ok here is the story, my rotors are warped again. dealer told me to go screw myself(but gave me a free car wash, so i left a happy baby)

anyhow i have three possible option i see for myself

1.) Powerslots
2.) take stock rotors to get turned myself (again) (bandaid fix, but cheapest)
3.) other(open to suggestions)


also need to know which pads to get too

thanks guys

 

i would have it resurfaced, but if this warping has been occuring alot.. get new rotors.... some dude found some stock GLE brembo rotors for 44 bucks... check the threads.. i dont remember

 

powerslots are too expensive IMO. plus, i don't see myself using them to their utmost abilities. daily driver here.
i chose iRotors, for the ability to offer OEM replacements w/out the warping of OEM rotors. they haven' been tested, but i have them on my car and so far, no issues. only 1k, so i can't give my opinion. the pricing is fair at 109 fronts and 99 rears, which INCLUDES crossdrilled/slotted/both and a zinc plating. blanks are $20 less per pair ($40 all around). i paid 250 for fronts and rears shipped.
so far, i've had to "use" them maybe 3 or 4 times, as in high speed stopping, and it seemed to do the job rather well.

if anything, don't take this as a "get these!!" but as another fair priced option.

 

thanks Polo, yeah i know about the Irotors and will probable opt to get those, which ones did you get slotted/drilled/dimpled?

i am thinking slotted with dimples???

edit: nevermind

 

I say Irotors w/ crossdrilled and slotted...

 

where do I get ahold of these irotors? just for future reference

 

i ended up with slotted. i didn't know that dimples was an option. it was only slotted and x-drilled, which i wsn't comfortable with because i felt it drilled into the core of the rotor, which is where it's "strength" lies, ya know kinda like the center of a rock is it's strongest point. with slotted, it releases enough heat that i dont' feel i'm worried. hell, i don't even think i needed slotted, as i said it's mainly a daily driver, but hey, every litle bit helps...and it looked nice!

 

I'll never have another set of rotors turned again. Turning them simply makes them thinner, and therefore even MORE likely to warp again. Toss them er....recycle them I should say.

I hear crossdrilled is a bad idea. I plan to go with plain or slotted when the day comes.

 

get the BlehmCo kit and put the larger 12" rotors from the 2004 Maxima on your car...

link here: www.mattblehm.com

they work great.

 

that's a nice idea for 2k2 and 2k3 people, since they have 17" stocks...but for me, and a few others, we're running 16" stocks and when winter comes around, those stocks are going on the car. i do't think the blehmco kit will fit.

edit: someone offered me $500+my stock 17's for his 16's...would you say no, i don't think so!!!

secondly, some of us just wanna replace the rotors and nothing more. upgrading would be more of a waste to some people. i thank matt greatly, but for me, that application just does not seem feasible.

 

I'm with you. I run 16's in the winter, so I just want a rotor that will stand up to daily driving. Is that too much to ask! I have heard good things about frozen rotors. I'll give them a try when I replace my Stillen cross drilled (also warped).

 

polo
where did you get your 02 -03 I - rotors? On the i rotors I only see 01 max rotors for a price of the 129 two rotors.
http://www.irotors.com/products/17-4.shtml

 

Just get your rotors painted like Maxima Dave's.

 

I would go with the Powerslots. As I stated in an earlier post, I have heard drilled rotors will eventually get stress cracks around the holes. Aftermarket brakes will be better than stock, but you should base your decision of how much braking power you will actually need.

Stock = Fine
Slotted = Highly improved grip (especially when they are wet)
Drilled = Much higher grip and cooling abilities, but can get stress cracks
Slotted/Drilled = The best, but I would still be sketchy about the possibility of stress damage.

 

sorry didn't realize you were running 16s in the winter. And no, Matt's kit won't fit under them, you are correct....

but....not just the 2k2/3 guys got 17 stockers, I have them too.....though I run mine in the winter too (might get some lighter 17's for the summer).....

As to your sale...sounds like it was good for you - though the market value of used 17 stockers for our max is about $200 each (believe me, I know - had to replace a bent one) and over $400 each new!

Yeah I hear you abou the upgrading, though Matt's kit takes about 30 mins to switch in and out (I had to switch them out for dealer service once) so it's not much trouble and not very expensive (using OEM calipers).

anyhow, you are right - not feasible for your situation - so disregard my previous post

 

i see no reason to get a BBK for my MAX, as when the stock break work they work very well, so with an imporved rotor they should sto better

getting the blemho kit with the 2k4 rotor and same size caliper is like half the job, if doing that might as well get the bigger caliper

i am still thinking of getting the powerslots simply because of their track record

 

The point of the BlehmCo kit using the OEM caliper is not to give you better braking!!! It is because the larger 2k4 rotor has more mass (resulting in better heat dissipation) and is much less prone to warping than ANY of the smaller 10.4" rotors (Brembo, Frozen, OEM, etc...)/ It's all about physics, man.....

I suggested it because you wanted to know the best thing to replace your warped rotors, and I ASSUMED you wanted something that would not warp again....

The BlehmCo kit with OEM caliper is not a true BBK - a true BBK uses 2- or 4-pistion calipers to increase braking power. The kit I used with OEM calipers is for only these reasons:
1. to eliminate warping rotors (#1 reason)
2. it looks alot better
3. does not overheat as easily under heavy driving...

OEM vs. 2k4 rotors

 

yep, I want to know too...

 

fyi, bigger pistons do not necessarily translate to more braking power. In fact often times if you retain the stock master cylinder you can actually be transferring LESS braking force to the rotor. However the function is simply to disperse the braking surface area for better contact and heat dissapation which may indirectly lead to shorter stops. The primary method of getting shorter stops is simply big rotors. Bigger rotors exaggerate the mechanical leverage of the brakes by moving the contact point farther out from the hub. The added mass of the bigger rotors also contributes to better heat resistance.

 

just call up iRotors 714-713-3717. ignore the online prices. JUST call them. tell them you want to get in on the group deal created by matt blehm from maxima.org.

by default, all rotors they sell are zinc plated, so don't be worry when she doesn't say it. she told me this after i had to ask 3 times, so don't worry.

again, the options are 109F/99R for slotted/x-drilled/both.
subtract $20 from each pair ($40 total) if you want blanks. shipped will be roughly $40 (they are heavy and well, i'm in NY, so you figure out distance)

as far as long term review, i'm not complaining. that doesnt' mean they're perfect, but they seem to be working so far. i haven't had a warping issue, but it's WAY too early to tell. i've only had them for 1k miles since i hardly drive the car and my job is exactly 1.7 miles away from me, so i put at MOST 4 miles a day and then park it.
when i do hit the 5-10k mark, i'll post a review thread.

 

i still need more ideas guys


how about the frozen rotors?