irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Well, I had some time to kill the last few days so decided what the hell, lets do a hyperground setup. Worst case: nothing happens and I blow $25. Best case...well.

Anyhow, I did what I call "stage 1" because I plan to put another 3-4 wires in.
I noticed a few things upon driving quite a bit this afternoon:
- there is a NOTICEABLE increase in low-end. Feels like it did before I put my intake in. I am SURE of this, its not just mental...
- sitting in the drive-thru at McD's I noticed that the engine (with A/C on) was extremely quiet. Usually it annoys me how loud the engine is when the sound is bouncing off the drive-thru wall. but it was really alot quieter for some reason.
- revs are slightly quicker, at least it seems so.
- engine seems to run smoother at all rpms. No lag or hesitation to be found.

I can't explain the "why" but here's the "how":

I used 5 wires so far (I plan to add 3-4 more):
eh, I don't feel like explaining, so just look at this photo, with numbers at each end of wires 1 through 5. BTW the unseen end of #5 is down just behind the battery and the unseen ends of 2,3,and 4 are on the corner bolt of the engine cover (I guess that's what it is...)

I am posting the photo kind of big so you can see it....

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I never included a #2 with mine, and I included one down by the Alternator... I never did #5 (that's redundant with the battery negative cable, isn't it? or no?) but I did one way back inside the fender near the fusebox near the battery.

I may try #5 if it's something different, and #2 as well. But yeah, my engine seemed quieter and had a little more low-end.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I plan on running one to the alternator and transmission as well. the reason I did a #5 was I noticed that the battery neg. cable was kind of corroded. The #2 I saw in someone else's hyperground kit so I figured "why not"...

I saw the one inside the fender, but didn't feel like taking out the battery to get to it today. I will probably add that one as well. I was also thinking it might be good to add one to the A/C condenser...

Oh, by the way, I used 6-gauge wire from home depot. I just got white (except my #1 is black) but red and green were available too, for those who like it a little flashier. I just crimped the ends and used shrink wrap. Soldering is too much trouble!

Spirilis, where is the ground point on the alternator? Do you have a pic you could post?

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I tried using thick 4ga cable from Home Depot but it was solid conductor... I ended up using PheonixGold stranded 4ga audio power cable.

http://spirilis.net/gallery/2000-Max-misc/dsc01245 -- Right smack in the middle is the alternator ground stud.

Kiosk

where do you get the grounding kit from?

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

you can buy them for 50-125 bucks, or just make your own for under 25, and customize it a bit more. Me and spirilis made our own....

if you want to BUY one I suggest the one Matt93SE makes under his "BlehmCo" company www.mattblehm.com looks like its good quality.

but really, this is something that is very easy to make and fit yourself. really.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Ah yes, I am an idiot. How did I miss that?

Yeah solid cable would be next to impossible (and not all that pliable)...I used the ones with multiple copper wires inside (looks like about 18-20 of them in the 6ga).......pretty easy to bend and holds its shape if you need it to turn corners, etc.....

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

to add, if you're one with a system, i ran a 4awg wire directly from the battery to the alt. reason being, that's the source of your power. that 8awg is powering the rest of the car PLUS your system. if you dind't put anything, that 4 or 0awg you used to wire your system would have been a complete waste, as the source is out outputting 8awg. i have 4awg from the alt to the 2nd battery post, where i have my 0awg from there to the rear of the trunk. the only reason for using 0awg is for the incrased resistance due to length of teh wire, so going thicker would benefit.
that being said, everything else is what i did. i ran 4awg in a cycle from the battery to the alt, and then back. creates a loop. and seems to do the job. yes, notice a smoother idle.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

nice addition, polo. Good to point that out for people who have systems (I don't, unfortunately).....

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

SWEET!!
now come over and help me with one for my max

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Let's have a Hyperground party. I'm in NOVA as well and would like to try this.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

10am at soonerfan's tomorrow? he lives near a home depot! I would say come to my place, but I have no parking.....

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

you have no parking..i have no money for wire...

i didnt mean right away

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

i hear you bro...why do you think I did this cheapo mod I'm gonna be out of town the next few weekends....

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

i dont make the big civilian bucks like you.
im busy the next few weeks too
ok, enough whoring your thread. we will talk more about it later.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Just pm me when you guys are ready and I'll be there.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I bet spirilis is about to say "y'all are a bunch of post ******"

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

y'all are a bunch of post ******.

scopium

you should ground your tranny.. too

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

plan to...where is the best grounding point for the tranny - you have a pic, scopium?

