Probably within the next few weeks.

 

another question on the ecu. My car seems to slack at ~3k rpm in 3rd gear while either manual shifting or leaving it in D. While running WOT...1st and 2nd is fine but in 3rd at around ~3k rpm, the car slacks and rpm drops to 2800rpm and picks back up like after like a second or so then pulls like normal again. It happens all the time and dont know what caused it...ecu?

 

SR20DEN, here are my runfiles.

http://www.frontliner.us/CSA/CSA/bry...ff/DYNORUN.012

Only run #12 is listed here but replace 12 with 01-11 and you will get the rest.

Shogun you might want to check out hte hesitation TSB or whatever its called.

 

This is normal, to remedy that, just shift it into 4, what you're noticing is the lock up torque converter.

If your WOT, just shift it into 4th and it will jump back up.

 

The TS ECU Reflash for an auto is worthless. Having the raised rev limiter on a car with a stock manifold is worthless. The reason both blu and I ran the same times with the TS ECU and shifting at 7000+ is that the car is making so little power above 6500 rpms. Someone should make this a sticky so people will stop wanting to waste their money.

 

The TS ECU for the Auto will not show any gains unless the a/f curve is leaned out from running rich. I picked up a little power where my cars a/f was leaned out but where the a/f was untouched I gained nothing at all. Plus TS told myself and juice they dont even have a true Auto program they just used the 6 speed program bc the Auto was too inconsistant on the dyno. For those picking up power with the ECU you could do the same thing with a SAFC to lean out the a/f and save $200+. The L spec is worth it if you have a modded IM like SR20DEN's but if you dont the ECU is totally pointless. My car ran the same exact times pre ECU as it did after and my dyno results showed nearly the same before and after also. IMO without a modded IM its a waste of $$$.

 

I have the ECU as well and it probably didn't do much for me. I can't tell though.

 

The extended redline + and some mild AFC tuning (to lean out TS program, they set the AFR to 12.8) and I picked up some decent power (6hp, 4tq) over the 9hp and 11ft-lb gain their flash gave me. Of course, I told them that I was bone stock and I think that has a lot to do with the gains I saw.

 

This is the statement that has me thinking. . . .

 

so you gained 15whp and 15wtq from just the ECU alone? What did you dyno again with all your mods? If I gained that from the ECU I would have been 243whp bc I was 228whp before the ECu and 228whp after....

 

Why did your run end @ 5500?

 

you got PM

 

Just a thought on the original post; 1995s with a measly 190hp were faster than NA 300z in the mid-1990s so there definately is something wrong with your car if he's stock. A stock 5.5 Gen auto is a high, sometimes mid 14-second car.

 

well...also a thought here too. A while back when i install the intake, I accidently dropped the MAF on the floor. After the install, the SES light was on for like 2 days and the car ran like crap, it would lag and not run over 3000rpm (maybe MAF failure). So i took it to the dealer to check for the lack of power TSB...those **** voided my warantee because of the intake and said the MAF is bad and needs to be replace. I later went home and research on the org and did the "ECU reset procedure"...after like 2-3 times, the SES light turned off and my car revived and felt normal again. It's been a year now and I'm still running on the same MAF. I could rev over 6k but up top I felt no power. When I run other cars, i would pull them from 0-60 (including a g35c) but 60+ is a different story. I just ordered a 2k1 MAF from daveB and see what happens. Anyone got the writeup on how to insert the stock temperature sensor onto the 2k1 MAF? Any thoughts?

 

You should have mentioned the whole dropping the MAF deal earlier. Might want to check your power valve if you feel no power above 6k, but getting a dyno i probably the best thing to do, though not the cheapest.