Recently I have been having problems with my car dying after the clutch is depressed. The problem was hit or miss, and seemed to go away for a few weeks. Now it is back, and the car will hardly idle. It will fluctuate from 400-600 RPMS, and will almost stall. The car runs fine at other RPMS, but the idle is horrible and it still dies periodically when the clutch is depressed. Any ideas on what might be causing these symptoms?

 

Also, the car has not thrown any codes.

 

Mass airflow sensor???

 

If there is a discernable lack of power in the middle to upper RPMs then it is definitely the MAF. When mine blew and the engine was cold, idle was all out of wack.

 

Could be the TPS as well.

 

That's my vote

 

One more thing about the problem, it that it does not occur when the engine is cold. The car is able to hold the cold idle higher, just as it should, it is only once the engine is warmed that the car dies. I can not notice any lack of power, which is leading me to believe that it is not the MAF, but I am not sure. My dad is suggesting that it might be the EGR valve. Has anoyone else expierenced an EGR failure?

 

Is that the same as a PCV valve?

Maybe it's the Idle Control Valve.

 

You'd throw a code for the EGR system if it were malfunctioning. If it were leaking exhaust gas into the intake constantly, you'd have cold idle issues as well. If it's not opening, you should throw a code and you'd have engine ping. The EGR system is not active when your engine is idling.

 

It could be your TPS.

Also, a dirty throttlebody will cause a rough idle, but I've never heard of one being so dirty to the point that it will die........

 

Is there a good way to test whether the TPS was faulty or not?

 

Check the IAC (idle air control). This seems to be tempermental in cold weather. It may improve or just get worse and need to be relaced. My max has amost 75k on it this year and I've experienced a similiar issue. However, it happened after the car sat for about 1 month (being repaired from an accident). The weather changed dramatically while in the shop. After body repairs, it died 5 times or so on different occasions when I was stopping. 2wks after its not a problem. Check the IAC.

 

Condor: That sounds similar to what I have experienced. The problem first appeared after a dramatic cooling in out temps. I am in college, so I do not drive on a daily basis. The week that it turned cold, I did not drive the car at all. The first drive in the colder weather is when the problem manifested.

 

Mine was dying occasionaly. Cleaning the TB fixed it. It's worth a try. It's a lot cheaper than a new MAF.

 

Thanks for the good info guys. How would I go about checking to confirm whether the IAC was faulty or not?

 

I'm no Technition, but If I were to check my IAC here's what I would do. The IAC is right there at the Throttle plate. It controls the position of the throttle plate at idle. The IAC is a small mechanical valve that can be tempermental depending on the temperature. I spoke with Dave B. (888-254-6060) and he said to play with the IAC valve manually (apparently it can be moved or manipulated by hand). This "tweaking" may cause it loosen up and maybe give it some extended life. These Valves are around $200 new. This might be a good thing to check before exchanging it completely for a new one.

 

possibly coils