Thoughts On K&N Filters
#2
It would be cheaper to buy an Amsoil foam filter. Great airflow, great dirt stopping ability and it can also be reused. Your not going to see any performance increase with either of these filters and the K&N blows when it comes to stopping dirt.
#3
Originally Posted by Virus
It would be cheaper to buy an Amsoil foam filter. Great airflow, great dirt stopping ability and it can also be reused. Your not going to see any performance increase with either of these filters and the K&N blows when it comes to stopping dirt.
I have been running a K&N in my Max and my 4runner for days with out issue, just dont over-oil them. Easy to clean and the consesus is that it cleans rather well.... I just bought a Berk intake with a K&N filter, need to sell my drop in K&N from my stock Max airbox. Its only 2 months old, I will sell it for $25 shipped. email me apeterson@willdan.com
#4
I say it's very good. On a demonstation on TV, they used an OEM filter and sucked in air and used a ping pong ball to see how much air would would push it up with the restriction of the filter.
The OEM filter did a good job filtering but the ball was just up by too much air leaving it only about 1/5 of the way.
The K&N made the ball rise to the top like there wasn't a filter at all. So, the K&N is very good. More air comes in and the air is filtered very well too.
The OEM filter did a good job filtering but the ball was just up by too much air leaving it only about 1/5 of the way.
The K&N made the ball rise to the top like there wasn't a filter at all. So, the K&N is very good. More air comes in and the air is filtered very well too.
#6
Originally Posted by Virus
The K&N will allow more air flow, but many tests have shown they let alot more dirt through also. You will notice that they use a different industry standard test to show better filtration results.
I don't know about you folks, but my K&N drop-in looks brand new from the backside. This tells me that it is filtering pretty well. One side looks filthy and the other looks brand new. I think that if it didn't filter the dirt very well, both sides would show some signs of dirt.
#7
Originally Posted by Edward Lee
I don't know about you folks, but my K&N drop-in looks brand new from the backside. This tells me that it is filtering pretty well. One side looks filthy and the other looks brand new. I think that if it didn't filter the dirt very well, both sides would show some signs of dirt.
but how often do you guys clean it ??? i clean mine about once every 5-6months
Nick.
#8
I've used K&N filters for every car I have had. There is definitely filtering going on (good filtering) because as the previous poster noted one side is filthy and the other side (backside) is clean. This shows me as well that it's filtering good. I haven't had any problems with the oiling either. I use a very light coat of oil.
#10
Originally Posted by foodmanry
I've used K&N filters for every car I have had. There is definitely filtering going on (good filtering) because as the previous poster noted one side is filthy and the other side (backside) is clean. This shows me as well that it's filtering good. I haven't had any problems with the oiling either. I use a very light coat of oil.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
#11
Do you work for Amsoil? LOL
This is the second post I've seen with you posting it.
Anyway, I put a K&N in my max right after I bought it. I've put K&Ns in almost every vehicle I've owned and have had no problems. I'm not vouching for K&N, I'm just stating my experience with them.
This is the second post I've seen with you posting it.
Anyway, I put a K&N in my max right after I bought it. I've put K&Ns in almost every vehicle I've owned and have had no problems. I'm not vouching for K&N, I'm just stating my experience with them.
#12
Originally Posted by Edward Lee
I do it with every oil change!
#13
i heard the apexi actually gives the best filtration. The K&N is still good but it lets a lil debris through. There was some independent test done with a vacuum cleaner simulation, and that was the results.
Apexi came in first with almost nothing let through while K&N was 2nd and they DO let stuff through.
I saw the link posted on this forum somewhere but i dont remember where. If i someone has it please post it.
Apexi came in first with almost nothing let through while K&N was 2nd and they DO let stuff through.
I saw the link posted on this forum somewhere but i dont remember where. If i someone has it please post it.
#14
Here is the test you were referring to. These are open air intake filters however and not direct fit oem replacements. The K&N direct replacement leaves spaces for dirt to pass without having to be filtered. The Amsoil filters are actually bigger than the OEM's, but they are made of foam and you just squish them a little and they fit nice and snug. Last, but not least, I don't sell Amsoil and never will sell it. Truth be told, if someone else sells a better product, I'm gonna move to it. Loyalty to a product is not my forte.
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/
#16
All of your claims are useless unless you give oil analyses over several oil changes using the different filters, specifically focusing in on the silicon content of the oil... THAT will tell you how much "dirt" gets through, or at least how much dirt gets through that you actually CARE about.
#19
So virus, what are the benefits of the amsoil over the apexi? Do u have evidence that it does a really good job filtering? Ive been looking for a filter that is reuseable, but filters just as well as the apexi.
i havent heard much about the amsoil filters honestly, so i dont know.
i havent heard much about the amsoil filters honestly, so i dont know.
#20
For the record, I use a K&N in my stock airbox with the front scoop removed. I recently had to clean/re-oil my K&N, so I swapped in my (almost new, actually has ~4k miles on it) OEM Nissan filter.
