Rear deck rattles: resolution - pics
04-20-2001, 07:35 PM
#1
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
04-21-2001, 02:12 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 805
Originally posted by mdeal
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
04-21-2001, 04:09 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 419
Re: mdeal
Mdeal, your solution regarding the rattling is excellent.
I have two 12"Pyle subs and when the bass hits, it rattles the rearview and sometimes side mirrors. I will implement your fix. I velcroed the rear license plate holder, bottom half, to the license plate. That stopped the rattling from the lic. plate area.
I have two 12"Pyle subs and when the bass hits, it rattles the rearview and sometimes side mirrors. I will implement your fix. I velcroed the rear license plate holder, bottom half, to the license plate. That stopped the rattling from the lic. plate area.
04-21-2001, 08:48 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 63
Mdeal, Velcro
Originally posted by mdeal
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
BTW: Here's some other sources of rattles and resolutions to Bose rear deck rattles.
1. Trunk rod support clip - Push the trunk rods out of the clip carefully and apply velcro around the trunk rods, then push the rods back into the clip.
2.Seat Belt Retractor Housings - Apply 3M Polybutylene Ribbon Sealer into and around the housings.
3. Trunk Light Bulb Lens Cover -Apply 3M Polybutylene Ribbon Sealer around the lens cover.
4. Top Cargo hooks - Apply 3M Polybutylene Ribbon Sealer into and around the hook housings.
5. Wiring Harness Clips - Apply 3M Polybutylene Ribbon Sealer around the clips.
04-21-2001, 09:13 PM
#12
I wasn't trying to lift the parcel. When I "lifted" in my pics, I was demonstrating the rattles subsides. This was because the rattling was going through the clip onto the parcel, causing the rattle sound. The lifting action caused everything to move up and away from contact with the metal underneath.
The Velcro keeps the parcel more securely fastened to the metal body underneath. The foam pads are held more firmly against the body. The Velcro eliminates any "gaps", which produce rattling.
I suppose you could just jam something thick in between the body and the foam pads. That may have the same effect. The Velcro, since it sticks together, ensures there will be very little or no gap.
The Velcro keeps the parcel more securely fastened to the metal body underneath. The foam pads are held more firmly against the body. The Velcro eliminates any "gaps", which produce rattling.
I suppose you could just jam something thick in between the body and the foam pads. That may have the same effect. The Velcro, since it sticks together, ensures there will be very little or no gap.
04-21-2001, 10:25 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 76
The other day i had the whole shelf taken out. On the very back, right next to the rear window, there is a long strip of 3m tape from one side to the other. The only weird thing was that the sticky part wasnt out. It seems like nissan went through the trouble of putting the tape there and then forgot to expose the adhesive. What gives... anyone know? I had 4 10" inch subs and i couldn't stop the rear deck rattle either. I just got the local audio shop to make a custom shelf.
03-25-2003, 02:40 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 26
Originally posted by mdeal
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
I have found somewhat of a resolution to the BOSE unit rattling the rear deck (e.g. parcel).
I found the parcel to not be securely fastened to the frame, or the metal stuff underneath. I used velcro to further secure the parcel to the metal stuff to add more rigidness. There is a clip which holds the parcel down, but apparently it is not holding it down enough, and it causes vibration. In summary, the BOSE unit is shaking, causing the vibrations to eminate up through the securing clip onto the rear parcel, resulting in a "rattling" of the rear deck sound.
It should be noted the proper way to do this is to take out the rear parcel. For my application, the foam pads (see pics) just behind the BOSE unit were the ones vibrating the most. Others were as well, but those two in particular were the worst.
I plan on going back in and removing the rear parcel completely, and Velcro'ing all spacers.
The pics are here: http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/mods.html under "BOSE..."
Note: Most of the rattle went away, but there is an ever so slight hint of it, most likely because I didn't not Velcro all spacers. This could have been attributed to the CD I was listening to as well. It is much better now.
03-25-2003, 03:44 PM
#16
Originally posted by mdeal
Sorry, but the pics are no longer available (lost). I removed the references from the site, I thought, but not sure if I can doctor the sticky.
