ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

.....by the way brose, i was just busting your balz....!

You ARE a wee bit off topic there

Don't take it personal, all the new guys get a little hazing on their first post --oh uh, and welcome to the forum!
Now go find the proper place to post your question!

gr

dmbmaxima2k2

iTrader: (1)

i got a set of slotted/x-drilled rotors with my brake upgrade and they cracked in a couple weeks. I got new ones under warranty but i got slotted only and i was much happier with those. i recommend them to all my friends and no one had ever had any problems with them. They are also quieter then drilled rotors.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

According to people who race Grand Am cup (www.turnermotorsport.com) AND have Motec data to backup their claims, cross drilling only increases the initial bite. They do not reduce fade, stop better or worse than plain or slotted rotors. And based on the cars I see coming in the shop I do not recomment cross drilled rotors for street use. They tend to develop a very weird, ruffled, wear pattern and are FAR more prone to cracking.
If you're looking for recomendations then I suggest getting powerslot or equivilent. They're aluminized to help prevent rust. You can even buy powerslot rotors from www.frozenrotors.com which have also been cryo treated.

The rotor sizes on A33 cars are generally smaller than the rotors on A33B cars. A33Bs use 295mm x 24mm rotors and IIRC A33 rotors are in the 280mm x 24mm range. A34s use 320mm rotors.

DonGfun

iTrader: (19)

Me Too Front and Back

dr_redonkulous

i have the powerslots on the front and hawk pads (not the hawk track pads, the street pads) and i do hear a little squeaking every once in a while. but i am convinced that i stop faster than the oem setup. i've had them for 6 or 7k and no problems yet. i did look at the 04 max irotors and would have bought those if they had been less money. i haven't heard anything bad about them yet.

maxiiiboy- i did read the article that stoptech put out. it seemed like the most definitive break thread i've read. (i am a newbie, but i read this stuff a lot)

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

I am leaning very heavily towards the fronzen rotors in an OEM size, because I cannot afford a BBK upgrade. Not sure on pads yet, but If I had to choose from the most frequently mentioned, I'd say hawk pads.

gr

xmaltbeerxcp

Where can I get brembo cross drilled and slotted rotors for a 03 max? not the big brake kit but the stock oem size ones. any links would be great.

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

FROZEN ROTORS! When will everybody learn that these are the best rotors that you can get for your car? They will not warp!

wu54736

iTrader: (2)

Hey Trex, where'd you get your rotors? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I've searched everywhere for Brembo slotted rotors (for 2002-2003) and I've been told that they don't exist (yet).

MixSE

iTrader: (4)

Ummm.....am I missing something, or are these on backwards? Does it matter?

They look nice btw.

bighunt

iTrader: (1)

here's a pic of my drilled/slotted rotors i installed last month. i'm still breaking them in w/my new pads.

HNDA ETR

iTrader: (10)

I believe you are correct.

When you see people selling drilled, slotted, drilled & slotted BREMBO rotors for our cars, what they usually are, are brembo blanks that they have had drilled, slotted or drilled & slotted.

Basically, they take the blank and modify it, then sell it as being drilled, slotted or drilled & slotted BY brembo, when they're not.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

if the rotor veins are directional, then it matters. In this case the veins just point outwards so you can mount them any which way you want.

my x-drilled brembos in the rear make humming noises if i'm driving against a wall like on the freeway

MaximaPolak

iTrader: (9)

My Crossdrilled and slotted iRotors make that popping noise too. You can hear it better when the sound bounces off the wall.

XGaSpAcHo

what pads are you using?

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Brembo blanks that have been drilled and/or slotted = learning the hard way. Burn these crappy rotors off and get yourself some non drilled cryo treated rotors. I've had them on my car for over a year now and still no warpage.

XGaSpAcHo

have you ever had slotted/x-drilled rotors on your car? and where do you get cryo rotors?

zax 20th ae

iTrader: (3)

Im ridin with, slotted in the front and drilled and slotted in the back.
Stopping is pretty good, way better than oem rotors ill tell you that

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

I started with stock rotors. They were good until they warped which was every two months.

