Anyone have an old post of info on fog light rewire?
I tried searching ALL forums.. thinking searching isnt working or something..
Oh yeah... installed the HKS muffler tonight.. smooth!
Thats what I call bolt on.. perfect fit!
Sounds sweet.. I'll work on some audio over the weekend.
Oh yeah... installed the HKS muffler tonight.. smooth!
Thats what I call bolt on.. perfect fit!
Sounds sweet.. I'll work on some audio over the weekend.
Here..
I forget who posted this originally but i copied it onto my computer for my own refrence...
1. Remove the one clip directly under the foglamp on the black plastic paneling underneath car. Then remove one screw to side directly between clip and tire. This same panel has 2 10mm bolts towards the center of the car. One has a screw design but comes off quicker with 10mm . Once all four are removed bend paneling back towards tire. It will slide out of the ground effects lip naturally.
2. Take the one 10mm screw/bolt out from bottom of foglight assembly. Disconnect the electrical boot at back of lamp assembly.
3. (This is the hardest part) Take a rubber mallet and pop the back of the foglight assembly once and it will pop out towards front of the car. Keep your hand on foglight itself to avoid it flying .
4. Take foglamp off car and twist rear cap to open bulb assembly. (Waterproof and tight) Small metal clip moves backwards to release bulb and you simply disconnect electrical wire to cap. Put new bulb (H3) back in and install wire to cap assembly.
Put the car back together the opposite way, only no more mallet is necessary. You will feel foglamp pop back in and then just reinstall 10mm and electrical connection. Reinstall panel under ground effects lip and put all screws/bolts back in.
1. Remove the one clip directly under the foglamp on the black plastic paneling underneath car. Then remove one screw to side directly between clip and tire. This same panel has 2 10mm bolts towards the center of the car. One has a screw design but comes off quicker with 10mm . Once all four are removed bend paneling back towards tire. It will slide out of the ground effects lip naturally.
2. Take the one 10mm screw/bolt out from bottom of foglight assembly. Disconnect the electrical boot at back of lamp assembly.
3. (This is the hardest part) Take a rubber mallet and pop the back of the foglight assembly once and it will pop out towards front of the car. Keep your hand on foglight itself to avoid it flying .
4. Take foglamp off car and twist rear cap to open bulb assembly. (Waterproof and tight) Small metal clip moves backwards to release bulb and you simply disconnect electrical wire to cap. Put new bulb (H3) back in and install wire to cap assembly.
Put the car back together the opposite way, only no more mallet is necessary. You will feel foglamp pop back in and then just reinstall 10mm and electrical connection. Reinstall panel under ground effects lip and put all screws/bolts back in.
Re: Here..
Originally posted by Jeff2k1GLE
I forget who posted this originally but i copied it onto my computer for my own refrence...
I forget who posted this originally but i copied it onto my computer for my own refrence...
Re: Re: Here..
Originally posted by foozed
Umm.. Sorry about that.. I was referring to the re-wire job that allows you to put the fogs on with only the parking lights, and not require the headlights to be on..
Umm.. Sorry about that.. I was referring to the re-wire job that allows you to put the fogs on with only the parking lights, and not require the headlights to be on..
HERE IT IS!
Originally posted by foozed
Umm.. Sorry about that.. I was referring to the re-wire job that allows you to put the fogs on with only the parking lights, and not require the headlights to be on..
Umm.. Sorry about that.. I was referring to the re-wire job that allows you to put the fogs on with only the parking lights, and not require the headlights to be on..
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/index.htm
Someone did it for me at one of the meets, but it should be pretty straight forward.
================================================== ==========
Q: Can I rewire the foglights for the same effect on my 2000 Maxima?
A: Yes, it is possible. Mike Willemsen and Andi first tried it at Maxus99 on Peter Ling's 2000 Maxima SE and the operation was a
success. The process is very similar to the 95-99 directions above. The results are great, with one exception -- the fogs still do not
work with the highbeams. But they will work with the parking lights.
The following 2000 Maxima foglight rewiring directions courtesy of Russell Zotz:
Okay you need the following stuff..
Electrical tape
18AWG Stranded wire
one circular crimp, the female ends on it.
Red 3M-brand wire tap connector T-Tap
a Male connector, (the one with the flat blade type on the end that slides into connectors.
Wireloom.. to make it look stock and hide the wire.
Crimping tool or vice grips
Remember this way of connecting the wire is suggested, but you may do it however you please... This is just the safer way of doing
it.
1.Now, what you need to do, is open the relay box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Look at the top of the box
when you remove, the top left relay if you are standing on the passenger side of the engine compartment is the fog relay. You
need a flat head screw driver, 10 mm socket with extension and ratchet. On the upper end of the relay, you will see a clip, you
need to put the flat head between the white and blue and push it out and pull the relay up at the same time. It will pop out. Do
the same for all the relays on the corners.
