Is it worth it to get cross drilled rotors???

Or even drilled /slotted rotors???

 

Agree with TopElement, slotted rotor if you're staying OEM size. I've got slotted, they work great for me. I don't xcross but from time to time like to drive "spirited" and they always seem to grip well.

 

i've got the OEM slotted brembos with PBR ceramic pads...waaaay better than stock.

 

Brembo Cross drilled / slotted with Wagner Quietcool ceramic pads. NO noise at all & NO dust, and the stopping performance is excellent.

Trex

 

i have heard that the slotted rotors my eat up your pads faster. is that true??? if so how much less on milage will i have to replace the pads compared to just the oem rotors?

 

hmmm, I thought it would be the reverse. Since the slotted rotor "slightly" reduces the disc surface area, therefore less grip when the brake pad is applied. The performance is enhance w/the slotted rotor due to the cooling effect of the slotted cut.

 

I can't decide on whether to get the black zinc plated drilled/ slotted iRotors, Powerslots or if I can get 2k4 maxima front Brembos drilled/slotted. I have some decisions to as well in the very near future.

 

I have the black zinc plated drilled/slotted rotors from iRotors and have been very pleased with their performance. I have about 2-3k miles on them now, and don't see the pads wearing any quicker than with the OEM rotors.

 

DITTO

 

are the 00 01 rotors the same as the 02 03 cuz when i search for 02 or 03 irotors or brembos i only find 00 01 ?

 

yea they are, I bought 00 01 rotors for my 02

 

Drilled Roters Are For Race Use And Tend To Be Noisey My Friend Put 13'' Drilled And Slotted They Sqeak Like Crazy When Heated

 

You don't need to cap every word around here GSTYLE.

I am haviing the same dilemma, someone told me the slotted/drilled wear pads faster, anyone know if Brembo makes just drilled for 2k2/2k3, I've looked everywhere. My brakes are going and I don't want warpable OEMS anymore.

 

I have been going through rotors quickly so I went to XD. I have a 2K2 and my guy who works on my car got me my rotors and pads at Brake Pros in Costa Mesa,CA. This may be a part number (?) "XD ROTOR FRT NIS5300" List price $88 ea "THERMO QUIET PADS PD815B" List price $39

I put them in the car at 7/04. I drive about 3,000miles a month - all hwy. They are doing well so far. Last time he looked they said they looked great.

I was concerned about the XD. I actually thought we were ordering slotted but he made a judgment call while ordering and got these. He knows better than I. If they last a year I am getting my money's worth. It is pretty much the only expense in the car so I won't complain. At 97K and nothing has gone wrong except the rotor problem which I had on my Jeep Cherokee also. Must be me??!!
Hope this is info that helps.
Caroline

 

I have had brembo cross drilled and slotted in the past and they are pointless. They do not make the pad wear less or help you stop quicker. They are for looks unless you upgrade from stock and go bigger then you will notice a difference. For instance the new 05 corvette comes with drilled rotors if you get the upgraded packed and GM says that they do not improve performance they are just looks. The only thing that I noticed on drilled rotors is that they tend to crack by the holes if you are in constant traffic.

 

I have some Brembo cross drilled slotted rotors with some umm I forgot what kinda pads..LOL they've been on my car for three years now and I haven't had to change em Amazing truly amazing haha

 

i have brembo drilled/ slotted rotors in the front for now, will do rears soon. they dont do that much for performance, but they look sick, thats why i got them, i didnt expect much except for the fact that they are brembos and that they wont warp as easily as stock ones, regardless of the holes or slots.

by the way, the drilling is for cooling, and the slots are to waste away the built up brake dust so there is less brake fade. I did notice less brake fade though. had to stop real quick before an exit and there was a big difference.

just my $.02

 

I got the group deal rotors, dimpled and slotted from Stillen blanks, about 60K miles ago, a little over 2 years ago. The are still going strong, and I just replaced my front pads about 10K ago, and they still had 1/2 left!

You will need non oem slotted and/or drilled disks if you are to track your car, not auto-x, but road corse driving. The stock ones WILL warp, they just can't handle the heat. I believe the slots and holes assist in cooling, and give a place for the pad gasses to go when braking, eliminating pad float on the rotor thus increasing pad bite.

 

Hopefully in another 2-3 months I'll be able to tell you if having cross-drilled/slotted rotors actually makes a difference... I have the BlehmCo BBK with 6th gen-size rotors and stock pads, and I warped one set of 2004 OEM Nissan rotors. Right now I have iRotors cross-drilled/slotted rotors on there. About 1.5 months so far and still braking smooth... but with all other rotor combos I've had, it's been ~3 months until warpage began, so I can't say for sure yet if these will make a difference.

 

Bought generic OEM pads from some website and Raybestos Quiet stop pads about 9 months ago. Definitely warped just like the stock set up did twice in about 25K miles. I must just drive like crap. Although, I'm extremely conscious of not letting the pads sit on hot rotors.