FYI, I noticed a definite difference in overall throttle sensitivity after swapping back to the K&N. Plus the Long Term Fuel Trim values pushed a little more to the rich side after I swapped in the K&N (I never reset the ECU), so it's definitely doing SOMETHING...
FYI, I noticed a definite difference in overall throttle sensitivity after swapping back to the K&N. Plus the Long Term Fuel Trim values pushed a little more to the rich side after I swapped in the K&N (I never reset the ECU), so it's definitely doing SOMETHING...
#21
Spirilis, I do believe in your situation that the K&N is giving you better throttle response do to the fact that you have altered your stock intake tract. Amsoil's filter will do just as good regarding the throttle response and do better in filtering.
Aussie983. Apexi doesn't make a direct OEM replacement and Amsoil only makes direct OEM replacements. The Apexi filter is by far the best filter I've ever used. The Amsoil filter does a better job than the K&N at stopping dirt and it's equal in airflow. While the Amsoil filter states that it's a lifetime filter, in my experience, it will only last through 5 or so washings before the foam starts to break apart. But at 1/3 of the cost of the K&N you can replace your filter 3 times with new filter. That's roughly 225,000 miles that 3 Amsoil filters will last. Your supposed to wash them every 25k or so just like the K&N's.
Aussie983. Apexi doesn't make a direct OEM replacement and Amsoil only makes direct OEM replacements. The Apexi filter is by far the best filter I've ever used. The Amsoil filter does a better job than the K&N at stopping dirt and it's equal in airflow. While the Amsoil filter states that it's a lifetime filter, in my experience, it will only last through 5 or so washings before the foam starts to break apart. But at 1/3 of the cost of the K&N you can replace your filter 3 times with new filter. That's roughly 225,000 miles that 3 Amsoil filters will last. Your supposed to wash them every 25k or so just like the K&N's.
#23
It’s the oil that’s stopping most of the dirt on the K&N as excess oil can cause problem with some of the MAF censers, I have used both and while I can see/feel a difference with the K&N I feel more comfortable with the OEM filter,
I also have a other vehicles, Mustangs and this is not as big a problem as the MAF censer is further back and the oil does not cause a problem at least not yet, touch on wood.
Thanks, Ken
I also have a other vehicles, Mustangs and this is not as big a problem as the MAF censer is further back and the oil does not cause a problem at least not yet, touch on wood.
Thanks, Ken
#24
Originally Posted by Virus
There is scientific evidence
I can't see the dirt in my oil so my fram filter must be doing a good job?
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
#25
Originally Posted by Virus
Spirilis, I do believe in your situation that the K&N is giving you better throttle response do to the fact that you have altered your stock intake tract. Amsoil's filter will do just as good regarding the throttle response and do better in filtering.
Aussie983. Apexi doesn't make a direct OEM replacement and Amsoil only makes direct OEM replacements. The Apexi filter is by far the best filter I've ever used. The Amsoil filter does a better job than the K&N at stopping dirt and it's equal in airflow. While the Amsoil filter states that it's a lifetime filter, in my experience, it will only last through 5 or so washings before the foam starts to break apart. But at 1/3 of the cost of the K&N you can replace your filter 3 times with new filter. That's roughly 225,000 miles that 3 Amsoil filters will last. Your supposed to wash them every 25k or so just like the K&N's.
Aussie983. Apexi doesn't make a direct OEM replacement and Amsoil only makes direct OEM replacements. The Apexi filter is by far the best filter I've ever used. The Amsoil filter does a better job than the K&N at stopping dirt and it's equal in airflow. While the Amsoil filter states that it's a lifetime filter, in my experience, it will only last through 5 or so washings before the foam starts to break apart. But at 1/3 of the cost of the K&N you can replace your filter 3 times with new filter. That's roughly 225,000 miles that 3 Amsoil filters will last. Your supposed to wash them every 25k or so just like the K&N's.
Yes i know, i have the apexi on the berk. Why im asking is since the berk is a throw away filter and non reusable, id like to know what kind of filter offers similar performance/filtering capabilites and also LASTS A LOT LONGER.
#26
I use a K&N oiled cone filter on my other car, it's a Turbo. It's been on there since 1998 and about 70k miles. The intake tract after the filter has always looked clean. That includes a honeycomb before the MAF, the MAF itself, the turbo compressor, Intercooler, intercooler pipes, etc. I always check the intake pipes on this thing to make sure no loose items find their way into the turbo. Even the compressor wheel on the turbo looks all purdy, shiny, and new.
The turbo and motor now have 140k on them and everything feels like new. If this thing was letting dirt in, you'd think it would have been an issue by now, but it hasn't been.
The honeycomb before the MAF is directly behind the filter. That thing has no hint of any dust at all, let alone dirt.
I clean the filter once per year, per K&Ns instructions.
The turbo and motor now have 140k on them and everything feels like new. If this thing was letting dirt in, you'd think it would have been an issue by now, but it hasn't been.
The honeycomb before the MAF is directly behind the filter. That thing has no hint of any dust at all, let alone dirt.
I clean the filter once per year, per K&Ns instructions.
