The NEW Fuel Filter Writeup Thread
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,235
From: New Market, MD
The NEW Fuel Filter Writeup Thread
My Fuel Filter HOWTO/Writeup from http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...el-filter.html is deprecated due to the fact that the images in the writeup no longer exist. However, I do have them hosted in another location. I am going to repost the whole HOWTO here.
Last edited by Puppetmaster; May 1, 2009 at 06:14 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,235
From: New Market, MD
Writeup, post #1.
Removing fuel pump/filter housing
Remove the 15A Fuel Pump fuse from the fusebox under the dashboard. Start the engine, wait for it to stall, then attempt to
start it 2 or 3 more times (for ~3-5 seconds of cranking each). This relieves the fuel pressure.
Remove the cover (10mm bolts, philips head screw, take your pick), disconnect electrical connector.
Using a combination of needle nose pliers (on the squeeze tabs) and gas pliers, wiggle the fuel line off the sender housing outlets. Have a rag on top or nearby in case residual pressurized fuel seeps out.
Remove all 6 screws circled. They may be tight, and they do have a hex head, so use a ratchet/socket the first time.
After you remove those 6 screws, the outer bracket comes off, revealing the fuel pump housing, which is somewhat spring-loaded so it may pop out a little. Remove it VERY GENTLY, tilting it at an angle when it's mostly out to allow the fuel sender float and fuel temperature sensor to clear the hole. You do not want to damage the fuel sender arm.
Here's the open hole:
Note the arrows pointing at the black ring around the opening. That's the "O-ring", and it must be replaced, especially if it's old. This seals the fuel pump top housing against the fuel tank.
Tada!
Remove the 15A Fuel Pump fuse from the fusebox under the dashboard. Start the engine, wait for it to stall, then attempt to
start it 2 or 3 more times (for ~3-5 seconds of cranking each). This relieves the fuel pressure.
Remove the cover (10mm bolts, philips head screw, take your pick), disconnect electrical connector.
Using a combination of needle nose pliers (on the squeeze tabs) and gas pliers, wiggle the fuel line off the sender housing outlets. Have a rag on top or nearby in case residual pressurized fuel seeps out.
Remove all 6 screws circled. They may be tight, and they do have a hex head, so use a ratchet/socket the first time.
After you remove those 6 screws, the outer bracket comes off, revealing the fuel pump housing, which is somewhat spring-loaded so it may pop out a little. Remove it VERY GENTLY, tilting it at an angle when it's mostly out to allow the fuel sender float and fuel temperature sensor to clear the hole. You do not want to damage the fuel sender arm.
Here's the open hole:
Note the arrows pointing at the black ring around the opening. That's the "O-ring", and it must be replaced, especially if it's old. This seals the fuel pump top housing against the fuel tank.
Tada!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,235
From: New Market, MD
Writeup, post #2.
First thing's first.
Disconnect the fuel sending unit from the bottom fuel chamber:
There are 2 clips shown in the middle. Push them in with a screwdriver and the fuel sender/fuel temperature sensor unit should lift out:
Before removing it, though, be sure to gently pull the fuel temperature sensor's wires (blue and black) out of their clip on
the bottom chamber.
Set it to the side, and be careful of it when you're working (it doesn't fully disconnect, since its wires are soldered to the top housing)
Disconnect the fuel pump's electrical connector (using a flathead screwdriver to disengage its clip):
Do note that the inside of my fuel chamber/sender housing looks different from the normal, because I had to rig this up. These pics were taken after last night's run, where I attempted the fuel filter replacement but snapped the fuel supply connector on the underside of the top housing.. Of note is the fact that my fuel filter's outlet goes into what should be the fuel return line.
On a normal fuel pump layout, there will be a plastic hose going from the fuel return line to the outside of the bottom fuel
chamber, where it clips in. You can unclip that with a flathead screwdriver. It will make it easier to pull the bottom chamber off:
This pic is extremely blurry, but you have to disengage all 3 of those clips, plus the T-shaped clips which hold the fuel filter. The bottom chamber should come out, leaving only the fuel filter & sending unit assembly:
If you are replacing the fuel filter, be sure to disconnect the fuel filter from the top housing, either using the quick-disconnect clips (they didn't work for me) or skillfully cutting the connector so it pops off safely without damaging the fuel supply line.
