probably not... doesn't look practical.

 

Silly ? Does anyone have a how to on removing the upper collector and manifold on an 01. I will admit it was late when I tried to remove it, and I may not have been functioning on all 4 cylinders. I removed every bolt I could find and it wouldn't budge. Seemed to be hanging up on the left side. Any help would be appreciated.

Chris

 

there are brackets holding the back of the manifold to the block near the rear of the engine bay

 

Anyone answer this for sleepermax? I am interested in this too...

JP

 

Absolutely no idea, until someone takes a 3.5L manifold apart and inspects it (preferably with high mileage).

 

Got those. They were very difficult to remove. I actually left them off due to the difficulty in removal. The socket kept rubbing the firewall and changing gears on the wrench from clockwise to counter clockwise. PITA. I will try again this weekend. Any other suggestion?
Chris

 

After the intake is out and the throttle body is visible, what are the next steps to get to the vias ? Can someone post a pic of exactly the location where JB weld was applied?

When vias is fixed, the improvement is seen only at high rmps?

 

Hmmmmmmmmm. Welp, update.

I received a used manifold from another org member who was parting out his blown engine.

1. The VIAS box in this manifold was in perfect condition. Excellent. I have pics now that show the VIAS in its 100% proper position. I am going to apply the Original JB Weld to this perfect setup in hopes that it will permanently stiffen it so it won't break in the future.

2. I took out my VIAS and found out that it was BROKEN AGAIN. Apparently the JB Weld Kwik cracked along an oval shape around the center. Could have something to do with the fact that I prematurely installed the VIAS into a really tight setup before the stuff had fully cured.

3. I take back something I said earlier... DO NOT DO NOT DO _NOT_ USE 16MM BOLTS. Use the specified 20mm bolts as SR20DEN originally specified. And when you tighten them, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Tighten until they start to feel firm, then stop. I stripped the threads inside the manifold on one of the bolts thanks to me overtightening it the first time with the new 16mm bolts. Not a big problem, since 3 of them hold it pretty well. I used one of my spare screws to tighten that hole, which seemed to work adequately enough for now. Lesson learned.

 

Spirilis,

After both your and my experience with this, I would just go ahead and use the original jb weld. This stuff is much much stonger than the qwick stuff. I think that it's definatly worth the extra curing time.

 

yeah. I'll have to dremel out the old Kwik stuff from my old VIAS box. I'm currently running on the spare VIAS box from the spare manifold, which was in perfect shape already, no JB applied (excellent reference unit...)

 

if you get achance, take a pic for all of us so that we all know the exact referrance point.

p.s. I'm surprised your guy's JB quik didn't hold up. I redline every day every hour lol.

 

yeah, pictures would be real handy when you get the oppurtunity. im pretty sure that i had the proper resting place but im going to wait on pics to post up before i open it again. i used the kwik stuff as well so i will have to see if i let it cure long enough, if not then onto the original stuff.

 

Yeah, but have you taken yours out to verify it's still working?

Also, my dumb-azz installed the VIAS box 2 hours after I applied the JB Kwik, when it's supposed to cure in 4 hours... on top of that, I did it onto a full-length VIAS rod, before I trimmed it down to the O-ring. That put a significant amount of pressure on it. So that might've had something to do with it.

 

hahh ayeah o checked it last night again lol. Im sure mine is fully cured (i waited 6 hours before installing it... so much for "quick")

 

That's good. I'm going to dremel out the old crap from my old VIAS box, see about lining it up perfectly, provide some measurements (w/ protractor and/or ruler so people can get it perfect) and try using Original JB Weld, let it cure for 2 days, swap it in and drive it for a month and see how it performs over time. It's nice having a spare manifold w/ a perfect VIAS box that's not broken

 

Thank you. I will be trying it next weekend.

 

Does anyone has pictures and a write up on this.... to the no mechanically incline Max owners. I have noticed that my car is loosing power after 4k.....So I will need to do this... can anyone post some pics and a small write up..''


Thanks

 

while cleaning my throttle body/seafoam treatment yesterday I figured I should check the VAIS since i had that area of the engine apart. I had read this thread a few weeks ago, and misunderstood what the actual damage that was causing the problem. So after re reading it I cracked it open again this morning knowing what to look for. But once again, upon inspection it appears fine, no visual damage, the actuator arm and cup rotate solidly as one, no freeplay or backlask.

I have a 2k se w/ 80K+mi on it. So I was certain that it was going do be damaged. I was kinda upset, I have the car for less than a year and was exited that I might get some extra HP that didn't come w/ the car. nonetheless I guess not every car after 40Kmi has this problem. But the seafoam + throttle body cleaning went a long way. I did get some HP that didn't come w/ the car, after I did intake/ypipe/catback, I lost some low end, got some more power but up high, but it wasn't smooth and faded above 5-6k rpm, that's why I was sure my VAIS was broken. But seafoam/ TB cleaning restored my low end + smoothed out my entire RPM range especially up high..... that stuff rocks!

