I'm getting my Berk Intake with the Apexi filter. With all this talk about MAFs blowing up, I ordered an extra MAF for my 2001 SE. I only have about 35K with my max. Here's the deal. Should I replace the original MAF while installing the Berk intake or just leave the original in? I'm hearing from different people that the original one dies right away and some have it where the original will last them forever. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Andy

 

Andy, I've driven about 80 miles so far with the Berk & K&N combo and so far so good... install was a breeze, but I did use extra rubber washers on the bracket and MAF unit to cut out some vibration. I was also told to leave the negative terminal disconnected overnight to reset the ECU.... will let ya know if I encounter anything. Btw, I have a 02 with a lil under 35k, so I'm not sure if we're facing the same MAF risks with the intake... all the best...

 

Like they say...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

 

ok if the new one you bought cost you under 200 closer to 100 i'd say it's the new counter measure maf sensor and in order for it to work properly you have to have the new software upgrade installed to your ecm, it's called an ecm/ecu reprogram.... if the old one is still working then just enjoy it..... but remember you WILL and MUST reprogram your ecu for the new sensor to work properly, failure to do so can cause the mil light to come on.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll have to get extra rubber washers from Homie Depot then. Can't wait to get it. I'll let you know if I run into problems, but thanks for the heads up on the disconnect to reset the ECU.

Andy

 

Btw, I posted this somewhere else... it wasn't my idea but another more experienced Org-er.... to reduce vibration from the engine, you can try using the stock accordion hose, instead of the silicon coupler that comes with the intake, to connect the midpipe to the throttle body. I haven't tried it yet because it seemed like the accordion hose is too big and wouldn't be air-tight around the midpipe, so until I get something to to fix that, I'm sticking with the silicone coupler. The rubber washers only reduce chassis vibration, not engine vibration. And as it says on the install directions, don't over tighten the bracket/MAF bolts either.

I'm not saying my way is the right way, its just what I know and what I did. If anyone thinks I'm wrong here, please correct me, cuz I'm not the most experienced with this stuff....

 

I'm not so sure this is true. A number of us, including myself, are using the new MAf without getting the ECU reprogramed by Nissan, and no problems so far.

 

Guys...

thanks for all your replies. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

Andy

 

What's involved with reprogramming? Is it the same as resetting?

 

NO. Reprogramming must be done at the dealer