Smacked a wall now car wont move
#1
Smacked a wall now car wont move
Last night, an attempt to test my new suspesion setup i took a freeway pass at 55, and at the end of the turn it started to understeer, and braking or accelerating wouldnt have helps and i believe 3 tires were slipping, and already pretty close to the wall, only a single lane. So anyhow, i hit the rim, and bumper, so now my front left rim is bent, and when i tried putting it in drive the car didnt go anywhere, just revved up. Any idea what it might be?
#2
You might have bent your CV drive shaft joint. That's probably why your car is not moving. Probably worse, if the tranny took some shock from the impact.
#4
"I thought I was in the fast and furious, oh $hit I bought a family sedan with a buick suspension". Take it to the dealer.
#5
#6
Originally Posted by thephatOne
Last night, an attempt to test my new suspesion setup i took a freeway pass at 55, and at the end of the turn it started to understeer, and braking or accelerating wouldnt have helps and i believe 3 tires were slipping, and already pretty close to the wall, only a single lane. So anyhow, i hit the rim, and bumper, so now my front left rim is bent, and when i tried putting it in drive the car didnt go anywhere, just revved up. Any idea what it might be?
-you went into the exit accellerating to 55
-you realized you were going too fast
-you hit the brakes, shifting the car's center of mass farther forward, and lifting weight off the rear wheels
-you tried to correct with reverse steer
-you over-corrected, which is why you got the front wheel into the wall...
this is called "trail braking" where you are accellerating and then abruptly brake while in a turn......and the effect is usually exactly what happened to you. It is magnified when you add the most-common maxima-mod, the rear sway bar, without adding a similar stiffening device up front to compensate (the lower tie bar), or by having your spring/strut settings set incorrectly.
how, by the way, could 3 tires be slipping? So one tire was gripping?
sucks that this happened, but the place to "test" stuff is in a big-*** parking lot where if you spin out, you won't hit anything
best of luck with getting it all fixed...like I said before, it's probably a broken drive/cv axle (plus probably other bent stuff in the suspension)
#7
Yes is does seem weird that one tire is gripping, it seems as though all 3 tires would somehow have to be airborn.
#10
it wasnt raining yesterday, and hey mdloops if you cant help please dont any dumbas.s remarks, but i didnt hit the brakes, because I entered the turn at 55 accelerating so probably around 60-65 on impact, and I thought it wouldve been worse with the brakes.
#13
when you go 118 west onto the 405 north. Im claiming insurance because there was a metal piece also fortunately which i ran over.
#14
Originally Posted by mdloops
"I thought I was in the fast and furious, oh $hit I bought a family sedan with a buick suspension". Take it to the dealer.
I would inspect the power steering rack for damage, most of the impact was taken out on the wheel and lower controll arm. Your axle might have just POPED out of the plunging joint- inner one. I seen this happen quite alot. I would look under the car and see what is up. I have spun out doing 95MPH on a onramp at one time but recovered it after doing a full 360 deg, due to crappy Potenza Poleposition SO3s- Bridgestone tires are all POS, no matter if it costs 50 bux a tire or 350 a tire like mine where.
#18
damn sorry to hear about the whip... take care of ya damn maxima! dont be a maxima abuser!
like irish said earlier... it seems like u have a broken drive axle, but get it checked out
like irish said earlier... it seems like u have a broken drive axle, but get it checked out
#19
yeah it was dumb thing to do, just wanted to know how well my car handled, anyhow yeah i didnt hit the front of my car so I'm thinking thats why the no airbags went off, most of impact was on the front wheel and bumper. I was wondering, does insurance replace my rim? or give me a stock one because that would be very awkward. A flood 99 this onramp is a pretty sharp one, i would have to say since my friends M3 can come out of it at 70 with the rear end doing its thing, my I30 had no chance haha. Ive learned from my mistake!
#20
I'm sure thephatone already feels bad enough that his car is screwed, and it's not like everyone here hasn't screwed up in a car and done something stupid, so I don't think there is any reason to dog on him for crunching his ride. Sorry phatone, I don't have any wisdom for your broken car, I just get sick of people flaming on every thread about stuff that is not even the topic of discussion.