 

Yeah, I have a spare 2K manifold from an org member who blew his engine... I am not sure how many miles his engine had, but his VIAS was in perfect shape. Amazing.

Maybe it's a random issue where something gets seized or stuck with the power valve (and that instigates this issue?) Who knows.

 

I pulled my VIAS apart the other day and mine was in perfect condition too. I have a few mods and nearly 100k on my car, so i was kinda surprized it wasnt broken.

 

do you redline a lot? or go past 5k rpm?

 

Is this a problem on the 02 and up Max's?

 

I redline my car every single time I take it out. Believe me my VIAS gets used in every gear whenever I get a chance. It's designed very poorly, but I dont think this is a problem all 5th gen maximas with high milage have. Mine was in fine, and I know I'm harder on my car than most people here. I've gone through 6 sets of rotors/pads, 5 sets of tires, a transmission, 6 coils/plugs, 1 MAF, bent 2 rims, I need a new clutch, and some other stuff i cant remember, but my VI is okay...for now...(knock on wood)

But its nice to know how to fix it when it does go.

 

This same issue isn't physically possible on the VQ35 VI.

 

Well, I am proud to say that I fixed my VIAS today with JB Kwick Weld. I had a 4th gen, recently sold it and bought this 5th gen. It has 107k miles on it. I've had the '01 for about 3 weeks now and knew the VIAS was probably busted just given the mileage. Today I went into it. Thankfully I was able to remove the stupid phillips screws that hold the thing on. Like spirilis did, I replaced them with M6x1.00 pitch 20mm long hex bolts to make things alot easier. I was amazed at what I saw when I took it apart! It was so wallowed out! There were shavings everywhere which I cleaned. this thing was so wallowed that the valve for all I know could have been in any position it wanted. I did the JB weld fix as described and all I can say is WOW, what a difference! No psychology going on here--this was VERY noticeable. I believe low end to be somewhat stronger and higher end is VERY STONG compared to what it used to be. Thanks guys for documenting this for us all to benefit from. I concluded that before, the valve was in the almost closed position, thus robbing me of down low power. This car rocks now, 107,000 miles and still going STRONG!

 

Hey sorry to bring up such an old thread, but is THIS where you apply the JB Weld?



-Terry

 

yup, that's where the JB Weld goes. The point is to make sure the cup is solidly bound to the center shaft.

 

Ok, Cool. Can't wait to drive my VIAS equipped 4th gen.

 

There is an area between the base of the shaft and the bottom of the cup that you can put JB Weld on, for more bonding surface area. This is in addition to inside the cup. Just be sure cup doesn't stick to housing.

I guess this only applies if cup is completely loose from shaft as mine was.

 

Just wanted to give an update...

After 15k miles with the original JB Weld, it still works perfectly. And I wasn't taking it easy on the car either

 

do you guys leave the spring in there when jb welding it?

 

I did. see photos here.

 

What exactly happens to the airflow when the VIAS valve opens at 5k rpm? Does it just increase airflow? Would I know if it is broken when I take it up to redline? I'd rather not take it apart unless I have reason to believe it is broken.

 

It does just increase the airflow at higher rpm; for more horsepower. If it wasn't opening, you would still be able to accelerate to redline, but you would feel less acceleration force above 5,000 rpm. I'd say if it takes you longer to go from 5K rpm to 6k rpm than it does to go from 4k to 5k, it bears checking. It isn't difficult to take apart and check. Have you looked at the summary and pictures here ?
If you are at all handy around tools, I would check it regardless. The metal in the cup is so weak it is bound to fail for those who regularly go over 5K RPM.

 

so cut spring, set in tacky jb weld, then put in the rod a few min later?

 

It decreases the effective suction port length by connecting all the runners to the secondary chamber creating another/closer plenum, which reduces "suction resistance under high speeds".

Resonance tuning is a more advanced technique of using intake charge inertia.

 

No need to cut spring. Just stick it into tacky JB weld. Wait for JB to get quite hard before reassembly.

 

What if my metal cup is just loose? Should I still put some JBWeld into the cup to secure the metal cup to the metal rod in the center?

 

OK, so I'm ressurecting this one....

I'm thinking of doing this as a preventative measure, but would like to see all the pics that everybody else got to see. They are apparently no longer available via the links in the post.

Could someone please post new pictures so I can know wtf I'm doing when I crack open my VIAS.

Also, any updates would be great!

Thx

J

 

these still work
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/763858/5