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Pics of HID during warm-up and steady state

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Old Mar 31, 2001 | 02:30 PM
  #1  
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Here is a pic of HID discharge capsule "warm-up"

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...019&Sequence=0

and "steady state"

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Thumb...100&Sequence=0

This is the xenon gas discharge capsule "up-close"

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...473&Sequence=0
Old Mar 31, 2001 | 02:34 PM
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Old Mar 31, 2001 | 02:43 PM
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Thanks for your help!

Thanks for helping a newbie! I was getting frustrated trying to post my pics in HTML but finally "caught on"! I'll try your recommendation on future pics. Thanks again!

2K Max GLE-Falken V rated tires, Philips D2R HID, PIAA H3 Superwhite fogs (85W).
Old Mar 31, 2001 | 06:50 PM
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OOOooOO i think thas purdy
Old Apr 11, 2001 | 07:01 AM
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where did you buy yours from?
Old Apr 11, 2001 | 07:27 AM
  #6  
maxedout1
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how much were the lights and are they easy to install.
Old Apr 11, 2001 | 08:24 AM
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OoohOoohOooh, where did you getem'? How much were they?
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 03:36 AM
  #8  
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Picked up a set from www.xenonshop.com (Sorry, "got rice") and the kit is NOT easy to install. The kit they give has a seperate adapter plate to fit a H4 and for some reason (and I have to call them, I just got them like a hour or so ago) it won't hold the adapter and bulb at the same time.

Find out if "Got Rice" bulbs look like the ones in these pictures where the adapter plate is part of the bulb.
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 05:16 AM
  #9  
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Eww purdy blue. Bright white. Im gonna get myself the Phillips kit.
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 05:18 AM
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I don't know if it was the way I had mine "temporarly" mounted, but it went from a very bright blue, to a white to a yellow... Dunno why. I hope the bulb didn't blow. Can you blow these bulbs? No filamint(sp) right?
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 06:14 AM
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Yo_its_ok-
Sorry about that, I meant to say not "got rice" but for you for people to see on buying the kit.

It's not mounted yet. When I turned it on, the bulb was free air. Kinda surprised the glow was a yellowish tint. Almost to the point of being like regular bulbs, just brighter.

I would've gotten it from you, but as you could tell I was in a rush and another person mentioned that they were ok to trust on the net. So I went with it. Cost wise it wasn't $100 more than yours, it it was, even I would've waited till Monday and ordered it from you.

And in all fairness (as I am mentioning problems I am coming across with them) you didn't mention the light turning yellow either when selling me the kit.

I give anybody a shot, until I get this kit installed I feel I got burned in a way. I may order my next kit from you to see how good yours compairs.

btw, how much is the bulbs with the shields? They said it would nothing but cut down on left to right brightness. And until I figure out how they would mount I can't test it yet.

Does yours come with the H4 bracket as part of the bulb? it would be a good selling point as these ones don't. and makes it hard to hold the bulbs in place.

Another thing that didn't make this as easy as I thought was the wiring. Only two wires to "splice" but noplace to easily cut into. Someone should make a plug kit for the power wires that use the stock clip for the H4 bulb. that way no cutting needed.

here is a reply they sent to me, take it with a grain of salt as they are trying to sell the bulbs:

The two lamps (D2S/R) are the exact same shape and power. The only difference is that on the D2R lamp there is a small (1-2 mm) stripe of metal shielding running along both sides of the lamp. These stripes do not block any light dispersion from the top or bottom but rather are on the sides.

The stripes are there to work in conjunction with the OEM HID housings that use that shielding to produce the desired beam pattern. OEM HID housings are designed very differently then halogen housings. They are designed to
accommodate over 3000 lumens of light.

With regards to an H4 halogen conversion to HID: The current housing is designed for 900 or so lumens of light. It also uses a single lamp that has two filaments at different focal points (depths) in the housing. These
positions of the filaments in conjunction with the reflector optics give you the desired beam pattern.

HID Lamps only come with a single arc (light output source). So as you already know you can only have a single light output source. So the most important factor in the HID conversion is make sure that this arc is
positioned in the exact spot as the low beam filament to ensure you get the correct beam pattern. We supply you with an adapter plate that allows you to mount the HID lamp into the H4 halogen socket. It also has the correct
depth to ensure that the focal length is accurate.

