zourtney

Hey guys, I took a 400 mile trip this past week. After stopping at a store, my car refused to start without giving it a little gas. It finally held an idle, then died again at a stop sign. It hasn't died one me since, but idles ridiculously high. In neutral or park, it will sometimes rev repeatedly between 1500-1800 rpms... it's weird.

As a note, my car's been throwing P0138 / 139 (rear bank oxy sensor slow repsonse and high voltage) for the past 2 months, or so. I don't know if the o2 sensor is actually dead now, and this the computer is trying to compensate for it, or what. The SES light is on, but I'm not sure AutoZone is open today, I'll check.

In the mean time, do you guys have any ideas?

Thanks,
zourtney

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

Try SEAFOAM.........

zourtney

... Could someone be a bit more helpful than that?

cmuehlenb

Unplug the battery wait 5 min. Reconnect. Maybe it will reset something. That's what I would try, can't hurt.

zourtney

ok, update:

I had to drive back to school (about 230 miles). I still had the erratic, jumping idle when in neutral or park. I stopped at a rest area and a foul stench was coming from the airbox area. It drove fine for a while, but now is EXTREMELY sluggish and stumbles around 2500rpms, and wont rev higher than that.

This sounds like the 'blown MAF limp home' thing I read elsewhere on the .org. What do you think?

Matt_01SE_20th

iTrader: (1)

when my MAF went out it would stall sometimes comin to a stop. i didnt have the high idle though. are you lacking power in the high RPM's?

hakimis

Actually it almost sounds like a couple things. Ut could be the maf sensor but also the coils. I had the same "jumping" and it was the coils that had blown, If it's the coils be prepared; I'm at Nissan now fighting them to replace them for the 3rd time.

MAXledKing55

M A F I had the same exact symptoms rough, jumping idling stalling rough acceleration trust me it only gets more sluggish and stalls more I did this test to finally make me give in and take it to the dealer when its running tap the harness on your MAF and if the engine jumps at all its def gone bad. I just got mine replaced at the dealership under waranty not a single penny out my pocket back within the week. If you dont have the ext. warranty its online for only 120 shipped just do a "parts lookup". I My moneys def on your MAF it shouldve been a recall

zourtney

thanks for the replies. The computer indeed threw a MAF malfunction code. It's running kinda ok today, but I'm not going to ignore it. Guess it's time to order MAF sensor #2! Anyone have a link to a reputable place I can buy online?

super6

iTrader: (5)

DAVEB under $100 shipped!

zourtney

Thanks super6, I got Dave's contact info and I'll give him a call tomorrow, hurray!

Do you know if the ECU needs reset after getting a new MAF? I wouldnt think so, but ya' never know with these dang computers!! (and to think, I'm a computer software major.... sigh...)

super6

iTrader: (5)

i heard you should unplug the battery while changing it. if you leave it unplugged for like 10 min i believe that resets the ECU.

hakimis

That would be the negative terminal, usually a minute will do it.

zourtney

[thread back from the dead!]

I installed my new MAF today (kind of a pain in the butt, but it's in). I still have the same high / 'bouncing' idle I had before.

Does the ECU need to re-learn the fuel/air mappings? If so, how do I do this? If not, what could my problem be? I think someone mentioned a cam position sensor...

Here's a recap:
1) Rear bank o2 sensor(s) periodically trip SES light, currently ON.
2) After stopping on a long trip, car wouldnt hold idle without giving it gas. Died at stopsigns.
3) High idle, occasionly cycles between 1600-1800rpms.
4) On another long trip, MAF (supposedly) blew, not allowing me to break 2500rpms, very sluggish. Car nearly died at stopsigns.
5) High idle returned after sitting a few days (I was afraid to drive it)
6) Checked SES codes -- got P0138/9 (rear o2), and P0100 (maf malfunction)
7) Replaced MAF today. High, cyclical idle continues. (car is drivable, but not 'normal')

Sorry for the long post. Please give me any thoughts you have on my car troubles.

super6

iTrader: (5)

this is what i can tell you. my car was also stalling when i put it in neutral while crusing. i replaced MAF and didnt do anything but unconnecting battery. seems ok now. good luck man.

zourtney

ok, I don't know what that sentence means...

I think someone above mentioned that a bad coil could cause a strange idle, like I'm having. What are the other symptoms of a bad coil?

I guess i need to go back down to the auto parts store and plead to borrow their tester again, to make sure i havent thrown any codes other than the P0138/9's.

zourtney

sorry to be so persistant, but i still have a problem after replacing the MAF sensor.

Pulled the code today --
** P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve (Malfunction)**

I searched the org (well, google, anyway) and found no real threads relating to this error code. Has anyone had this code before? Does anyone know what the Idle Air Control valve IS?

I'll start a new thread, if it'd help.

cuk133

Zourtney, the car I got also had the same problems that you described. It will stall at stop signs, sluggish response, rough idle and rev by itself in neutral or park. Pulled the code P0505 (Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve) just now at Autozone. Just wondering if anyone here can help solve the issue.... I had thought it was the MAF as well, have not replaced it, but I am not sure if a faulty MAF will give a code like P0505? ......help........

spark plugs.

iTrader: (3)

hahaha...someone recommended seafoam

i recommend checking all your vacuum lines first...if not, then you IACV might need replacing...

here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...ode=23781-A33B

and good luck.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Check the 5th gen parts forum first...I think a couple people were selling the IACV on there. One may still be available....and for significantly less cost.

