when i turn the key, the engine turns over just fine and the revs do the customary flare up to about 1500 rpm. but then the rpms slow down to zero and the engine dies. if i give a little bit of gas, then it's fine, engine stays lit. but otherwise, the engine dies out every time. it's never done this for the past four years, now it does it every time. any ideas???

the only thing i could think of was my dirty k&n filter, but i removed it to test it out, and it's the same thing with no filter at all. all maintenance was done with excessive-anality. plugs were replaced 15k ago and gas is always 91 octane.

 

I have the same issue but. I have asked the org's but no diect answer. Either MAF, dirty injection and TB or faulty O2 sensor, or dirty fuel filter. There are to many thing to look at.

There are other members have the same issue too. But no clear direction how to deal with it.

someone??

 

Try starting the car without the MAF plugged in to see if it still stalls that try cleaning the TB. The MAF sensor is right after the air box and has a connector on top. Disconnect it, if it doesn't stall then that's your problem.

Also is the car drivable?
Robert

 

Yes the car is driveable, startup issue more likely.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=323227


I have the same issue. I am now leaning towards an old O2 sensor since my car has 115k and the thing has never been replaced.

 

I have unplugged the MAF and try to start the car. The car started without any issue, except my SES light came on, I guess I need to reset that first or better, grab the code from Autozone. MAF plugged it back in and after a couple of start up, the issue is coming back.

So is it really MAF?

 

well i would clean out the throttle body anyway too, since after a while, a considerable amount of gunk does build up in there, and its not too difficult to do.

 

Yep, get your MAF checked out. Or just replace it altogether (which is around $80).

 

I have cleaned my TB not to long ago, less than a year should not be that bad, and MAF.. I am debating should I purchase one and install it myself (still have to reset the ECU) or should I bring it back to the dealer to work under my extended warranty from Nissan, hmmm money money. Costwise could be the same but the dealer could reject my diagnosis and ask me to pay additional diagnosis fee and at the end they say is not MAF.

 

Hot Soak Problem, I deal with the same problems on 00-01 3.2TLs at work. Its impossible to get rid of it. Acura tried diff fuel pressure regulators with no positive results. I have a new MAF, plugs, coils, cleaned injectors, cleaned TB, and I rarely ever get it even in 100 deg weather with 100% humidity.

 

are you suggesting us to replace all the related component as you have mentioned? I am worry.

 

I'm not suggesting, I repleaced mine due to my car being down on power- dyno chart showed I was missfireing at low RPMs= coils where misfireing under high load. My MAF crapped out 4 times before I'm on the 5th one right now... I dont like keeping my spark plugs in the engine for 100K miles like Nissan recomends so I repleaced them at 60K miles. My TB was just cleaned, I do BG44K injector cleaner service on my car using a special injector cleaner device that makes the car run on just the cleaner- and not the gasoline in the tank. I also did the BG intake manifold/throttle body cleaner deal. Car runs like a champ and puts down the power some automatic 3.5Ls would dream of

 

I have replaced the plug around 40k and I clean the TB myself. But I will look into using the BG44K injector cleaner and TB service, cost around $120 here at a local infiniti dealer. MAF not sure, coils not sure, also O2 sensors not sure.
I have post a poll in this forum but nobody respond to the poll. . Thank for your great info. I am not prepare to shell out more cash at the moment.