00GLE

I'm in the process of getting things together to swap out all of the rotors for Raybestos rotors and ceramic brake pads. (Front rotors are on order).

Has there been any sort of need for a 'how-to' on this? I can take pictures and do a little write up as I go.

If someone has already done one, I don't want to re-invent the wheel. I've done brakes and rotors on all of my other vehicles, and have heard that maximas are one of the easiest to do, so there may not even be a need for one.

Just wanted to see if I can make a contribution. I'm still a maxima newbie, but I'm jumping in with both feet.

scopium

just a fyi .. the rear raybestos brake pads wont fit the rear brakes of the maxima... i dont know why..but it wont fit.

Colonel

DaveB informed me that around 01, they changed the design of the backplate on the rear calipers. So if you have an 01, depending on the BUILD date of the care you might need to get the pads from 00.

Best way to do it is to pull one caliper/pads and see if it has regtangle ears on the pad...if so you need the 00 pads...otherwise if its a smoother ear (no rectagle top) you need the 01 pads.

I have an 01 built in late 00 and it needed the old pads.

Good luck!

Stringman8

There is a how-to that is done on a 4th gen, and just the front. I would love to see a how-to on both front and back....and on a 5th gen! Do it, someone will need it.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

damn, I just did my rears this weekend, didn't think of a writeup... I always thought *somebody* had one already written up.

00GLE

Well, I'm hoping all of my parts will fit. If they don't, I'll just return them.

I'll probably start with the rears just because of the possiblility that they MIGHT not fit. Mine's a 2000, so I don't know if you're only talking about '01s.

I'll go ahead and take pics and what-not and possibly do a writeup.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I had Raybestos QuietStop ceramics all around on my 2000 and they fit perfectly. Just be sure that when you turn the rear caliper piston (gotta rotate the piston clockwise and push in gently at the same time to get the piston to return into its bore), you leave it with one of the "notches" pointed to (what would be, if the caliper was installed) the center of the wheel... you'll notice on the inner face of the caliper there's a little raised rectangle, almost like a "key" -- make sure the notch lines up with that. This will ensure that the caliper piston engages the center tab on the inner brake pad. If it does not, your rear brakes will wear funny and probably become weak over time.

I use needle-nose pliers to turn the piston, but you can rent/buy a special tool to do it as well. Good luck.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

After hearing that...YES do a writeup please.

Colonel

But I knew about this in advance...good to put it to paper spirilis!

ALSO, make sure to REMOVE the parking brake cable from the caliper (if you are removing the caliper for rotor turndown). It makes putting/aligning up the caliper pin bolt WAY easier. WAY easier. Trust me here too...

If anybody has questions, lemme know. Its descibed in the brake section of the ESM Alex...very clear. If you read that brake section...this will all seem elementary.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

As far as not lining up the caliper piston notch, I've done it to mine twice already without lining up the notch This time (w/ Axxis Metal Masters) I got it right

I would even suggest it can accelerate the warpage of the front rotors, since the rear brakes lose effectiveness under this scenario... therefore the fronts have to do even more work.

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

I do NOT have access to the search function
and need to change my rear rotor and pads (got the drilled ones from Stillen) what do I need to do to change the rotors ... Please help

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Remove the caliper and the pad mounting bracket. The rotors should either fall off, or you'll need some bolts of a specific size (can't remember which) to thread into a couple holes that are pre-drilled in the rotor (you'll see them). That's only if the rotor's seized to the hub.

Colonel

Mine didnt have those fun-happy-make-it-easy release screw holes...Had to bang on my rotor to make them release from the hub.

Caliper mounting bracket is like 2 18 or 17MM screw farther back from the caliper pin bolts. I recommend pulling the caliper pin bolts, removing the caliper first. That way you can hanger it out of the way. Pin bolts are like 13 MM bolts. Make sure the PB is disengange and remove the PB cable from the caliper. Make aligning the pin bolts back up much easier.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Huh, that's interesting. I had 1 front and 1 rear stuck when I did mine; I ended up using a bearing puller from Autozone with some bolts from a steering wheel puller I also bought from Autozone previously... with a little effort I was able to remove the stuck rotors. Then later someone posts that you can just insert the bolts in those holes, tighten them down and they will un-seize the rotors as you tighten... I felt a little dumb after that
So the center of your rotors only have the 5 wheel stud holes, no other small holes?

Colonel

5 stud holes...1 center hub hole...thats it

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

How do I remove the parking brake from the rear caliper??

Is it the same on both sides???

Thanks for everyones help

Thanks

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

If you are hard on your brakes, stay away from ceramic pads. They don't work as well as say a semi-metallic, or a carbon pad. The only benefit of a ceramic pad is it's supposed to be quietier and dust less.

Colonel

Its the PB cable that you are removing. Yes, its the same on both sides.

