How would you rate the reliability of your car after 50k miles?
#1
How would you rate the reliability of your car after 50k miles?
I was wondering how high of a maintenance has your car been to you?
At 71k, i had problems with a falty cat which i had to replace, a rusted muffler, and warped rotors.
At 71k, i had problems with a falty cat which i had to replace, a rusted muffler, and warped rotors.
#2
I think it matters on how the car is driven, where it is driven and all that. The more you drive hard on it the more problems its gonna have.
The maxima's are known for their cats givin out and rusted mufflers can happen to anyone in any car unless you have like a stainless steel one or something.
As far as my car, i have 60K and i have done a 50K tune up and my Cat need to be replaced. Other than that the car is great, runs perfect and i have no problems.
I think there will be alot of maxima owners who thing the same way i do and really dont have many problems with their cars.
The maxima's are known for their cats givin out and rusted mufflers can happen to anyone in any car unless you have like a stainless steel one or something.
As far as my car, i have 60K and i have done a 50K tune up and my Cat need to be replaced. Other than that the car is great, runs perfect and i have no problems.
I think there will be alot of maxima owners who thing the same way i do and really dont have many problems with their cars.
#3
The thing that would cause you trouble on any automatic maxima is well, the automatic transmission being rebuilt sometime. Otherwise, the car, if maintained, should be solid as a rock, aside from those poor rotors.
#4
just dump the cats out, I melted mine after all kinds of NOS experiments on my Maxima. I have had the tranny blow out 4th gear at 65K miles, my 2nd ACT clutch is failing on me, front wheel bearings are shot, VIAS is broken, and I have lots of paint damage, some kinda rear deck rattle coming from inside the trunk... thats bout it. I rebuild my tranny myself, and I abuse the crap out if the car. I got 100K miles on mine, so I can't really complain here I love my Maxi.
#7
I'm at 33k on my 2002 and so far no problems aside from the dim SES light which the dealership fixed (knock on wood here)
However, my ex-rental 2001 at 48k (when it was totaled) had had the rotors replaced twice, both front window motors replaced, starter issues that were never resolved, and a slipping auto transmission that I was going to have looked at sooner or later.
But when it worked, it was a great car.
However, my ex-rental 2001 at 48k (when it was totaled) had had the rotors replaced twice, both front window motors replaced, starter issues that were never resolved, and a slipping auto transmission that I was going to have looked at sooner or later.
But when it worked, it was a great car.
#8
At 92K, I have warped rotors (soon to be replaced) and had my driver side window die while down. Other than that, no problems. I use and abuse mine and it just keeps askin' for more.
#9
I had an SES light on with code P0420, so i need a new sensor. Other then that no problems, runs great. I have 73000 on my 2000. But i will be changing out my plugs along with my next oil change. And i do think it all depends how you drive your car and how you maintain it.
#11
I currently have ~66k on the clock
Rotors warped badly at approx 5 and 10k miles..
replaced with Stillen rotors, metal matrix pads, SS Lines, MUCH better
First emissions light around 20k, fixed with ECU reflash (existing TSB)
Everything was good till around 50k when I had a noticable power drop.. the local dealerships kept saying "no code, no problem" .... Nissan Corporate was no help, they said to contact the dealer (I think it's a case of "no code, no Nissan warranty payment)
At around 60k the car started stalling at idle.. the dealer first nailed me for fuel system service (my fault I suppose for not screaming enough) then finally realized the MAF was bad. After replacement (and 10k miles of missing power, the fun was back)
at ~62k the 5 speed transmission started binding and was replaced.
at ~65k more emissions problems, this time around fixed with precat and O2 sensor replacement.
At this point, the car feels down on power, the transmission isn't NEARLY as smooth as the original, there is an exhaust leak/rocks in can sound coming from the new precat piece (dealer says normal.. I think not, and am going to get under there this coming weekend for a look).
My car is a poster child for leasing and getting a new car every three years. I'm tempted to change the MAF, change the intake, put a y-pipe and check the VAIS.. that would cure most of my issues, but would blow out my extended warranty.
