This should work on all Cali spec 00-01 Maximas with the 4 02 sensors infront of the front valve cover, might also apply to the 02-03 Maximas.
www.o2simulator.com - when removing precats or main cat, the check engine light will come on with codes P0420 and P0430. This little 30 dollar box helps you keep your car check engine light free. Rear 02 sensors monitor if the cats work, they do not affect the long or short trim fuel- basically doesn't affect drivability or air to fuel ratio. ECU just looks for working cats, and this fools it into thinkin the cats are in place.

*White Wire on the Simulator goes with the white wire on the Oxygen sensor harness- this wire is the signal wire that the Simulator modifies- leave the wire from the 02 disconnected- let the simulator fool the ECU.
*Black wire goes with Black Wire- this is the Ground
*Pink wire on the simlulator goes with the Red and yellow wire on the vehicles harness.
*Red and Blue wire is unused by the simulator, nor is the Pink and Black on the other oxygen sensor- these are for the oxygen sensor heaters. Disconnecting these will throw a check engine light for Heater circuit maulfunction.

When I install these O2 simulators I connect them directly to the harness on the car, but BEFORE the oxygen sensor harness connectors. The wire colors change to 2 whites and one black and one gray after the connector- and they go right into the oxygen sensor like that. They are thinner gauge too which makes for a hard install. I have been asked mannny times by folks on the forum, which wires to tap into, so today while putting on my Blizzaks for the winter I just quickly wrote down the colors and wires so I can post it here. You will have 2 white wires on the DUAL version of the simulator- which I recomend you guys get when doing headers, since 2 cats will be eliminated and it will trip a check engine light for eighter one. Just cut the one white wire on the other oxygen sensor singal wire, and splice in the 2nd white O2 simulator wire to that oxygen sensor's wire harness. The Simulator takes power that runs into the oxygen sensor- which is called refference voltage. It modifies it into voltage that is read by the ECU as GOOD WORKING CAT, and thats how it all works. If still confused, look at your cars wires, tell me what you got and I will try to help ya out.

 

thanks alot for the info mike. However on my car the wires after the harness are already one black, one grey, and two white (underneath engine cover)

I'll probably invest in a multimeter to see which one is the power. I'd suggest having people taking a good look first before cutting any wires

 

You need to look at the wires BEFORE the oxygen sensor harness connector- they will be shielded by some black rubbery shielding. As you said the wires are 2 white, one gray and one black- but thats AFTER the oxygen sensor harness connector.

 

i need help too... is the simulator connecting to the battery and the oxygen sensor... i have 00 max(cali spec) got 4 wires too...

 

test post:

Sorry if this gets bumped, but someone said they could not post in the thread...

 

We know why... Over a year old.

 

I know it is old, but why could I post in the thread, yet they could not??

 

The age of the thread doesn't matter... you can post in threads from 2000 if ya wanted to. He's not doing something right or his new member status may have restrictions.


Btw, it seems that I can post here too....

 

Who care's about the Whatever their question is, I'm pretty sure it's been answered before.

 

Wow, back from the dead... Another zombie thread, LOL

 

Yeah,that's because upstatemax and NmexMAX posted before you ...joke of course

That's what i got yesterday about the O2 installation:

You will still need to keep the two stock secondary O2 sensors partially hooked up, someplace in the engine bay (these are the two that screw into the y-pipe, NOT the manifolds). Each of the O2 sensors has a heater circuit and the ECU looks for that load for the heater and knows when its gone. It will throw a check engine light if the heater circuit is disconnected. This is why you cannot completely disconnect the two rear O2 sensors, your ECU has to see the heater circuits (and the simulator is not made to trick the ECU about the heater circuits, just the emissions).


The O2 simulator is pretty simple to install. You just tap into +12V power and ground, and then cut the signal input wire off each of your secondary O2 sensors and attach the yellow wire from the O2 simulator instead (one for each simulator). The only wire to each of the real O2 sensors that gets cut is the signal input wire, the power, ground, and heater circuit wires are all left attached to the sensor. It's all spelled out pretty clearly in the instructions.


So i want to ask you if these instruction is correct and can somebody share a pic with O2 sim and both O2 sensors installed in the engine bay? Tnx!

 

I just purchased one of these simulators from cattman and I hooked it up in my brothers honda accord cause the o2 in his cat was shot and it triped a CEL and so far its working perfect. Just a little time consuming finding out which wire to tap into but nothing a volt meter couldnt handle. But the simulator is a great product.

 

That is correct. And yes, the primaries (upstream) remain in the manifolds but the secondaries (downstream) are the ones dangling about. If you really wanted to, you could try what 6 Spd Hayes was thinking of, which is also mentioned in the FAQs of www.o2sim.com, and completely remove the downstream O2 sensors including the heater wires and use a resistor to additionally simulate the heater signals.

His thread is here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=435399

Sounds about right to me....

http://www.o2sim.com/28301/index.html

 

Do you have to use the ground and 12V from the O2 sensor wires, or can you get it from another part of the car?

 

I don't see a problem using a GND and +12V line from any source. The key is to have the signal wire connected to the simulator properly... Simulator uses GND and PWR to run regardless where it comes from...

 

Quick Q: has anyone replaced a primary O2 with a simulator?