If you look on how its assembled, you press (palm of hand) on the top part of the spring assembly (kinda a lever system part) where the PBC attached towards the front of the car and wiggle the PBC off. If you cant get enough slag to wiggle it off you can remove the bolt on the suspension rail to get more slag/tug room.

2000 and 2001 are built a bit different. The ESM showed a braket that was not on my rear calipers.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I just put Axxis Metal Masters on my rear, and had my front rotors turned recently... I'm really noticing how horrible the Raybestos QuietStop pads in the front fade with anything remotely resembling "hard braking". Previously it was a bit hard for me to notice since the rotors were warped (and I couldn't determine perceived brake fade with the distraction of a vibrating steering wheel), but it's very noticeable now. I also notice how my rear brakes appear to function better after a few hard stops, which improves my overall perception of the brakes, but I just can't wait to get the BlehmCo BBK w/ Axxis Metal Masters in the front installed...

Colonel

You are going to LOVE it. Trust me. I am hoping to get out and do my "testing" next weekend. Should give it a some good time to heat cycle so I can do the bedding in.

I "snuck" a few quick ones in. Firm pedal (I bled a second time and KEPT the firm pedal) and positive feedback. My pedal is now FIRMER than stock, which makes me VERY happy. VERY happy. That was my one worry. I used ATE super blue.

I did get ceramic (OEM) so when I do my testing I should be able to determine fade compared to the 2K1 OEM. When I did my baseline testing, after about 6 60- 0 test...they faded.

00GLE

Well, I already bought the ceramic ones, but fortunately haven't put them on yet and still have the receipt.

So, should I return the pads and swap them for semi-metallic when I go to pick up the rotors? I live in Orange County, so I do some freeway and stop & go driving and if I take tha back way to work, some up/down hill driving.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I'd say it's a worthwhile effort. I'm convinced Nissan didn't intend these cars' OEM brakes for us hard-braking commuters, else they'd have used bigger rotors as well as semi-metallic pads...

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

00GLE,

That's good that you live in OC. Take those ceramics back and then take yourself to an Autozone and get some Performance Friction Pads. They are the best pads that your money can buy. In addition, Autozone will give you a lifetime warranty on the pads unlike any lifetime warranty that you have ever seen. Most places give you a lifetime warranty for the life of the pad. When the pads life is over, the warranty is over. You must buy new pads.

Not with Autozone. They will replace your pads for the rest of your life as long as you don't wear them down to the rivets. I called Performance Friction and asked them how Autozone could do this with their pads and they told me that Autozone is doing it to get your business. They feel that giving away a free set of pads every once in a while is worth it to keep customers.

Go look at Performance Frictions web site and you can see for yourself that these pads kick ***. I had the rest, now I feel as though I have the best. Besides the pads are like $30.00 for the fronts. I switch between the carbon and the Z-rated pads. Autozone only sells the Carbon pads. They are perfect for aggressive street driving.

schmatt

Be careful about those lifetime warranty pads. Typically, they give you a lifetime warranty, because the pads are so hard that they wear out the rotors first. So you end up replacing the rotors instead.

Mom's2kGLE

Just did my brakes front and rear rotors and pads, went with Brembo blanks and semi metalis in rear and Bendix IQ for the front. Pretty simple job due to the forum and a haynes manual. Trickiest thing was lining up the rear pin on caliper and getting rotors off. I found screw to use in the holes and coated the axle with pb blaster then used anti sieze on everthing(the hub and all assembly bolts). I will say the Bendix seem quite nice so far. No more shuddering and no fade.

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Not with Performance Friction. http://www.performancefriction.com

". . .(the) first step is to updgrade the brake pads from the organic or semi-metallic original equipment material to Carbon Metallic® pads. Performance Friction. . .sells Carbon Metallic® pads for a variety of cars... we found that these less compressible pads improved initial bite and reduced by nearly a half-inch the pedal travel required to achieve a given deceleration rate. Stopping distances were improved. . ."

- Car and Driver

". . . the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic® brake pads were one of the favorite changes to the truck. At over 92% of the maximum load for the T-100 truck, it handled and stopped like a sports car."

- Field and Stream

"With new stock pads, this Syclone's 60-0 braking times averaged 133 feet. The Performance Friction pads improved this to 121 feet, a constistent 12 foot decrease even after multiple stops."

- Car Craft

"After some very hard use, we don't get any brake squeal or chattering - just quick, sure stops. Compared to the GM metallic pads we replaced, there is no similarity in pedal feel and stopping power. Now, after about 2000 miles, we haven't seen any increase in brake dust over the stock, and it comes off easily with water."

- Corvette Fever

"Milner does recommend Performance Friction on the M3 BMW. The car is easy to manage and the brakes are phenominal. You can get on them hard and they'll bring you down quick."

- European Car

"the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads on a '67 Chevy Camaro. The pads are 'bedded' from the factory, so you don't have to drive around with the brake pedal depressed to get heat in the pads to make sure the don't glaze up from initial use. Just install them and enjoy the improved braking."