Sorry, but the pics are no longer available (lost). I removed the references from the site, I thought, but not sure if I can doctor the sticky.
i am 2 late i guess. i needed to c those pics
06-15-2003, 11:17 PM
#22
Originally posted by MaxedOut2g
4th
4th
easy fix.....go to walmart or target, get for $8 the tiwn size mattress padding. now cut it up into bits. i'd say 2" x 6" bits. pop open your rear deck and stuff it in as many spots. cleared my rattle completely. now if i dind't blow my front components, then maybe i'd enjoy my system...STUPID ME!!!
06-16-2003, 01:05 AM
#23
I must have done something wrong... i got that same mattress padding, put it everywhere i could, and the deck wouldnt snap in. I ended up trimming down the mattress bumps over the entire thing before i got it to snap back in, now that rattle is still there!!
any idea what i can do now?
any idea what i can do now?
06-16-2003, 05:58 AM
#24
Originally posted by Darius
I must have done something wrong... i got that same mattress padding, put it everywhere i could, and the deck wouldnt snap in. I ended up trimming down the mattress bumps over the entire thing before i got it to snap back in, now that rattle is still there!!
any idea what i can do now?
I must have done something wrong... i got that same mattress padding, put it everywhere i could, and the deck wouldnt snap in. I ended up trimming down the mattress bumps over the entire thing before i got it to snap back in, now that rattle is still there!!
any idea what i can do now?
also, even after all this was done, i got rid of the rattle, but created another rattle when the seat belt covers (those things that bump out that clip onto the reardeck) were pushing against the metal bars and creating rattle. i stuffed some padding in between that, and that took care of that.
don't know if anyone else has this issue, but i also had rattle from my sidemarkers. again, i used some padding, 2 pieces 1"x1" and opened up my sidemarkers andp ut them on the very edge. this secured my sidemarkers and ended the rattle.
as far as licenseplate, i went a little crazy cause i was bored and dynamatted my license plate. that killed that rattle. the only rattle left is on my trunk lid. no matter how much i put, nothing will stop the rattle. i notice that when i push on the lid towards the front of the car, the rattling stops, so i just need to work on that.
other than that, everything else on the car is completely rattle-free.
p.s. these are 2 12" TDX subs with about 600 watts going into each, if anyone was wondering what i was pushing to create this rattle.
06-16-2003, 07:24 AM
#25
This is what I did and the rattle stopped.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=313259&page=4
I covered my rear deck with the foam and just not in small pieces. Don't get the thick foam padding. They make a thinner piece that I used. I got it at Target.
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=313259&page=4
I covered my rear deck with the foam and just not in small pieces. Don't get the thick foam padding. They make a thinner piece that I used. I got it at Target.
06-16-2003, 11:10 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,012
Originally posted by nemo
THATS ME!!
THATS ME!!
well, i got a really really ghetto solution to the vibrating sunglasses overhead compartment:
take some kleenex and stuff it inside the part that clips on. Keep on sticking enough kleenex in there so that you still think it's easy enough to open, but doesn't vibrate when you're listing to 50 cent. That's all I can think of for the sunglasses holding part, now I dunno about the back part that needs fixing
06-17-2003, 05:11 AM
#29
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 40
yeah... i dont have the sunglass problem... the rear sub problem annoys the hell outta me... deeper bass doesn't rattle at all... so i'll turn it up more... then the next song that comes on will have harder bass, and will rattle like all hell.... i'm gonna go buy me some foam and put it int he deck... hopefully that'll work.
06-17-2003, 08:17 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
OK, I was planning on starting a thread this morning about this issue but since this one is already here I'll just add my $.02. This is going to be a long one...
