str8max

iTrader: (3)

The rotor problem with the 5th gen. Max what exactly causes that?

Poor rotor design?
Soft metal?
Car needs bigger brake system?

Reason asking I was thing about getting some new rotors drilled/slotted and was wondering weather or not the new rotors will have the same problem?

thanks

scopium

the rotors are to small for the size of the car..
so.. too much pressure to stop ... you can either get a big brake kit..
or if you're gonna get new rotors i dont recommend getting cross drilled.. cause less surface to brake on.. and possible cracking

i have slotted and they are fine..
i have brembo rotors and i've had them for bout
10k now so far so good..
also depends on your braking habit..

but brembo rotors are alot better than stock rotors...
Automax_95 sells them at a really good price.. check the GD section

itdood

everybody and their mother has a different opinion. Add to your list:

not torqueing lug nuts
Driving through puddles
overheating them
not breaking them in properly

blah blah blah

There's at least 3 ways to mess up a rotor. You need to determine what is wrong with the rotor to know how to fix your problem or all you are doing is throwing crap up against the wall to see what sticks, which is what I've been doing to 1990 or so...every car I've owned since then has warped rotors.

Here are the 3 things I'm aware of that can be wrong with a rotor ("warped") and all can have different causes.

Run out (= "wobble", excessive heat / cooling, not torqueing lugs, poor design, not using a dial gauge to minimize during install)

Flatness (= truely warped, usually abused = heat poor design)

Disc thickness variation (DTV) (despots from semi - met pads, or same causes as above)

I've used lots of different rotors and 1 BBk on different cars to try and stop warping rotors in under 15 k. Never solved the problem, this is on 4 different cars now). I just recently started measuring with my dial and mics gauges and I'm seeing DTV. That leads me to think the issue is deposits from semi-met pads, mostly because I've tried everything else.

But try to find pads today without metal in them, it's impossible. Even "true" ceramic pads have 15% metal in them. Regular semi met pads are almost 50% metal!!

No wonder rotors wear so fast!

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I think of it like this--

Most pads aren't supposed to handle extremely high-heat conditions. Most stock brake systems shouldn't generate extremely high-heat conditions.
Our cars use rotors that are too small, and they heat up to rather absurd temperatures under heavy braking, especially repeated stop'n'go type braking. Stock (or similar) pads won't hold up to those conditions, thus they shed pad material onto the rotor which causes the "warpage" you feel through the steering wheel.

Some people claim to have solved the warpage problems by using better pads, e.g. Autozone's Performance Friction Carbon-Metallic. I think some people have probably solved it with a real Big Brake Kit. Some of us, including myself, are trying the BlehmCo Big Brake Kit with stock calipers and stock-sized pads. I'm doing 2k4 maxima rotors with PBR/Axxis Metal Masters in the stock size with stock calipers. At this point only time will tell how well this setup works.

str8max

iTrader: (3)

Where do you get just a big brake rotors?

kwd2kSE

http://www.mattblehm.com/

Then click on the Brakes link that is listed. Its the BlehmCo BBK that is mentioned above. I've had the 300ZX caliper kit for about 4k miles with NO issues.

I agee that all of the points listed above can cause warped rotors. But one important fact: the 2000/01 front brake rotors are 11.0" diam, the 2002/03 are 11.5". Same Gen car, same weight, but Nissan decided out of the blue that bigger rotors were needed. Maybe they discovered what most of us already knew, the front rotors were Too Small for this size car.