Next was a set of Brembo blanks which were slotted and cross drilled, by someone other than Brembo, for the front and a set of Stillen's drilled and cad plated for the rear. I coupled it up with a set of Ceramic pads in the front and Stillens metal Matrix for the rear. This had to have been the worst setup that I have ever run. Besides constant warpage these rotors had to have been the noisest brakes ever. The sound sucked and it totally degraded the cars Fahrvergnügen. After they warped for the second time in about three months I decided to change them.

Here comes the Frozen Rotors from Diversified Cryogenics. I purchased a set of these slotted, not drilled, thinking that they would be a hell of a lot quieter and I had them cad plated by Diversified Cryogenics. I also got me some Performance Friction pads to go along with the new rotors. The rears were fine and did not need replacing.

All I can say s that it has been well over a year and 1/2 and these rotors are still smooth as silk. Last week I took off the pads and inspected them and since the pads were low, switched them out without ever turning the rotors. Still smooth as silk.

If I had to do it all over again I would go the Frozen Rotors, cad plated but not slotted or drilled since the slotting still makes sound, coupled with a set of Performance Friction Z-rated pads. I also really like the carbon metallic pad by Performance Friction for the street they work really well when cold. The Z-Rated needs one stop for them to feel good and they can cool off too much on the freeway.

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

http://www.frozenrotors.com/

XGaSpAcHo

damn man these are twice as expensive as irotors! i just want rotors (non stock) that wont warp and wont be noisy like i hear the slotted/x-drilled irotors are. can anybody recomend any that are no more than about $70 a rotor?

Rube0023

iTrader: (1)

I have a set of unused irotors front & rear drilled only rotors, new in box. I am selling my maxima so I wont need them, I paid 200 bux for the whole set. Make an offer if interested. Located in Queens.
Thanks
Rube

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

It's more like $230.00 for a set of frozen rotors or $100 for a set of non frozen rotors + another $15 to $20 every few months to have them turned and I'm not even including the hassle of removing them and taking them down to the shop. After two turns you would probably be looking to get another set and bam, another $100.00.

That being said Frozen rotors are less expensive. Frozen rotors, the only way to go, or should I say STOP!

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Oh Yea, it's the cooling effect. Slots in the rotors do not enhance the cooling effect of the rotor. The only way that slotting the rotor may help is in degassing the pad and keeping it a bit cleaner during its life. The less material the rotor has, the faster it is going to heat up.

shawn360

iTrader: (2)

i jus purchased a 00 max with 116k and i have nominal prob with it ,what should i do to make sure that i dont hav any prob in the future plz guide me if u can

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, I used to have slotted/dimpled rotors, those rotors were very noisy now I only have slotted rotors, it's hard to tell the difference because now I have big brake in front, so it's obvious that the braking is much better now.

Shawn360: The best way to keep your braking optimal, is to maintenance your brake twice a year, which mean cleaning the caliper assembly and putting some lubs on the rails where the pads slide. Also changing the seals is pretty cheap and can prevent the piston to ceased, but before check if the seals are punctuate if not just remove it and clean it, then you should be fine.

ODB

Whichever way you go, get zinc or whatever coating. The rust on my new rotors makes me sad

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

I have drilled and slotted rotors. I was once a believer that drilled rotors crack under extreme heat or pressure or whatever but that isnt the case with all rotors. its all about the quality of the rotor. I currently have Racing Brake Drilled/Slotted rotors (stock size) with hawk brake pads. I must have put a good 3,000 miles on them if not more and they work great. Stopping is so on point i get a serious jerk. Everything is still in good shape. My only complaint was my pads used to squeel like a pig but they have calmed down on the noise.

maxiiiboy

I feel quite strongly that for must of us, slotted/cross-drilled rotors create more problems than they solve. Unless you need a lot more stopping power, normal (blank) rotors do just fine and they avoid some of the problems associated with Slotted/XD (cracking, pad wear). That's a very short answer; you may find more details in this very interesting article
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...lections.shtml

Also, some of the other papers on StopTech's site are very informative; see

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml

I have replaced my FRONT rotors with Brembo blanks and I am very happy with them, apart from a bit of rust. I am now looking for a pair of zinc-plated (non-rusting) REAR rotors for my 2000 SE. I would like to buy them for $80 or less. Can anybody suggest/recommend?