The main thing to remember is that since you are installing 3000+ lumens into a housing designed for 900 lumens you will get some additional light diffraction. Also the high and low beam filament focal lengths are veryclose together. So when you bump up the lights power by 3+ times then some light will escape into the high beam potion of the beam. Most of the light will be in the low beam portion.

So what we recommend to people that want to make this conversion is that you adjust you beams slightly lower to compensate for the additional light.

END OF SNIP

Btw, does anybody know how to angle Maximas lamp housings?
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 07:41 AM
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yo_its_ok

I am interested in getting HID, but am not 100% on parts needed and such. I have seen the kits on xenonshop.com and it "appears" that when I buy a kit, I get two Phillips bulbs and assorted wires and ballast for each lamp. Is that how you sell your stuff? Also I would like to be able to do same thing for my driving lights as well. How much for doing all 4 lamps? Don't worry, I am bracing for impact. I am interested because I am partially night blind an am looking for all the help I can get in seeing the road.
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 11:39 AM
  #13  
Wustylez
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Re: Re: yo_its_ok

Originally posted by yo_its_ok


Colonel, The Kit consists of:
2 D2R Philips HID Burners w/ a metal base, and metal shield to correct glare.
2 Philips HID Ballasts # VQ212-L300.
2 Wiring H4 adapters w/ Inline starter.
Kit also comes with mounting hardware, and double sided tape.

As for both the headlamps and fog lamps. I highly don't recommend that you do the conversion on the fog lamps. There isn't much room for you to play with unless you get a dedicated projector fog lamp, and plug an H3 kit in there. The Hella DE projectors I had in my car w/ HID kit were brighter than my headlamps. I tried to put the H3 kit into the Maxima foglamp housing, after several attempts which never worked out, I decided not to bother, and get dedicated Halogen Driving lamps for the stock location.
Price: $490+shipping.
Email me for any other specific questions that you may have.

-Best Regards

So hey Hogan, the beam corrected burners with metal base, does that cut off the yellow color on top of the beam? and is it going to be dimmer since it blocks off some of the light output???

Also did you find out the difference between L500 and L300 ballasts you are selling?

Thanks
Tim
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 01:19 PM
  #14  
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so how much do you sell just the bulb with the mounting plates? This doesn't change the color, it just cuts off some glare, right?
I got the same kit as yours, but I guess a different power wirings and bulbs, but same ballist.

What is the inline starter? Is that the wiring that plugs into the ballist that has the power leads on it? If so, did I understand your last post that your does use the H4 clip so all I do is clip it into the H4 housing?
If that's the case, how much for a pair of those?

I guess xenonshops kit is more a generic H4 kit then they lead me to believe. While yours seems like its more of a easier replacement for the Maxima.
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 02:38 PM
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New info: I finally had a friend help me hold the bulb in place, it does glow a brighter white but the bottom half of the lens produces a yellowish tint on the TOP of the beam pattern. I think this is what Yo_its_ok is talking about by getting the bulb with the plate.

I wonder what happens if I put the bulb in upside down? will the yellow be on the ground?

But I think I know two ways to fix to fix my problem, what do you guys think?.
1) Do a backwards tape of the light (know know how people are taping the top half of the lens to give a "meaner" look to the lens? Put the tape on the bottom about a 1in to 1 1/2in will get rid of the yellow.
2) In my case, I may have to find a way to back the lens up on the spacer. it moves the yellow into the regular light, and then you don't see it. At least at close rang on a wall.

I was doing measurings at CLOSE range. This may change the farther you move out. in that case, I think my tape idea will work better. Now where can I get white tape to try...
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 03:10 PM
  #16  
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Np. That's why I was asking you how much the shielded bulbs and the connector was. I know it'll work with the ballist I have as its the same stuff you have. All they gave me was the 9004 (power and negative wires) plug and that's it. if yours comes with the 9004 adapter to a H4 so no cutting is needed, yours does seem to be a better kit.

Not that I'm looking forward to spending more money but if they can't help me, I'm willing to try other venues.

I'm not trying to argue with you on why I should've gone with you. I went with them becuase they answered my questions, had a secure web page, offered a price I liked, and supposedly had a good rep.
Yours was good becuase you answered my questions and offered a good price. But what worried me to try them first is you didn't have a secure payment, didn't take credit card, and once you had the paypal up it wouldn't take my credit. Then you asking me to send a check to you before sending the bulbs (although that does make good business practice) it worried me.