I spent quite a few hours this past Saturday fixing the Bose rattle problem that seems to plague us all. I had already read the threads about it and was convinced that foam padding would fix it. WRONG! I went to Target and bought foam padding for about $8. So then I got back to my house and with the help of a friend we began digging our way down to the rear deck. I took everything out, in this order:
- back seat cushions
- fold back seat down and remove two side sections
- remove black plastic trim
- remove 2 side molding pieces
- unbolt seat belts (to allow rear deck to come completely out)
- remove rear deck
Now, with the rear deck completely out of the car and sitting on a workbench about 10 feet away I turned on the radio and the rattle was still 100% there. It wasn't even a little better. So I don't understand how people are saying that just putting foam on the deck fixes their problem. So we started trying to track down the source of the rattle, which seems to come from a number of places. The most obvious source was the metal deck that the Bose subwoofer attaches to. It's a small rectangle of metal that bolts to the main rear-deck creating a metal on metal surface. When we held that section down tight by hand the rattling got a little better. The next thing I noticed was that the child seat anchors and seat belt assemblies were also buzzing. At this point I knew that foam was not going to do the trick at all, and I'd already spent too much time and energy to just put the car back together and leave it the way it was. So I decided to go buy Dynamat. I got a door kit for $60 at the local Circuit City. It was enough to do everything and I still had 1 sheet left over. I started by removing EVERYTHING from the metal rear deck...child seat anchors, seat belt assemblies and the Bose subwoofer itself. Once I has everything off the deck I layed a layer of Dynamat across the entire thing. This takes some time because you need to cut holes for the subwoofer, seat belt assemblies and the plastic tabs which hold the rear deck on. Then I went to work on the Bose subwoofer. I removed it from the small metal rectangle that it attaches to and put Dynamat around the lip (where the Bose rests). So now I have Dynamat between the Bose and the small metal plate, and another layer between that plate and the metal deck itself. Once I was completely done Dynamatting I did cut some foam and attach it to the bottom of the deck just to tighten it up, but it made reattaching it so hard that some of the foam needed to be removed. I decided to leave the child seat anchors out since I don't need them. I also left the 3rd seat belt assembly out since I never use that either. Also, it was the closest to the subwoofer and was rattling much more than the other 2 seat belt assemblies so it had to go. Now on to the hardest part, putting it back together. The rear deck goes on with 3 slide clips in the back and 2 push down clips closer to the front. The black plastic trim goes over top with push-tabs. The side molding was the hardest part, especially since the rear deck was now sitting higher due to the foam. It holds on with 1 slide tab and 3 push tabs. We were finally able to get them on but I'll need to re-do them at some point because they don't look like they're on all the way. Then you just have to put the 2 side sections of the back seat on and put the cushion back in.
Once I had all this done I turned on the radio and the buzzing and rattling was gone!
And the bass seems ALOT louder and clearer now. The difference is like night and day.
In short, anyone who is going to take the time to take their car apart and fix this problem should invest in some Dynamat or a similar product. Foam under the rear deck alone will not fix the problem at all and you'll just end up feeling like you wasted several hours of your life for no reason. $60 well spent IMO.
Also, we considered doing a write-up with pictures but that idea got scrapped as the day dragged on. There is still a possibility that I might do it if I take everything apart again to fix the trim, but it's pretty easy once you get started and there are some pics out there already to give you an idea of what you need to do.
Thanx to silver99 for his help with this project.
I spent quite a few hours this past Saturday fixing the Bose rattle problem that seems to plague us all. I had already read the threads about it and was convinced that foam padding would fix it. WRONG! I went to Target and bought foam padding for about $8. So then I got back to my house and with the help of a friend we began digging our way down to the rear deck. I took everything out, in this order:
- back seat cushions
- fold back seat down and remove two side sections
- remove black plastic trim
- remove 2 side molding pieces
- unbolt seat belts (to allow rear deck to come completely out)
- remove rear deck
Now, with the rear deck completely out of the car and sitting on a workbench about 10 feet away I turned on the radio and the rattle was still 100% there. It wasn't even a little better. So I don't understand how people are saying that just putting foam on the deck fixes their problem. So we started trying to track down the source of the rattle, which seems to come from a number of places. The most obvious source was the metal deck that the Bose subwoofer attaches to. It's a small rectangle of metal that bolts to the main rear-deck creating a metal on metal surface. When we held that section down tight by hand the rattling got a little better. The next thing I noticed was that the child seat anchors and seat belt assemblies were also buzzing. At this point I knew that foam was not going to do the trick at all, and I'd already spent too much time and energy to just put the car back together and leave it the way it was. So I decided to go buy Dynamat. I got a door kit for $60 at the local Circuit City. It was enough to do everything and I still had 1 sheet left over. I started by removing EVERYTHING from the metal rear deck...child seat anchors, seat belt assemblies and the Bose subwoofer itself. Once I has everything off the deck I layed a layer of Dynamat across the entire thing. This takes some time because you need to cut holes for the subwoofer, seat belt assemblies and the plastic tabs which hold the rear deck on. Then I went to work on the Bose subwoofer. I removed it from the small metal rectangle that it attaches to and put Dynamat around the lip (where the Bose rests). So now I have Dynamat between the Bose and the small metal plate, and another layer between that plate and the metal deck itself. Once I was completely done Dynamatting I did cut some foam and attach it to the bottom of the deck just to tighten it up, but it made reattaching it so hard that some of the foam needed to be removed. I decided to leave the child seat anchors out since I don't need them. I also left the 3rd seat belt assembly out since I never use that either. Also, it was the closest to the subwoofer and was rattling much more than the other 2 seat belt assemblies so it had to go. Now on to the hardest part, putting it back together. The rear deck goes on with 3 slide clips in the back and 2 push down clips closer to the front. The black plastic trim goes over top with push-tabs. The side molding was the hardest part, especially since the rear deck was now sitting higher due to the foam. It holds on with 1 slide tab and 3 push tabs. We were finally able to get them on but I'll need to re-do them at some point because they don't look like they're on all the way. Then you just have to put the 2 side sections of the back seat on and put the cushion back in.