Disconnect the fuel sending unit from the bottom fuel chamber:
There are 2 clips shown in the middle. Push them in with a screwdriver and the fuel sender/fuel temperature sensor unit should lift out:
Before removing it, though, be sure to gently pull the fuel temperature sensor's wires (blue and black) out of their clip on
the bottom chamber.
Set it to the side, and be careful of it when you're working (it doesn't fully disconnect, since its wires are soldered to the top housing)
Disconnect the fuel pump's electrical connector (using a flathead screwdriver to disengage its clip):
Do note that the inside of my fuel chamber/sender housing looks different from the normal, because I had to rig this up. These pics were taken after last night's run, where I attempted the fuel filter replacement but snapped the fuel supply connector on the underside of the top housing.. Of note is the fact that my fuel filter's outlet goes into what should be the fuel return line.
On a normal fuel pump layout, there will be a plastic hose going from the fuel return line to the outside of the bottom fuel
chamber, where it clips in. You can unclip that with a flathead screwdriver. It will make it easier to pull the bottom chamber off:
This pic is extremely blurry, but you have to disengage all 3 of those clips, plus the T-shaped clips which hold the fuel filter. The bottom chamber should come out, leaving only the fuel filter & sending unit assembly:
If you are replacing the fuel filter, be sure to disconnect the fuel filter from the top housing, either using the quick-disconnect clips (they didn't work for me) or skillfully cutting the connector so it pops off safely without damaging the fuel supply line.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,235
From: New Market, MD
Writeup, post #3.
Anyway, to remove the fuel pump from the filter...
Disengage these 2 clips, and slide that bottom bracket off.
There is a rubber cushion just inside there. Pull that out with a flathead screwdriver.
Pry the fuel pump out. I used a flathead screwdriver wedged in near the electrical connector to pry it out.
You will notice that there is a rubber grommet around the fuel pump's outlet:
If this is stuck inside the old fuel filter, pull it out gently with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Put this grommet inside the new fuel filter, using the butt-end of a screwdriver to push it in if necessary. Take note that
there are some notches in the bottom... they need to be facing towards the electrical connector in such a way that the electrical connector clears them.
Put a thin layer of silicone dielectric tuneup grease on the outside of the outlet, taking GREAT CARE not to get any on the inside (wipe it out thoroughly if you do get some in there).
This is to make the fuel pump slide easier into the grommet. I spent upwards of 1 hour trying to get the fuel pump into the
grommet before giving up (and finally coming up with this idea
)
Put the fuel pump into the new fuel filter, aligning the outlet with the hole in the grommet. Push it ALL the way in. The grease should make it slide easily.
Reinstall the rubber cushion at the bottom, reinstall the bottom clip.
Disengage these 2 clips, and slide that bottom bracket off.
There is a rubber cushion just inside there. Pull that out with a flathead screwdriver.
Pry the fuel pump out. I used a flathead screwdriver wedged in near the electrical connector to pry it out.
You will notice that there is a rubber grommet around the fuel pump's outlet:
If this is stuck inside the old fuel filter, pull it out gently with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Put this grommet inside the new fuel filter, using the butt-end of a screwdriver to push it in if necessary. Take note that
there are some notches in the bottom... they need to be facing towards the electrical connector in such a way that the electrical connector clears them.
Put a thin layer of silicone dielectric tuneup grease on the outside of the outlet, taking GREAT CARE not to get any on the inside (wipe it out thoroughly if you do get some in there).
This is to make the fuel pump slide easier into the grommet. I spent upwards of 1 hour trying to get the fuel pump into the
grommet before giving up (and finally coming up with this idea
)Put the fuel pump into the new fuel filter, aligning the outlet with the hole in the grommet. Push it ALL the way in. The grease should make it slide easily.
Reinstall the rubber cushion at the bottom, reinstall the bottom clip.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,235
From: New Market, MD
Writeup, post #4.
Installation (didn't take pics for this, unfortunately):
DO NOT CONNECT THE FUEL FILTER TO THE FUEL SUPPLY LINE YET!!
Put the fuel filter inside the bottom chamber FIRST, and make sure it lines up properly, and the T-clips engage.