Rotors warped badly at approx 5 and 10k miles..
replaced with Stillen rotors, metal matrix pads, SS Lines, MUCH better
First emissions light around 20k, fixed with ECU reflash (existing TSB)
Everything was good till around 50k when I had a noticable power drop.. the local dealerships kept saying "no code, no problem" .... Nissan Corporate was no help, they said to contact the dealer (I think it's a case of "no code, no Nissan warranty payment)
At around 60k the car started stalling at idle.. the dealer first nailed me for fuel system service (my fault I suppose for not screaming enough) then finally realized the MAF was bad. After replacement (and 10k miles of missing power, the fun was back)
at ~62k the 5 speed transmission started binding and was replaced.
at ~65k more emissions problems, this time around fixed with precat and O2 sensor replacement.
At this point, the car feels down on power, the transmission isn't NEARLY as smooth as the original, there is an exhaust leak/rocks in can sound coming from the new precat piece (dealer says normal.. I think not, and am going to get under there this coming weekend for a look).
My car is a poster child for leasing and getting a new car every three years. I'm tempted to change the MAF, change the intake, put a y-pipe and check the VAIS.. that would cure most of my issues, but would blow out my extended warranty.
#12
130k and I kick the crap out of it. All the things except 2 (slave clutch cylinder and of course VIAS) broke because of my stupidity. I replaced MAF (I decided to spray my maf with massive amounts of brake cleaner and put it in while it was wet), Master brake cylinder (cause i bled my brakes without any fluid in it), car rattles (due to my cut maxspeeds). Other than that, my car is still running strong and I am lovin it. Its making a funny noise right now in the timing chain area like a whurrrrrring noise so i need to get that check.
#13
I love Max's, Mine at 17k miles so obviously no probs except for warped rotors which were fixed...but in the past we had a Max Station wagon (not sure of year, I think 89?). Anyhow that went to 300,000+ miles without any serious money being spent on it...best car ever owned.
#15
2k owner. 75K miles. All of my problems were in the first 50K. The usual rotors, coils, maf, ecu flash updates. Also the power steering line went out. Since the initial design bugs have been worked out it's been smooth sailing. I expect the next 50K to be better than the first 50K.
#16
ChromeSE5- sounds like a waterpump going bad Aint fun to do... I hope mine don't go out any time soon as I'm at 100K miles. Most of them like to go around 200K miles I noticed. I decided if I need to do my waterpump any time soon- I am gonna do chains, tensioners, and put some better cams in the engine.
#18
There are 3 chains, and I belive 3 or even 4 tensioners involved. Water pump is around 80 bux I think, but the chains and tensioners will be around 200 bux. In order to do the cams, you will need to remove the VIAS intake to get access at the rear head. I would just throw some cams in there if you are going to be doing all that. Water pump is driven off the timing CHAIN. Its a really gay design.
#19
It's been an o.k. 100k miles - warped rotors, lifter ticking problems at startup (think this was due to my driving - 3300 rpm to do 75mph for 40 min one way to work every day). Once I stopped the commute, the problem went away. My car does tend to burn up gear oil??? I have to change it every 15k miles or I get very notchy shifting...
#22
58k+ Rotors at 15K and 33K and need new ones now. O2 and ECU reflash at 28K, but got the damn P0420 code at 56K; reset and hasn't come back. My clutch has been chattering every once in a while, but last night it started "whurrrrrring" just before engaging in stop and go traffic. It didn't do it this morning.
Other than that (knock on wood) just gas and regular maintenance.
Other than that (knock on wood) just gas and regular maintenance.
#24
I thought I had a major problem yesterday on the way to work. I'd hear this "click, click, click" at real slow speeds. Slower at 5pm and faster at 10mph so I thought it was something to do with my right front wheel. I got out and checked it and found no problems. I continued on to work and heard it again at the office. I looked at the wheel again and found nothing. I heard it again when I went to lunch and when I went to show my brother I found a 8" branch stuck between the side rocker and the car. I felt like such a dumb ****.
#25
Current odo: ~55k on my 2k2
Bad things:
New tranny (auto) at 53k.
Front brake pads and rotors at only 30k
Needed 4 new tires at 30k, the stock craptenzas are bs.
Stock front struts are leaking now at 55k.
Stock battery lasted only 2 years (in fairness I have an 800 watt amp, so.)
2 MAFs included with recall
3 recalls crank sensor, accelerator pedal, transverse link
4 TSBs hood vibration, wind noise, lack of power, hesitation
1 vacuum hose clamp at 55k at the evap service port, was causing a CEL
2 front O2 sensors at ~45k due to CEL
2 ECU reflashes, 1 for new MAF/hesitation, 1 for O2 sensors
1 auto trans shifter assembly, at ~35k, solenoid stuck, wouldn't let car out of park.