They told me everything was plug and play and this is what I got. You told me yours was too. Neither you or them had pictures of the whole kit so I had nothing to judge. It seems plug and play is different for different companies.

Anyways, so what kind of costs am I looking at if they can't help me?
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 04:13 PM
  #17  
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ok. I think I could live with the bit of yellow since 95% of it is white. Just have to wiat to figure out how to mount the bulbs now.

Do you know what adheasive I could use to glue metal to plastic? The adapter is metal and the bulb housing is plastic. i just need some way to keep the bulb from swivling and poping out. BTW, the brown bar that goes from the top of the bulb to the bottem, when inserted in the housing, is that on the bottem or the topwhen facing the headlights?
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 04:47 PM
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Hot glue, now theres an idea. Never thought about that as I fould figure the glue might melt that and I didn't know it would work on metal. But I guess the HIB makes alot less heat and should work. I'll post pictures if I ever get this completed.
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 05:19 PM
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Might as well ask you this while youre still lurking aroun here, what type of glue as I know glue sicks come in different types. I was also told to use something called jb weld.

Originally posted by yo_its_ok


HID doesn't make a lot of heat. I had to use this technique to mount my Cibie HID Burners, bright as a Stadium Light.

-I'm not kidding...
Old Apr 12, 2001 | 07:31 PM
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why

Originally posted by ScreamingVQ
html is banned from this site

Click on vB code reference on the top of the site for posting images.
Why is html banned?
Old Apr 13, 2001 | 07:34 AM
  #21  
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Well the lights are in. I used plastic epoxy. I really don't know how people get the light pattern to match. Must've taken me 3 hours just to get it to semi-match. I would say at 25-50ft you can tell the right side is perfect while the left is up about a feet too high. Still looks bright.

To any thinking of getting the HIDs. Get the bulbs with the h4 adapter mounted to the bulbs and get the ones with the relectors. I don't know how much of a difference they make but I can tell you I do see a yellowish tint around the outer edge of the beam pattern with the normal bulbs I got.

Does anybody know if you change the angle of the headlight housing? I think thats the only way I'm gonna get the beam to lower.
Old Apr 13, 2001 | 08:36 AM
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doesn't the I30 have H.I.D.S why can we just get some from them.
Old Apr 13, 2001 | 08:38 AM
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Re: why

Originally posted by MaxSEAE


Why is html banned?
because Jambo doesn't want the errors i think.
Old Apr 13, 2001 | 08:42 AM
  #24  
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The HID's look awsome!
Old Apr 13, 2001 | 02:11 PM
  #25  
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screw where? Is that the small white one almost to the bottom in teh back? Oh goody. I can fix it then.
Old Apr 13, 2001 | 05:22 PM
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Um my hand still hurts from last night. And I don't feel like playing with little nuts right now.


Originally posted by yo_its_ok


YUP~!~!~!~!~ its a 8mm "nut" ....no comment....where are the sarcastic comments
Old Apr 14, 2001 | 02:50 PM
  #27  
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hey it worked. I tried looking for another little nut to move left to right. Is there one? I can't remember the original lighting but most of the light seems to be from middle to middle right.
Old Apr 17, 2001 | 06:56 AM
  #28  
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http://www.autolamps-online.com/gasd...e/totalkit.htm

Look at this kit, this is what I THOUGHT a kit was. Notice it even has the H4 connector adapter so no wire splicing.

yo_its_ok- Is this what your kit is like? If it is, I should've gone with yours.
Old Apr 21, 2001 | 05:53 AM
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Now this is interesting. I desided to see what would happen if I "taped" up the lens to block the yellow tint of the light from shining. I needed to cover the bottem 2in. of the whole light lens. Then I took it out on thye road (2:45am, don't think my neighbors liked my garage door going up and down.)
Without tape:
Bright. With a bit of yellow (bronze color) haze on anything above window height. White light on ground. Will light up any street signs at least 3x the distance as before. Will light up the insides of the car infront of you.

With tape:
About as bright (Well maybe brighter as I haven't driven the car with the old PIAA 85watt super whites) as my old bulbs. Now it has the same cutoff pattern as before. Doesn't light up street signs. But I still can see farther infront of me.

TAPE IS UGLY. I gotta figure out how to handle this better. But being that cops would pull a car over with highlights, I figure I better not push my luck. Thinking about this, I'm amazed that the headlamps can be so much covered yet produce just as much light.
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