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

I got cross drilled and slotted rotors but they are noisy. When my rotors wear out, I'm going to try some slotted rotors to see if they are quiter

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

I replaced my front rotors this past summer with RTP blanks (zinc plated) and Axxis Deluxe pads. No problems so far and I really like the fact that they don't rust like OEM.

bri-max

Does anyone know if 05 Altima SE-R calipers will fit 02 maxima?

maxiiiboy

How much did you pay for your zinc-plated balnks, and where did you get them?

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Fellow Members, FROZEN ROTORS! They are the only way to go.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

$83.00 for the front pair.

grateful1

iTrader: (1)

Look on the group deals. There are several sellers of what you are looking for.

Charcoal95GXE

iTrader: (2)

um tirerack.com brembo blanks. if you dont do any auto x-ing or roadracing, the odds are your never gonna get them hot enough to even notice a difference. I got blanks and HPS pads. couldnt be happier. just driving around town they feel very similar to stock and are extremely quiet, maybe a squeal from time to time. but during spirited times, like slowing down from high speeds or braking really hard before cornering, they are amazing. i would highly recommend them to anyone. And if you just want something for the look, stay away from cross drilled, i have seen so many of them crack when they get hot, go with slotted. brembo makes a good set of slots as well, and they sell them on tire rack.

2 MaXiMuS 4

iTrader: (5)

are slotted rotors noisy compared to blanks?

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

No offense Edward....but I have to TOTALLY DISAGREE.

I have now "warped" my Frozen Rotors twice in less than 10k miles, with Hawk Pads.
I think I was duped into believing that the "freezing" process would make them more capable of shedding heat from the undersized rotors. But what I failed to realize is that it's PAD MATERIAL TRANSFER onto the hot rotor surface that causes the dreaded "warping" issue on our brakes.
The super cooling process of the Frozen's does actually serve to harden the iron in the rotors at a molecular level, thereby strengthening the iron's ability to resist cracking and disformation during repeated extreme cycles of heat (during racing, for instance).

But to my first-hand experience, this process does nothing to prevent the transfer of pad material or provide additional capacity for cooling the rotors.
Don't believe for a second that paying more for these rotors will prevent pad material transfer onto your rotors if you drive even semi-aggressively in normal day-to-day driving circumstances.
It's the size of the rotor and the amount of heat they can dissipate that makes the difference.
For me, the only real solution is to increase the Diameter of your rotors and get larger calipers/pads to evenly disperse the heat onto the rotor surface.

For the money I spent on two frozen rotors and hawk pads, I could have purchased the better half of 2k5 rotor/caliper upgrade.

my 2c.
gr

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I've got power-slot front power-slotted rotors. I tried the hawk pads, but they squeaked way too much so I switched to Axxis deluxe plus pads. The squeaking decreased as well as the amount of dust on my wheels.

The rotors ability to cool down is directly related to those "spokes" at the outside of the rotor. They allow air to flow thru the rotor and cool it down. If you know your pads are getting real hot and you have to make frequent stops, try coasting (no brake pedal pressure) for as long as you can. Then once the vehicle is stopped, pop it into neutral so the super hot pads are not clamped to the rotors. Another thing, take a look at the stock wheel. See how easily you can see the rotor? If you drop on some aftermarket wheels that makes it harder to see the rotor, you are restricting air from hitting the rotor during driving.