#21
man i had the same situation, i didnt hit the wall, i just hit a curb,except mine was in the rain (craptenzas), and i wasnt going that fast maybe 40. i had to replace my struts, lower control arm, and a knuckle?, i dont know what that is but thats what they replaced. my body was in tact, but my rims were badly scratched. its gonna cost ya alot of money. like 2Gs. so yea just call your ins. and dont feel bad dude, every one learns from their mistakes. i know i did. what you need to remember is that our cars are FWD, i was so used to driving a RWD, wasnt planning to understeer...
#22
yeah hopefully everything works out, and thanks to those who are giving me suggestions...really helps sometimes
#23
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
My family sedan can outhandles plenty of RT10 Vipers at my local autoX track, care to elaborate wtf U just said ?
I would inspect the power steering rack for damage, most of the impact was taken out on the wheel and lower controll arm. Your axle might have just POPED out of the plunging joint- inner one. I seen this happen quite alot. I would look under the car and see what is up. I have spun out doing 95MPH on a onramp at one time but recovered it after doing a full 360 deg, due to crappy Potenza Poleposition SO3s- Bridgestone tires are all POS, no matter if it costs 50 bux a tire or 350 a tire like mine where.
I would inspect the power steering rack for damage, most of the impact was taken out on the wheel and lower controll arm. Your axle might have just POPED out of the plunging joint- inner one. I seen this happen quite alot. I would look under the car and see what is up. I have spun out doing 95MPH on a onramp at one time but recovered it after doing a full 360 deg, due to crappy Potenza Poleposition SO3s- Bridgestone tires are all POS, no matter if it costs 50 bux a tire or 350 a tire like mine where.
That's only true at some races like autox/cross. Any real tracks, like at Sears Point, the Viper would own your butt in all the hairpins and hard sweeping left and right hand turns. Basically, half the course you would be losing ground on just the turns, not to mention the flats and straights where it pulls away from you like a scalded dog. The Viper could be driven better than even the most heavily modded 4th-5th Gen Maxima even at autox if the driver knew how to drive (IMHO). The difference is that the Viper can still be controlled at and even beyond the limit, but a Maxima will lose it over the limit (which is a lower limit to begin with, even modded).
#24
alright a front drive drifter - nice going phatone, that's exactly what your repair bill is gonna look like - the phatone - j/k good luck with all this you gotta go thru - hey next time maybe you can test out your new suspension doing 55mph over some speed bumps - let us know how it turns out stuntman! peace
#25
i mean yea this really sux for ya phatone but what did you think was going to happen? you have to admit you were taking a really big chance and you pushed too much. All you can do now is learn from your mistake and unfortuantly have to go through the whole process of getting it fixed.
Good luck though and let us know what happens after all is said and done.
Good luck though and let us know what happens after all is said and done.
#26
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
That's only true at some races like autox/cross. Any real tracks, like at Sears Point, the Viper would own your butt in all the hairpins and hard sweeping left and right hand turns. Basically, half the course you would be losing ground on just the turns, not to mention the flats and straights where it pulls away from you like a scalded dog. The Viper could be driven better than even the most heavily modded 4th-5th Gen Maxima even at autox if the driver knew how to drive (IMHO). The difference is that the Viper can still be controlled at and even beyond the limit, but a Maxima will lose it over the limit (which is a lower limit to begin with, even modded).
#27
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
That's only true at some races like autox/cross. Any real tracks, like at Sears Point, the Viper would own your butt in all the hairpins and hard sweeping left and right hand turns. Basically, half the course you would be losing ground on just the turns, not to mention the flats and straights where it pulls away from you like a scalded dog. The Viper could be driven better than even the most heavily modded 4th-5th Gen Maxima even at autox if the driver knew how to drive (IMHO). The difference is that the Viper can still be controlled at and even beyond the limit, but a Maxima will lose it over the limit (which is a lower limit to begin with, even modded).
