Teser

iTrader: (2)

I changed my rear rotors and brake pads. Took the car to mechanics to change rubber seals on caliper and piston. They changed them, however they tell me that one of the pistonts does not compress back into caliper now, and therefore the brake on that wheel always touches and slows down the rotor. They tell me I have to buy new calipers and get them installed instead of old ones. My question is - could they screw something up when replacing the rubber seals in and around the piston, or it is possible for some other reason for piston not to compress back into caliper? The car was fine with original rotors and aftermarket pads at 70k miles.
What could be the problem????

BrandonSE

iTrader: (1)

yeah i just had the same exact problem, except they didnt replace the rubber, both rear calipers shot, the right rear was always compressed out and the left didnt go out. Both shot, Got them from vsmalov for cheap talk to him he might have more My mechanic wanted 190 for 1 side, i got both for less than that

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

try doing this....
get some lubricant and clean the inside of the calipers.. rent the compresor tool and go in and out... wit the caliper... keep adding the lubricant to flush all the crap out.... this might help.... it worked for me....

Nissan SE-R

You can also buy caliper rebuild kits from Nissan. They have all of the necessary parts to rebuild the caliper **if it is rebuildable** . It is possible that the piston bore is too far gone or pitted to rebuild. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and buy rebuilt calipers fo not too much money.

Teser

iTrader: (2)

I think that's what I've gotten from the dealer - the rebuild kit. I asked only for the piston dust seal, but they don't sell them separately, so I got the whole kit (bunch of rubber seals and some metal rings/washers for $54).
I asked mechanics to change seals on the pistons and gave them the nissan kit. Because, lots of those parts from the kit are supposed to go inside the piston, I would imagine that they cleaned it up while changing the parts.

Looking at the cylinder assembly diagram from the manual, I can't find anything that would cause this problem beyound the piston itself. They didn't give me a reasonable explanation - just told me that it happens, and can go "bad" anytime.
That's why i'm looking for an expert opinion.

I just spent $54 on the seal kit, and another $70 on brake fluid change and getting rid of the air in the brake system. It would really suck if I have to get new calipers installed

BTW, I googled on the caliper topic, and here is a very nice pictorial of rebuilding one http://bmwe32.student.utwente.nl/sea...akeCaliper.htm

Teser

iTrader: (2)

Good deal.
I already got a set for $200 through my friend's business account (otherwise list price $175 each), but have to return two old ones.
On new units, pistons look like they have been used, so probably those cylinders are rebuilt.
Installed them this morning, and did the brake bleed. Brakes seem to work fine now.

BTW, I wanted to find out whats wrong with the old ones. So I took them apart. One of them looked fine, however the other that mechanics told me is bad was actually f***ed up. Meaning - the rubber seal around the piston was half cut so it looks ok if you don't look closer. I found the rest of rubber seal inside the piston. So it looks like the piston could not go back all the way into the cylinder because of that rubber piece in its way. Looks like mechanics I took my car to have screwed me

PAREDLINE

This is common with 4th and 5th gen rear calipers. I just replaced both rear calipers about 3 months ago with a pair from Autozone. They came loaded (with brackets and pads) for $129.99.

Kevin

great price, didnt think it was so common with maximas, any good way to determine if this is happening ?

Y2k2maxse

iTrader: (1)

go to national auto parts get rebuilt calipers for $90 a piece....thats what i did comes with pads and rotors from them are $16 a piece...i had same prob as you

Kevin

where is this place in NJ?

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I bought a rear used caliper set at the scrap yard, I sand blasted and rebuilt both and it cost me less than 100$, I'm going to either paint the caliper or have it chromed. I was able to re-use all the parts, all the seals where dirty but once clean they where like brand new. I also polished the brakets and bolts and it turned out really nice, I can take some pics but dont know how to post it.

AA

PAREDLINE

Yes there is a way to check. Raise both rear wheels off the ground and release the parking brake. Step on the brake pedal. Or have someone else do it. While the pedal is being stepped on, try to spin both back wheels. Of course none of them should spin.

Now release the brake pedal. Try to spin the wheels again. They should spin freely. If one doesn't spin freely or they both dont spin freely, remove the wheel and see if the brake pads are making the wheel bind.

If the pads are making the wheel bind or stick, it is either because the caliper piston is not returning back after the pedal is pressed, OR the parking brake cable is binding.

To rule out the parking brake cable, simply remove it from the caliper. Unbolt the parking brake cable bracket and release the cable from the caliper.

If the wheel now moves freely, its the parking brake mechanism. If the wheel still sticks, you need a new caliper.

Love_00_Max

I would suggest raise the car and rotate the tires and they should rotate freely and once you press the brake pedal it comes to a stop. Repeat this couple of times to see if the caliper is stuck, if it does not rotate freely, a replacement may be necessary.

I just did this yesterday since I felt my rotors were getting hotter than they should, then ruled out a caliper problem but did realise the rubber hosing was all messed up. Cleaned it with brake clear and shot some lubricant at it for now and put it back in -- Iam looking at changing then in the near future, all of the back rotors, pads and calipers.

nikai

I did the rotate thing today, because there is a harsh noise with my rear brakes when I brake at a high speed.

What I found is that the tire is overall free when the brake is released, BUT at a certain angle, the rotor is apparently touching the pad slightly, so the rotation is not as free as the other angles.

Also, my pads are still in good shape. So my noise is because of this slight touch, or anything else? Thanks!

PAREDLINE

There's a simple fix for this. Get your rotors cut or get new rotors and replace them.

wally9mm

What is Brake Clear and what kind of lubricant did your use. Something like Permatex Ultra Brake Caliper Lube or can I use High Temperature Silicon Spray?

I think one of my pistons was stuck. I flushed the exposed piston with Brake fluid but I wanted tp go back in and use some type of lubricant.

Thanks.

Kevin

Its probably a bad / warped rotor, get it resurfaced or replaced. I'd probably do the latter

nikai

Thanks! BTW, do you think the noise is also because of bad rotor?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

for rotors.


Just wanted to add that it can also be caused by a rubber brake hose that has collapsed internally. To check simply crack the bleeder screw loose and if the wheel doesn't stick anymore it's caused by the hose.

BEJAY1

iTrader: (19)

Just an update as the link to the rebuild has changed.
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/ca...akeCaliper.htm

super6

iTrader: (5)

is possible they screwd up the caliper but also possible it went bad. as others said its common on the rears on these cars that the calipers sieze. happened on mine. i hear its recomended to change both sides together. rebuilt ones go for about 85 each. might as well do it to have peice of mind.