"PoW"

wow this thread is still alive. but anyways i got my rotors from the GD forum. i got the blanks. they work great and no problems after putting them on.

spiromax

You didn't make any option on the poll for those of us who replaced our rotors with non-OEM blanks...

bvenvert

I bought zinc plated Drilled and Slotted blanks off one of the dealers on Ebay for my Y2K Max and I loved them. I put the Axxis Ceramic pads on at the same time and ran my car for over 50K miles with no issues whatsoever. I will replace the rotors on my Y2K3 with a similar product when I need to do them. Yes they are a little noiser, but man did they provide stopping power with little or no brake fade. Dust generation was very low and what little dust that was generated was so light in color that it wasn't very noticeable and after 50K miles and they still did not need replacing.

livealatimmy

I just put the oem ones back on cause I'm too cheap to but the good ones

STi 2006

mines are still stock

meares

it's more a personal preference.....our cars really don't have the braking capabilty to fully utilize them.

rchun08

iTrader: (7)

i have slotted rotors and hawk HPS...Every 2000-2003 nissan maxima needs to change OEM rotos because they warp too easily...that said, i have about 10000 on my new rotors and no issues. But i think HPS pads are good but OEM PADS probably be the same.

I want to upgrade to Matt bhlems kit soon...

danger300z

iTrader: (4)

so how come when i call discount autoparts they told me that 00-01, have a different part # then 02-03??

spark plugs.

iTrader: (3)

jeebus christ, the misinformation in this thread is appalling. cross-drilled and slotted rotors NOTHING but rice. plain and simple.

if you want to drastically improve your braking, get a big brake upgrade. otherwise, Brembo blanks and a good set of pads are the way to go.

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

The irony there is that most retail BBK i know of for Maxima's (e.g. DIY kits not included) are either drilled, slotted, or both.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

This thread is useless.....

23 dollars each rotors from Napa, made in China thank you very much.
65 dollars for Hawk HPS pads from TireRack shipped.
--------------------------------------------------
109 dollars for the front brakes.

26 dollars each rotors from Napa, made in China again !
60 dollars for Hawk HPS pads from TireRack shipped.
--------------------------------------------------
112 dollars for the rear brakes.

108 dollars -GoodRidge Stainless Steel brake lines, from HorsePowerFreaks.com site (years ago).

40 dollars worth of Motul RBF600 racing brake fluid which is DOT 3 ABS safe.
========================================

Overall I spent 369 dollars on my whole brake setup, which also included free labor on my own.

I've "downgraded" from a BBK kit that I used to have and hated with passion, I had "Brembo drilled and slotted rotors", I've had OEM rotors, I even had EBC Grooved and Dimpled rotors...

I found NO need to spend extra $$$ on OEM stuff vs the chinesse made rotors. I've had them on my Maxima for approx 20K miles in the front and about 4K miles on the rear, I have no vibrations, no pulsations or anything weird to do with my brakes.

I bet my Maxima stops even better than those BBK ones here on the .org. Just cause you have big brakes does not mean that you can stop good..... especially those with 04+ rotors on their 5th gens, braking efficiency is down in the krapper + your car accelerates slower now as a side effect also !

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

Then why add to it with more of your own misinformation?

danger300z

iTrader: (4)

anyone post #88????????

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

Because '00-01 rotors are SMALLER than '02-'03 rotors.

280mm x 24m vs. 295mm x 24mm.


Z32 Rotors are 280mm x 30mm.

96blkonblkse

iTrader: (18)

i dont have cross drilled on my 02 but on my 98 5spd i have stillen cross drilled rotors on and they are more or less for looks but when i put on my KVR pads and the rotors i did notice a bit of a difference in braking, on some hwy runs less fade and they look ALOT nicer then the stockers

danger300z

iTrader: (4)

thankz....

spark plugs.

iTrader: (3)

so you're saying that the crappo rotors you spend more money on to get slotted AND cross-drilled are more efficient and longer lasting than blanks?

bigfatty

iTrader: (1)

When you spout your mouth off and say very specific things without anything other than your word to back it up, as SR20DEN said you are just adding misinformation to this thread. I went back and read every single post in this thread, something which you did not do, and by far the consensus is agreeing with what you said. So why are you saying that the misinformation is appalling when 99% of the replies are agreeing with you. I can help but notice you are in every rotor thread stirring up crap for no reason. SR20DEN posted some good info that SUPPORTS his OPINIONS. Maybe before you shoot your mouth off again, find something to back up your OPINION. Again I feel you are just stirring up crap which brings me to my next point...

Read SR20DEN posts in this thread again. You will see that he does not support xd/slotted rotors for anybody in a street use car and never states specifically what he has has on his own car. So why are you caliing him out? Your opinions mean nothing on the .org and you have shown no value yet to this community either.

Finally everybody else ignore spark plugs. Just look at his previous posts and take everything he says with a grain of salt. Because if you believe him he has had his car since 05' and has tein s-techs, H&R Sport and now Eibachs. But he makes no mention of his broad personal expirence of those previous struts in this quote ....