- Hot Rod

00GLE

Well, I did them this weekend. I haven't done the writeup yet, but I took pictures of the steps I took.

Only problem is, I've done brake pads myself for so long, I left some out, i.e. removing brake fluid resevoir cap, compressing front cylinder, etc...

Here are the pics... the writeup will come someday when I get the chance... Meanwhile if anybody has any questions, feel free to ask me since it's still fresh in my mind.

http://www.westcoastforums.com/~mali...php?dir=brakes

Oh, also, the rear e-brake cable was kind of a punk-*** to remove. I ended up just removing the bracket and figuring it out myself. I also included a pic of the notches in the rear cylinder and how they're supposed to be (or relatively close).

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

Great Pic Thanks!!! I'm going to tackle this next week

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

DAMN!!! No one told me about the damn Caliper tool to turn the rear piston
was out there for an hour trying to C clamp the dang thing and would not compress
My neighbor gave me the tool after I gave up and started on the fronts
Will try this again tommorow ... if my back lets me

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

Turn it clockwise or counter clockwise???

and then i can compress with c clamp???


please help
Thanks

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

Please help

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

please help I need an answer Please

Colonel

Turn it clockwise to compress it, counterclock wise to pull it out of the sleeve. You do NOT use a c-clamp...EVER! You will damage the piston and groove system and probably end up with a frozen caliper somewhere along the line.

I just used a pair of needle nose pliers and it all worked out fine.

Yes, both rear calipers are the same and dont forget to re-install the shims on the pads.

00GLE

Well, it's been about 2 weeks or so since I did this, and I'm getting a high-pitched squeaking noise from the front brakes.

I put anti-squeal on every contact point I could find, and yet I'm still getting a high pitched squeal when I brake if I'm going faster than 30mph. The squeak doesn't occur first thing in the morning, when the brakes are the coolest and it's been sitting for hours, or when the brakes heat up from downhill braking. Only during normal braking conditions.

I put brand new rotors and semi-metallics on it. I was told everything from "it's the metal in the semi-metallics, it will never go away" (which I don't believe because I've had semi-metallics on all of my vehicles) to "it will do it until they are seated... up to 500 miles +/-".

I didn't bleed the brakes when I replaced the pads/rotors, even though I wish I had. (Didn't have anybody to push the brake pedal for me). I doubt this would cause any of it, but you never know.

Colonel

Did you make sure to re-install the shims on the front? Bleeding, while should be done (assuming that you have a 00 and its not been done before), will not be the cause of the squeeling.

I have also heard semi-mtallic "talk" more...but like you said...I also have had them before not heard a peep.

My gamble is that the shims are missing....I did a 300Z conversion and got some squeeling on slow stops. I put the shims on and presto...problem solved.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I have no shims on any of mine, and no squealing whatsoever. I use the CRC brake grease (red stuff, bought it from NAPA).

I have noticed my rear Axxis Metal Masters do ... "talk" more. It's a faint whistling noise that lowers in pitch as you slow down. You only hear it with the brakes applied. It's gotten better as the pads have worn in though.
One thing I noticed about the Axxis MM is they do indeed tear up the rotors. Those rotors have some pretty nice grooves in them. Oh well, I'd rather see shiny grooves in the rotors than black streaks of pad material like the fronts. The Raybestos QuietStop pads on the front polished off the pattern from the die grinder used when they cut the front rotors, leaving the typical concentric rings with some black streaks. The rear rotors still have some of the pattern from the grinder, but with a few concentric circles.

I can't imagine the 2k4 rotors with Axxis/PBR Metal Masters. That's gonna sound cool as hell

00GLE

No, I didn't reinstall the shims. I thought the adhesive-backed ones that came with the pads would be enough. Guess I was wrong?

I think I was smart and saved them, I'll have to go down to the garage and check. I'll install them (if I still have them) and see if it does the trick.

If per chance I DID accidentally throw them away... where can I get new ones? I noticed that the ones that were on my old pads were 2-pc and clamped on... no adhesive.

00MaxSE

iTrader: (25)

I did my rear brakes 2 weeks ago. I used the Raybestos QuietStop Ceramics and they fit perfectly.
I didn't know about the notches in the rear and how they have to lined up. I hope I didn't mess something up because the car seems to stop great.
I also used the self adhesive shims that came with the pads and I threw out the OEM shims. My brakes don't squeal at all.


Should I pull my rear brakes again and check the notches?

Thanks,
Jason

00MaxSE

iTrader: (25)

Bump 56789

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Jack up the rear and reinstall the calipers, this time with the notch lined up. Just do it. The rear brakes will work fine, but over time the pads will wear funny and the rear brakes' performance will decrease. This will increase the likelihood of warping the front rotors, and make your parking brake perform rather weakly.

This is how I got caught--I didn't notice a problem, until a few months later when I had to pull apart the rear brakes to resolve a sticking parking brake cable, and discovered that the pads were wearing funny.