Mother of all posts, D2 coilover install, thoughts and pics
09-25-2004, 06:10 PM
#1
I live life on the edge
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 426
Mother of all posts, D2 coilover install, thoughts and pics
Well I spent about a whole day installing my D2’s. First off, it would have been a lot better had there been some form of instructions to tell you how the coilovers are put together and adjusted. I’m pretty **** about things so I did a lot of trial fits and did a lot of measuring. The front was lowered about 2.5” from the stock height. My stock height was lower than usual because all of my struts were gone and sagging. From the ground to the edge of the fender well is 25.5 inches and 26 inches in the rear. The car has about a 1 inch rake from front to rear. Here are the coilovers new out of the box
This install is not for the amateur, so you should have a good knowledge of suspension components and know how they work. You’ll need a ½ inched drive ratchet, 21/2 foot long break over bar ( for the front strut bolts) If you have access to air tools I highly recommend those. They saved me a great deal of time. Some quick tips to aid the install:
1. On the rear struts at the top there are two bolts. One in plain view and the other set back. Looking at the black housing around those bolts you can see the bolts through the hole in the side. To get to the hidden one in the back, take a 7-8 inch extension and go down through the hole in the top, that’s what its there for. It gives you a straight shot to the back bolt.
2. Make sure you measure from the top of the strut to the bottom spring perch. This is so all the springs will have the same tension and stiffness; this will affect ride height somewhat.
3. There are orange strut isolators that are usually well torn when removed. They are paper thin and don’t appear to do too much. I chose to make new ones out of 1/8 “ thick gasket material shown here:
4. You will also need to measure from the bottom of the spring perch to the top of the bottom mounting collar. This is where you adjust the ride height. Measure the stock strut and decide how much you want to lower the car and subtract. This will give you the length to make you new strut. On mine in the front it was 41/2 inches from the spring perch to the top of the bottom collar. In the rear it was the same length. This will vary from person to person depending on how low you want to go.
I also installed some SP performance rotors, X drilled and slotted on the rear. I’ve had a set on the front for about a year and love them. I also installed some ceramic pads front and rear a few weeks ago and highly recommend those.
My opinion on the suspension? Since my struts were already gone on the car, its hard to compare, but the car rides very good. I set the dampeners all the way toward “L” I’m not sure if that’s stiff or soft, I think soft. The car handles a world better. The front is a little stiffer than the back, but it also has a higher spring rate. If I were to do something different I would get a smaller rate on the front. I’m really surprised at how good it rides. I thought for sure it would be a covered wagon, but its not. I have absolutely no squeaks, creaks, rattles, no suspension noise of any kind…………yet.
I also included some pics of my Hayden Tranny cooler. Enough jabber here’s the pics
This install is not for the amateur, so you should have a good knowledge of suspension components and know how they work. You’ll need a ½ inched drive ratchet, 21/2 foot long break over bar ( for the front strut bolts) If you have access to air tools I highly recommend those. They saved me a great deal of time. Some quick tips to aid the install:
1. On the rear struts at the top there are two bolts. One in plain view and the other set back. Looking at the black housing around those bolts you can see the bolts through the hole in the side. To get to the hidden one in the back, take a 7-8 inch extension and go down through the hole in the top, that’s what its there for. It gives you a straight shot to the back bolt.
2. Make sure you measure from the top of the strut to the bottom spring perch. This is so all the springs will have the same tension and stiffness; this will affect ride height somewhat.
3. There are orange strut isolators that are usually well torn when removed. They are paper thin and don’t appear to do too much. I chose to make new ones out of 1/8 “ thick gasket material shown here:
4. You will also need to measure from the bottom of the spring perch to the top of the bottom mounting collar. This is where you adjust the ride height. Measure the stock strut and decide how much you want to lower the car and subtract. This will give you the length to make you new strut. On mine in the front it was 41/2 inches from the spring perch to the top of the bottom collar. In the rear it was the same length. This will vary from person to person depending on how low you want to go.
I also installed some SP performance rotors, X drilled and slotted on the rear. I’ve had a set on the front for about a year and love them. I also installed some ceramic pads front and rear a few weeks ago and highly recommend those.
My opinion on the suspension? Since my struts were already gone on the car, its hard to compare, but the car rides very good. I set the dampeners all the way toward “L” I’m not sure if that’s stiff or soft, I think soft. The car handles a world better. The front is a little stiffer than the back, but it also has a higher spring rate. If I were to do something different I would get a smaller rate on the front. I’m really surprised at how good it rides. I thought for sure it would be a covered wagon, but its not. I have absolutely no squeaks, creaks, rattles, no suspension noise of any kind…………yet.
I also included some pics of my Hayden Tranny cooler. Enough jabber here’s the pics
09-25-2004, 08:58 PM
#5
Skalberti - I installed the front d2s right now.....going to wait till tomorrow to finish the rears...but when i took it for a test drive....my steering was WAY off....is this normal? Like when i did suspension on my old 96 SE 5spd.....the steering/alignment was off only by a little....in my 2k2 with the front D2s installed....basically if i let go off the steering wheel at 40mph....it will pull kinda hard to the right...wheres if i did the same to my 96....it would pull very slowly to the right.....is this normal for a suspension install to make the steering go off? Btw i torqued the bolts/nuts on the lower strut to 115ft-lbs and the top 3 nuts to 30ft-lbs....anybody do anything similiar?
how long should i wait for an alignment since my steering is pretty off?
how long should i wait for an alignment since my steering is pretty off?
09-25-2004, 10:27 PM
#6
I live life on the edge
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 426
When you tighten the two bolts on the bottom collar, one of the two holes are ovaled to help with camber. Make sure you pull towards or to the side of the car as you tighten. Also look at your wheels the should stand pretty much straight, not slanted in or out. I'm getting mine aligned on Monday. the longer you wait to align the more tire problems you'll have depending on how bad out of whack they are.
09-25-2004, 11:30 PM
#7
thanks for the reply!
but one question.....I didn't really take into consideration the top hole is oval shape....all i did was tighten it down to 115ft-lbs without actually leaning the coilover to a certain side to change camber....is this okay? will the alignment shop correct this when i take it in? oh yeah is 115ft-lbs okay for the nuts/bolts too? sorry for all the questions i am just paranoid since D2 didnt supply instructions and i am very angry about it!
but one question.....I didn't really take into consideration the top hole is oval shape....all i did was tighten it down to 115ft-lbs without actually leaning the coilover to a certain side to change camber....is this okay? will the alignment shop correct this when i take it in? oh yeah is 115ft-lbs okay for the nuts/bolts too? sorry for all the questions i am just paranoid since D2 didnt supply instructions and i am very angry about it!
09-26-2004, 09:40 AM
#8
I live life on the edge
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 426
I'm not sure about the answer to your question. I would go ahead and do so you know its done right rather than relying on the alignment shop. If your front wheels are pretty vertical now and not slanted in or out, your probably ok.
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