I have a 2000 SE 5spd and when i push the gas pretty hard it feels like engine power sometimes almost "cuts out" like a blast of wind hit thew car and sometimes its more noticeable. i use premium gas, replaced air filter, the rpms dont drop but it feels like it is loosing some power...help please?

 

I Notice a little hesitation when its about 85 degrees or higher with the air condition on when the caR is floored..its kinda feels like u lost power for a split sec then it comes back .

 

clean your TB

 

I had the same EXACT problem! I KNOW it is 100% your MAF sensor. Get a new one! Don't listen to anyone else, honest that is it. It isn't your VIAS, your TB, it's that.

 

Could you name a couple of contacts names for a good price for the replacement MAF

Jack

 

The MAF should be $85 or so at the dealer but cleaning your TB for free is still worth a try and recommended by all on the org.

 

Almost certainly MAF. Search for Dave Burnette - I think his number is in the stickies somewhere.

 

Dave Burnette's email address is: daveb@adpub.com.

However, if the MAF went then you should have the SES light on.

 

I blew 4 MAFs and currently I'm on my 5th one, only 1 of them threw a check engine light, and it was cause I had to unplug the ****-er to get home or I wouldn't be even able to fire the engine up. Bad MAF will not always set a check engine light. Repleace your MAF, go to the dealer to get the ECU reprogrammed- half hour check out time they should charge you. Tell them U got the new MAF and U need the new ECU recalibration for the updated MAF. Also get a can of BG44K and dump it in the gas tank to clean out your fuel system. You will be supprised as to how good your car will run.

 

Not true. Codes can be pulled most likely from an O2 sensor but a SES doesn't need to be on.

 

I have the same problem. I have surging/lurching in my car when it's cold out, and I'm reasonably sure that this (surging when cold) is MAF oriented - I've just not bothered to replace it, but suffice to say I think that my MAF is bad, so this (slight lack of full torque when accelerating under full throttle) could indeed be related. If I wasn't so cheap I'd replace it and find out.

It's not TB related, since I cleaned that already. I think that the TB cleaning is GROSSLY over recommended here as a way to fix a vehicle not running at 100%.

 

I just read that the updated MAF number is : 226802y001.
They said to replace with this one.
For sure is seems like a sensor.

 

MAF DOES mean mass air flow sensor...correct?

 

i called nissan dealer they said mass air flow sensor is $418?? how do you clean the tb?

 

AFAIK they try to sell the sensor plus its housing and crap. You can replace the sensor alone - call up DaveB - it's less than $100 through him.

 

Get another quote. You shouldn't have to spend more than $150 including install.

Cleaning the throttle body is very easy. Take off the airbox. Open the butterfly plate of the TB and spray it with air intake cleaner (NOT CARB CLEANER because it can damage sensors and the coating of the TB). Then use a rag to wipe out the grime.

 

It worked for me

 

I have a 2000 Maxima with 56K miles. For the last few months it seemed like the car had no low end power. I really had to step on the gas to get it moving. Lately it started to hesitate when you first would start out with a cold engine. It was also pinging going up hills. Finally it was throwing P0170 MIL codes (lean condition)

I replaced the coils. - This fixed the pinging. Not other symptoms.
I cleaned the throttle body - this helped the hesitation when eng was cold
I replaced the MAF - WOW! what a difference.
I had the dealer reprogram the ECU for the new MAP - Still more improvement.

Finally, I have a Maxima that drives like it should.

BWT the MAP cost $90 delivered from Dave Barton. I also put in an OEM air filter as Nissan tech really pressed using non-OEM air filers can cause the MAF failure.

 

Does it happen at 2000 RPM? Mine does. It runs great up to 2000 RPM and then it hits a wall. I replaced the MAF (didn't do an ECU update) and it ran fine for about a week and then back to the same thing. Almost sounds like something is resetting the ECU.

 

"Does it happen at 2000 RPM? Mine does. It runs great up to 2000 RPM and then it hits a wall. I replaced the MAF (didn't do an ECU update) and it ran fine for about a week and then back to the same thing. Almost sounds like something is resetting the ECU."

On my 2K the hesitation was right from idle. I had to hit the gas hard to get above 3K RPM then it seemed to have power. I suggest you try getting the updated ECU program. The Nissan instructions that came with my new MAF stated that this was a requirement. Do you have any MIL error codes? You may have the coil problem.

 

Sounds like my car, I got a new MAF and it was very powerful for about a week

 

Not necessarily. I never had an SES light but my problem was no doubt the MAF.

You would get a light if there was no signal from the MAF. But that's not what happens. The signal is just wrong - so computer thinks there is a different amount of air than there really is, compensates and you get a problem.

 

That's the OLD price for the old part number. Because of all the MAF problems there is now a "new part number" that is I think around $120 (don't quote me on the price I dont recall exactly). Half the time the parts guys don't look up the correct part. My dealer actually did - but didn't have the MAF and I found it elsewhere.

Incidentally, I believe you get the entire MAF - at least I did.

 

Are you running an aftermarket intake?

The same thing happened to me and I have a CAI. The cause was an air leak behind the MAF and between it and the throttle body.

Apparently, when I replaced the MAF, I shifted the CAI around a bit and the connection behind the MAF got loose. About a week later I started having the problem and at first thought it was the MAF again or something else. Turns out that the bottom of the connection to the throttlebody had folded over into the throttle body and air was leaking in.

The symptoms caused by a leak between the MAF and throttle body are very similar to a malfunctioning MAF because the computer is seeing a different amount of air than the engine is getting.

 

I am also having the hesitation @ start up.
Mine is bad form idle to just over 2k than it seems to be OK.
I have not thrown any codes either. just no low end power.