 

I bought Brembo blanks from tirerack and some OEM pads from Dave B and they've been great. I've had them for about 10k miles and so far *knock on wood* there has been no warping. The dust is still the same as before but still nothing compared to my Audi which is dusty after one day of driving. Definitely the cheapest option if you're just looking for some OEM rotors that won't warp as easily, but no increase in braking performance of course.

 

I replaced the OEM with Dimpled-slotted and so far so good.

AA

 

EBC dimpled and slotted ? I've had them and they really suck. I have drilled and slottled 04 Max IRotors with TTZ calipers, brake pedal is firm, and stoping power is insane !

 

I got Brembo cross-drilled rotors, all around, and NAPA ceramic pads, and yes they're nice, the same compound as satisfied, hawk, and stillen cermic/copper pads. The rotors are great, dissipate heat well, almost no fade. And the pads are lifetime guaranteed. They're made by DANA, however they can be costly. If you're in the CT area i can hook you up though.

 

Is The Rb Racing Brake Rotors Any Good...

 

i would go with either brembo slotted, or brembo blanks but not oem.

 

I don't think drilling is just to make them lighter, what will a few holes achieve for wieght reduction? And what will that weight reduction do for breaking performance?

 

Drilling is just to make them lighter, as TopElement said.

lighter rotors = less rotational mass = better accelleration...this would not be noticeable on the maxima though...

for our purposes, drilling, slotting, and dimpling are for appearance only, except the few guys here who actually auto-x or road course race.

 

I think the theory of drilled and slotted rotors is to give better braking by helping to cool the rotor and pad (in addition to the normal rotor vents) and to give better pad contact by helping to get rid of the super heated gas (basically air) that gets trapped between pad and rotor. The weight saved doesn't amount to a hill of beans.

 

on the other hand...the less material is in the rotor, the faster it will heat up. Physics. The whole theory of "super heated gas" and all that is actually true, but would not generally apply in everyday driving....it is only an issue if you are racing and braking from extremely high speeds over and over again. To that same end, the minimal weight saved would not be noticeable in regular driving situations. It might shave 1/10th of a second off your lap times on a road course.......

I mean, if the slotted and x-drilled rotors are actually better for everyday/normal driving, why is it that there are VERY few cars than come with them stock, outside of a few high-performance sportscars?

 

Cost. You're right that for the daily driver it's probably better to have as much mass as possible. This is why if you have no issues with your brakes (pulsing caused by high rotor runout) DO NOT EVER let anybody automatically machine your rotors during a routine pad change unless you can stand over them and just have them "kiss" them. Slight scoring and grooving is normal and does not affect braking once the pads wear in. GM is one that is quite clear on this. This is gonna start a big discussion!!!

 

Good Point Irish~!
I feel like we just drove-over the dead horse that's been flogged here so MANY times b-4.....
How does this debate keep surfacing????

If you pay attention, you will see VERY FEW high performance (street) cars with cross-drilled/slotted rotors.
i.e. Porcshe, BMW, Mercedes Benz, INFINTI, LEXUS, ACURA, JAG....(what have I missed?) all run at least 75% solid rotors for their street machines.

Sombody's doin' somethin' right.....!

gr

 

Agreed....a little-known fact of brakes is that there's nothing wrong with light grooves in the rotors. Usually this is a result of metallic pads, as could be evidenced by my grooved front rotors (where I use Bendix titaniums), while by back rotors are perfectly smooth (and I use ceramic pads).....

 

The answer depends on what your problem is.

If it's brake shudder, a drilled rotor will not help. In fact, it may make your problem worse.

If the problem is a lack of stopping power, then slotted rotors may help but I would check my brake lines, brake fluid and the pads first.

Like most Maxima owners, I had a problem with brake shudder. I replaced the OEM rotors with Brembo blanks and Raybestosd Quiet Stop pads and I am happy.

I suggest you do a search for an artical by Stephen Ruiz and Carroll Smith (from STOPTECH LLC) that somebody published on this forum a while back. Below is one of the introductory paragrahps (cut & pasted):

For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.

 

Not much break talk in the 6th gen forum except for people warping rotors which isnt suprising. im at 39000 miles on my car and my rotors are terrible. Im gonna have to replace em and get some new pads soon. I know a lot of you run 2004 maxima rotors so are you running the OEMs or an aftermarket company? Im still unsure on brand of rotors and pads but so far only aftermarket 04 rotors I have seen are Irotor and brembo. Does anyone know where to get the best price on 04 rotors? I figured we might have some sponsors selling them? also dont know what pads are good? oh well, if anyone can point me in the right dirrection it would be great.

 

id go with slotted irotors. with stock pads.

 

I have a set of 4 brembo crossdrilled and slotted rotors, bought them for the looks, The pads is were the increased performance comes from. I use hawk pads, a little louder than oem but big improvment when warmed up.

 

hey I was wondering if you had a grille-tech grill installed on you max. because that what i have and the installation kit is zip ties. I was wondering if you had any other idea on how to install w/o using zip ties

 

 

I have the Stillen X-drilled and slotted rotors (front only, which does 80% of your braking anyway). No problems at ALL and no warping like the OEM's. Probably overkill for the street, but similar in price to OEM's, no warping, and they look and perform great.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/rbneron