PO-POMAX2K

Anyone with this done had their car in for service? Just wondering how will the Nissan Techs are to work around/with this setup? Looks like somthing I might ahve to try. Nice informative post.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Grounding the tranny is mainly for automatics... it might help the starter out on manuals, but I believe the battery ground is supposed to ground to the tranny somewhere for that...

custommaximaSE

Come on man ,just do a write-up.Please

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Once you take his grounding points and observe them, no writeup really is necessary... just cut the cable to length, strip off some insulation and crimp on some ring terminals. I don't see why a writeup is necessary

ZIPPIN

iTrader: (32)

# 5 is confusing. it's going from the battery to ???how much wire did you get?

thx

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

dba - look down behind the battery, you will see where I attached #5, it's obvious. It's just attaching to a body/frame ground point.

UPDATE: I added one more wire this morning, from the grounding point where #1 and #3 come together just to the left of the oil fill cap and then down to the alternator ground, which is right in front of the alternator and amazingly obvious also. The headlights "seem" to have gotten a little brighter, but its hard to tell.

After some driving last night and this morning, though, I also notice that under hard accelleration on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts (I have a 5sp, btw) there is definitely a little more kick - the 1-2 shift results in more of a tire "screech" than it used to and the 2-3 I actually heard a little "eek" from the tires on a hard shift too.. This reinforces my strong feeling that the hyperground's main plus is the return of the low end power I lost with the intake.....

custommmaxima - someday i'll do a write-up but it's a pretty self-explanatory thing to do, and you can use anywhere from 2 to 10+ wires...really just get some good 6 gauge, get some 6awg-1/4" stud ring terminals, some shrink wrap (or electrical tape) and find some good grounding points (there are alot of threads on this out there where you can find points that I did not use, also).......

I used abnout 20' of wire, including the two wires I still plan to install (battery to alternator and a/c condensor to ground, possibly)

scopium

i dont have a pic... but.. if you look down from your midpid section .. all the way down where the tranny is suppose to be.. you'll notice that there are one or two spaces for big bolts... thats where you ground the tranny..

i'll try to take some pics...from my friends car.. since all of my grounding wires are black

NYPD-Arnold

iTrader: (8)

Is grounding at all a risky thing to do to your car or not?

If not, then PoLo needs to hook me up and I'll pay him. Sounds like a simple mod with some pretty decent results. What'dya say PoLo? :P

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

i'm pretty sure we can work something out.

NYPD-Arnold

iTrader: (8)

Rock! Give me a few days and I'll PM you and etc. Thanks, dude.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Adding extra grounds, so long as you don't try to hook them to any +12VDC wires (haha, short circuit :-P), should be just about the least riskiest mod you can do under the hood. I doubt even the Nissan dealers would care about it, unless they are REAL first-class ****** who make a profession out of being an *******.

NYPD-Arnold

iTrader: (8)

Sounds good to me.

VMaximus02

iTrader: (1)

A suggestion for your other 3-4 wires:
1) run a wire from 1 to the alternator grounding point.
2) connect another wire from 1 to another grounding point on the engine (should be at the lower right opposite of where the #1 located ...which is at the lower left of the air scoop.
3) Then loop another wire back to the negative battery terminal.

There are grounding points for the headlight too...which should be located at the side near the lamp housing.

-Vince

custommaximaSE

That is my point.Where are those grounding points located .I know i saw his pic ,but i dont understand it .Thats why we need write-up to see these grounding points more closely.

vqman

has anyone dyno'd their car to prove this helped out with low end torque?

sorry for being the party pooper..

-vq

maseo77

iTrader: (1)

Please do a write up i will pay u to make me sum wires and install em for me. I hate messing with electrical stuff

TEEdotMAX

iTrader: (2)

some used 4gauge some used 6. what exactly is the best gauge wire to use?

scopium

there is a write up on vqpower.com i think

but your grounding points are..

the throtle body, engine, there is a ground for each headlight .. and also you can ground the tranny

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=68

nailz420

stock battery wire is 4 gauge, so is most commercial hypergrounding kits out there. do the math

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I used 6 gauge for two reasons:
1. much easier to crimp and bend to shape
2. there are already thin OEM ground wires, which are probably 10-12 gauge so combine them with the 6-gauge and......who knows.

Guys, to be honest I cannot believe how much smoother this makes the engine feel. It's like silk, really, no ****.

OK maseo, custommaxima, all the rest.
I just went out and took a bunch of pics.
I will post them on my cardomain site within the hour if you promise to go on there and make sure to hit me up with a good rating (even if you don't like my car )....

I am NOT going to do much of a write-up, but there will be enough close-up pics that you can print them out, tape them together, and figure out exactly where the wiring goes.

I really think this is easy to figure out yourself with the photos/resources already out there, but I'll put them up anyways since I know some of you really know next to nothing about cars sorry, I had to take a cheap shot in exchange for my posting pics for you....check my cardomain site in about 30 mins., on the last page. They'll be there.

For those who cannot MAKE the wires yourself (though it's simple too) i suggest you send $50 to Matt93SE for his 5-wire kit, it looks like good quality. I used 8 total wires (2 more coming) but that was just to make sure I got everything. the 5 should be fine. Matt's site is www.mattblehm.com