#27
Originally Posted by foodmanry
Virus...its called common sense. Now let me put it this way. If there was water coming through the filter wouldn't the other side of the filter be wet? Hmmm...I think so. Compare that to dirt. If dirt is getting through the filter would the other side of the filter be dirty as well? Because when you oil a K&N filter the CORRECT way you will have oil on the entire filter media surface. Some of he dirt that might possibly get through the filter would stick to the other side of the filter (backside) and you would see it.
![GrinNo](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/grin_no.gif)
It's generally the smaller partical sizes that you can't see that cause the most damage in the engine.
Aussie: As far as I know, no other filter is as good as the Apexi. You can vaccuum the Apexi inside and out and reuse it once. If you want a reusable filter, K&N is your only choice for a good all around filter and it's more affordable than the Apexi is.
#28
Originally Posted by spirilis
For the record, I use a K&N in my stock airbox with the front scoop removed. I recently had to clean/re-oil my K&N, so I swapped in my (almost new, actually has ~4k miles on it) OEM Nissan filter.
FYI, I noticed a definite difference in overall throttle sensitivity after swapping back to the K&N. Plus the Long Term Fuel Trim values pushed a little more to the rich side after I swapped in the K&N (I never reset the ECU), so it's definitely doing SOMETHING...
FYI, I noticed a definite difference in overall throttle sensitivity after swapping back to the K&N. Plus the Long Term Fuel Trim values pushed a little more to the rich side after I swapped in the K&N (I never reset the ECU), so it's definitely doing SOMETHING...
Hey, I'm just wondering if you remove the front scoop, wouldn't you be getting hot air from the engine into your airbox?
~limsandy
#29
Although the below is on oil, part 3 points out what I've been saying on the horrible fit of the K&N filter on our Max's for a direct OEM replacement. The filter just doesn't cover all of the gaps.
1) I feel that many people don't use 0W in their Max's prob because the owner's manual does not mention it. I think the idea behind a 0W is that it's more free-flowing at startup, lubricates faster at start up, thus less wear. The potential disadvantage is generally, the wider the viscosity spread, the greater the chance is for shearing and oil breakdown. The better synth oils appear to disprove this through more stable and sheer-proof basestocks.
2) The high lead numbers in Nissan 3.5 V-6's (VQ35DE) appear to come from bearing wear, and are quite common in this engine. I've found the Used Oil Analysis (UOA) at another website to have very helpful information interpreting UOA's. Here are some links on UOA's on VQ35DE's from that site (from Pathfinders, G35's and Maximas). One of these has information on a VQ35 with NO lead wear in their UOA.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001297
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=000154
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001063
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001181
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001413
3) Slightly to moderately elevated silicon (dirt) is often caused by K&N air filters if used. In drop in applications, they don't really fit right in Maxima's airbox, needing foam sticky things to make them fit kinda good. A tight seal is vital. As a cone, they don't the dirt out as well as paper. Some people will argue this. I and others would argue back. A big jump in silicon is prob something else.
4) I don't know about that. Several people strongly advocate the use of the Mobil 1 M-105 and its equivalents, which is much larger than the 110, yet fits some of the Maximas. Check Bill's sticky.
From reading many many UOA's, I have learned that your car is at risk of experiencing fuel in the oil from repeated short trips. Not giving your oil a chance to get really warmed up and "burning off" the fuel present there. This can cause increased wear over time. There are solutions, however; search the site above for more information.
Hope this helps!
1) I feel that many people don't use 0W in their Max's prob because the owner's manual does not mention it. I think the idea behind a 0W is that it's more free-flowing at startup, lubricates faster at start up, thus less wear. The potential disadvantage is generally, the wider the viscosity spread, the greater the chance is for shearing and oil breakdown. The better synth oils appear to disprove this through more stable and sheer-proof basestocks.
2) The high lead numbers in Nissan 3.5 V-6's (VQ35DE) appear to come from bearing wear, and are quite common in this engine. I've found the Used Oil Analysis (UOA) at another website to have very helpful information interpreting UOA's. Here are some links on UOA's on VQ35DE's from that site (from Pathfinders, G35's and Maximas). One of these has information on a VQ35 with NO lead wear in their UOA.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001297
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=000154
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001063
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001181
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi...ic;f=3;t=001413
3) Slightly to moderately elevated silicon (dirt) is often caused by K&N air filters if used. In drop in applications, they don't really fit right in Maxima's airbox, needing foam sticky things to make them fit kinda good. A tight seal is vital. As a cone, they don't the dirt out as well as paper. Some people will argue this. I and others would argue back. A big jump in silicon is prob something else.
4) I don't know about that. Several people strongly advocate the use of the Mobil 1 M-105 and its equivalents, which is much larger than the 110, yet fits some of the Maximas. Check Bill's sticky.
From reading many many UOA's, I have learned that your car is at risk of experiencing fuel in the oil from repeated short trips. Not giving your oil a chance to get really warmed up and "burning off" the fuel present there. This can cause increased wear over time. There are solutions, however; search the site above for more information.
Hope this helps!
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