to just drive easily on them for the first few hundred miles until the rotors have sufficient heat cycling on them, THEN get them nice and hot to bed the pads. you don't want to get the rotors too hot too soon, otherwise they'll warp- even these massive suckers.

 

YES!...thats the one! [clicks bookmark]

Thanks!

BTW, I am putting ceramic pads on for now. Since I have to tear the whole system apart, that seems to be the way to go for a "long term" type solution.

At least thats my thinking for now.

 

Hmmmmn...so it doesn't matter what speed you're going when you hit the brakes per Gtech?

Looking forward to your pics(host them on www.cardomain.com) and DEFINITELY interested in seeing how the stopping distance changes.

BTW, get some 0-60 and 1/4-times before you return it for comparison to mine.

 

Very nice, I might just get these before I get Powerslot and pads.

 

I did do some 0-60's. Best I could do was a 6.5. Averaged about 6.7 - 6.8.

Yeah...measurement only happens from 60 - 0. If you wait to long..I have found that it thinks you are doing 1/4 mile times. DOH! I did try a few 70 - 0 but timing only showed up at the 60 MPH mark.

Got my spacers and they did include the wheels studs...just waiting on the pads. Decided since Matt and I didnt know exactly who or what kind of pad came on the rebuilts...I would just go get a set and match them up. Got a full set from DaveB....that and a MAF.

 

How much were the pads? Just ordered me some Hawk HPS, but of course you could run generic POS pads and still stop 10x better. I'd have gone with Raybestos QS, if I were you.

MAF?!?!? What now?

 

Yeah, but I had a long chat with Dave and this, for now, is what we came up with. Plus I found out that my car (01 built in 00) "might" or "might not" have the new pads (different plate for mounting). SO Dave made an executive decision for me. I still might have to return them. Nissan computer could not determine which side of the cut off I was

The MAF on the other hand, is a "precautionary" measure as I am having wierd operation of the motor till its warmed up. Again based on discussion with Dave, first and foremost culprit is the MAF...followed by coolant sensor and then coils.

Plus Dave dispersed a myth that has been perpetuated on the internet.

For the Maxima there is NOT a separate sensor available. It is sold as the updated WHOLE MAF assembly. Tube and all. Other "separate" sensors "POSSIBLY" could work...but its a gamble and has not been proved solid one way or the other. So when you order that number in the FAQ from Dave, its the whole assembly and very easy plug and play.

Plus Dave is hypothisizing a possible increase in MAF pricing Nothing factual...just trending the data...so since I was ordering..I threw one on for good measure...I was going to get colored mudflaps...but this seemed a much better idea.

 

I keep a spare MAF in my trunk, just in case!

 

I have to see some pics of your powdercoated calipers. I just got my 300z calipers and need to repaint them. If the powdercoating looks as good as I have heard it looks, I will just go ahead and get them powdercoated. How durable is a powdercoat finish on calipers? Would I have to rebuild my calipers after they are powdercoated?

 

btt... I want to see some powdercoated 300zx calipers.

 

How about these, both on my car. Mine are two stage powder coat, candy cherry. Has a silver base coat, and two candy top coats. Lot more expensive, but definately show quality. You have to completely disassemble the calipers to powder coat them, so you have to rebuild. But 300's are VERY simple to rebuild. The pictures do not do these justice. Perfectly smooth, flawless finish, brake fluid do not hurt them, and very durable.

 

Hey Matt93SE, it looks like you made a mistake. I asked for 2k4 rotors and brackets. It looks like you sent me a set of GIANT heavy turkey platters. Way to big to be rotors

 

yeah no kidding! 2k vs 2k4 and my blehmco setup

 

LOL. The 2k4's are just a little bit bigger than the stock 2000's. Here's a pic comparing the two. Turkey platters, pretty good.

 

Here is a couple:

Remember, I did not do this for the "bling" factor. I did this to protect the calipers from the elements and make them easy to maintain. I personally think they look really good, but I think others will think they look bland.

 

AWESOME~! Matt

VERY very nice looking/quality kit.

Show me the NUMBERS!

I like the silver powdercoat, wonder if they got white.

 

Yeah...the look SWEET.

What numbers? I have the baselines down/done already...kits not on yet...waiting on pads to show up.

And I need a good pic for the SS line at the strut bracket and the top along the fender to verify placement of the line. I am looking at the SS line and not sure how it all fits together at the top..farthest away from the caliper.

It goes on jackstands tonight (hopefully) for primary disassembly and stud install. I should be done by wedns or thurs. Since DLST showed up...hoping to take advatage of a little more time....

Anyway to resize those pics? They are from Matts webby and am annoying myself on the hugeness of them.

 

Started the tear down yesterday and believe it or not everything went very smoothly...so Murphy will strike later I guess.

I

1) Loosened all lug nuts
2) jacked up car and put on 4 jack stands
3) removed wheels and set aside
4) working from front driver side, removed caliper and hung from shock
5) removed rotor and studs
6) installed new studs using my H&K studs from my spacer kit
7) Mounted new bracket
8) temp mounting of rotor and spacer (to verify fit and get it out of my basement because my wife is getting upset)
9) Redid steps 4-8 on passenger side
10) verified orientation of front SS lines and removed "clips" from existing lines. Someone said this was hard, but I had no trouble what-so-ever.
11) verified orientation of rear SS lines and removed clips.
12) installed the SS lines on the new calipers

So far tools I have needed are:
1) breaker bar
2) 13/16 DEEP socket for my lugs.
3) 22 MM Socket for the new bracket bolts/screws (I used a socket and closed end wrench)
4) 19 MM socket to remove the existing calipers
5) Blade screwdriver and 2# sledge to pop off brake line clips. Also used 2# sledge to loosen the 19MM original caliper bolts AND to loosen the rotor.
6) I used existing lug (reversed) to seat the new studs.
7) 13 MM open end wrench to seat the new SS line on the new caliper.

I wont be doing anything tonight as its my anniversary, but tomorrow I am hoping to get my pads and finish the task. I think the most time spent will be bleeding the brakes.

Questions:
1) Can you reuse the "banjo" bolt for the rear calipers? Or should I get a new one?
2) ESM torque specs for the 19MM bolts is 107ft/lbs-127ft/lbs...think this is enough for the new bracket screws.
3) I did not get a claw flange wrench...so I cant measure the torque...hand snug should be appropriate? If I can recall its like 17-24 ft/lbs.

 

I think you can reuse the banjo bolt, but you should replace the copper gaskets... (I've reused them before, but in principle you should always replace them)

My SS brake hose kit came with all new copper gaskets.

 

I think the silver powdercoat looks GREAT! That is what I would get. The only thing I will do differently is to sand down only the "NISSAN" and paint it red... I have to have a little bling

 

Well, I am thinking of masking it off and painting the top of the word Nissan black. I dont want to sand and risk "cracking" the powdercoating.

 

Very nice. I am jealous! Where did you get the kit and how much did it set you back? My stocks are warped and Im lookin to upgrade if the price is right!!!!