 

That's not what o2 sims are for. Your car can't really run without the primarys in action.

 

Understood, in theory everything should work fine, but say it goes bad, it would be cheaper to replace with simulator. I'm just currious if anyone has done it...

 

Im getting a code 430 what o2 senser would i replace with a sim. thanks.

 

Check your cat first, it may indeed be bad. If it is only a bad sensor then it is the one at the main cat itself...

 

Im throwing the low voltage, bank 1 sensor 2, and just replaced my o2 sensor. The CEL went off for about 300 miles then went back on. I am thinking I have to get the ECU reflashed but thats another $100. If i run the o2 sim, it fools the computer into thinking it is running properly. My main concern is if this will affect emissions in anyway? Thanks.

 

Been there - had that headache

If everything else is running fine and if this is your secondary O2 (I think it is), and you put on the simulator, you should be OK with regards to emissions...

 

No, all the secondaries do is monitor cat efficiency. The sim will just help ya get rid of the code.

BUT, if your primaries go out (which you'd have the code for as well) the ECU will try to use the secondaries for the closed loop operation. Not sure what happens when you have a sim for the secondaries and that happens, but I'll post when I find out.

 

I think that scenario would confuse the hell out of the ECM, as the secondaries would report perfect conditions and primaries not, so in that case I think ECM might go to a default table settings

 

Yeah, I'm still not an expert on how it all works, but I know the ECU will try to maintain stoichiometric somehow during closed loop.... now if the signal from the sim is constant and the primaries are dead, I would think that the ECU would maintain one injector pulse width because the signal is unchanging, and this would lead to a constant rich or lean condition (or stoich) depending on the signal voltage from the sim.

Anyone?

 

I need help once again,because on friday i'm instaling headers and i'm not shore exactly which connectors are belonging to the secondaries O2 sensors(plz look the pic). Or probably would be enough if somebody tell me where are placed on the exhaust system. My I30 with Canlev Emissions has two of them on the front header,one is on the second and the fourth is on my y-pipe. Thank you very much!!!
Picture >>>> http://surl.se/ahwe

 

The picture you have only shows 3 O2 sensors. From left:

Bank 2 Sensor 1 (primary) - with blue wrap that goes into the front header
Bank 2 Sensor 2 (secondary) - with red wrap that goes after front pre-cat
Bank 1 Sensor 2 (secondary) - with white wrap that goes to y-pipe

The 4th O2 sensor is just behind the back left corner of the intake manifold and it is your Bank 1 Sensor 1 (primary). This has blue wrap and goes to the rear header.

If ya didn't already figure it out Bank 2 = Front and Bank 1 = Rear.

For diagrams go here:

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB02-051a.pdf

 

So you are saying, is that if my primaries are running fine (no codes for those), and I install the sim for the secondaries, its no big deal. Hopefully blackbird or some emissions expert can chime in on this. Thanks for the help so far.

 

Btw Brio, what brand headers are you installing? Cattman? Hotshot?

And those colors I gave above are from my car (2002 Maxima) which is CALI spec too and I'd imagine that they are the same for you. Hopefully.

 

I believe he has said the same thing in the past as well, but we'll let others chime in so that you have more affirmation. O2 sims get rid of your codes and will not affect emissions. The primaries are what influence AF and your cats are what really affect emissions.

 

I'm instaling cattman(now have cattman y-pipe) .Thanks for the help,because here in Europe probably noone knows about some O2 sims and everybody is looking at me like a idiot One more time tnx for the info!!!

 

One thing about the Cattmans and O2 sensors, you will probably have to extend at least the rear primary to reach the bung on the rear header. Its probably easier to extend the harness down towards the bung because the wires before the harness are copper (the wires after the harness are steel or something) they are easier to cut and solder, so that's what I would do. For the front O2 sensor to reach the bung, you can cut the black wrap that the wires are in, separate the O2 wires, re-route the wires, and relocate the wire harness for the sensor to reach, just make sure to re-tape or wrap the wires after you do this.

For both banks, whatever you do, just make sure you zip-tie the sensors, harnesses, and wires AWAY from the manifolds to prevent any melting from the heat.

 

Finally i didn't install the O2 simulator and after 2 days driving, have no CEL. lol Probably i'll get it later but anyway, it's little bit strange that after 50 miles didn't get that check engine light yet.

 

It may or may not come on. Sounds like the install went well then....

 

Do you even have emissions regulations over there?

 

Does anyone have a picture of your O2 sim install?????
Would be nice to see where its all attached to. I know which wires to tap into, just wanted to get a look at some instals.

Thanks

 

What sensor gives the code 430. I installed my sim on sensor with the white wire shroud. But now i think i might have hooked it up the to the wrong one. I think i should have hooked it to the red one instead. Any help fast would be awsome i want to fix it today if I could.

 

Code P0430 is for Bank 2 or the front precat. The O2 sensor with the red shroud is the correct one.

 

Quick note: My mechanic was able to re-route the rear primary O2 harness when he installed my Cattman headers without having to extend the harness.

 

Yeah, since I did that with the front, I figured it'd be possible to do that with the rear, but then I got lazy and didn't wanna bother untaping all the wiring again so I just cut and soldered. We also had plenty of O2 wiring and sensors laying around so that made things easy too.