Plate Covering Auto Shifter Scratched! Ideas?
07-09-2004, 08:13 AM
#1
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Location: Medford, NJ
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Plate Covering Auto Shifter Scratched! Ideas?
My son and his friend (wearing baseball spikes) put scratches on my silver auto shiftplate on my 2003 GLE.
It went through the silver paint and into the gray plastic underneath.
Is it hard to get out and replace? Or has anyone repainted one?
thanks
Vic
It went through the silver paint and into the gray plastic underneath.
Is it hard to get out and replace? Or has anyone repainted one?
thanks
Vic
07-09-2004, 09:09 AM
#3
07-09-2004, 09:10 AM
#4
this seems harsh:
Step 1. Scratch Removal
Each scratch or run of scratches will have there own type of removal process depending on the depth of the defect. The questions to ask yourself are: Do you believe they will buff out easily? Or will they need a more aggressive approach? How do you know? Try to buff them out on a bench grinder with a cotton buffing wheel. Apply some rouge made for polishing aluminum or brass to the buffing wheel. Gently buff one or two scratches for about 15 to 30 seconds. Remember to keep the piece moving on the buffing wheel. Do not just hold the piece in one place against the wheel. Do not let the piece get hot to the touch. Now look at the scratch and see if its being removed or not. If it is, then keep going. If not, then go to the next step.
Step 2 Sanding Deep Scratches and Gouges
Start with some WD 40 oil and wet and dry sandpaper, about 220 grit. Spray the area lightly with oil and begin to sand. Your sanding process should not be limited to just the scratches. Not only are you trying to remove the scratches but you are also faring and feathering the metal so that the repair blends into the surrounding area without creating a flat spot. This is especially necessary for deep gouges Sand for only a few strokes at first following the contour of the area you are sanding. Then look at your progress. Is the scratch starting to disappear? If yes, continue on. But don't try and remove the scratch entirely with 220 grit. When the scratch is almost faded away change to 400 grit paper and keep going. Now the scratch should be hard to see. At this point go to 600 grit paper to finish removing the scratch and start the removal of the sandpaper scratches. I take mine up to 1000 grit before I'm done with the sandpaper. Wash the piece in hot water and dish soap to remove the WD 40 before proceeding.
Step 3 Buffing & Polishing
Now go back to the buffing wheel. Rouge and buff the entire piece. Check and see where you need to do more work. Keep repeating this process until you have achieved your desired luster. Remember to keep the piece moving against the buffing wheel. After the buffing is finished, try using a product called Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish (you can find this at automotive stores) or jewelers rouge which you can find in the hardware/tool section of Sears & Roebuck. This will continue the polishing and also remove the black residue left from buffing. The final step is to again wash the piece in hot soapy dish water, scrub with a brush, then towel dry.
Step 1. Scratch Removal
Each scratch or run of scratches will have there own type of removal process depending on the depth of the defect. The questions to ask yourself are: Do you believe they will buff out easily? Or will they need a more aggressive approach? How do you know? Try to buff them out on a bench grinder with a cotton buffing wheel. Apply some rouge made for polishing aluminum or brass to the buffing wheel. Gently buff one or two scratches for about 15 to 30 seconds. Remember to keep the piece moving on the buffing wheel. Do not just hold the piece in one place against the wheel. Do not let the piece get hot to the touch. Now look at the scratch and see if its being removed or not. If it is, then keep going. If not, then go to the next step.
Step 2 Sanding Deep Scratches and Gouges
Start with some WD 40 oil and wet and dry sandpaper, about 220 grit. Spray the area lightly with oil and begin to sand. Your sanding process should not be limited to just the scratches. Not only are you trying to remove the scratches but you are also faring and feathering the metal so that the repair blends into the surrounding area without creating a flat spot. This is especially necessary for deep gouges Sand for only a few strokes at first following the contour of the area you are sanding. Then look at your progress. Is the scratch starting to disappear? If yes, continue on. But don't try and remove the scratch entirely with 220 grit. When the scratch is almost faded away change to 400 grit paper and keep going. Now the scratch should be hard to see. At this point go to 600 grit paper to finish removing the scratch and start the removal of the sandpaper scratches. I take mine up to 1000 grit before I'm done with the sandpaper. Wash the piece in hot water and dish soap to remove the WD 40 before proceeding.
Step 3 Buffing & Polishing
Now go back to the buffing wheel. Rouge and buff the entire piece. Check and see where you need to do more work. Keep repeating this process until you have achieved your desired luster. Remember to keep the piece moving against the buffing wheel. After the buffing is finished, try using a product called Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish (you can find this at automotive stores) or jewelers rouge which you can find in the hardware/tool section of Sears & Roebuck. This will continue the polishing and also remove the black residue left from buffing. The final step is to again wash the piece in hot soapy dish water, scrub with a brush, then towel dry.
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