ok...i think i know the answer already, but just wanted a second opinion.

the problems:
1.) doesn't accelerate when first pulling away: just after starting car, when accelerating onto the highway, pressing the gas doesn't have an effect. like not getting fuel. almost feels like getting ready to stall out. i have to let of the gas and coast for a few seconds and then reapply gas. or you can stomp the gas to the floor and it will jerk the heck out of you when it finally kicks in.

2.) hesitation: when accelerating 1/2 - 3/4 throttle (not quite WOT, but not granny driving) and always around 3000 - 3500 RPM and sometimes at other RPMs, the car is sluggish. hesitates for a second and then kicks back in. like a couple of shudders while accelerating - classic "hesitation" as i've heard it described.

3.) loss of low-end power/torque: pulls like a stock civic. used to have way more off the line grunt. some if not all of this could be due to my intake. just seems worse lately.

3.) low gas mileage: i used to get 300-330 miles per gallon (premium fuel). my last tank was 250 miles per gallon.

 

idling doesn't seem all that bad - nothing noticeably unusual.

starts have been somewhat harder lately - although that could be due to cold weather.

i've tried carb/injector cleaners in the last several fuel fills - didn't help.

the specs on my ride:
2k, 55k miles, injen intake with generic cone filter, original plugs, original fuel filter, hyper grounding kit, syn-blend oil, recent tranny drain/fill and oil change, original MAF, no codes being thrown.


i'm thinking of trying MAF change with an throttle body clean, seaform, reset ecu and air filter clean first. then i'll move onto plugs if that doesn't have an effect.

don't really care to do fuel filter change - sounds like a pain to do.

suggestions, comments, personal experiences?

vote for what you would do first - taking into consideration cost and install difficulty.

 

I say MAF because hesitation at 3000 rpm seems to be what everyone has been experiencing, i have yet to change mine though and i'm at 78k miles.

 

Maf //123456789

 

i forgot to add COILS to the poll. post or select OTHER if you like that one.

 

If they were Coils you should have misfire and SES on.....

 

I would try the VAIS also.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/763858/5

 

Sorry, I meant VIAS.

 

try putting the stock air box in first and doing a throttle body cleaning. I had the same problem and now remove the cone filter in the winter as it allows too much cold air and confuses the sensors. If your filter is a K & N type, the spray eventually coats the MAF coil and again effects the readings and causes you nothing but grief

 

You wont necessarily get a code at first if it is your coils. It can be related to your coils. Test them with a multi-meter and check for infinite ohms.

 

sounds interesting. what is that JB Weld stuff mentioned in the link and where do you get it?

anyone else done this?

 

well, only 15 votes on the poll...but as i suspected, most think that the MAF seems the likely problem.

going to head to the stealership this weekend and pick one up...who needed that $100 anyways?!

i'll let you guys know how the replacement goes.

 

just ordered a MAF from Dave Burnette for $90.11 shipped UPS.

he's at 1888-254-6060 for anyone interested. super nice and hassle free.

can't wait to get it installed!

 

There isn't anyway to test the sensor before replacing it?

 

no...don't think so. you could unplug it completly...but that would surely throw a SES code and mess with you.

 

by the way, actually got the new MAF today and installed it.

after a brief spin after install, the butt dyno says:
hesitation gone
pulls harder
seems to be smoother overall
seems like i have back some of the low-end grunt my intake killed

overall...i think it was well worth the $90 and has seemed to resolve my issues. i'm know for sure this week when i get a chance to drive it more.

 

every 5th generation owner should have an extra maf, like irish does

 

What's the current part number?