HMMMMMM you guys tell me.

ghost

alright fellas I just installed front/back cross-drill/slotted rotors with dura last ceramic pads cause those are the only ones I could find over the weekend and I was inpatient. I have two questions, 1. I've search every where I could think of "yahoo images, cardomain, here" and I've seen people put rotors facing both ways as far as the holes/groves go, can't figure which way is right way. 2. Since this was my first time doing brakes I notice that the new pads did not have the metal thingy where the stock hooked up on the clip from the caliper, is this normal? I hear the pads rubbing when Im driving at slow speeds on the freeway by the wall and I think is because they are not retracting back like I think they should plus I see some dust which I know is normal considering that the groves would remove more pad as oppose to blank rotors. Here's a pic of my rotors, I swapt the front rotor to look like the back ones "ones painted blue" I forgot to take pics of the front ones after I swapt em. I'm planning on getting hawks but they're on special order, gotta wait like 3-4 days.

bigfatty

iTrader: (1)

Here you go

zoner

70K on my slotted rotors - not even the first hint of warping and still rolling strong. The OE ones didn't make it 20K before bad problems....

zoner

[QUOTE=ghost]alright fellas I just installed front/back cross-drill/slotted rotors with dura last ceramic pads cause those are the only ones I could find over the weekend and I was inpatient. I have two questions, 1. I've search every where I could think of "yahoo images, cardomain, here" and I've seen people put rotors facing both ways as far as the holes/groves go, can't figure which way is right way. 2. Since this was my first time doing brakes I notice that the new pads did not have the metal thingy where the stock hooked up on the clip from the caliper, is this normal? I hear the pads rubbing when Im driving at slow speeds on the freeway by the wall and I think is because they are not retracting back like I think they should plus I see some dust which I know is normal considering that the groves would remove more pad as oppose to blank rotors. Here's a pic of my rotors, I swapt the front rotor to look like the back ones "ones painted blue" I forgot to take pics of the front ones after I swapt em. I'm planning on getting hawks but they're on special order, gotta wait like 3-4 days.



1. According to the folks at Car and Driver, the important thing is that the cooling vanes in the rotor face the right way, not which way the slots on the rotor face, which they say varies with the manufacturer. Hope that helps.

ghost

thanks a lot fellas, like always u guys come thru when I need help. I gotta go back this weekend and recheck if the vanes face the right way, don't matter cause I'm swapping the rims this weekend anyways. Oh yeah I didn't hear the rubbing with the pads like I did on monday so I think I'm ok on that.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Not worth it at all in my opinion in terms of performance. I got my 6th gen rotors for 25$ each which are better than any drilled or slotted stock size 5th gen rotors. In terms of looks.. how much the cross drilled/ slotted look is worth to you is your opinion.

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

When i first came here, this was much debated. I was told Slotted rotors do nothing, and if i wasn't going for blanks, then get cross-drilled. I went to tirerack.com, which led me to stillen.com, and finally Brakepros.com. I called up brakepros to MAKE SURE the Xdrilled rotors would fit my car without modding the fitment, and made my purchase. I got Hawk HPS (street) pads to go with them. I did all four corners and had a local shop do the work. Initially the brakes hissed lightly, but driving on them after following the set-in instructions, i was quite amazed at the performance of this combination. The hawk pads are a little soft initially but then quickly firm up. I had these pads put on almost 20k ago when i had HORRIBLY WARPED oem rotors and was riding the wear pins (i know i waited longer than i should have) However, I've suffered no cracking, the worst noise i get is a little squeeking when they're cold and i havent used my car in a few days(i know, a rarity for us fanatics) but in conjunction with Michelin Pilot Sport A/Ses, I can scrub off speed VERY fast (100-60 in 2 seconds anyone?) and i have yet to see cracking anywhere on the pad. I think this trait happens alot because people seldomly follow the set-in procedures that are outlined at tirerack.com. I am constantly impressed by my setup with minimal work, so imho is an excellent alternative to a BBK (especially if you dont have 2k to drop on mods like me) My shipping actually got delayed because they were making sure the nickel coating was spot-on. When i got these rotors i was actually surprised that they were Brembo Manufacture. They Look fantastic suttlely showing through my Ti edition rims. Maybe I'll take pics soon. Bottom line is, it seems i have a little more miles on my setup than alot of the posters here, so If you need an idea of durability on the rotor types, there you have it.

Urbanracer

Crossdrilled/slotted rotors sacrifice contract area between the pad and the rotor, so unless your going with larger brakes your scarificing stopping power. The purpose of slotting is to disperse gases, dust, and water that builds up at the pad under HEAVY braking (usually race applications). Crossdrilling has two maybe three purposes, looks, reduced rotational mass of the rotor, and to drain water which may collect on or in the rotor venting. Crossdrilling actually weakens the structure of the rotor. slotting/drilling may contribute to some heat loss but its not really the point of either. Venting is the primary heat loss function. Warping can happen for any number of reasons from improperly torquing the lugs to keeping your foot on the brake after alot of brake use. Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads should work just fine on a maxima seeing that most people here won't track their maxima. IMO crossdrill/slotted rotors are a waste of money for a maxima unless your doing it for looks. Just my 0.02 on brakes, take it for what its worth.