Fox_90

Could be IAC but if you have not had the coils checked yet then go there first. I just got mine (maxima), had same problems, replaced MAF, things got better still stalling, replaced plugs, still stalling, replaced coils with aftermarket, no more stalling!!! It's a bit costly but it gives you so much more drivablility. These are all common problems on these 5'th gen maxima's,all above mentioned will need attention at some point but at least we know, this is by far the best Maxima website available, props to the admin!!

cuk133

Thanks guys... I will look up the available options. I think the main suspects will be IACV, MAF and Ignition coils in that order... its just so odd, cos the symptoms are almost identical to a MAF failure yet the error code is for the IACV....

Superduck

Sorry to jump in, but what are you all using to determine the failure codes?? I have a 00 Max that has what I believe to be a bad ignition coil...what can be used to determine which one is misfiring? Again, sorry to jump in, but appreciate the help.

cuk133

Hi your local autozone will pull the codes for free. There is a list of error codes and what they mean posted in the FAQ. Should be easy to find. If not, I can mail you the list.

cmuehlenb

You can get an OBD II scanner on ebay for like $30. It will throw 2 codes, one for misfire and one that tells you which one it is.

Otherwise, pull each spark plug wire and replace while its running rough. When there is no change, then you found the bad coil.

Check ebay for coils. I ran across a 6 coil package for $200 something.

Superduck

Thanks, I appreciate your help!! I found the list on here, but just needed a way to find which coil. I called Autozone and the guy said he didn't have anything to determine the code....maybe he's just a moron and doesn't have a clue...or they don't check the codes at this one.

Again, thanks for the help...I may purchase one of those OBD's just so I have one for future use.

Thanks again!!

Miata32

Hi,

I had similar idle problem with my 2000 maxima and the problem of rough idle and stalling stems from the MAF and a bad Catalytic converter. The Cat. was completely cloged. There are 3 pieces to the Cat and mine was the part closest to the engine with a 90 deg. bend. Hope this helps.

Here are the list of items I replaced so far on my car:
Coils = $600
MAF = $400
2 front wheel bearings = $800
BrakesPads/Rotors (3 sets due to warping) = $1200

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Autozone should be able to pull the code for you from an OBII scanner. Usually when I get my codes checked, I just give them my driver's license or credit card and they give me the unit. I scan them myself, note which codes there are, and look for it on here. If it is a code that keeps repeating I will clear it.

At any rate, go to the Autozone, scan your Max, and post what your code(s) are. People will provide input.

If you aren't thowing any check engine light you can verify if the coil packs are working through the multimeter test that Progress did (I think it was Progress?).

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Curious...what did you do with the clogged catalytic converter? Did you just unclog it and replace it? Also, was is the front pre-cat (closest to the front bumper)?

Superduck

I called Autozone....and at least the guy I talked to said they didn't have anything...but why would they....that would have been too easy. I'm in the St. louis Metro area, so i'm gonna keep calling around and see if another Autozone does.

Superduck

Ok, so I found another Autozone...just a little further away, that does have the OBD II, and for $179 it's mine to borrow....then get that $$ back when I return it.

Heading out now to go use that bad boy and find out which coil is bad.

Thanks again for the help, this forum may be the best thing I've found regarding servicing my own Max!!! Saving me tons-o-money too!

Superduck

Ok, so the code was P1320 followed by P0306. From what I've read this means ignition problem with the #6 cylinder....pointing to the 6th coil as the problem. Just want confirmation before I call for the part. I assume the 6th cylinder is towards the back of the motor??

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Nope in the front of the motor on the right side. Check this thread out..it details the whole coil pack issue.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451830

Miata32

Curious...what did you do with the clogged catalytic converter? Did you just unclog it and replace it? Also, was is the front pre-cat (closest to the front bumper)?

RESPONSE:
The clogged cat had to be replaced. I did not do the job, the expensive dealer replaced it since they have to reprogram the computer to accept the new cat and sensors. Yes, it was the one pre cat closest to the bumper since you have to view it directly from underneath the car when it's lifted. Hope this helps.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Yes it does help....I'm going to be replacing mine myself. It will be interesting to see what the original one looks like when I pull it.

orlnd0

sounds like the elusive maf problem on these cars.

kassorla

I have a 90 Maxima with similar problems as described above.The computer sends no codes because it possibly is the wrong one installed by my former mechanic. How do I find the exact computer for my car? Thank you!

kramarz99

It Is Iacv Need To Be Changed Out. My Just Shorted Out And Burned Out Ecu. Do It As Quick As You Can. Plus You Might Advance Timing.

chringram

you can pull the codes yourself - there's a guide on this site - that's how I found out. I'll be replacing my idle air control valve this weekend. I'm hoping to take photos of the removal and installation. I have to clean out the throttle body as well while I'm in there.