The bottom chamber has 2 holes at the sides with springs inside. Make sure the springs are in there. Lower the top housing
onto the bottom chamber, lining everything up, until the 3 clips engage. I always had trouble with one of the clips not fully engaging, where the bottom chamber almost bends outward a bit. In fact, it was due to this that I broke the fuel supply line. I kept pulling it out with the fuel filter connected, and I stressed it enough that the fuel supply line snapped. Whoops
So as long as 2 of the clips are snug, and you can push the top housing down on the springs and it comes back up straight, it's fine.
Connect the fuel filter to the fuel supply line. Make sure it's up on there tight.
Connect the fuel pump's electrical connector.
Clip the fuel return hose back to its resting place in the bottom chamber.
Push the fuel sender/fuel temperature sensor unit back onto its clips. Push the fuel temperature sensor's wires back into their little clip on the bottom chamber.
At this point, the fuel pump assembly should be fully assembled and ready for installation.
Replace the O-ring around the fuel tank opening.
Gently lower the fuel pump assembly into the tank, in the same general orientation as it came out. Be cautious with the fuel sender/temperature sensor arms.
You will notice that the fuel pump doesn't appear to be completely installed, since the top housing sits a little above. That's because the top housing/bottom chamber is spring-loaded. Put the black colored ring around the fuel pump housing, lining it up properly, and install the 6 screws.
Reinstall the fuel lines.
Connect the top electrical connector which passes through the grey cover, but keep the cover open for diagnosis.
Reinstall the 15A Fuel Pump fuse.
Try to start the car. It might take 1 or 2 attempts until it builds up enough fuel pressure. If it doesn't start after 3 tries, then something is wrong.
If all is good, put the grey cover back on and tighten all 3 screws. Reinstall the back seat and you're done!
DO NOT CONNECT THE FUEL FILTER TO THE FUEL SUPPLY LINE YET!!
Put the fuel filter inside the bottom chamber FIRST, and make sure it lines up properly, and the T-clips engage.
The bottom chamber has 2 holes at the sides with springs inside. Make sure the springs are in there. Lower the top housing
onto the bottom chamber, lining everything up, until the 3 clips engage. I always had trouble with one of the clips not fully engaging, where the bottom chamber almost bends outward a bit. In fact, it was due to this that I broke the fuel supply line. I kept pulling it out with the fuel filter connected, and I stressed it enough that the fuel supply line snapped. Whoops
So as long as 2 of the clips are snug, and you can push the top housing down on the springs and it comes back up straight, it's fine.
Connect the fuel filter to the fuel supply line. Make sure it's up on there tight.
Connect the fuel pump's electrical connector.
Clip the fuel return hose back to its resting place in the bottom chamber.
Push the fuel sender/fuel temperature sensor unit back onto its clips. Push the fuel temperature sensor's wires back into their little clip on the bottom chamber.
At this point, the fuel pump assembly should be fully assembled and ready for installation.
Replace the O-ring around the fuel tank opening.
Gently lower the fuel pump assembly into the tank, in the same general orientation as it came out. Be cautious with the fuel sender/temperature sensor arms.
You will notice that the fuel pump doesn't appear to be completely installed, since the top housing sits a little above. That's because the top housing/bottom chamber is spring-loaded. Put the black colored ring around the fuel pump housing, lining it up properly, and install the 6 screws.
Reinstall the fuel lines.
Connect the top electrical connector which passes through the grey cover, but keep the cover open for diagnosis.
Reinstall the 15A Fuel Pump fuse.
Try to start the car. It might take 1 or 2 attempts until it builds up enough fuel pressure. If it doesn't start after 3 tries, then something is wrong.
If all is good, put the grey cover back on and tighten all 3 screws. Reinstall the back seat and you're done!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,235
From: New Market, MD
PLEASE NOTE
The fuel chamber/sending unit/etc. setup that you see in those pictures will look different from your untouched setup when you first do this job.
The reason this is so, is that my pictures are based on a fuel chamber setup which is rigged to allow the fuel system to operate with a broken fuel supply connector on the inside of the fuel sending unit, because I had previously done it and broke it. I rigged it up so the fuel supply went through the fuel return connector, and the broken fuel supply connector became the fuel return line. Likewise, I had to criss-cross the fuel lines outside too. That was difficult.