1 fuel cap at 45k for an evap leak
Good things:
Still on stock rear brake pads at 55k
Never had any leaks under car anywhere
Never failed to start, even when cold outside or really hot
Bad things:
New tranny (auto) at 53k.
Front brake pads and rotors at only 30k
Needed 4 new tires at 30k, the stock craptenzas are bs.
Stock front struts are leaking now at 55k.
Stock battery lasted only 2 years (in fairness I have an 800 watt amp, so.)
2 MAFs included with recall
3 recalls crank sensor, accelerator pedal, transverse link
4 TSBs hood vibration, wind noise, lack of power, hesitation
1 vacuum hose clamp at 55k at the evap service port, was causing a CEL
2 front O2 sensors at ~45k due to CEL
2 ECU reflashes, 1 for new MAF/hesitation, 1 for O2 sensors
1 auto trans shifter assembly, at ~35k, solenoid stuck, wouldn't let car out of park.
1 fuel cap at 45k for an evap leak
Good things:
Still on stock rear brake pads at 55k
Never had any leaks under car anywhere
Never failed to start, even when cold outside or really hot
#26
i'm 62K at the miles.. so far just tires, rotors, pads, PCV Valve, cabin filter, K&N Panel.. normal maintence stuff (knock on wood)... About the change the serpentine belts and spark plugs.
Quick question for guys with blown trannies.. does this occurs on mostly manuals, autos, or both? What makes thse trannies weak and will the VB Mod help with whatever the problem is inside these trannies?
Quick question for guys with blown trannies.. does this occurs on mostly manuals, autos, or both? What makes thse trannies weak and will the VB Mod help with whatever the problem is inside these trannies?
#27
I am at 39,xxx on my 2001 SE, 4 new tires at 38,xxx, stock tires are poor quality, side wall bullged seems like that would be considered a defect, nope! check engine light has been on for 4 months, car does this tremor thing once in awhile when started and for some unkown reason seems a little draggy. nothing to big so far, Hey I LOVE myMAX!!!
#28
'01 and at 68,000. So far I've had the SES light come on twice. First was an ECU reflash, second was a pair of O2 sensors. I've also had a wheel bearing, tires, brakes, and paint. To the Max's credit, it has never left me stranded or otherwise failed to start. Knock on wood.
#32
almost hitting the 60k mark....sparke plugs done over twice, all rotors replaced after driving almost a year with warpped ones....got the starter cleaned out to get rid of the whinning noise. changed tires two times, and now the worest.....need to get new ignition coils...found out this week...is it bad to drive the car with bad coils???
#34
i just hit 48,000 miles and im the second owner on my 01 A.E. and it running great but i change the oil relgiously. but you have to expect your rotots to go out and a high flow cat is only gonna cost 100 bucks u gotta learn how to drive a little softer on the max
#36
I've got 96k on my '03 and have only replaced the tires, break pads, and blower motor (A/C in car) because of a rattle. Also had to replace a sensor in my driver's side window (got stuck down for no reason). Nothing else.
#38
Originally Posted by getz1
96k on an 03, holy crap gabuer. I have 56 k on my 02 6 speed, and despite a tranny swap under warranty at 30k I have had no probs. No squeaks or rattles, runs stronger than new imo.
-Getz
-Getz
I drive about 50k a year. I'm in sales. If anybody'll manage to kill a car, it's me. Mine is still pretty solid too, although I'm starting to notice a little noise up front. I think it's a great excuse to toss on some coil-over's and lower it about an inch!
#39
2001 SE 5spd with 99,000 miles (almost there!!!!)
Other than air/oil filter and engine/tranny oil changes, I fixed the VIAS, and replaced the front brake pads at 90k (highway driving ), and it's on it's 3rd set of tires. Other than that, it's solid.
Although the retarded non-Bose stereo changes CD-tracks, and radio stations whenever it feels like it
Other than air/oil filter and engine/tranny oil changes, I fixed the VIAS, and replaced the front brake pads at 90k (highway driving ), and it's on it's 3rd set of tires. Other than that, it's solid.
Although the retarded non-Bose stereo changes CD-tracks, and radio stations whenever it feels like it