2.You will see 2 bolts holding the relay box to the body of the car. Unbolt those. Next, there are tabs all around the box. facing
towards the engine there are 3, 2 on the corners and 1 in the center, pull out gently and pull up on the upper portion of the box
at that time, it will open up somewhat. Next to the other side, 2 on the corners, and now the center is different. You will see
some holes there, This is hard to explain. There are 2 tabs you must push in to the center of the box to release. They're small
but you should see them. Once you get the box open work it to where you can access the wires on that fog relay section.
3.Next, once you found the fog relay section. You will see 4 wires, 2 of the semi-thick, 2 of them semi-small. There is only one
wire you need to worry about. Its a semi-thick YELLOW wire, with a some stripe through it. Mostly yellow. You need to cut
this wire a good distance from the relay, at least 3-4 inches so in case you goof up, you got extra to play with.
4.Now that you cut the wire, Strip the wire that is coming out of the relay at the end only about 1/4 of a inch of insulation off.
To expose the wires. Twist the wires on the end to make them nice and tight. Not the whole wire, just the part you exposed.
Get that female-female crimp and slide it over that one end real tight of the wire, and crimp it with vice grips or a crimping tool
on that side of the crimp. Make sure it's tight by giving it a few nice tugs; not hard but soft tugs.
5.Next, your corner light where your blinker blinks, go to the connector and pop it out. There are 3 wires. You want the
RED/yellow striped one. Use the T-Tap 3M and snap it over that wire. It will tap into it. (The tap color you want is red, its for
smaller gauge wire).
6.Once you got that done, next you need to get that 18 gauge wire, and run it under the overflow bottle and under the relay box,
but it might help to cut some wireloom a little shorter of the wire and run the wire in that then run the whole thing under all
that. The wire will have to enter the box from the rear closest to the strut tower. You will see some other wires entering there.
7.Strip the end of that new wire 1/4 of inch and twist it like before. Then stick it into the other side of the female-female crimp
and crimp it. Get some electrical tape and tape it up really nice.
8.Next go to the other end, and strip the wire 1/4 inch and use that male connector and stick the wire into it and crimp it as well.
Stick that connector into the corner 3M connector at the bottom of the T... once it snaps in, your set.
9.Electrical tape all the connections.
10.Close the fuse box up, put the relays all back in. And your all set.
11.Test them. If you did it right and got good connections your set. It will work with parking lights but not with highbeams yet.
Re: HERE IT IS!
Unfortunately there is no way to get the fogs to work with the highs unless you do some major rewiring (or possibly adding a new relay).
The headlights on many foreign cars are a grounded system. When the lowbeams are on the supply wire to the highbeams becomes a ground and when the highbeams are on the regular beams become the ground. The fogs use the highbeam wire as ground. Therefore as soon as the highbeams go on, the fogs have no ground and therefore can't work.
The possible solution is find the ground wire for the fogs and depending if this is acting as the switch (no ground off, yes ground on) or if the power is acting as the switch will determine if you can overide the highbeam on/fogs off scenario. If the power is the switch, then you can just ground the fogs and they will be on when ever there is power to them. If the ground is the switch then you need a relay that will complete the ground circut independent of the highbeams.
Hope this all makes sense.
The headlights on many foreign cars are a grounded system. When the lowbeams are on the supply wire to the highbeams becomes a ground and when the highbeams are on the regular beams become the ground. The fogs use the highbeam wire as ground. Therefore as soon as the highbeams go on, the fogs have no ground and therefore can't work.
The possible solution is find the ground wire for the fogs and depending if this is acting as the switch (no ground off, yes ground on) or if the power is acting as the switch will determine if you can overide the highbeam on/fogs off scenario. If the power is the switch, then you can just ground the fogs and they will be on when ever there is power to them. If the ground is the switch then you need a relay that will complete the ground circut independent of the highbeams.
Hope this all makes sense.
Re: Re: HERE IT IS!
Originally posted by MarkF
Unfortunately there is no way to get the fogs to work with the highs unless you do some major rewiring (or possibly adding a new relay).
Unfortunately there is no way to get the fogs to work with the highs unless you do some major rewiring (or possibly adding a new relay).
What I did was, instead of only allowing the fogs to work with the parking lights on, I allow them to work with a switched wire, so when the key in in the ignition and turned to ACC and the fogs are switched on, with or without the low-beams or parking lights, the fogs come on. To answer the question of why would we want fogs simultaneously with high-beams, I think most people use their fog lights even when it's not foggy. Any additional light on the road can be helpful and it certainly can't hurt, as long as there isn't any oncoming traffic. Fogs by themselves work great as daytime runners.
Personally I don't have a problem not having having the fogs on with the highs. You're right you wouldn't need both.
But the someone wants them, then Unfortunately they'll need to do some rewiring.
As far as having the fogs on with ignition, all you need to modify from the wiring instructions that put them on with the parking lights, is use a hot with ignition wire to trip the fog relay instead of the hot parking lamp wire.
But the someone wants them, then Unfortunately they'll need to do some rewiring.
As far as having the fogs on with ignition, all you need to modify from the wiring instructions that put them on with the parking lights, is use a hot with ignition wire to trip the fog relay instead of the hot parking lamp wire.
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