But the idea is the same. The big difference is that your fuel filter will connect to the fuel supply connector, and you will see another black hose snaking down from the fuel return connector to the outside of the bottom fuel chamber. Be very careful with EVERYTHING you do here. That black fuel return hose is necessary, because it ensures the fuel return line is submerged in fuel at all times. If it is not (which was the case when I rigged mine up after breaking it), the fuel system pressure will be relieved every time you shut off the vehicle, and you may have trouble starting the car (it will take longer than usual to start).
The fuel chamber/sending unit/etc. setup that you see in those pictures will look different from your untouched setup when you first do this job.
The reason this is so, is that my pictures are based on a fuel chamber setup which is rigged to allow the fuel system to operate with a broken fuel supply connector on the inside of the fuel sending unit, because I had previously done it and broke it. I rigged it up so the fuel supply went through the fuel return connector, and the broken fuel supply connector became the fuel return line. Likewise, I had to criss-cross the fuel lines outside too. That was difficult.
But the idea is the same. The big difference is that your fuel filter will connect to the fuel supply connector, and you will see another black hose snaking down from the fuel return connector to the outside of the bottom fuel chamber. Be very careful with EVERYTHING you do here. That black fuel return hose is necessary, because it ensures the fuel return line is submerged in fuel at all times. If it is not (which was the case when I rigged mine up after breaking it), the fuel system pressure will be relieved every time you shut off the vehicle, and you may have trouble starting the car (it will take longer than usual to start).
Took me 20 mins with a 2k2. The 2k2 system is extremely similar, one needs to use your common sense to get it done. Just step back look at it, and you'll see how it comes apart. Its not as hard as everyone moans about. Remember to buy the o-ring seal. As it does expand when removed due to the gasoline.
Old Fuddy Duddy
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by K Pazzo 6
how long do you think this will take to do (min./hrs.)?
Good Luck
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 60
Damn, wish I had seen this report before attempting to do this on my 2k.
Once the unit is out of the tank, it is NOT intuitive what to do next to get to the filter.
I finally gave up and after re-installing the unit the gas gage didn't work. I had to fiddly with the unit as the sensor arm easily gets bound up and won't float as it is supposed to. I pissed away about 3 hours just to get back where I started from. Plus my mechanic said he had never seen any make of car with an "in tank" filter fail.
So my 2 bits worth, leave it alone, who needs the agrivation.
Loved my 3rd gen car, small filter on the fire wall.
Once the unit is out of the tank, it is NOT intuitive what to do next to get to the filter.
I finally gave up and after re-installing the unit the gas gage didn't work. I had to fiddly with the unit as the sensor arm easily gets bound up and won't float as it is supposed to. I pissed away about 3 hours just to get back where I started from. Plus my mechanic said he had never seen any make of car with an "in tank" filter fail.
So my 2 bits worth, leave it alone, who needs the agrivation.
Loved my 3rd gen car, small filter on the fire wall.
Originally Posted by Mizike
At what mileage would you all suggest this maintenance is required? I just flipped 45K the other day. Awsome thread!!
this is the shiznitz. great write up, i was wondering who i would have had to pay to do this, or if i could attempt it myself without breaking sheit. thanks, and this should definately be a sticky.
anybody who is affraid to tackle this install....don't be....the install is very simple...me and my friend only use a pair of pliers to disassemble everything when we got the housing out of the fuel tank....everything is clipped on....and everything bolts right up (i.e. fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical connections)...no special tools required...just take your time....my first time it took 30 minutes....i bet my 2nd time will be 20 minutes or less....
my old fuel filter was DARK as a *****....it needed to be replaced....I only had 39k when i changed it out too...
my old fuel filter was DARK as a *****....it needed to be replaced....I only had 39k when i changed it out too...
wow, this is a pretty old thread..i would have never found it...but while it's up, it def. should be in the stickies! I'm gonna try it this summer most likely the same time i do the tranny fluid swap...great write up btw!