† ErV †

brembo oem.. i dont want fancy useless stuff.. just good stuff that works. i burn brakes but those have held up well close to 50k so far. pads are due again too.. a little shimmy at certain situations but it's typically heat related as it doesn't occur on cold days.

Crooklyn

I personally have had x-drilled brakes on my 4th gen b4 I got t-boned and economically they are not worth it, I would say the same for slotted. If I remember correctly a long long long time ago b4 the org was sold they had a dicussion about this, Brembo does not drill or slot their rotors, with the exception of their BBK. I am sure I will be corrected if I am wrong. Blanks are fine. those rotors that u see do not offer any real effect on ur braking time in normal driving and I dare say "spirited" once again unless you buy a BBK.

Remember when u go to the dealer or your local repair shop to change pads etc. x-drilled and slotted cannot be resurfaced(grooved) and x-dilled do crack. People will have varying opinions as some like the look as did I, But cost and headaches out weigh.

shurik

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys I'm looking at Brembo/RTP zinc plated sloted rotors, and PBR/Axxis brake pads from here at the GD! Are those PBR pads any good?

beakersloco

WOW thier is a lot of mis-information here.

All I want to know is the cheapest way to keep having to get my OEM rotors "resurfaced" because of warpage.

I see that one person went to NAPA and bought new plain jane rotors and it worked. So my question is will this fix the warpage issue if I just change out the OEM rotors from a local parts store (advancd,napa or autozone) ?

beakersloco

I just called local advance and its gonna cost around $70 each to replace the fronts. I can go on ebay and get a pair of slotted and cross fronts for about $100 (including shipping) for way less then local parts store.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

No it will not stop your rotors from warping if you continue to use Nissan or any cheezy brake pads from your local auto parts store.

If you run Hawk HPS or any performance brake pad they do not break down under heat like the cheap OEM stuff. What happens is that brake pad material sticks to the rotor, and its actually uneven because of that not because its "warped". Performance pads do not stick to the rotor, and their only down side is that sometimes they dust a lil bit more than OEM or might squal a lil bit.

These 200 bux a set of 2 rotors are NOT needed, they are for looks only. If you drive from point A to point B and just need brakes to WORK and not shake. Save some $$$, go to Napa, spend 50 bux on a set of OEM rotors for a SET, order up a set of Hawk HPS and break/bead the pads in right. It will be the best 120 bux you ever spend if you do your own work.

EDIT- www.napaonline.com has rotors for 27 bux each..... you can pick them up at your nearby Napa store and just pay the Tax and have them for less than 65 bux. I belive I paid less because I bought them through my shop, and I get a wholesalers discount on parts.... eighter way 27 each on the front and 22 bux each rear..... its a steal.

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

I had cross drilled Brembos on my Max for three years and it didn't make much difference in performance based on the way I drive, mostly highway driving. They did make more noise when stopping.

I just switched to stock brembos and perefer these because they're quiet.

beakersloco

Thanks .... I will check napa out but actually I want to put a nice set of wheels on the car so I might get a slotted set just for appearances. I actually dont use the el cheapo pads ... I actually bought a good set of pads last time I replaced them Duralast Ceramic.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

patriotic!!!!!

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

my rotors have changed....

JimmyH

iTrader: (2)

The last time I saw an Indycar on tv with its wheels off, the brakes had no holes or slots in them. If they use solid rotors....

I am using Brembo rotors, oem size, no holes or slots, with oem Nissan pads. After 40k miles, I still have no warping. With oem rotors, I got vibration when braking after about 25k-30k miles.

MidN1te

iTrader: (2)

I bought the R1 Conept racing brakes, the slotted and drilled and so far i had them for 5k and they are great! they stop great and no squeaking or anything.

platinum03SE

ide say atleast get a set of SS lines and some coolblue fluid. that usually makes the experience of after market brakes a little better.

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

SLOTTED FOR ME....SLOTTED POWERSLOT ROTORS IN THE FRONT

AND BREMBO BLANKS IN THE REAR

WITH HAWK HPS PADS ALL AROUND

ON MY NEXT BRAKE JOB probably some time in april im going for new calipers on the fronts and im kicking the brembo blanks for POWERSLOT SLOTTED IN THE REAR....i hate the rust stains on the damn brembo's...**** is nagging me AND IM GETTING SS LINES

and the reason im gonna change my calipers is because my brakes STILL SQUEAL up fron after countless TIMES OF GETTING THEM TO STOP


p.s DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET SS STEEL BRAKE LINES FROM ANYWAY?

EDIT: IS THIS WHAT I SHOULD BE LOOKING TO GET?
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?...8&cat=0&page=1