Once I had all this done I turned on the radio and the buzzing and rattling was gone!
And the bass seems ALOT louder and clearer now. The difference is like night and day.In short, anyone who is going to take the time to take their car apart and fix this problem should invest in some Dynamat or a similar product. Foam under the rear deck alone will not fix the problem at all and you'll just end up feeling like you wasted several hours of your life for no reason. $60 well spent IMO.
Also, we considered doing a write-up with pictures but that idea got scrapped as the day dragged on. There is still a possibility that I might do it if I take everything apart again to fix the trim, but it's pretty easy once you get started and there are some pics out there already to give you an idea of what you need to do.
Thanx to silver99 for his help with this project.
08-26-2003, 06:11 AM
#32
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 187
Re: I couldnt find your pics on the link you listed
Originally posted by preston175pb
Hey man I couldnt find the pics on the link you listed!
Hey man I couldnt find the pics on the link you listed!
Only thing I did different then the previous poster was tighten all the screws down, I used double sided tape between the metal plate and the rear deck and between the subwoofer and metal plate. Also, I put larger screws in place where the subwoofer is screwed down and the plate that the subwoofer is on. NO MORE RATTLE...Much cheaper than the dynomat route...But with dynomat you get the sound improvement.
I took my car to Nissan three times to get them to fix it under warranty. The don't know jack! Now to figure out the wind noise problem...since nissan cant'!
08-26-2003, 06:15 AM
#33
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Re: Re: I couldnt find your pics on the link you listed
Originally posted by kklier
I took my car to Nissan three times to get them to fix it under warranty. The don't know jack! Now to figure out the wind noise problem...since nissan cant'!
I took my car to Nissan three times to get them to fix it under warranty. The don't know jack! Now to figure out the wind noise problem...since nissan cant'!
04-26-2005, 08:29 PM
#35
Originally Posted by Anzioblack44
This rattles driving me mad, coming from sheet metal, or something in between the deck board and sheetmetal... Anyone try dynomat? velcro really isnt adressing my problem.
04-27-2005, 06:54 AM
#37
one thing I noticed that cause ALOT OF RATTLES is when you open your trunk there are two thin metal lines that are drilled into holes that move then you open and close the trunk, I dont think that these things serve any purpose but i taped them together for the time being and the rattles stopped completly, I also pulled out the harness clips and the bose lid and put pieces of sound deadner in place where it rattles,key is too have someone drive your car as u sit in the back seat and feel around the lid where it rattles, then pad it with fatmat or dynomat or whatever... I will post pics later of a more detailed look
04-27-2005, 10:36 AM
#38
You will need to pull the carpet off the entire trunk, and dynamat everythig to get rid of the rattle if you have aftermarket subs. I have 2 800 watt mtxs in my (old) camry, and it rattled like crazy. i stipped the entire carpet and dynamtted the trunk lid, and took off the lic plate and put a sheet of danymat on the back+bolted it down with 4 screws, not just the top 2. this stopped most of the rattle, its just a slight vibration now. i don't think you can get rif of noize completely because most of the aftermarket subwoofers are really LOUD.
04-27-2005, 12:21 PM
#40
Originally Posted by TheBigDu
Anybody realize how old this thread is?