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 450
those who changed the fuel filter, any difference in car's performance? I went to my dealer and asked him for the fuel filter he told me they dont even sell those to customers because it doesn't have to be changed, where can i get the fuel filter then?
don't listen to the dealers...they don't know **** anyways....a fuel filter is a fuel filter no matter where its located...and trust me....when u take out your old one and compare it with your new one....you will feel like slapping nissan upside of the head...mine was definitely DARK and worn out..at 39k miles
just call up DAVEB and ask him for 16400-2y505 (2k2 fuel filter) and 22401-27N67 (O-ring)
i see that you have a 2k1....i don't know for sure if the fuel filter is the same as the 2k2s...becuz when I receieved my 2k2 filter...it doesn't look the same as spirillis'...and he has a 2k....just make sure to tell DAVEB which yr fuel filter u need becuz i think it changed a little for 2k2- up...
just call up DAVEB and ask him for 16400-2y505 (2k2 fuel filter) and 22401-27N67 (O-ring)
i see that you have a 2k1....i don't know for sure if the fuel filter is the same as the 2k2s...becuz when I receieved my 2k2 filter...it doesn't look the same as spirillis'...and he has a 2k....just make sure to tell DAVEB which yr fuel filter u need becuz i think it changed a little for 2k2- up...
i can't really say...only becuz i have other problems with my car...such as my clogged precats...so my performance is down the drain...it sucks becuz my precats got clogged up like 5 days after I did the fuel filter install.....but at least I know it's somewhat working....I just got 17.5mpg the other day...in 85 degree weather + a/c + my clogged precats....oh yeah this is all city driving too....not bad if u ask me...i'm sure if i still had my stock filter on...i'd be hittin 16.5mpg or so...i dunno 
it should improve gas mileage by a few....depending on how old your car is....most 2k maximas and up are definitely racking up plenty of miles (i've seen a few 2k's for sale upwards of 100k miles)...and i'm pretty sure they are still on their original filter....
changing the fuel filter won't be earth shattering performance gains....but comparing a worn out fuel filter and a brand new one will make u think twice about not replacing it becuz nissan said so....i mean at 40k miles that thing is already dark as heck...so imagine upwards of 80k to 100k...that thing will be BLACK as a *****....
i recommend doing it...it's not 100% necessary if u really don't care too much for the maxima...if u just use it to go grocery shopping...then it won't do you as well as someone who really cares about peace of mind....
changing the fuel filter won't be earth shattering performance gains....but comparing a worn out fuel filter and a brand new one will make u think twice about not replacing it becuz nissan said so....i mean at 40k miles that thing is already dark as heck...so imagine upwards of 80k to 100k...that thing will be BLACK as a *****....
i recommend doing it...it's not 100% necessary if u really don't care too much for the maxima...if u just use it to go grocery shopping...then it won't do you as well as someone who really cares about peace of mind....
yea my gas mileage has went to sh*t. I am getting like 290 per tank. Bout to put more air in my tires and i want to tackle this filter project within the next few weeks. Anything else i should look into for better gas mileage? no CEL, i guess i can change my air filter...
btw i'm just shy of 64k miles.
btw i'm just shy of 64k miles.
Great writeup sprillis. I read the original thread and have had the parts sitting neatly in my garage for near a year now. But I've yet to tackle this project. With 45k miles I'd say it's about time.
Originally Posted by Mizike
"just call up DAVEB and ask him for 16400-2y505 (2k2 fuel filter) and 22401-27N67 (O-ring)"....Steven88
what was the total on the parts?
what was the total on the parts?
i got both the O-ring and fuel filter for $16.75 out the door....this is from my friend at the stealership....the total u get from DAVEB will not be the same as this one.....as he will charge you for shipping...so i'd say add a few more bucks onto the total of my price...and there will be DAVEB's price
Originally Posted by igzy
I just called a near by dealership and got quoted USD $24 for filter and $10 for the O-ring...
Originally Posted by Mizike
"just call up DAVEB and ask him for 16400-2y505 (2k2 fuel filter) and 22401-27N67 (O-ring)"....Steven88
what was the total on the parts?
what was the total on the parts?
Thanks.
oops i'm totally sorry...the O ring part # is actually 17342-01A00 ....i accidently wrote down the spark plugs becuz on my receipt they are right next to each other.....so i got the parts number mixed up....once again sorry guys