1234567890
#28
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
My family sedan can outhandles plenty of RT10 Vipers at my local autoX track, care to elaborate wtf U just said ?
I will not even comment on your reply. I am too busy laughing.
#29
I feel for ya. I almost hit a wall at 80 on an off ramp a while back. Hit the brakes, slipped more, let off them and it grabbed. Luckily, I was on my Pilots, not craptenza's! We all do stupid shiznit pushing these things because, well, because we're a bunch of idiots with fast cars! Why else would we do such things?
#30
mdloops instead of INTERNET racing why don't ya come out to a track and race your car ?
I seen 4 RT10s come to my local autoX track and they can't run good times, Maxima isn't the best car in the world to race with due to its size but I keep up with Miatas and SRT4s with good drivers. I do not mess around when its time for racing that involves a little bit more SKILL than just put it in DRIVE and mash the gas pedal to run a time in a straight line. Now new Vipers and even the GTS ones are the sh!zznit, but the old RT10s are not all that. This season I will make a video of me waxn their azz.
I seen 4 RT10s come to my local autoX track and they can't run good times, Maxima isn't the best car in the world to race with due to its size but I keep up with Miatas and SRT4s with good drivers. I do not mess around when its time for racing that involves a little bit more SKILL than just put it in DRIVE and mash the gas pedal to run a time in a straight line. Now new Vipers and even the GTS ones are the sh!zznit, but the old RT10s are not all that. This season I will make a video of me waxn their azz.
#31
Originally Posted by sooner02r1
I'm sure thephatone already feels bad enough that his car is screwed, and it's not like everyone here hasn't screwed up in a car and done something stupid, so I don't think there is any reason to dog on him for crunching his ride. Sorry phatone, I don't have any wisdom for your broken car, I just get sick of people flaming on every thread about stuff that is not even the topic of discussion.
#32
Originally Posted by AcerX
Hey mdloops, I was born in Columbus, GA
#33
do you think the repairs are going to be over a thousand dollars? lets say that my strut, spring, control arm, and any other suspension part needs to be replaced, front bumper replaced, two rims replaced, and fender painted.
#34
Originally Posted by thephatOne
do you think the repairs are going to be over a thousand dollars? lets say that my strut, spring, control arm, and any other suspension part needs to be replaced, front bumper replaced, two rims replaced, and fender painted.
the rims alone in the dealer are around 400 each, do the math...
#36
ill take pictures once it goes into the body shop, i asked because i called my insurance agent and he said if its near 1000 dont claim insurance but if its higher then go for it even though now youll have an accident on your record. anyone know any good body shops in the san fernando valley?
#38
Originally Posted by JClaw
Do you have both stage frame connectors, RSB, FSB, ground controls and the best size rims and the best possible tires on your car? If not how can you claim that.
Because the laws of physics can be bent, but not broken when it comes to FWD family cars. If you purpose built a FWD race car frame (not meant for production/streets), then yeah...maybe it "could" outhandle a comparably equipped RWD race car or the Viper R/T-10. Anyone who thinks otherwise is selling something...or maybe buying.
#39
If it's as little as $1000, unless something minimal happened (like a loose screw and you tighten it and you're off to the races - excuse the language), then it will only be by doing it yourself. You take it somewhere and with labour it's going to cost you big time once you incorporate any body work into it.
I love my maxima, but can we please stop even pretending that it can take an RT10 in any case except maybe carrying groceries. Really now. The viper is a race car built from the ground up. It's got tons of power, better physics, suspension, etc. So maybe you can take a 15 mph corner faster when it's snowing and the tide is up, but in 99% of cases you're only winning if the viper is out of gas. All I ask for is a scant amount of reality here.
I love my maxima, but can we please stop even pretending that it can take an RT10 in any case except maybe carrying groceries. Really now. The viper is a race car built from the ground up. It's got tons of power, better physics, suspension, etc. So maybe you can take a 15 mph corner faster when it's snowing and the tide is up, but in 99% of cases you're only winning if the viper is out of gas. All I ask for is a scant amount of reality here.